The term "you silly goose" has been around for a long time. Recently one of my historical writer buds was asked to verify the use of this expression to a copy editor. The copy editor thought it was too modern of an expression. To the copy editor's credit, it would have been my first thought too because it is an expression we still use. However, it turns out that the use of this expression was used before 1826 and all the way through the 19th century. Below is a list I sent my friend with the proof of the expression based on the copyrights of the works.
1826 The london literary gazette and journal of belles letters, arts... pg.70 (And another publication same year, same story)
1846 A Dictionary of the English & German, and the German and English... Vol. 2 pg 407
1866 Saturday Reader Vol 2 pg 53
1869 Once a Week pg 131
I'm sharing this with all of you to point out that when researching and writing historicals we might use an expression that is historically correct but might not be thought of as historical. To check on expression type the expression in quotes and search libraries like google books. Narrow the search by selecting free books and 19th century (If that is the time period you are writing in.) and see if the expression you wish to use was used then.
Another point to remember: Editor's still might ask you to change the expression because they feel it might jar the reader out of the story even though you know you are historically accurate. In which case, you change the expression. I try to write expressions that are unique to the character, their surroundings and their personality. Sometimes I've come up with more powerful expressions for my characters. Other times, a common expression is the way to go because the reader zooms right past and doesn't require additional musing over your word choice. In the end work it out with your editor and be true to your story and characters.
Showing posts with label 1866. Show all posts
Showing posts with label 1866. Show all posts
Wednesday, August 9, 2017
Thursday, June 1, 2017
Cherokee Strip
Is an area in Kansas that was disputed between the Indians and the United States. It was the Southern boarder of the state. Cherokee Outlet was the Northern part of Oklahoma also involved in the dispute.
This land was in dispute since 1825 - 1866, at which time the Treaty of 1866 selling the land for not less than $1.25 an acre. In 1871 the land was surveyed and found to be off by 2.46 miles.
Here's a link to a web page with a Map of the area: http://www.usgennet.org/usa/ok/state/outlet/strip.html There are also some great books out there regarding the history of this area.
This land was in dispute since 1825 - 1866, at which time the Treaty of 1866 selling the land for not less than $1.25 an acre. In 1871 the land was surveyed and found to be off by 2.46 miles.
Here's a link to a web page with a Map of the area: http://www.usgennet.org/usa/ok/state/outlet/strip.html There are also some great books out there regarding the history of this area.
Tuesday, April 11, 2017
Etiquette & Manners
Etiquette & Manners is something often discussed on some of my of the writer loops I belong to as they pertain to the 19th century. Through Google books I've found a great source of books regarding such topics. Below is a list ordered by the year they were published. I've gathered this resource list over the past two years from Google Books. Hope it helps you in your search for proper behavior in the time period of your setting.
1832 Domestic Manners of the Americans
1835 Pencil Sketches
1837 The Young Lady's Friend
1839 Miss Leslie's Behavior Book
1842 Elegant Extracts
1843 Etiquette or, A Guide to The Usages of Society with a Glance at Bad Habits
1854 Etiquette Social Ethics and the Curtiousy of Society
1854 The Behavior Book
1860 The Gentlemen's Book of Etiquette and Manners
1860 The Hand Book of Etiquette
1866 Marine's Sensible Letter Writer
1868 Manners or Happy Homes
1870 Good Manners a Manual of Ediquette
1872 The Ladie's Book of Etiquette and Manual of Politeness
1873 The Gentlemen's Book of Etiquette and Manual of Politeness
1884 Don't: A Manual of Mistakes and Improprieties More or Less
1888 Manners
1889 American Etiquette and Rules of Politeness
1889 Perfect Etiquette or How to Behave in social...
1892 Etiquette An Answer to the Riddle, When? Where? How?
1896 Social Etiquette or Manners and Customs of Polite Society
1897 Manners for Men
1897 Practical Letter Writing
1899 Twenty Letters in Letter Writing and Business
1832 Domestic Manners of the Americans
1835 Pencil Sketches
1837 The Young Lady's Friend
1839 Miss Leslie's Behavior Book
1842 Elegant Extracts
1843 Etiquette or, A Guide to The Usages of Society with a Glance at Bad Habits
1854 Etiquette Social Ethics and the Curtiousy of Society
1854 The Behavior Book
1860 The Gentlemen's Book of Etiquette and Manners
1860 The Hand Book of Etiquette
1866 Marine's Sensible Letter Writer
1868 Manners or Happy Homes
1870 Good Manners a Manual of Ediquette
1872 The Ladie's Book of Etiquette and Manual of Politeness
1873 The Gentlemen's Book of Etiquette and Manual of Politeness
1884 Don't: A Manual of Mistakes and Improprieties More or Less
1888 Manners
1889 American Etiquette and Rules of Politeness
1889 Perfect Etiquette or How to Behave in social...
1892 Etiquette An Answer to the Riddle, When? Where? How?
1896 Social Etiquette or Manners and Customs of Polite Society
1897 Manners for Men
1897 Practical Letter Writing
1899 Twenty Letters in Letter Writing and Business
Thursday, February 2, 2017
Letter Writing
Today we text and we have cell phones, email, instant messaging, etc. Back in the 19th century letter writing was at the heart of almost all correspondence. Below is an example given by Arthur Martine in his little book "Martine's sensible letter-writer." ©1866 I stumbled across this little gem while searching ebay, believe it or not. Google books has the entire book available for download You might want to download a copy to get a sense of the language used during that time period. You won't find LOL or any of the other modern day short cuts but it is quite enjoyable to see how they choose their wording.
To a Friend, on being Married.
New York, Oct. 10th, 18—. My Dear Frank,—I believe there are certain stereotyped phrases in which it is customary to congratulate newly married folks ; but utterly discarding all rules and regulations in such cases made and provided, I wish you joy in the familiar words which our friendship warrants and my feelings suggest. If your married life is half as happy as I desire it to be, you will have good cause to be satisfied with your lot. Present my kind regards and compliments to your bride. Wishing you many happy returns of the anniversary of the wedding-day, I remain, Your attached friend,
Frederick Fielding.
To Francis Moore, Esq., Cincinnati, Ohio.
Reply to the Foregoing.
Broadway, Cincinnati, Oct . 15th, 18—. Dear Fred,—Lest you should think my happiness— which I can assure you is complete—has made me forgetful of a valued friend, I take the earliest possible opportunity of thanking you for the good wishes you tender to myself and my dear Lucy. I think they will be realized as far as mutual affection can realize them. To say the truth, I am so delighted with my condition as a Benedict that I feel inclined to say to every bachelor and widower, "Go and do likewise." Yours truly,
Frank Moore.
To a Friend, on being Married.
New York, Oct. 10th, 18—. My Dear Frank,—I believe there are certain stereotyped phrases in which it is customary to congratulate newly married folks ; but utterly discarding all rules and regulations in such cases made and provided, I wish you joy in the familiar words which our friendship warrants and my feelings suggest. If your married life is half as happy as I desire it to be, you will have good cause to be satisfied with your lot. Present my kind regards and compliments to your bride. Wishing you many happy returns of the anniversary of the wedding-day, I remain, Your attached friend,
Frederick Fielding.
To Francis Moore, Esq., Cincinnati, Ohio.
Reply to the Foregoing.
Broadway, Cincinnati, Oct . 15th, 18—. Dear Fred,—Lest you should think my happiness— which I can assure you is complete—has made me forgetful of a valued friend, I take the earliest possible opportunity of thanking you for the good wishes you tender to myself and my dear Lucy. I think they will be realized as far as mutual affection can realize them. To say the truth, I am so delighted with my condition as a Benedict that I feel inclined to say to every bachelor and widower, "Go and do likewise." Yours truly,
Frank Moore.
Monday, November 14, 2016
Oil Discovery
Here is a brief outline sketch of the oil history in the 19th century.
1846 Kerosene as fuel was introduced by Canadian Abraham Gesner
1853 a Russian sea captain noted the oil along the shoreline of Cook Inlet, Alaska.
1854 the North American Gas Light Company was formed.
1859 NW Pennsylvania an important well is drilled for the soul purpose of finding oil.
1862 first commercial oil well in Canon City, Colorado.
1865 first oil pipeline was constructed.
1865 California's first productive well was drilled.
1866 First well in Texas drilled by Lyne T. Barret. wasn't exploited until 1888 when a crew of drillers from the PA came to lend a hand.
1872 Robert Augustus patents Vaseline from the unwanted goop of the PA wells.
1892 First well strike in Southern California was drilled by Edward L. Doheny indowntown LA
1896 some marginally successful wells were drilled in Corsicana, Texas.
1897 500 wells in LA, California
1897 oil discovered in Oklahoma
1898 Oil drilling begins in Alaska
1846 Kerosene as fuel was introduced by Canadian Abraham Gesner
1853 a Russian sea captain noted the oil along the shoreline of Cook Inlet, Alaska.
1854 the North American Gas Light Company was formed.
1859 NW Pennsylvania an important well is drilled for the soul purpose of finding oil.
1862 first commercial oil well in Canon City, Colorado.
1865 first oil pipeline was constructed.
1865 California's first productive well was drilled.
1866 First well in Texas drilled by Lyne T. Barret. wasn't exploited until 1888 when a crew of drillers from the PA came to lend a hand.
1872 Robert Augustus patents Vaseline from the unwanted goop of the PA wells.
1892 First well strike in Southern California was drilled by Edward L. Doheny indowntown LA
1896 some marginally successful wells were drilled in Corsicana, Texas.
1897 500 wells in LA, California
1897 oil discovered in Oklahoma
1898 Oil drilling begins in Alaska
Saturday, November 12, 2016
Tin Can Timeline
In 1810 a British inventor invents the tin can. It's very thick at this time.
1813 the first canning factory is opened.
(early seals were made with lead, which we now knows led to lead poisoning.)
1822 William Underwood founded a canning company in Boston. You've probably seen the Underwood logo when you've purchased Deviled Ham. It wasn't until 1836 (another date I found was 1839) that he shifted from glass to steel cans coated with tin.
1846 a machine to make tin cans is invented. It produces sixty tin cans per hour. Prior to that the production of tin cans was 6 per hour.
1858 first can opener invented by Ezra Warner
1860 Baltimore canner Isaac Soloman added calcium chloride to the boiling water to sterilization and reduced the time from 5 to 6 hours to 30 minutes.
1861-1864 US military uses tin can during the Civil War
1866 patent for the tin can with a key opener is invented.
1870 an easier to use can opener is invented by William Lyman
1897 research found by Underwood's grandson and biologist from MIT that spores were contained in the meats canned and would cause the "swells" in the cans. They found that heat at 250 degrees for 10 minutes killed the spores. The process wasn't patented but worked.
1813 the first canning factory is opened.
(early seals were made with lead, which we now knows led to lead poisoning.)
1822 William Underwood founded a canning company in Boston. You've probably seen the Underwood logo when you've purchased Deviled Ham. It wasn't until 1836 (another date I found was 1839) that he shifted from glass to steel cans coated with tin.
1846 a machine to make tin cans is invented. It produces sixty tin cans per hour. Prior to that the production of tin cans was 6 per hour.
1858 first can opener invented by Ezra Warner
1860 Baltimore canner Isaac Soloman added calcium chloride to the boiling water to sterilization and reduced the time from 5 to 6 hours to 30 minutes.
1861-1864 US military uses tin can during the Civil War
1866 patent for the tin can with a key opener is invented.
1870 an easier to use can opener is invented by William Lyman
1897 research found by Underwood's grandson and biologist from MIT that spores were contained in the meats canned and would cause the "swells" in the cans. They found that heat at 250 degrees for 10 minutes killed the spores. The process wasn't patented but worked.
Saturday, November 5, 2016
Silver Plating
Below is an article from Scientific America, 1866 on silver plating.
Silver Plating.
A correspondent asks for information about the above subject; we have, of course, no room for a full treatise on this matter, as it would fill a book; the following remarks will, however, place him and others on the road to the successful practice of this interesting art.
1.—OLD METHOD OF SILVER PLATING.
Formerly a copper plate was covered with a much thinner silver plate, and then rolled out together; in this way a very thin coating of silver covered tho copper entirely, sometimes on both sides ; of such silver-covered copper plates, different objects were manufactured, as teapots, pitchers, goblets, etc. This is still practiced ; however, to a very limited extent since the invention of the electro-plating process. The daguerreotypo plates are chiefly manufactured in this way.
2.—SILVER PLATING BY FRICTION.
Objects made of copper or brass may be coated in a simple way by a process described by Berzelius in his chemistry, by rubbing them with a chemical mixture consisting of chloride of silver, 1 part ; well dried potash, 3 parts; Paris white (very fine chalk), 1 part; common salt, a little more than 1 part. The brass surface, is well cleaned, moistened with a little salt water, and then the surface is rubbed with the above mixture till it is silvered. This is the customary way that the thermometer and barometer scales, clock dials, etc., are silvered, and it is well to cover them afterward with e colorless varnish, the process being so very economical, and the silver coating consequently so thin, that when dirty it can stand so much cleaning and polishing afterward without being removed. A iater invented method to accomplish the same purpose, and which many operators prefer, is to take 1 part of nitrate of silver and 3 parts of cyanide of potassium, rub these together and add a little water to make them into a paste ; rub this with a piece of flannel on the object to be silvered, which, however, before must have been carefully cleaned. This process is peculiarly adapted to copper and brass name-plates attached to apparatus, etc. The film of silver obtained in this way is also very thin, and it is also advisable to cover it with a colorless varnish. When calculating the price of this process after silverin g a great number of objects, it is always found to amount to only from 1 to 2 cents per square foot.
8—SILVER PLATING BY A SIMPLE BATH.
This method requires no friction whatever, and is accomplished thus: Make a saturated solution of common salt, dissolve cyanide of silver in it, and filter. A piece of clean copper or brass placed in this solution is soon covered with a silver coating which adheres very strongly.
If the object to be silvered is iron, it must first be coated with copper, as silver will not very well equally deposit on iron. This is simply accomplished by placing the iron object for a sufficient time in a diluted solution of blue vitriol (sulphate of copper) acidulated with sulphuric acid ; afterward wash and clean the object, and when it is well covered with copper, place it in the above described silver bath.
Care must bo taken not to touch the cleaned object with the fingers, as the silver will never deposit equally on the thus touched spots.
4.—SILVER PLATING BY ELECTRIC ACTION.
The most important way of silvering is, however, the electro-plating or galvanic process. This is founded on the fact that when an easily oxidable metal, like zinc, is placed in a properly prepared silvering liquid, it will combine with, the acids which hold the silver in solution, and the silver will be precipitated in its metallic state on any object in contact with the zinc, provided the surface of this object is a conductor of electricity. The simplest i xplanation of this curious fact, is that the action of the acids on the zinc generates electricity which repels the metallic silver from the zinc and carries it to any other metal plunged in the liquid, provided this metal is not acted on by the acid, and is in contact with the ziric, so that it may carry back the electric current to the latter metal. The metal receiving the silver deposit acts as it were like a sieve ■which lets the ethereal electric current pass through its mass, but retains on its surface the material particles of silver carried on with that current. We do not say that this is the latest and most approved explanation of the phenomenon, which, in reality, is more complex, but it is the simplest reasoning by which beginners, in this branch of study, may satisfactorily account to themselves for the curious results they observe.
In a continuation of this article, we will describe the various processes of electro-plating ; first, the simple process without battery, and, second, that with the help of galvanic batteries.
Silver Plating.
A correspondent asks for information about the above subject; we have, of course, no room for a full treatise on this matter, as it would fill a book; the following remarks will, however, place him and others on the road to the successful practice of this interesting art.
1.—OLD METHOD OF SILVER PLATING.
Formerly a copper plate was covered with a much thinner silver plate, and then rolled out together; in this way a very thin coating of silver covered tho copper entirely, sometimes on both sides ; of such silver-covered copper plates, different objects were manufactured, as teapots, pitchers, goblets, etc. This is still practiced ; however, to a very limited extent since the invention of the electro-plating process. The daguerreotypo plates are chiefly manufactured in this way.
2.—SILVER PLATING BY FRICTION.
Objects made of copper or brass may be coated in a simple way by a process described by Berzelius in his chemistry, by rubbing them with a chemical mixture consisting of chloride of silver, 1 part ; well dried potash, 3 parts; Paris white (very fine chalk), 1 part; common salt, a little more than 1 part. The brass surface, is well cleaned, moistened with a little salt water, and then the surface is rubbed with the above mixture till it is silvered. This is the customary way that the thermometer and barometer scales, clock dials, etc., are silvered, and it is well to cover them afterward with e colorless varnish, the process being so very economical, and the silver coating consequently so thin, that when dirty it can stand so much cleaning and polishing afterward without being removed. A iater invented method to accomplish the same purpose, and which many operators prefer, is to take 1 part of nitrate of silver and 3 parts of cyanide of potassium, rub these together and add a little water to make them into a paste ; rub this with a piece of flannel on the object to be silvered, which, however, before must have been carefully cleaned. This process is peculiarly adapted to copper and brass name-plates attached to apparatus, etc. The film of silver obtained in this way is also very thin, and it is also advisable to cover it with a colorless varnish. When calculating the price of this process after silverin g a great number of objects, it is always found to amount to only from 1 to 2 cents per square foot.
8—SILVER PLATING BY A SIMPLE BATH.
This method requires no friction whatever, and is accomplished thus: Make a saturated solution of common salt, dissolve cyanide of silver in it, and filter. A piece of clean copper or brass placed in this solution is soon covered with a silver coating which adheres very strongly.
If the object to be silvered is iron, it must first be coated with copper, as silver will not very well equally deposit on iron. This is simply accomplished by placing the iron object for a sufficient time in a diluted solution of blue vitriol (sulphate of copper) acidulated with sulphuric acid ; afterward wash and clean the object, and when it is well covered with copper, place it in the above described silver bath.
Care must bo taken not to touch the cleaned object with the fingers, as the silver will never deposit equally on the thus touched spots.
4.—SILVER PLATING BY ELECTRIC ACTION.
The most important way of silvering is, however, the electro-plating or galvanic process. This is founded on the fact that when an easily oxidable metal, like zinc, is placed in a properly prepared silvering liquid, it will combine with, the acids which hold the silver in solution, and the silver will be precipitated in its metallic state on any object in contact with the zinc, provided the surface of this object is a conductor of electricity. The simplest i xplanation of this curious fact, is that the action of the acids on the zinc generates electricity which repels the metallic silver from the zinc and carries it to any other metal plunged in the liquid, provided this metal is not acted on by the acid, and is in contact with the ziric, so that it may carry back the electric current to the latter metal. The metal receiving the silver deposit acts as it were like a sieve ■which lets the ethereal electric current pass through its mass, but retains on its surface the material particles of silver carried on with that current. We do not say that this is the latest and most approved explanation of the phenomenon, which, in reality, is more complex, but it is the simplest reasoning by which beginners, in this branch of study, may satisfactorily account to themselves for the curious results they observe.
In a continuation of this article, we will describe the various processes of electro-plating ; first, the simple process without battery, and, second, that with the help of galvanic batteries.
Wednesday, October 19, 2016
Temperance Movement Part 1
During the 19th Century this movement was trying to deal with the drug and alcohol abuse sweeping the United States. You can read a good overview of the movement here with this link The temperance Movement had a huge impact during the 19th century. I'll try to post some resources that might help us better understand the opinions of that time.
Below is an excerpt from the irish temperance league journal for 1866
MEDICAL CONTROVERSY ON TEETOTALISM.
The object of the meeting being to bring the claims of teetotalism before as many influential people as could be induced to listen to them, free expression of opinion ■was solicited, and Dr. Webster of BrookStreet, then ascended the platform and said:—
It is great presumption on my part to appear on the platform; but, as the last speaker has alluded to the profession to which I have the honor to belong, I feel, in some degree, it is my duty, at all events, as an humble in
dividual, to protest, in regard to a certain point, against the observations which he has made. He has stated that the medical profession are rather remiss in not recommending abstinence from spirituous liquors. Now, with all respect for the worthy Chamberlain, I think that does not apply to the large [body of the profession, because, within my own knowledge, there are various members of the profession who are not only total abstainers, but also are strong advocates for temperance, and I know that one of the frequent prescriptions to patients who come under their care is the recommendation to abstain from intoxicating liquors because of the nature of the disease from which they are suffering. I do not pretend to call myself a teetotaler, but I am a great advocate for temperance. My habitual beverage is water. I never drink malt liquor; and, though a Scotchman, I seldom or never taste whiskey—(laughter)—but still I do not go the whole length of what I have heard this evening, of being, in every instance, a total abstainer. But that, of course, I will not enter upon : I only wish to protest against its being supposed that the medical profession are not strong advocates, as a body, of temperance to their patients. The case mentioned, I think, would be rather exceptional, and I should like very much to know if the medical gentleman referred to knew that the person for whom he prescribed spirits was a total abstainer.
Mr. Scott—Yes, he was quite aware of the case, and had prescribed for the man three years before.
Dr. Webster—Allusion has been made to the evil consequences of intoxicating liquors. I go the whole length of the arguments urged to-night in that respect. It is known that it frequently produces lunacy. I think I am, in some degree, able to give an opinion on the subject, because I have visited almost all the lunatic asylums in Europe, that is to say, the chief ones in every part of Europe. That has been the object with, which I have occupied myself for a number of years, and I have no hesitation in saying that in this country, and in other parts of Europe, intoxicating liquors are the very frequent cause of insanity i and I think medical gentlemen, and all other persons in the community, should do everything they possibly can to promote temperance on this ground alone. I must apologise again for having presumed to address this meeting ; but I could not listen to what the worthy Chamberlain was saying, without availing myself of the opportunity of stating that there are a great many members of my profession who are advocates of temperance, and who not only commend the practice itself, but are actually total abstainers. (Applause.)
Mr. Scott: I have only one word to say in explanation. In my remarks I did not intend to include the whole medical body. I am quite aware that 2,000, a large proportion of them, not very long since, signed a paper strongly commending this movement to the adoption of the public; but there are still a large number who, on every occasion, and in my own humble case, have recommended wine and spirits when I think we might have been better treated from their own private surgeries. (Hear, hear, and applause.)
Below is an excerpt from the irish temperance league journal for 1866
MEDICAL CONTROVERSY ON TEETOTALISM.
The object of the meeting being to bring the claims of teetotalism before as many influential people as could be induced to listen to them, free expression of opinion ■was solicited, and Dr. Webster of BrookStreet, then ascended the platform and said:—
It is great presumption on my part to appear on the platform; but, as the last speaker has alluded to the profession to which I have the honor to belong, I feel, in some degree, it is my duty, at all events, as an humble in
dividual, to protest, in regard to a certain point, against the observations which he has made. He has stated that the medical profession are rather remiss in not recommending abstinence from spirituous liquors. Now, with all respect for the worthy Chamberlain, I think that does not apply to the large [body of the profession, because, within my own knowledge, there are various members of the profession who are not only total abstainers, but also are strong advocates for temperance, and I know that one of the frequent prescriptions to patients who come under their care is the recommendation to abstain from intoxicating liquors because of the nature of the disease from which they are suffering. I do not pretend to call myself a teetotaler, but I am a great advocate for temperance. My habitual beverage is water. I never drink malt liquor; and, though a Scotchman, I seldom or never taste whiskey—(laughter)—but still I do not go the whole length of what I have heard this evening, of being, in every instance, a total abstainer. But that, of course, I will not enter upon : I only wish to protest against its being supposed that the medical profession are not strong advocates, as a body, of temperance to their patients. The case mentioned, I think, would be rather exceptional, and I should like very much to know if the medical gentleman referred to knew that the person for whom he prescribed spirits was a total abstainer.
Mr. Scott—Yes, he was quite aware of the case, and had prescribed for the man three years before.
Dr. Webster—Allusion has been made to the evil consequences of intoxicating liquors. I go the whole length of the arguments urged to-night in that respect. It is known that it frequently produces lunacy. I think I am, in some degree, able to give an opinion on the subject, because I have visited almost all the lunatic asylums in Europe, that is to say, the chief ones in every part of Europe. That has been the object with, which I have occupied myself for a number of years, and I have no hesitation in saying that in this country, and in other parts of Europe, intoxicating liquors are the very frequent cause of insanity i and I think medical gentlemen, and all other persons in the community, should do everything they possibly can to promote temperance on this ground alone. I must apologise again for having presumed to address this meeting ; but I could not listen to what the worthy Chamberlain was saying, without availing myself of the opportunity of stating that there are a great many members of my profession who are advocates of temperance, and who not only commend the practice itself, but are actually total abstainers. (Applause.)
Mr. Scott: I have only one word to say in explanation. In my remarks I did not intend to include the whole medical body. I am quite aware that 2,000, a large proportion of them, not very long since, signed a paper strongly commending this movement to the adoption of the public; but there are still a large number who, on every occasion, and in my own humble case, have recommended wine and spirits when I think we might have been better treated from their own private surgeries. (Hear, hear, and applause.)
Friday, September 23, 2016
Gatling Gun
From what I can see, the Gatling Gun was created and patented in 1861 by Dr. Richard Gatling during the Civil war. It was the first machine gun since it was crank-perated and multi-barreled. In 1862 the gun used steel chambers and percussion caps. In 1866 or 67 (I've seen both dates) Gatling redesigned the gun and this version was purchased by the U.S. army. The Gatling gun was obsolete in 1911 after 45 years of service with the army.
Below is a copy of the patent Gatling presented in 1865
Dr. Gatlin describes the gun:
The gun consists of a series of barrels in combination with a grooved carrier and lock cylinder. All these several parts are rigidly secured upon a main shaft. There are as many grooves in the carrier, and as many holes in the lock cylinder, as there are barrels. Each barrel is furnished with one lock, so that a gun with ten barrels has ten locks. The locks work in the holes formed in the lock cylinder on a line with the axis of the barrels. The lock cylinder, which contains the lock, is surrounded by a casing, which is fastened to a frame, to which trimmers are attached. There is a partition in the casing, through which there is an opening, and into which the main shaft, which carries the lock cylinder, carrier, and barrels, is journaled. The main shaft is also at its front end journaled in the front part of the frame. In front of the partition in the casing is placed a cam, provided with spiral surfaces or inclined planes.
" This cam is rigidly fastened to the casing, and is used to impart a reciprocating motion to the locks when the gun is rotated. There is also in the front part of the casing a cocking ring which surrounds the lock cylinder, is attached to the casing, and has on its rear surface an inclined plane with an abrupt shoulder. This ring and its projection are used for cocking and firing the gun. This ring, the spiral cam, and the locks make up the loading and firing mechanism.
" On the rear end of the main shaft, in rear of the partition in the casing, is located a gear-wheel, which works to a Kinion on the crank-shaft. The rear of the casing is closed by the cascable plate. There is hinged to the frame in front of the breech-casing a curved plate, covering partially the grooved carrier, into which is formed a hopper or opening, through which the cartridges are fed to the gun from feed-cases. The frame which supports the gun is mounted upon the carriage used for the transportation of the gun.
" The operation of the gun is very simple. One man places a feed-case filled with cartridges into the hopper; another man turns the crank, which, by the agency of the gearing, revolves the main shaft, carrying with it the lock cylinder, carrier, barrels, and locks. As the gun is rotated, the cartridges, one by one, drop into the grooves of the carrier from the feedcases, and instantly the lock, by its impingement on the spiral cam surfaces, moves forward to load the cartridge, and when the butt-end of the lock gets on the highest projection of the cam, the charge is fired, through the agency of the cocking device, which at this point liberates the lock, spring, and hammer, and explodes the cartridge. As soon as the charge is fired, the lock, as the gun is revolved, is drawn back by the agency of the spiral surface in the cam acting on a lug of the lock, bringing with it the shell of the cartridge after it has been fired, which is dropped on the ground. Thus, it will be seen, when the gun is rotated, the locks in rapid succession move forward to load and fire, and return to extract the cartridge-shells. In other words, the whole operation of loading, closing the breech, discharging, and expelling the empty cartridge-shells is conducted while the barrels are kept in continuous revolving movement. It must be borne in mind that while the locks revolve with the barrels, they have also, in their line of travel, a spiral reciprocating movement ; that is, each lock revolves once and moves forward and back at each revolution of the gun.
"The gun is so novel in its construction and operation that it is almost impossible to describe it minutely without the aid of drawings. Its main features may be summed up thus : ist.—Each barrel in the gun is provided with its own independent lock or firing mechanism. 2nd.—All the locks revolve simultaneously with the barrels, carrier, and inner breech, when thel,Tin is in operation. The locks also have, as stated, a reciprocating motion when the gun is rotated. The gun cannot be fired when either the barrels or locks are at rest.
There is a beautiful mechanical principle developed in the gun, viz., that while the gun itself is under uniform constant rotary motion, the locks rotate with the barrels and breech, and at the same time have a longitudinal reciprocating motion, performing the consecutive operations of loading, cocking, and firing without any pause whatever in the several and continuous operations.
The small Gatling is supplied with another improvement called the "drum feed." This case is divided into sixteen sections, each of which contains twenty-five cartridges, and is placed on a vertical axis on the top of the gun. As fast as one section is discharged, it rotates, and brings another section over the feed aperture, until the whole 400 charges are expended.
Below is a copy of the patent Gatling presented in 1865
Dr. Gatlin describes the gun:
The gun consists of a series of barrels in combination with a grooved carrier and lock cylinder. All these several parts are rigidly secured upon a main shaft. There are as many grooves in the carrier, and as many holes in the lock cylinder, as there are barrels. Each barrel is furnished with one lock, so that a gun with ten barrels has ten locks. The locks work in the holes formed in the lock cylinder on a line with the axis of the barrels. The lock cylinder, which contains the lock, is surrounded by a casing, which is fastened to a frame, to which trimmers are attached. There is a partition in the casing, through which there is an opening, and into which the main shaft, which carries the lock cylinder, carrier, and barrels, is journaled. The main shaft is also at its front end journaled in the front part of the frame. In front of the partition in the casing is placed a cam, provided with spiral surfaces or inclined planes.
" This cam is rigidly fastened to the casing, and is used to impart a reciprocating motion to the locks when the gun is rotated. There is also in the front part of the casing a cocking ring which surrounds the lock cylinder, is attached to the casing, and has on its rear surface an inclined plane with an abrupt shoulder. This ring and its projection are used for cocking and firing the gun. This ring, the spiral cam, and the locks make up the loading and firing mechanism.
" On the rear end of the main shaft, in rear of the partition in the casing, is located a gear-wheel, which works to a Kinion on the crank-shaft. The rear of the casing is closed by the cascable plate. There is hinged to the frame in front of the breech-casing a curved plate, covering partially the grooved carrier, into which is formed a hopper or opening, through which the cartridges are fed to the gun from feed-cases. The frame which supports the gun is mounted upon the carriage used for the transportation of the gun.
" The operation of the gun is very simple. One man places a feed-case filled with cartridges into the hopper; another man turns the crank, which, by the agency of the gearing, revolves the main shaft, carrying with it the lock cylinder, carrier, barrels, and locks. As the gun is rotated, the cartridges, one by one, drop into the grooves of the carrier from the feedcases, and instantly the lock, by its impingement on the spiral cam surfaces, moves forward to load the cartridge, and when the butt-end of the lock gets on the highest projection of the cam, the charge is fired, through the agency of the cocking device, which at this point liberates the lock, spring, and hammer, and explodes the cartridge. As soon as the charge is fired, the lock, as the gun is revolved, is drawn back by the agency of the spiral surface in the cam acting on a lug of the lock, bringing with it the shell of the cartridge after it has been fired, which is dropped on the ground. Thus, it will be seen, when the gun is rotated, the locks in rapid succession move forward to load and fire, and return to extract the cartridge-shells. In other words, the whole operation of loading, closing the breech, discharging, and expelling the empty cartridge-shells is conducted while the barrels are kept in continuous revolving movement. It must be borne in mind that while the locks revolve with the barrels, they have also, in their line of travel, a spiral reciprocating movement ; that is, each lock revolves once and moves forward and back at each revolution of the gun.
"The gun is so novel in its construction and operation that it is almost impossible to describe it minutely without the aid of drawings. Its main features may be summed up thus : ist.—Each barrel in the gun is provided with its own independent lock or firing mechanism. 2nd.—All the locks revolve simultaneously with the barrels, carrier, and inner breech, when thel,Tin is in operation. The locks also have, as stated, a reciprocating motion when the gun is rotated. The gun cannot be fired when either the barrels or locks are at rest.
There is a beautiful mechanical principle developed in the gun, viz., that while the gun itself is under uniform constant rotary motion, the locks rotate with the barrels and breech, and at the same time have a longitudinal reciprocating motion, performing the consecutive operations of loading, cocking, and firing without any pause whatever in the several and continuous operations.
The small Gatling is supplied with another improvement called the "drum feed." This case is divided into sixteen sections, each of which contains twenty-five cartridges, and is placed on a vertical axis on the top of the gun. As fast as one section is discharged, it rotates, and brings another section over the feed aperture, until the whole 400 charges are expended.
Saturday, September 17, 2016
The Economic aspects of Horseshoeing
THE ECONOMIC ASPECTS OF HORSESHOEING.
There is nothing like leather, removes, and bishops.—So say the metropolitan blacksmiths and coachmen, who laugh in their sleeves at the simplicity of horse proprietors, and care not a jot how soon a good piece of horse-flesh is set up on stilts instead of retaining the elasticity and freedom of four sound legs. Horseshoeing is a science and an art. Its science has been neglected, and is foully vilified by those who assert that the connection with the forge is the curse and degradation of the veterinary profession. A good cloak for ignorance this, and the argument appears plausible when we take into consideration the crooked practices which butter the groom's or coachman's bread, and enable the farrier to eke out a miserable pittance. There is probably no branch of skilled labour more inadequately remunerated than that of shoeing horses. To acquire great dexterity in the art calls for many years' toil and practice, and after all, when thoroughly learned, the amount of hard work which the farrier has to go through is probably not equalled by that of any other mechanic. A horse has to be shod, and two men are engaged for a whole hour, and sometimes more, in making, fitting, and applying shoes to feet which are as various in form as men's faces, and which call for great intelligence to avoid mutilation and irretrievable destruction. By fair means this slow and laborious work cannot be made to pay. Five shillings for a set of shoes is a miserable recompense, and in many a country district the charge is two-and-eightpence, three and four shillings. The country smith makes up the deficiency by jobbing, mending or making rails, gates, ploughs, and every other object of which iron forms part. The horseshoeing is done as a necessity and introduction for other work. In large cities veterinarians open up forges, that they may get horses to treat and drug. They acknowledge that the forge does not pay, but they try to scrape odds and ends together even in the forge. Thus there is a prevailing notion that iron is not a good thing when applied directly against the hoof, and if a horse is ' going short,' they propose leather soles. This is a grand institution. In two minutes a piece of leather is cut to the shape of the foot, nailed between the shoe and hoof, and an extra shilling per shoe covers a multitude of sins. In order to make the foot look neat, and to avoid the entire and unsightly leather sole, a portion is often cut to the shape of the shoe and nailed in a similar manner. It is so much the better if this tends to favour the loosening of the shoe and its displacement. The horse must then visit the forge for removes or new sets. London coachmen do not like substantial shoeing. To get the bill heavy enough for a good per centage, there must be removes every fortnight, and a new set of shoes every three weeks. ' It won't do,' say thev, ' to ' keep the shoes on too long.' The feet must be pared out frequently, or the horse has a ' nasty corn,' which requires cutting, and everything is done which favours the destruction rather than the preservation of horses' feet. We have been told that it would not do to put on shoes which a horse can wear a month. Light shoes are best to add weight to the pocket where per centages are going. We have known on more than one occasion that there was an understanding between a blacksmith and coachman, that whether horses were shod every three weeks or not, the sets of shoes were to be marked in the bill with great regularity. The plunder was shared, of course. Another system adopted is that of turning old shoes into new, bypassing them through the fire. They have a red, rusty look, and are well known in the trade as bishops. They are the * cardinals' of the Italian smiths, and the red stockings of prelates doubtless suggested the names at home and abroad. The petty swindles we are anxious to expose, hurt the pockets of owners less directly than indirectly. They necessitate a frequent tampering with horses' feet, and the adoption of a practice in the case of leather soles which cannot, as a rule, be too strongly condemned. Show us a lot of horses with leather soles, and some with bar shoes on their feet, and no other proof is wanting to indicate that the farrier is a bungler, or that, in the case of the leather appendages, there is a quiet understanding between the tradesman and the servant. Veterinary colleges can do much to correct these abuses, as, indeed, they can to protect the owners of horses from the extravagant charges made by some practitioners. In illustration of this a case may be mentioned. A gentleman owning a mare worth under 50l, had occasion to send her to a veterinary infirmary. She remained there six weeks, and was sent home cured, with a bill amounting to 27l, This is a common case ; and the best safeguard against such a process of extortion, is to subscribe two guineas to a veterinary college, and get medical advice and treatment for animals without charge, except for keep. John Gamgee.
Albert Veterinary (.'olleyr, Bnyswatcr,
Dreembtr, 1865.
This comes from: Baily's magazine of sports and pastimes, Volume 36 ©1866
There is nothing like leather, removes, and bishops.—So say the metropolitan blacksmiths and coachmen, who laugh in their sleeves at the simplicity of horse proprietors, and care not a jot how soon a good piece of horse-flesh is set up on stilts instead of retaining the elasticity and freedom of four sound legs. Horseshoeing is a science and an art. Its science has been neglected, and is foully vilified by those who assert that the connection with the forge is the curse and degradation of the veterinary profession. A good cloak for ignorance this, and the argument appears plausible when we take into consideration the crooked practices which butter the groom's or coachman's bread, and enable the farrier to eke out a miserable pittance. There is probably no branch of skilled labour more inadequately remunerated than that of shoeing horses. To acquire great dexterity in the art calls for many years' toil and practice, and after all, when thoroughly learned, the amount of hard work which the farrier has to go through is probably not equalled by that of any other mechanic. A horse has to be shod, and two men are engaged for a whole hour, and sometimes more, in making, fitting, and applying shoes to feet which are as various in form as men's faces, and which call for great intelligence to avoid mutilation and irretrievable destruction. By fair means this slow and laborious work cannot be made to pay. Five shillings for a set of shoes is a miserable recompense, and in many a country district the charge is two-and-eightpence, three and four shillings. The country smith makes up the deficiency by jobbing, mending or making rails, gates, ploughs, and every other object of which iron forms part. The horseshoeing is done as a necessity and introduction for other work. In large cities veterinarians open up forges, that they may get horses to treat and drug. They acknowledge that the forge does not pay, but they try to scrape odds and ends together even in the forge. Thus there is a prevailing notion that iron is not a good thing when applied directly against the hoof, and if a horse is ' going short,' they propose leather soles. This is a grand institution. In two minutes a piece of leather is cut to the shape of the foot, nailed between the shoe and hoof, and an extra shilling per shoe covers a multitude of sins. In order to make the foot look neat, and to avoid the entire and unsightly leather sole, a portion is often cut to the shape of the shoe and nailed in a similar manner. It is so much the better if this tends to favour the loosening of the shoe and its displacement. The horse must then visit the forge for removes or new sets. London coachmen do not like substantial shoeing. To get the bill heavy enough for a good per centage, there must be removes every fortnight, and a new set of shoes every three weeks. ' It won't do,' say thev, ' to ' keep the shoes on too long.' The feet must be pared out frequently, or the horse has a ' nasty corn,' which requires cutting, and everything is done which favours the destruction rather than the preservation of horses' feet. We have been told that it would not do to put on shoes which a horse can wear a month. Light shoes are best to add weight to the pocket where per centages are going. We have known on more than one occasion that there was an understanding between a blacksmith and coachman, that whether horses were shod every three weeks or not, the sets of shoes were to be marked in the bill with great regularity. The plunder was shared, of course. Another system adopted is that of turning old shoes into new, bypassing them through the fire. They have a red, rusty look, and are well known in the trade as bishops. They are the * cardinals' of the Italian smiths, and the red stockings of prelates doubtless suggested the names at home and abroad. The petty swindles we are anxious to expose, hurt the pockets of owners less directly than indirectly. They necessitate a frequent tampering with horses' feet, and the adoption of a practice in the case of leather soles which cannot, as a rule, be too strongly condemned. Show us a lot of horses with leather soles, and some with bar shoes on their feet, and no other proof is wanting to indicate that the farrier is a bungler, or that, in the case of the leather appendages, there is a quiet understanding between the tradesman and the servant. Veterinary colleges can do much to correct these abuses, as, indeed, they can to protect the owners of horses from the extravagant charges made by some practitioners. In illustration of this a case may be mentioned. A gentleman owning a mare worth under 50l, had occasion to send her to a veterinary infirmary. She remained there six weeks, and was sent home cured, with a bill amounting to 27l, This is a common case ; and the best safeguard against such a process of extortion, is to subscribe two guineas to a veterinary college, and get medical advice and treatment for animals without charge, except for keep. John Gamgee.
Albert Veterinary (.'olleyr, Bnyswatcr,
Dreembtr, 1865.
This comes from: Baily's magazine of sports and pastimes, Volume 36 ©1866
Saturday, August 13, 2016
Gold
Below is a picture taken from page 30 of Houghtaling's Handbook. It's the high and low of the value of gold for each month over a sixteen year period. Since many write historical novels during that time period I thought it might be of value to some of you.
Here's the link to an enlarged image of the page. Link
Here's the link to an enlarged image of the page. Link
Tuesday, April 5, 2016
Drying Beef
Today we can purchase Beef Jerky at just about any store but when 19th Century folks spoke about dried beef, it wasn't what we think of with regard to beef jerky. In fact, you can still find 'dried beef' in some stores today. Below are some recipes from various sources with regard to drying beef. However, "Jerky" as we know it today was referred to as "Jerked Beef or Jerked Meat."
Jerked Meat. — What most persons imagine to be the significance of jerked in the compound "jerked beef" it would be hard to say. The word is not derived from the verb to jerk, but from the Peruvian charki, as is shown by the following citation from Prescott's " Conquest of Peru": "Flesh cut into thin slices was distributed among the people, who converted it into charki, the dried meat of the country."
Source: The Mistakes we Make ©1898
And I stumbled on this tidbit as well:
"Jerked beef" has been an important article of import into Cuba, and it may become still more so in the future, as Texas, with its millions of cattle, has a climate peculiarly adapted to the preparation of this form of beef product.
Source: Industrial Cuba ©1899
Beef—To Pickke For Winter Or Present Use, And For Drying.—Cut your beef into sizable pieces, sprinkle a little salt upon the bottom of the barrel only, then pack your beef without salt amongst it, and when packed pour over it a brine made by dissolving G lbs. of salt for each 100 lbs. of beef in just sufficient cold water to handsomely cover it.
You will find that you can cut and fry as nice as fresh, for a long time; just right for boiling, also; and when it gets a little too salt for frying, you can freshen it nearly as nicely as pork, for frying purposes, or you can boil of it, then make a stew for breakfast, very nice indeed. By the other plan it soon becomes too salt for eating, and the juices are drawn off by the salt. In three weeks, perhaps a lithe less, such pieces as are designed for drying will be ready to hang up, by soaking over night to remove the salt from the outside. Do not be afraid of this way; for it is very nice for winter and drying purposes; but if any is left until warm weather, throw away this brine, put salt amongst what is left and cover with the first brine, and all is right l'oi long keeping.
Source: Dr. Chase's Recipes ©1866
HUNG BEEF. Take any piece of beef you please, some prefer the navel piece; salt it in precisely the same way as directed for ham above, and keep it in salt for about the same period. Dry it also in the same way. When it is wanted boil it till it is tender. Note.—That some direct blood to be washed over the beef during its drying to make it of a dark colour; but this is surely a useless piece of art. Hung beef will require long soaking and boiling to be eatable: we do not much admire it, more especially if, before being salted, the beef has been hung in a cellar, as some of the books direct, till it becomes “a little sappy.”—Sappy indeed must he be who desires or directs the preparation of such a dish!
Source: Two Thousand Five Hundred Recipes in Family Cookery ©1837
DRIED BEEF.
Buy the best of beef, or that part which will be the most lean and tender. The tender part of the round is a very good piece. For every twenty pounds of beef use one pint of salt, one teaspoonful of saltpetre, and a quarter of a pound of brown sugar. Mix them well together, and rub the beef well with one-third of the mixture for three successive days. Let it lie in the liquor it makes for six days, then hang up to dry.
A large crock or jar is a good vessel to prepare the meat in before drying it.
Source: White House Cook Book ©1889
Jerked Meat. — What most persons imagine to be the significance of jerked in the compound "jerked beef" it would be hard to say. The word is not derived from the verb to jerk, but from the Peruvian charki, as is shown by the following citation from Prescott's " Conquest of Peru": "Flesh cut into thin slices was distributed among the people, who converted it into charki, the dried meat of the country."
Source: The Mistakes we Make ©1898
And I stumbled on this tidbit as well:
"Jerked beef" has been an important article of import into Cuba, and it may become still more so in the future, as Texas, with its millions of cattle, has a climate peculiarly adapted to the preparation of this form of beef product.
Source: Industrial Cuba ©1899
Beef—To Pickke For Winter Or Present Use, And For Drying.—Cut your beef into sizable pieces, sprinkle a little salt upon the bottom of the barrel only, then pack your beef without salt amongst it, and when packed pour over it a brine made by dissolving G lbs. of salt for each 100 lbs. of beef in just sufficient cold water to handsomely cover it.
You will find that you can cut and fry as nice as fresh, for a long time; just right for boiling, also; and when it gets a little too salt for frying, you can freshen it nearly as nicely as pork, for frying purposes, or you can boil of it, then make a stew for breakfast, very nice indeed. By the other plan it soon becomes too salt for eating, and the juices are drawn off by the salt. In three weeks, perhaps a lithe less, such pieces as are designed for drying will be ready to hang up, by soaking over night to remove the salt from the outside. Do not be afraid of this way; for it is very nice for winter and drying purposes; but if any is left until warm weather, throw away this brine, put salt amongst what is left and cover with the first brine, and all is right l'oi long keeping.
Source: Dr. Chase's Recipes ©1866
HUNG BEEF. Take any piece of beef you please, some prefer the navel piece; salt it in precisely the same way as directed for ham above, and keep it in salt for about the same period. Dry it also in the same way. When it is wanted boil it till it is tender. Note.—That some direct blood to be washed over the beef during its drying to make it of a dark colour; but this is surely a useless piece of art. Hung beef will require long soaking and boiling to be eatable: we do not much admire it, more especially if, before being salted, the beef has been hung in a cellar, as some of the books direct, till it becomes “a little sappy.”—Sappy indeed must he be who desires or directs the preparation of such a dish!
Source: Two Thousand Five Hundred Recipes in Family Cookery ©1837
DRIED BEEF.
Buy the best of beef, or that part which will be the most lean and tender. The tender part of the round is a very good piece. For every twenty pounds of beef use one pint of salt, one teaspoonful of saltpetre, and a quarter of a pound of brown sugar. Mix them well together, and rub the beef well with one-third of the mixture for three successive days. Let it lie in the liquor it makes for six days, then hang up to dry.
A large crock or jar is a good vessel to prepare the meat in before drying it.
Source: White House Cook Book ©1889
Tuesday, March 1, 2016
Honey (But not really)
Below are some recipes for making "honey" and I'm not writing about getting honey from bees. Who would have thought they came up with fake honey back in the 19th Century but they did.
Artificial Cuba Honey —Good brown sugar 10 lbs.; water 1 qt. old bee bread honey, in the comb 2 lbs; cream of tartar 1 tea-spoon; gum arabic 1 oz. oil of peppermint 3 drops; oil of rose 2 drops. Mix and boil 2 or 3 minutes and have ready 1 qt.more of water in which an egg is put well beat up; pour it in, and as it begins to boil, skim well, remove from the fire, and when a little cool, add 2 lbs. of nice bees' honey, and strain.
This is really a nice article, looking and tasting like honey. It has been shipped in large quantities under the name of "Cuba Honey." It will keep any length of time as nice and fresh as when first made, if sealed up. Some persons use a table-spoon of slippery elm bark in this amount, but it will ferment in warm weather, and rise to the «op, requiring to be skimmed off. If it is to be used only ibr eatiDg purposes, the cream-of-tartar and gum arabic may be left out, also the old bee-bread honey, substituting for it another pound of nice honey.
2. Domestic Honey.—Coffee sugar 10 lbs.; water 3 lbs.; cream of tartar 2 ozs.; strong vinegar 2 table-spoons: the white of 1 egg well beaten; bees honey 1/2 lb.; Lubin's extract of honeysuckle 10 drops.
First put the sugar and water into a suitable kettle and place upon the fire; and when luke-warm stir in the cream of tartar, and vinegar; then continue to add the egg; and when the sugar is nearly melted put in the honey and stir until it comes to a boil, take it off, let it stand a few minutes, then strain, adding the extract of honeysuckle last, let stand over night, and it is ready for use. This resembles candied honey, and is a nice thing.
3. Excellent Honey.—An article suitable for everyday use is made as follows:
Good common sugar 5 lbs.; water 1 qt.; gradually bring it to a boil, skimming well; when cool, add 1 lb. bees' honey and 4 drops of peppermint essence.
If you desire a better article, use white sugar and one half pint less water and one-half pound more honey. If it is desired to give it the ropy appearance of bees' honey, put into the water one-fourth ounce of alum.
4. Premium Honey.—Common sugar 4 lbs.; water 1 pt.; let them come to a boil, and skim; then add pulverized alum 1/4 oz.; remove from the fire and stir in cream of tartar 1/2 oz.; and water or extract of rose 1 table-spoon, and it is fit for use.
This took the premium at an Ohio State Fair. We use the recipes for common sugar and the one using Lubin's extract of honeysuckle, and desire nothing better.
Source: Dr. Chase's Recipes ©1866
Artificial Cuba Honey —Good brown sugar 10 lbs.; water 1 qt. old bee bread honey, in the comb 2 lbs; cream of tartar 1 tea-spoon; gum arabic 1 oz. oil of peppermint 3 drops; oil of rose 2 drops. Mix and boil 2 or 3 minutes and have ready 1 qt.more of water in which an egg is put well beat up; pour it in, and as it begins to boil, skim well, remove from the fire, and when a little cool, add 2 lbs. of nice bees' honey, and strain.
This is really a nice article, looking and tasting like honey. It has been shipped in large quantities under the name of "Cuba Honey." It will keep any length of time as nice and fresh as when first made, if sealed up. Some persons use a table-spoon of slippery elm bark in this amount, but it will ferment in warm weather, and rise to the «op, requiring to be skimmed off. If it is to be used only ibr eatiDg purposes, the cream-of-tartar and gum arabic may be left out, also the old bee-bread honey, substituting for it another pound of nice honey.
2. Domestic Honey.—Coffee sugar 10 lbs.; water 3 lbs.; cream of tartar 2 ozs.; strong vinegar 2 table-spoons: the white of 1 egg well beaten; bees honey 1/2 lb.; Lubin's extract of honeysuckle 10 drops.
First put the sugar and water into a suitable kettle and place upon the fire; and when luke-warm stir in the cream of tartar, and vinegar; then continue to add the egg; and when the sugar is nearly melted put in the honey and stir until it comes to a boil, take it off, let it stand a few minutes, then strain, adding the extract of honeysuckle last, let stand over night, and it is ready for use. This resembles candied honey, and is a nice thing.
3. Excellent Honey.—An article suitable for everyday use is made as follows:
Good common sugar 5 lbs.; water 1 qt.; gradually bring it to a boil, skimming well; when cool, add 1 lb. bees' honey and 4 drops of peppermint essence.
If you desire a better article, use white sugar and one half pint less water and one-half pound more honey. If it is desired to give it the ropy appearance of bees' honey, put into the water one-fourth ounce of alum.
4. Premium Honey.—Common sugar 4 lbs.; water 1 pt.; let them come to a boil, and skim; then add pulverized alum 1/4 oz.; remove from the fire and stir in cream of tartar 1/2 oz.; and water or extract of rose 1 table-spoon, and it is fit for use.
This took the premium at an Ohio State Fair. We use the recipes for common sugar and the one using Lubin's extract of honeysuckle, and desire nothing better.
Source: Dr. Chase's Recipes ©1866
Tuesday, February 23, 2016
7 ways to detect Counterfeit Money
Here's some helpful information that you can make use of in your historical novels. Counterfeiting it happened back then just as it does today.
COUNTERFEIT MONEY.—Seven Rules For Detecting.
First—Examine the form and features of all human figures on the notes. If the forms are graceful and features distinct, examine the drapery—see if the folds lie natural; and the hair of the head should be observed, and see if the fine strands can be seen.
Second.—Examine the lettering, the title of the bank, or the round handwriting on the face of the note. On all genuine bills, the work is done with great skill and perfect- ness, and there has never been a counterfeit but was defect^ ive in the lettering.
Third.—The imprint, or engraver's name. By observing the great perfection of the different company names- in the evenness and shape of the fine letters, counterfeiters never get the imprint perfect. This rule alone, if strictly observed, will detect every counterfeit note in existence.
Fourth.—The shading in the back-ground of the vignette, or over or around the letters forming the name of the bank, on a good bill is even and perfect, on a counterfeit is irregular and imperfect.
Fifth.—Examine well the figures on the other parts of the note, containing the denomination, also the letters. Exturine well the die work around the figures which stand for the denomination, to see if it is of the same character as chat which forms the ornamental work surrounding it.
Sixth.—Never take a bill that is deficient in any of the above points, and if your impression is bad when you first see it, you had better be careful how you become convinced to change your mind—whether your opinion is not altered as you become confused in looking into the texture of the workmanship of the bill.
Seventh.—Examine the name of the State, name of the bank, and name of the town where it is located. If it has been altered from a broken bank, the defects can plainly be seen, as the alteration will show that it has been stamped on.
Source: Dr. Chase's Recipes ©1866
COUNTERFEIT MONEY.—Seven Rules For Detecting.
First—Examine the form and features of all human figures on the notes. If the forms are graceful and features distinct, examine the drapery—see if the folds lie natural; and the hair of the head should be observed, and see if the fine strands can be seen.
Second.—Examine the lettering, the title of the bank, or the round handwriting on the face of the note. On all genuine bills, the work is done with great skill and perfect- ness, and there has never been a counterfeit but was defect^ ive in the lettering.
Third.—The imprint, or engraver's name. By observing the great perfection of the different company names- in the evenness and shape of the fine letters, counterfeiters never get the imprint perfect. This rule alone, if strictly observed, will detect every counterfeit note in existence.
Fourth.—The shading in the back-ground of the vignette, or over or around the letters forming the name of the bank, on a good bill is even and perfect, on a counterfeit is irregular and imperfect.
Fifth.—Examine well the figures on the other parts of the note, containing the denomination, also the letters. Exturine well the die work around the figures which stand for the denomination, to see if it is of the same character as chat which forms the ornamental work surrounding it.
Sixth.—Never take a bill that is deficient in any of the above points, and if your impression is bad when you first see it, you had better be careful how you become convinced to change your mind—whether your opinion is not altered as you become confused in looking into the texture of the workmanship of the bill.
Seventh.—Examine the name of the State, name of the bank, and name of the town where it is located. If it has been altered from a broken bank, the defects can plainly be seen, as the alteration will show that it has been stamped on.
Source: Dr. Chase's Recipes ©1866
Tuesday, February 16, 2016
Sex of Eggs
Okay this is a rather strange tidbit but in Dr. Chase's Recipes ©1866 I found this tidbit:
The Sex Op Eggs.—Mr. Genin lately addressed the Academy des Sciences, France, on the subject of the sex of eggs. He affirms that he is now able, after having studied the subject for upwards of three years, to state with assurance that the eggs containing the germ of males, have wrinkles on their smaller ends, while female eggs are emooth at the extremities.
While on the subject of eggs, you will excuse me for putting in a couple of items more which appropriately belong to other departments:
The above tidbit had me searching for more information on this during the 19th Century. I came up with this next tidbit from "The Book of the Farm" ©1890:
Sex of Eggs.—It has been said that the position of the cell that contains the air in an egg determines the sex of the chick — if the cell occupies the exact apex of the end, which is always the large end, the chick will be a male; and if on one side of the apex, it will be a female. But this cannot be accepted as being reliable, nor can any of the other numerous supposed methods for predetermining the sex of eggs.
Hens are required to lay eggs for the dealers of eggs, and young cocks are required for the dealers of fowls, and for converting into capons. Both businesses are carried on by different persons, and .hence the utility of determining the sex of eggs. M. G6nin says, that as the female skeleton of a fowl contains smooth bone, and that of the male rough, so the male egg is wrinkled at the small end, and the female is smooth at both ends. This is the result after three years' experience.
But all the indulged notions as to determining the sex of eggs, and regulating sex in breeding, have, in the case of poultry as of other animals, been proved over and over again to be fallacious. We take it that this is a law wisely kept beyond the knowledge and control of man.
The matter of sex of the egg is of no importance on a farm, as good chickens of both sexes are valuable as an article of food.
I point out these two tidbits as a reason to search further, know your time period, know what was proven to be a fallacy or just an oddity. Then have fun with it.
The Sex Op Eggs.—Mr. Genin lately addressed the Academy des Sciences, France, on the subject of the sex of eggs. He affirms that he is now able, after having studied the subject for upwards of three years, to state with assurance that the eggs containing the germ of males, have wrinkles on their smaller ends, while female eggs are emooth at the extremities.
While on the subject of eggs, you will excuse me for putting in a couple of items more which appropriately belong to other departments:
The above tidbit had me searching for more information on this during the 19th Century. I came up with this next tidbit from "The Book of the Farm" ©1890:
Sex of Eggs.—It has been said that the position of the cell that contains the air in an egg determines the sex of the chick — if the cell occupies the exact apex of the end, which is always the large end, the chick will be a male; and if on one side of the apex, it will be a female. But this cannot be accepted as being reliable, nor can any of the other numerous supposed methods for predetermining the sex of eggs.
Hens are required to lay eggs for the dealers of eggs, and young cocks are required for the dealers of fowls, and for converting into capons. Both businesses are carried on by different persons, and .hence the utility of determining the sex of eggs. M. G6nin says, that as the female skeleton of a fowl contains smooth bone, and that of the male rough, so the male egg is wrinkled at the small end, and the female is smooth at both ends. This is the result after three years' experience.
But all the indulged notions as to determining the sex of eggs, and regulating sex in breeding, have, in the case of poultry as of other animals, been proved over and over again to be fallacious. We take it that this is a law wisely kept beyond the knowledge and control of man.
The matter of sex of the egg is of no importance on a farm, as good chickens of both sexes are valuable as an article of food.
I point out these two tidbits as a reason to search further, know your time period, know what was proven to be a fallacy or just an oddity. Then have fun with it.
Wednesday, February 10, 2016
Tuesday, February 9, 2016
Burning Fluids
What type of burning fluids are your characters putting in their lamps. This tidbit is something that might not have occurred to you. We tend to think oil for lamps but that was not the only burnable fluid available to our 19th Century ancestors or characters.
BURNING FLUID.—Best In Use— Alcohol, of 98 per cent 9 pts.; good camphene 1 qt., or in these proportions. Shake briskly, and it will at once become clear, when without the shaking it would take from 6 to 7 qts. of alcohol to cut the camphene, while with the least it is the best.
These proportions make the best burning fluid which can be combined. Many put in camphor gum, alum, &c., the first to improve its burning qualities, the last to prevent explosion, but they are perfectly useless for either, from the fact that campnor adds to the smoking properties, and nothing can prevent the gas arising from any fluid that will burn, from explosion, if the fire gets to it when it is confined. The only safety is in filling lamps in day-time, or far from fire or lights; and also to have lamps which are perfect in their construction, so that no gas may leak out along the tube, or at the top of the lamp; then let who will say he can sell you a recipe for non-explosive gas or fluid, you may set him down at once for a humbug, ignoramus, or knave. Yet you may set fire to this fluid, and if not confined it will not explode, but will continue to burn until all is consumed. Families cannot make fluid any cheaper than to buy it, as the profit charged on the alcohol is usually more than tkat charged on fluid; but they will have a better article by this recipe than they can buy, unless it is made from the same, and it is best for any one, even the retailer, only to make small quantities at a time, and get the freshest camphene possible. When made in large quantities, even a barrel, unless sold out very soon, the last part is not as good as the first, owing to the separation of the camphene from the alcohol, unless frequently shaken, whilst being retailed out.
Source: Dr Chase's Recipes ©1866
BURNING FLUID.—Best In Use— Alcohol, of 98 per cent 9 pts.; good camphene 1 qt., or in these proportions. Shake briskly, and it will at once become clear, when without the shaking it would take from 6 to 7 qts. of alcohol to cut the camphene, while with the least it is the best.
These proportions make the best burning fluid which can be combined. Many put in camphor gum, alum, &c., the first to improve its burning qualities, the last to prevent explosion, but they are perfectly useless for either, from the fact that campnor adds to the smoking properties, and nothing can prevent the gas arising from any fluid that will burn, from explosion, if the fire gets to it when it is confined. The only safety is in filling lamps in day-time, or far from fire or lights; and also to have lamps which are perfect in their construction, so that no gas may leak out along the tube, or at the top of the lamp; then let who will say he can sell you a recipe for non-explosive gas or fluid, you may set him down at once for a humbug, ignoramus, or knave. Yet you may set fire to this fluid, and if not confined it will not explode, but will continue to burn until all is consumed. Families cannot make fluid any cheaper than to buy it, as the profit charged on the alcohol is usually more than tkat charged on fluid; but they will have a better article by this recipe than they can buy, unless it is made from the same, and it is best for any one, even the retailer, only to make small quantities at a time, and get the freshest camphene possible. When made in large quantities, even a barrel, unless sold out very soon, the last part is not as good as the first, owing to the separation of the camphene from the alcohol, unless frequently shaken, whilst being retailed out.
Source: Dr Chase's Recipes ©1866
Saturday, February 6, 2016
Cream Soda
This little tidbit includes for Soda Fountains as well as for home use:
Cream Soda, Using Cow's Cream, For Fountains.— Nice loaf sugar 5 lbs.; sweet rich cream 1 qt.; water 1 1/2gills; warm gradually so as not to burn; extract of vanilla 3/4 oz.; extract of nutmeg 1/4 oz.
Just bring to a boiling heat, for if you cook it any length of time it will crystalize; use four or five spoons of this syrup instead of three as in other syrups. If used without a fountain, tartaric acid one-quarter pound is added. The tendency of this syrup is to sour rather quicker than other syrups, but it is very nice while it lasts; and if only made in small quantities and kept cool, it more than pays for the trouble of making often.
Cream Soda, Without A Fountain.—Coffee sugar 4 lbs; water 3 pts.; nutmegs grated 3 in number; whites oi 10 eggs well beaten; gum arabic 1 oz.; oil of lemon 20 drops; or extract equal to that amount. By using oils of other fruits you can make as many flavors from this as you desire, or prefer.
Mix all and place over a gentle fire, and stir well about thirty minutes; remove from the fire, strain, and divide into two parts; into one-half put supercarbonate of soda eight ounces; and into the other half put six ounces tartaric acid; shake well, and when cold they are ready to use, by oouring three or four spoons, from both parts, into separate glasses which are one-third full of cool water; stir each and pour together, and you have as nice a glass of cream soda as was ever drank, which can also be drank at your leisure, as the gum and eggs hold the gas.
Source: Dr. Chase's Recipes ©1866
Cream Soda, Using Cow's Cream, For Fountains.— Nice loaf sugar 5 lbs.; sweet rich cream 1 qt.; water 1 1/2gills; warm gradually so as not to burn; extract of vanilla 3/4 oz.; extract of nutmeg 1/4 oz.
Just bring to a boiling heat, for if you cook it any length of time it will crystalize; use four or five spoons of this syrup instead of three as in other syrups. If used without a fountain, tartaric acid one-quarter pound is added. The tendency of this syrup is to sour rather quicker than other syrups, but it is very nice while it lasts; and if only made in small quantities and kept cool, it more than pays for the trouble of making often.
Cream Soda, Without A Fountain.—Coffee sugar 4 lbs; water 3 pts.; nutmegs grated 3 in number; whites oi 10 eggs well beaten; gum arabic 1 oz.; oil of lemon 20 drops; or extract equal to that amount. By using oils of other fruits you can make as many flavors from this as you desire, or prefer.
Mix all and place over a gentle fire, and stir well about thirty minutes; remove from the fire, strain, and divide into two parts; into one-half put supercarbonate of soda eight ounces; and into the other half put six ounces tartaric acid; shake well, and when cold they are ready to use, by oouring three or four spoons, from both parts, into separate glasses which are one-third full of cool water; stir each and pour together, and you have as nice a glass of cream soda as was ever drank, which can also be drank at your leisure, as the gum and eggs hold the gas.
Source: Dr. Chase's Recipes ©1866
Wednesday, February 3, 2016
Tuesday, December 29, 2015
Typhus Fever Cleansing of a house and room to prevent infection
Below are 5 suggestions to help rid the house of Typhus Fever. These come from Dr. Chase's Recipes or Information for Everyone ©1866
TYPHUS FEVER.—To Prevent Infection.—Take nitre, (salt petre,) pulverized, £ oz.; oil of vitriol £ oz.; put the nitre into a tea-cup and set it on a red hot shovel, adding the vitriol one-sixth at a time, stirring it with a pipe stem; avoiding the fumes as they rise from the cup; no danger, however, in breathing the air of the room.
The above amount is sufficient for a room twelve by sixteen feet, and less or more according to the size of other rooms. Dr. J. C. Smith, of London, is said to have received from Parliament £5000 for making this recipe public.
2. To purify the air from noxious effluvia in sick rooms, not of a contagious character, simply slice three or four onions, place them on a plate upon the floor, changing them three or four times in the twenty-four hours.
3. Disinfectant, For Rooms, Meat, And Fish.—Common salt i a tea-cup; sulphuric acid 2 or 8 oz.; put about i oz. of of the acid upon the salt at a time, every 15 minutes, stirring, until all put on:
Which will purify a large room; and for meat or fish, hang them up in a box having a cover to it, and thus confine the gas, and tainted articles of food will soon be purified, by the same operation. And notwithstanding so much was paid for the "Smith Disinfectant," the above will be found equally good.
4. Coffee, dried and pulverized, then a little of it sprinkled upon a hot shovel, will, in a very few minutes, clear a room of all impure effluvia, and especially of an animal character.
5. Chloride Of Lime—Half a saucer of it, moistened with an equal mixture of good vinegar and water, a few drops at a time only, will purify a sick-room in a few minutes.
TYPHUS FEVER.—To Prevent Infection.—Take nitre, (salt petre,) pulverized, £ oz.; oil of vitriol £ oz.; put the nitre into a tea-cup and set it on a red hot shovel, adding the vitriol one-sixth at a time, stirring it with a pipe stem; avoiding the fumes as they rise from the cup; no danger, however, in breathing the air of the room.
The above amount is sufficient for a room twelve by sixteen feet, and less or more according to the size of other rooms. Dr. J. C. Smith, of London, is said to have received from Parliament £5000 for making this recipe public.
2. To purify the air from noxious effluvia in sick rooms, not of a contagious character, simply slice three or four onions, place them on a plate upon the floor, changing them three or four times in the twenty-four hours.
3. Disinfectant, For Rooms, Meat, And Fish.—Common salt i a tea-cup; sulphuric acid 2 or 8 oz.; put about i oz. of of the acid upon the salt at a time, every 15 minutes, stirring, until all put on:
Which will purify a large room; and for meat or fish, hang them up in a box having a cover to it, and thus confine the gas, and tainted articles of food will soon be purified, by the same operation. And notwithstanding so much was paid for the "Smith Disinfectant," the above will be found equally good.
4. Coffee, dried and pulverized, then a little of it sprinkled upon a hot shovel, will, in a very few minutes, clear a room of all impure effluvia, and especially of an animal character.
5. Chloride Of Lime—Half a saucer of it, moistened with an equal mixture of good vinegar and water, a few drops at a time only, will purify a sick-room in a few minutes.
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