Mourning Clothing

This is a repost from an original post in Aug. 2011

Having loss my son a few weeks back this topic has come up a fair amount in my mind. So, I thought I'd share some mourning customs and clothing as presented as social etiquette during the 19th century. Today's tidbit comes from Collier's cyclopedia of commercial and social information ©1882

The mourning for parents ranks next to that of widows; for children by then parents, and for parents by their children, these being ol course identical in degree. It lasts in either case twelve months—six months in crape trimmings, three in plain black, and three in half-mourning. It is, however better taste to continue the plain black to the end of the year and wear half-mourning for three months longer. Materials for first six months, either Paramatta, Barathea, or any of the black corded stuffs such as Janus cord, about thirty-eight inches wide; Henrietta cord about same price and width. Such dresses would be trimmed with two deep tucks of crape, either Albert or rainproof, would be made plainly the body trimmed with .rape, and sleeves with deep crape cuffs Col lars and cuffs, to be worn during the first mourning would be made of muslin or lawn, with three or foui tiny lucks m distinction to widows' with the wide, deep hem. Pocket hand kerchiefs would be bordered with black. Black hose, silk or Balbriggan, would be worn, and black kid gloves. For out. door wear either a dolman mantle would be wom or a paletdt, either of silk or Paramatta, but in either case trimmed with crape. Crape bonnets or hats , if lor young children, all crape for bonnets, hats, silk and crape; feathers (black; could be wom, and a jet ciasp or arrow in the bonnet, but no othei kind of jewelry is admissible but jet—that is, as long as crape is worn. Black furs, such as astrachan, may be worn, or very dark sealskin or black sealskin cloth, now so fashionable, but no light furs of any sort. Silk dresses can be worn, crape trimmed aftei the first three months if preferred, and if expense be no obiect the lawn-tucked collars and cuffs would be worn with them. At the end of the six months crape can be put aside, and plain black, such as cashmere, worn, trimmed with silk if liked, but not satin, for that is not a mourning material, and is therefore never worn by those who strictly attend to mourning etiquette. With plain black, black gloves and hose would of course be worn, and jet, no gold or silver jewelry for at least nine months after the com mencement of mourning , then, if the time expires in the twelve months, gray gloves might be worn, and gray ribbons, lace or plain linen collar and cuffs take the place of ihe lawn or muslin, and gray feathers might lighten the hat or bonnet or reversible black and gray strings.

Many persons think it is in better taste not to commence half-mourning until after the expiration of a year, extent in the case of young children, who are rarely kept in mourning beyond the twelve months.

A wife would wear just the same mourning for her husband'9 relations as for her own ; thus, if her husband's mother died, the would wear mourning as deep as if for her own mother.

Boston Symphony Orchestra

As many of you know I was born and raised in Massachusetts, in fact, my family heritage on my father's side always lived in Massachusetts until recent years. So, the Boston Symphony and the Boston Pops were a part of our lives. I've never had the pleasure of attending a Boston Symphony or Pops concert in person but I'd love to one day.

The Boston Symphony Orchestra is the topic of today's tidbit. Their first season was 1881-1882. A series of 20 concerts were played on Saturday evenings and you could purchase season tickets or individual ones. My writer's imagination kicked into high gear picturing my characters attending a concert, meeting at a concert, stumbling into trouble at a concert and on and on my imagination goes. You can read about this historical season At the BSO's website. On their site they also include programs from the season. It's a great resource. I can imagine many cities having similar orchestras.

Let your writer imagination run wild. Post some of your suggestions in the comments section.

Point of Reference: The Boston Symphony was not the first to give concert series in Boston. An example is the Harvard Symphony that started giving concerts in Boston in 1865.

Cattle Brands on the Cherokee Strip

I came across this book with brands of cattle in the Cherokee Strip area and thought how useful it might be if you're setting a story in that area. Brand book containing the brands of the Cherokee Strip published in 1882.

If you scroll down to the index it has the brands with the name of the ranch to the right of it as well as the page where you can find additional information about the ranch and where they placed their brands. These brands were not just for cattle but horses as well.

Lightning Jars

These came into existence in 1882. The inventor was Henry William Putnam. The fruit jar had a glass lid that had a clamp to hold the lid in place. One of the reasons they became popular was because no metal contacted the food. The metal clamps made it easier to seal and remove thus the name "Lightning".

Parsley, Medical Use

I believe all of us are aware of this herb that is used in cooking but did you know that the roots could be used for medicine? In the Indian Household Medicine Guide ©1883, J.I. Lighthall wrote:

Petroselinum Sativum.
Parsley.
This is a garden plant, and the tops are used in cooking and flavoring different dishes, especially soups and dressing. The root is a splendid cooling diuretic, and should be given in all kidney troubles in low forms of fever. I have known it to succeed when more noted remedies failed. The only way I give it is in the form of a tea made from the green root, to be drank freely.

Household Medicine and sick-room © 1882 says:
Parsley.—The root and seeds of the garden parsley are unjustly neglected as domestic remedies. The dried roots taken in the form of a strong Infusion are useful diuretics in dropsies. The seeds, in doses of fifteen grains, simply bruised and swallowed, produce an effect somewhat similar to that of a glass of brandy-and-water. They cure intermittent*: in one experiment eighty-six cases of ague out of a hundred were so cured. Should be taken every four hours, in the intervals of the fits. The bruised leaves used as a poultice cure the bites or stings of insects. The seeds or leaves made into an ointment destroy vermin in the hair. A substance is separated from the seeds having the appearance of a fixed oil, and termed Apiol. It is a peculiar non-nitrogenous principle, powerfully antiperiodic, and is said to be almost equal to quinine The dose is five to seven drops every four hours. A saturated tincture of the seeds has proved a powerful remedy for intermittents.

Winners of the League Base-Ball Championship

From Houghtaling's Handbook ©1887

Winners of the League Base-Ball Championship
The following were the winners of the championship of the National Base-Ball League for the years named below:
1886 - Chicago Club. . . Won 90 games, and lost 34 games
1885 - Chicago Club . . . Won 87 games and lost 25 games
1884 - Providence Club . . . Won 84 games and lost 28 games
1883 - Boston Club . . . Won 63 games and lost 35 games
1882 - Chicago Club . . . Won 55 games and lost 29 games
1881 - Chicago Club . . . Won 56 games and lost 28 games
1880 - Chicago Club . . . Won 67 games and lost 17 games
1879 - Providence Club . . . Won 59 games and lost 25 games
1878 - Boston Club . . . Won 41 games and lost 19 games
1877 - Boston Club . . . Won 31 games and lost 17 games
1876 - Chicago Club . . . Won 52 games and lost 14 games
(end quote)

1876 was the first year of the National League of Professional Baseball. It organized with 8 teams. The Boston Red Stockings (also called the Boston Red Caps), Chicago White Stockings, Cincinnati Red Legs (also called the Cincinnati Red Stockings), Hartford Dark Blues, Louisville Grays, Philadelphia Athletics, Brooklyn Mutuals (also called the New York Mutuals) & St. Louis Browns (also called the St. Louis Brown Stockings). There were 70 games for the season starting April 22nd and ending Oct. 21st.

For more information about this first year of professional baseball check out The Baseball Almanac

19th Century Bedroom Furnishings Part 2

The first tidbit comes from a lecture given in England in 1880 by Edward Edis. The second comes from Ward & Lock's Home Book. In the book he continues on for an entire chapter so I've given a link.

The blinds of a bedroom should be of some soft toned colour, and not the vivid staring white and yellow to which we are so accustomed. I need not dwell further on this portion of my subject, as the cheerfulness and comfort of a bedroom is quite as much dependent upon the graceful taste of arrangement of the ladies of the house, as upon the upholstery and fittings with which it is furnished. There are innumerable small items of furniture which all tend to make up the general requirements of a bedroom, which with care and thought can be provided at comparatively small cost, in the way of hanging-glasses, jewel boxes, boot racks, bonnet cases, cases for medicine bottles, without lumbering up the generally small floor surface of the room, provided that they be thought of and arranged for, before any set or so-called ‘suite' of bedroom furniture is bought; for a few pounds all these necessary arrangements can be provided in suitable and useful form, in place of the usually extravagant, and ofttimes comparatively useless, articles of furniture which are generally considered necessary in the bedrooms of the house : chests of drawers should be so arranged that the lower portion may be adapted for clothes, while small flanking cup. boards may be provided on each side for the hundred and one small articles which are necessary in an ordinary family household, and which all help to make up the harmonious whole of a well-furnished house. In a small room the chest of drawers may be so fitted up that it shall do duty for a dressing-table with lookingglass complete, or the recesses formed by the chimney breast may be fitted with shelves and drawers, bonnet boxes and boot racks, all combined, with hanging spaces for clothes, at a much smaller expense than that of the elaborate and heavy articles which are sold as ‘wardrobes, and which all take up too much of the wall and floor space, in the usually cramped area, of an ordinary bedroom. The mantel-pieces may be fitted up with cupboards, shelves, and glasses, so as to add materially to the artistic character, as well as the general comfort of the room; and at a small expense a plain writing shelf or table may be attached to any of these pieces of furniture, and made to fold up or slide in, when not absolutely required for use. Often a bedroom is made to do duty as a private sitting-room as well, and too much care cannot therefore be taken to design the general furniture so that it may combine the necessary requirements for general use, as well as for the storage of clothes and linen, and so that the greatest amount of accommodation may be obtained in the smallest amount of space. Hanging book-shelves with cupboards on each side for medicine bottles are invaluable in a bedroom. I cannot too strongly advocate the desirability of all furniture being designed, in the general rooms of a town house, so that it may afford accommodation for the numerous requirements to which it has to be put, and cannot too strongly protest against the generally inconsistent and in great part useless articles, which are provided nowadays by ordinary upholsterers in the so-called ‘suite' of bedroom furniture. In my next and last lecture I shall endeavour to treat generally of the every-day articles of domestic USe. In decoration and furniture, it is above all desirable to avoid all eccentricity and seeming quaintness in design, with no particular use or object, to take care that everything in furniture shall be strong, serviceable, and fitting for its particular use, and to remember that elaboration and expense are really as unnecessary elements in the furnishing of a house as in dress and decorative.
Source: Decoration & Furniture of Town Houses ©1881

ROOMS USED BY NIGHT.
Bedroom Furniture—Necessary Articles—Bedsteads-Mattresses and BeddingBed Furniture-Bedclothes-The Washstand—Toilet Tables—The Toilet Glass —The Cheval Glass—Chests of Drawers^The Linen Press—The Lady s Wardrobe—The Gentleman's Wardrobe—Nfinor Articles—Invalid Furniture—lne Dressing Room—An Objectionable Habit—The Home Hospital.
268. BEDROOM FURNITURE. In treating of rooms used by day, it was necessary to regard each kind of reception room, and the furniture it contains, according to the use to which it is put. There will, however, be no occasion to do this in the present chapter, for the bedroom is the only kind of room used by night, and although bedrooms differ greatly from one another, according to the manner in which they are furnished, yet there is but one set of articles common to all, more or less of which articles are used. We will, therefore, glance briefly at the furniture that may be found in any well-appointed bedroom and its adjunct, the dressing-room.
260. DRESSING-ROOMS AND BEDROOMS. It is desirable that a dressing-room and bedroom should be immediately contiguous, and that there should be access to the dressing-room from the bedroom without having to go from the bedroom on to a landing to reach the dressing-room. In case of a married couple, for whom a dressingroom is far more necessary than for single persons, the dressing-room should be furnished with a view to the husband's use, and the bedroom for the special requirements of the wife. When the dressing-room is large enough, it should contain a bedstead at least 6 feet long by 2 feet 6 inches wide, which will prove of service on many occasions.

NECESSARY ARTICLES. In speaking of the furniture of the bedroom, we must notice the following articles:
1. The Bedstead, and its Palliasse, Mattresses, Bed, Bolster, and
Pillows.
2. The Bedclothes, consisting of Pillow and Bolster-cases, Sheets,
Blankets, Quilts, or Counterpanes.
3. The Washstand and its fittings, including Toilet-service, Toilet
pail, Can and Foot-bath, Water-bottle and Tumbler, Willow splash screen, frc.
4. The Toilet-table, with Toilet-glass, Toilet-cover, and Toilet-tailt
set.
5. The Cheval Glass.
6. Chest of Drawers.
7. Lady's Wardrobe.
8. Bed-steps and Pedestal.
9. Towel Horse.
10. Bed Table.
In speaking of the furniture of the dressing-room, we need not notice more than —
1. The Gentleman's Wardrobe.
2. The Boot and Shoe Horse. All other articles that would find a place there having been mentioned with reference to the bedroom, we must then proceed to say a few words on— ,
Appliances for Hanging Clothes.
Source: Ward and Lock's Home Book ©18
The chapter continues, here's a link Chapter 14

The Sitting Room

This short tidbit gives a bit of insight into a very popular room during the 19th Century.

The Sitting-room.
IN almost every house there is a room, generally a small one, that is made to serve as substitute, at one time or another, for all the other reception rooms; in the class of house under notice, it is sometimes termed a morningroom, sometimes a breakfast-room, but we have preferred to adopt the term sitting-room.
By reason of its varied uses, we shall adopt a suite of furniture something after the style used for a dining-room, but lighter in construction, in order that it may not appear disproportionate in its place. The wood we would suggest for this suite is walnut, or some wood of a similar tone. The upholstering may be in tapestry or velvet, the colours of which will be best regulated by a careful consideration of the amount of wear to which it is likely to be exposed.
The furniture designed for this room will also be well adapted for cottages, where space is often the main consideration.

In Figs. 1 and 2 are shown the front and side elevations of the fireplace, with overmantel. It will be noted that we have endeavoured to meet the views of those who like a large surface of mirror, while we have at the same time paid due regard to construction and proportion. The panels in the sides may either be of wood or of plate looking-glass. The other details will be given in enlarged drawings in our next paper. The upper portion, it will be seen, is arranged as a shelf for the display of potteries and trophies.
The woodwork, as in our previous designs for the like purpose, given in this series, is protected by a marble interior, the same material being used for the kerb fender indicated in the sketch. The grate shown is one having a straight front, with painted tiles in monochrome, either blue, marone, or sepia, on an ivory ground. Some persons may possibly take exception to the subjects; these may, however, be varied at the option of the purchaser, although, without specially defending the practice of using such subjects for fireplace decoration as are here shown, we cannot see that they are in any respect less suitable to the purpose than some of the half-clad classical figures adopted by many of our leading artists.

Cabbages

Folks in Florida have been harvesting cabbages for a month now. I recently sent my husband to the farmer's market to pick up a head of cabbage to make stuffed cabbage. He mis-understood and brought home 4 huge heads of cabbage, needless to say we've been cooking cabbage in all sorts of ways.

Below are some 19th Century Recipes for various cabbage dishes.
CABBAGE.
Boiled Cabbage.— Carefully clean a nice head of cabbage, divide into halves, and with a sharp knife slice very thin, cutting from the center of the head outward. Put into boiling water, cover closely, and cook rapidly until tender; then turn into a colander and drain, pressing gently with the back of a plate. Return to the kettle, add salt to taste, and sufficient sweet cream to moisten well; heat through if at all cooled ; dish, and serve at once. If preferred, the cream may be omitted, and the cabbage served with tomato sauce or lemon juice as a dressing.

Cabbage and Tomatoes.— Boil finely chopped cabbage in as little water as possible. When tender, add half the quantity of hot stewed tomatoes, boil together for a few minutes, being careful to avoid burning; season with salt if desired, and serve. If preferred, a little sweet cream may be added just before servingCabbage Celery.— A firm, crisp head of cabbage cut in slices half an inch or an inch thick, and then again into pieces four or five inches long and two or three inches wide, makes quite an appetizing substitute for celery.

Cabbage Hash.— Chop fine, equal parts of cold boiled potatoes and boiled cabbage, and season with salt. To each quart of the mixture add one half or three fourths of a cup of thin cream; mix well and boil till well heated.

Chopped Cabbage, or Cabbage Salad.— Take one pint of finely chopped raw cabbage; pour over it a dressing made of three tablespoonfuls of lemon juice, two tablespoonfuls of sugar, and a half cup of whipped cream, thoroughly beaten together in the order named; or serve with sugar and diluted lemon juice. Strained tomatoes with a tablespoonful of lemon juice to the pint also makes a nice dressing.

Mashed Cabbage.— Out a fine head of cabbage into quarters, and cook until tender. A half hour before it is done, drop in three good-sized potatoes. When done, take all up in a colander together, press out the water, and mash very fine. Season with cream, and salt if desired.

Stewed Cabbage.— Chop nice cabbage quite fine, and put it into boiling water, letting it boil twenty minutes. Turn into a colander and drain thoroughly; return to the kettle, cover with milk, and boil till perfectly tender; season with salt and cream to taste. The beaten yolk of an egg, stirred in with the cream, is considered an improvement by some.
Source: Every-day Dishes and Every-day work ©1897

Stuffed cabbage.
Choose a large white, close cabbage, take off all the hard green outside leaves, and blanch it; cut out the heart and press between two plates to squeeze out all water. Make a stuffing with finely-minced sausage-meat, four yolks of egg and marrow, mix well together and spread a teaspoonful between each leaf, tie up the cabbage to its original shape—be careful not to cut the leaves with the string—simmer over a slow fire in stock, season with a bouquet of herbs, onions, a saveloy, carrots, a pinch of grated nutmeg, salt, and black pepper, cover the whole with slices of bacon ; shake the stew-pan occasionally so that the cabbage may not stick to the bottom and get burnt. Dish up the cabbage after cutting off the string. Pass the sauce through a tammy, clear of all grease, stir in a little thin browning, and pour over the cabbage.
Source 366 menus and 1200 recipes ©1882

CABBAGE
Mrs. E. F. Spence. One cabbage; boiling salted water; 1/8 teaspoon soda. The cabbage should be fine and of medium size. Wash, quarter, and put it in a kettle of boiling salted water to which the soda has been added. Boil twenty minutes. Serve hot.
LADIES CABBAGE
C. S.
Cabbage; 4 tablespoons cream; I tablespoon butter; 1 egg; pepper; salt.
Select medium sized heads that feel firm and heavy. Shave the cabbage very fine, and let it lie in cold salted water one hour. Drain and place in plenty of boiling water. Cook rapidly for ten minutes, then drain; add butter, pepper, salt and cream. Simmer until it is nearly dry. Just before serving, beat the egg to a cream; stir quickly into the cabbage; boil up once and serve.
HOT CABBAGE SLAW
Mrs. H. L. Parlee.
One cabbage; I teacup milk; 1/2 teacup vinegar; butter the size of a walnut, pepper; salt.
Slice the cabbage fine; put it in a sauce pan with the milk, butter, salt and pepper. When it boils, add the vinegar; cover closely and cook slowly until done. Less vinegar may be used or none at all. If cream is used instead of milk, less butter is required.
STUFFED CABBAGE
Mrs. M. J. Danison.
One head cabbage; some cooked veal or chicken; 1 egg, (yolk); salt; pepper.
Choose a large fresh cabbage and cut out the heart; fill with the veal, or chicken chopped very fine, highly seasoned, and rolled into balls with yolk of egg. Then tie the cabbage firmly together, (some tie a cloth around it, ) and boil in a covered kettle two hours.
Source: How We Cook in Los Angeles ©1894

Spring Planting or Fall Planting

Having grown up in the North, springtime is planting time for me. However, since I've been living in Florida for over 20 years, I've learned that planting season tends to be more common in the fall and late winter. You might be wondering why I've posted this tidbit however I'll share a couple of my reasons:
Is your character a farmer?
Is your character having bad fortune? And if so, could planting at the wrong time give him or her problems?
Is a secondary character an older individual who loves to share their knowledge with younger folks?
The opportunities to use some of these tidbits are endless and adds just a touch of color to your historical novel that you might have missed. Anyway, Enjoy!

Here's a little tidbit from Collier's Cyclopedia of Commercial and Social Information ©1882:
In northern locations spring planting is preferable Southward, fall is preferred No certain line of division can be fixed ; but we should say that, as a rule, all south of the latitude of Phila delphia, Columbus in Ohio, and Quincy in Illinois, may most safely plant in the fall, while north of those points it is better to plant in the spring.
Note: This is in reference to fruit tree planting.

If spring planting is preferred, begin as soon as the frost is out deep enough and the ground in good working condition. One year with another, the entire month of May can be devoted to planting forest trees in Minnesota or Dakota. The advantages of fall planting are chiefly in the fact that the ground becomes firmly packed among the roots of the young tree to the exclusion of the air, and that it is in better position to appropriate the moisture resulting from the winter snows and early spring rains, getting thereby such a "send-off " as to enable the young tree to successfully go through a dry spell that would be very damaging, if not fatal, to spring planting. Such dry spells do occasionally prevail all over tbe Northwest about planting time, and hang on unmercifully. On the other hand, an open winter with frequent or occasional thawing and freezing, occasionally proves fatal to fall planting, the action of frost heaving the fall-planted seedling or cutting nearly or quite out of the ground. Where well rooted young trees are used we overcome this trouble to a great extent by deep planting. While spring planting escapes this danger, it is in bad shape to withstand a protracted drowth, and right there is where fall planting has the inside track. But should your spring planting be followed up by occasional timely showers, the newly planted trees grow right along with great vigor. The tree planter must take his chances. I have for many years planted largely both spring and fall, and my experience does not yet justify me in bringing in a verdict either way. In fact I consider it one of the least important of the many conundrums of forestry.
Source: The Minnesota Horticulturist: Annual Report ©1883

NOW is the time at the north to prepare for planting trees next spring, for all planting north of the latitude of this city is most safely done at that time of the year. Furthensouth the long autumn enables trees planted when the leaves are ripe to push out new roots and establish themselves before the ground freezes. Where cold weather follows close after the early frosts a tree planted in the autumn has no opportunity to develop new roots and, therefore, loses not only the benefit it would have obtained in a more temperate climate in an early and vigorous spring growth, but is forced to go through the winter without the aid of roots in actual working condition. Trees planted in cold countries at this season of the year do not necessarily die, but they are more apt to suffer than those planted in the spring; they are often blown over unless carefully staked. and they are frequently upheaved by the frost or thrown out of the ground entirely. For all operations, however, connected with the planting and care of trees, except the mere setting in the ground, the autumn is the best time. At this season planting plans should be made and stock selected, and the ground should be made ready to receive the trees as soon as the frost leaves it in the spring. Spring in this latitude is so short and the rush of spring work is so pressing that it is impossible to properly prepare ground for planting unless _tt is done during the previous summer or autumn. This 18 the time, therefore, when northern planters should decide what trees they want to use next spring and where they will plant them ; it is the time to select and order nursery stock, and here it may be said that better results are always obtained by personal inspection and selection by the purchaser than by leaving it to the seller to fill his orders. If the planter has facilities for protecting plants through the winter in a cold cellar or pit, it is better to obtain them now than in the spring, when nurserymen are crowded with orders‘and too busy to devote proper time and attention to digging and packing their trees. The ground being prepared, the exact position of each plant determined on and the plants on hand, the mere operation of setting them in the ground takes but a short'time.
Source: Garden and Forest ©1897

Kinds of Fish off Puget Sound and other Pacific Coast regions

Kinds of Fish.—The varieties of fish most valuable in the commerce and industry of the Atlantic are caught also in the waters of our coast. The cod, herring, mackerel, halibut, flounder, sardine, anchovy, and turbot are found in both oceans. The report of the fish commissioners of California, for I880, gives the number of species of fish then known in the waters at 280, 25 of which are fresh, and the remainder salt-water fish. Thirtyfour additional species, including I1 river fish, are found in Oregon and Washington. ' These are all indigenous species. As no thorough search has been made between Tomales Bay and the mouth of the Columbia, it is almost certain that other varieties will be discovered from year to year. Of the 21 flat-fishes on the coast, I9 are found on the shores or bays of California.
Our coast has different fish districts, well defined in geographical limits, and different in many of their occupants. One extends from Point Conception northward to Monterey ; the second, from Monterey to Puget Sound, and the third from that point onward toward the Arctic. The bay of Monterey is the middle ground, where fishes from north and south meet It has about I30 species, and San Francisco harbor has the same number. Santa Barbara has but 95 species, as the rock-cod and flounder do not go so far south. In Puget Sound there are 90 species, all of which belong to the northern varieties. In San Francisco Bay, and its tributary rivers, there are taken annually about 4,000 tons of fish.
The large-eyed flounder (Hippaglossoides fordani) is plentiful in our fishmarkets all the year round. Professor JORDAN estimates the catch of this fish by Chinamen, in the single harbor of Monterey, at 500 pounds per day. Of the chiridae, the painted sea-trout (C/zirus pic us) is common in our northem latitudes, and is found occasionally in the San Francisco market. The c/zz'ru.r guttatus, a species of sea-trout common in the'bays of San Francisco and Monterey, is plentiful in the markets the year round.
The cod-fish proper does not belong to the fauna of California. Dr. BEAN, who recently investigated the fish systems of the Alaskan waters, is of opinion that the cod-fish of Alaska is identical with the Gadus morr/ma, or true cod-fish. The entire quantity of fresh cod brought to San Francisco, packed in ice, does not exceed 300 tons, in the season of 3 months. The green cod, is noted as one of the most rapacious of fishes, coming in this characteristic into close competition with the shark. Lurking among the rocks, it lies in wait for rock-fish, and is often captured on the same hook with the fish at which it bites. It is valuable as a food fish and sometimes attains a weight of 50 or 60 pounds.
Red rock-cod sometimes weigh 25 pounds, and blue rock-fish 50 pounds. These are of extreme size. The barracuda season lasts from the beginning of March to _Iune. In shape and habit this fish strongly resembles the fresh-water pike, being long and slim and exceedingly voracious. It feeds on small fish, such as smelt and herring, and is found in schools among the kelp. It is caught with trawl-lines near Santa Cruz and 1\Ionterey. The barracuda of the Atlantic Ocean is considered unfit for food, while its Pacific relative is esteemed one of the most delicate of table fish. Large quantities are caught in San Diego Harbor. The hook is baited with a white or red rag, at which the fish bites greedily. It is abundant in summer at a distance of 3 or 4 miles from the heads of San Francisco Harbor, and thence southward. In other seasons the young are sometimes taken in seines. The largest size is about 12 pounds.
Of the 27 known species of rock-cod, all except 2 are to be found in the harbor of Monterey. The one most common in the Bay of San Francisco, the wharf rock-fish (Seba.rtic/it/zys auriculatus), the only kind found in shallow bays, sometimes attains a weight of 3 pounds. Those caught by hook and line, from wharf or shore, average about half a pound. The largest of all the species is the large, red rock-fish (Seéastzk/It/zy.r ruber), exceeding in some instances a weight of 12 pounds. Large quantities of the dark greenish rock-fish (Afro:/z're1z.r), taken by Chinamen at the Santa Barbara Islands, are salted, dried, and sent to China. It is the opinion of many fishermen that the Chinamen are rapidly reducing the Californian supply of food fish. Already white fishermen have to go outside the heads for fish which but a few years ago were plentiful in San Francisco Bay. The long flats near the Oakland and Alameda shores are often swept by Asiatic fishermen, who operate with both the seine and stationary net. Inside of Cape Scott, the north-west extremity of Vancouver Island, there is an extensive bank, where rock-cod are taken in immense quantity, and of the largest size. On the shore, near to this bank, a Chinese colony is engaged in the systematic prosecution of the business. In the vicinity of Burrard Inlet, a productive fishing-ground, immense quantities of smelt, an excellent and favorite table fish, are dried, packed, and shipped by Chinese fisherman to their fellow-Mongols in Victoria and in San Francisco. One redeeming feature in the presence of the yellow fishermen in our community is, that they eat up young shark, and esteem as a delicacy the fin of the larger species in a raw or cooked state, or in soup, when it can be spared from drying purposes.
The greater bulk of the fish sent from Tomales and Monterey bays to San Francisco are black bass, black rock-cod, and other species of the sco/;/>mzz'a’w. On account of their dark color they are very slow of sale, and sometimes can not find purchasers, even at a cent a pound. Rock-fish are omnivorous, with a preference for their smaller kindred. They spawn early in the spring. The pompino is found along the entire Pacific Coast. It is a small fish, juicy and fat, and readily brings 25 to 50 cents, selling occasionally as high as $1.50 per pound.
Of the carangida, the horse mackerel (T me/zuras saurus) is taken in large quantity off this coast, and salted for bait. The pilot-fish also belongs to this subdivision of the scombridaa, or old mackerel family. Of the true scombridae, the Spanish mackerel occurs from Monterey southward, and is occasionally found in the San Francisco markets. The largest specimen is I4 inches long. The bonito, or skip-jack, taken in great quantity ofl" Santa Barbara and San Diego, has a coarse, unwholesome meat when eaten fresh, but when salted and dried, it sells for twenty-five cents a pound. Its average weight is about I2 pounds. The albicore bites greedily at a white rag, and affords excellent sport in the bay of Monterey, being caught by trawllines.
Of the sciaenidx, the sea-bass, and the 2 species of so-called kingfish (Geizyonenzus lineatus and Scrip/zus politus), are highly esteemed as table fish. The 2 latter descriptions are seldom more than IO inches in length, of delicate flavor, and of course are different from the king-fish previously mentioned. The white sea-bass is abundant, and instances are not uncommon in our markets of fish weighing 50 or 60 pounds. The sucker bass is found on sandy shores south of Santa Barbara, and the roncador, of about 3 pounds weight, has the same range. Many varieties of the perch family are used only for bait, but the blue-fish, moon-fish, rockbass, johnny Verde, and kelp salmon, all of which belong to this family, rank high as pan-fish. The Jew-fish, or black sea-bass, is palatable, and reaches a weight of 500 pounds. All the species of perch range southward from the Islands of Santa Barbara. Mullet, common in the harbor of San Diego, does not exceed a length of I 5 inches. The flying-fish, frequently seen off the southern part of our coast from Santa Barbara to Central America, reaches a weight of ‘a pound and a half or more, and is excellent for the table. '
Of the apodes, or fishes without ventral fins, the conger eel is plentiful among the rocks near the tide mark of San Diego harbor. Though very pugnacious, it is sometimes taken by hand. Its extreme weight is about 20 pounds. Its skin is said to be poisonous, but the flesh resembles that of the fresh-water eel.
The sting-ray, or stingaree, which is common along the coast, is very destructive to oysters, crustacea, and fish. The Chinese occasionally use it, when dried, as a food fish. It sometimes attains a weight of 75 pounds. The sea vampire, or devil-fish, occurs on our coast, and is not rare in the Mexican waters. The largest known specimens measure 15 to 20 feet in width. The Raia binaculata is common in our local markets, and sells as a food fish chiefly to the French. The largest of the rays is the Raia Coaperi, which sometimes attains a length of 5 or 6 feet.
Salrnon Fam1ly.—In the report of W. G. MORRIS, on the resources of Alaska Territory, it is stated that the yield of salmon is almost beyond belief. Sixty thousand Indians and several thousand Aleuts and Eskimos depend mainly on dried salmon for their winter sustenance. During the running season in the vicinity of Klawock, the marine waters are actually blaek_ with them. They are caught with seines, and are of larger size than the Columbia River salmon. Those taken at Cook's inlet average 60 pounds, and not unfrequently run up to double that weight. Two of the largest fill a barrel. In Alaska, as in British Columbia, the fish can be obtained in vast quantity at the expense of native labor, and, after paying for salt or vinegar, barrels, and freight, return a good profit when shipped to Australian or European markets. The salmon being mainly a river fish, will be mentioned again in the next chapter. The salmon-trout is abundant in Puget Sound, where it is taken by seine-fishing up to a weight of 3 pounds. The surf-smelt, which also belongs to the salmonidze, is very plentiful in the same neighborhood.
The oolikon (the name is also spelled “oolahan,” and “eulachon"), or candlefish, a delicious table fish when taken in its best condition, is not ‘abundant south of latitude 49°. After being smoked and dried, it should be prepared for table by the steaming or broiling process, and is then equal to the finest qualities of salt fish. It is pickled and shipped to San Francisco, where it finds a ready sale. W’hen canned it is sold as Columbia River sardine, or as Spanish mackerel. Its size never exceeds 12 inches, and it is most abundant in the Columbia, Fraser, and Nass rivers. The fish is very juicy and fat, and contains an oil said to be superior to codliver oil for medicinal purposes. Among the Alaskan'natives it is used by the Indians as a substitute for candles, burning with a clear, bright flame when lighted and set up endwise. On the Nass River, where the oolikon is most abundant, 10,000 gallons of oil made from it annually are sold to the Indians for $1 a gallon.
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The Herring Family.-Among the herring family (C'lupez'da>), the sardine is taken in the bays of our coast during the greater part of the year. It is caught from the wharves of San Francisco and San Diego with line and hook, and resembles the fish of that name found in the waters of Europe, where, the young, preserved in oil, are esteemed as a table delicacy; though the canned fish usually sold here, under the name of sardine, is nearly always something else. No attempt has yet been made to utilize for canning purposes on our coast the true sardine, which abounds in the waters of California. The anchovy is almost equally plentiful here; but it is found chiefly in sheltered bays, and is difficult to catch. From 25 to 40 tons of anchovies are caught in the harbor of San Francisco alone, during the season, which lasts from June to August. These are sold to the trade at a cent a pound, and retail at about 3 cents, forming the bulk of what are here preserved in oil and passed off on the public as sardines, many of them under French labels. Some wholesale and retail grocers import directly from France, and sell no other kind, but this is rather the exception than the rule.
San Francisco obtains her supply of herrings mainly from the waters of her own bay. Their poor condition is caused by the fact that they only enter the harbor to spawn, and the later the season the worse they are. In the \vaters of Puget Sound they are caught in much better condition. Their season commences in California in October, and lasts 4 months. Great schools enter San Francisco Bay every winter, resorting sometimes to the mudflats and shallows, and not unfrequently keeping in deep water, beyond the reach of fishermen. As a rule they are caught at night. The shoal water of Richardson's Bay is a favorite herring-ground. At the beginning of the season the price is often as low as 50 cents, but towards the close often rises to $4 or $5 per cental. Their average weight is about a fifth of a pound. On the Alameda shore seals swarm, and make hearty meals by picking the fish out of the nets, the meshes of which are torn in a most exasperating manner during the process. A strip of shoal off Kershaw’s Island, opposite to Saucelito, is sometimes a good fishing-ground for herring. When the nets are cast, men have to be employed keeping off the seals, which often growl in huge disgust at their futile endeavors to get within swallowing reach of the captive fish. The best grounds for herring fishing in the Bay of San Francisco are in its northern and north-eastern portions. The herring move in shoals, and run against the tide. \/Vhen they meet the nets they experience no difficulty in running their heads through the meshes, but owing to the peculiar shape of the fish, they can get no further. Retreat is of course impossible. After a time, the net is slowly drawn in, and one haul is sometimes enough to load a boat. The herring are sold at the city markets for fresh consumption, or at the wharves to persons engaged in salting, drying, and smoking them. Soon after the close of the season, the herring fisher usually starts for the salmon fishing-grounds of the Sacramento, where he remains for 3 or 4 months.
The cost of a herring gill net is over $100, and 40 per cent. of the price is represented by the duty. A good one will last 3 summers with careful usage and timely repairs, and serves also for smelt fishing. Besides the stationary net, the equipment of a boat for the whole season includes a seine, or casting net, 60 fathoms long, with very small meshes, which will catch anything from a halibut 5 feet long to a shrimp or a tomcod; also a seabass or sturgeon net 300 fathoms long, and 20 feet deep, with a mesh 8 inches square. An entire bay fishing outfit costs from $500 to $1,000; the boat alone, if well built and rigged, being worth $350. Forty of these boats may be seen any afternoon at the Vallejo-st.reet wharf. Their rig consists of a short slanting mast, and a slender boom (always longer than the boat itself), from which is bent an immense spread of lateen sail. Occasionally the boats carry a jib somewhat bigger than a table napkin. Each boat is manned by two or three men. On arriving at the fishing-ground, the net is paid out from the stern of the boat. This operation, called “shooting the net,” lasts only a few. minutes. After several hours, the catch is hauled in, and a single haul is sometimes sufficient for one boat-load.
Source: Commerce and Industries of the Pacific Coast of North America ©1882

1882 Women's Fashions

Dresses

Walking Dress

House Dress

House & Walking Dress

Outdoor & House Dress

Traveling Bag

Fishing Dory

The first time I saw a dory I was amazed. Dad brought home this fishing dory that had a hole in the bottom and two bows. He explained that the outboard motor went inside the hole. Well, how can that be? Wouldn't a hole that big cause the boat to sink? And why two bows? The short answer is it didn't. However the 19th Century Dories were powered by men with oars. Below is an illustration of a fifteen foot dory as well as a description of it from a "Report on the Ship building industry of the United States." ©1884
These dories are often painted in works of art from this time period, as in Winslow Homer's The Fog Warning 1882.

A variety'of other boats are built along the New England coast for fishing, some to go with vessels, others for alongshore use, primarily intended for rowing, but often having also some sort of a small fore-and-aft sail, with a pole for a mast that can be unshipped and taken down readily. The shore boats are for lobstering and fishing with hand-lines, seining, etc. They are regularly framed keel boats, usually open, and are sometimes clinker built and sometimes sharp at both ends. The seine boats are always sharp at both ends; they are rather full on the floor amidships, are well modeled at the ends, and are given a good sheer. On the coast of Maine some of the shore boats have a little caddy forward, in which is placed a stove, to keep the men warm in winter, and also to prevent the lobsters from freezing until they can be brought to shore and sent to market. The general model of the open boat is a legacy from early times. It came into existence at a very early period, owing to the exigencies of the peculiar calling in which it is employed, which has compelled the shore fishermen to adopt a boat suited to flat beaches and having the properties of light draught, buoyancy, stability, and stowage capacity for fishing apparatus and fish. The object of building the boats with sharp ends is to e nable fishermen to launch and land through the surf with facility and to handle the boat in rough water with safety. The New England fishermen of to day have been accustomed to this general model from childhood, and they pin their faith to it with the utmost tenacity. It is the model which forms the basis of the admirable boats used in the United States life-saving service. The crews of the life stations have been largely recruited from the sea-coast fishermen, and the bureau at Washington gives them the model they know so well and can handle with such remarkable skill.

1882 Men's & Women's Fashions

1882 Fashions

These Historic Fashions from 1882 come from 1882 publications.

House Dress

House Dress & Hat

House Dress Parasol

Walking Dress

Bonnet & Mantle

Bathing Bag

Children

1882 Straw Cradle aka baby carrier

Below is some information on a wicker cradle what we would call a baby carrier today. There are two illustrations, the wicker alone and the covered carrier.

A great advantage in this wicker cot is that is so light to carry, that its transportation from one room to another is an easy matter. The cradle is given trimmed and untrimmed. In the untrimmed model, the head lining only is given, which is of white glazed chintz; but silk can be used, if preferred. The outside is covered with chintz, having a white ground, with a tiny pattern of rosebuds. The ruche around the head and foot is of the same material, and the handles are worked over with wools to match the colors in the chintz. Some cover these cradles with colored silesia, and over that dotted white moulin, and frills of lace, and bows of ribbon.

Any basket-maker can make the foundation, from this model, by giving the proper size required.

Chicken Soup

I've come to use the term of Jewish Penicillin for Chicken Soup whenever I'm starting to come down with a cold. It's a great remedy and works really well. However, the term was not used during the 19th Century so be careful in your historical novel not to call Chicken Soup by that name. What is interesting is that Chicken broth was often used for the 'invalid' during that time period.

Below are some recipes for Chicken Soup.
Chicken Broth for the Invalid.—Procure a dry-picked Philadelphia roasting chicken; cut it in halves; put one half in the ice box; chop the other half into neat pieces; put it into a small saucepan; add one quart of cold water, a little salt and a leaf of celery; simmer gently for two hours; remove the oily particles thoroughly ; strain the broth into a bowl; when cooled a little, serve to the convalescent. Serve the meat with the broth.
Chicken Soup.—Take three young male chickens; cut them up; put them in a saucepan with three quarts of veal stock. (A sliced carrot, one turnip, and one head of celery may be put with them and removed before the soup is thickened.) Let them simmer for an hour. Remove all the white flesh; return the rest of the birds to the soup, and boil gently for two hours. Pour a little of the liquid over a quarter of a pound of bread crumbs, and when l8 CHICKEN SOUP, NO. 2.
they are well soaked put it in a mortar with the white flesh of the birds, and pound the whole to a smooth paste: add a pinch of ground mace, salt, and a little cayenne pepper; press the mixture through a sieve, and boil once more, adding a pint of boiling cream: thicken with a little flour mixed in cold milk; remove the bones, and serve.
Chicken Soup, No. 2.—Cut up one chicken, put into a stewpan two quarts of cold water, a teaspoonful of salt, and one pod of red pepper; when half done add two desert spoonfuls of well washed rice : when thoroughly cooked, remove the bird from the soup, tear a part of the breast into shreds (saving the remainder of the fowl for a salad), and add it to the soup with a wine-glass full of cream.
Clam Broth.—Procure three dozen littleneck clams in the shell; wash them well in cold water; put them in a saucepan, cover with a quart of hot water; boil fifteen minutes ; drain; remove the shells ; chop up the clams, and add them to the hot broth with a pat of butter; salt if necessary and add a little cayenne; boil ten minutes, pour into a soup tureen, add a slice of toast, and send to table. This is the mode adopted when we do not have a clam opener in the house.
Source: Fifty Soups ©1884

Brown Chicken Soup.—Cut up a nicely dressed chicken. Put it in the pot with water to cover it, which must be measured, and half as much more added to it before the soup is dished. Keep it covered tight, boiling slowly, and take off the fat as fast as it rises. When the chicken is tender, take it from the pot, and mince it very fine. Season it to the taste, and brown it with butter, in a spider, or dripping pan. When brown, put it back in the pot. Brown together butter and flour, and make rich gravy, by adding a pint of the soup; stir this in the soup, and season it with a little pepper, salt, and butter. Be careful the chopped chicken does not settle, and burn on the pot. It will be well to turn a small plate in the bottom of the kettle, to prevent this. Toast bread quite brown and dry, but don't burn it, and lay the toast in tho tureen, and serve it with the soup; stir the chicken through it, and pour it in the tureen.
White Chicken Soup.—Prepare the fowl, as in brown chicken soup, with the same quantity of water. When tender, remove it from the pot, and put into the soup a half teacup of washed pearl barley. Mince the meat fine, season it, and make it into balls with egg and flour, the size of marbles. Season the soup with salt, pepper, and butter. If the barley has not thickened the soup sufficiently, add a little flour stirred in water. Ten minutes before dishing, drop in the meat balls. The soup must be kept only boiling hot, or the balls will break in pieces. Toast bread lightly, or use cracker to crumb in the soup at the table. Celery and sour pickles give relish to chicken soups. Rabbits, squirrels, or birds, can be made into either white or brown soups.
Source: The Housekeeper's Encyclopedia ©1861

PLAIN CHICKEN SOUP.
The flesh of the fowl from which the stock is to be made, should, with the exception of the breast, be cut into small pieces, and the bones broken. The breast, with the skin as perfect as possible, should be placed in the pot whole, on top of the prepared material, and removed as soon as tender. To each quart of stock, when strained and skimmed, add an ounce of rice, and let simmer three-quarters of an hour, then add the breast of the chicken, cut in dice, a little minced parsley, and salt and pepper to taste. Plain chicken soup is much improved if about a pound of round steak be cut up and cooked with the fowl.
To this soup add a pint of sweet cream, thicken with flour, and flavor highly with celery, and the product will be a much admired white soup— cream of celery soup;—or if the celery and cream be omitted, the addition of half a teaspoonful of curry powder will transform it into a choice Mulligatawny soup.
Source: Soup & Soup Making ©1882

CARD GAMES part three

this is the third and final part on Card games.

NAPOLEON.
This game, though comparatively new, is exceedingly interesting, and one that hitherto has always proved to be very popular as a lively and stirring round game.
Like Speculation, it is played with a full pack of fifty-two cards, and as the shuffling of them is of great importance, it is advisable to be supplied with two packs, as at Whist.
The pool is started by contributions from each player, the dealer giving double value. Five cards are then distributed to each player and held in the hand; as at Whist, it being necessary for the owner of them to ascertain whether they are good or otherwise.
The player to the left of the dealer then declares how many tricks he will guarantee to take, or whether he would prefer to be passed once, owing to the weakness of his hand.
He may promise to take one, two, three, or four tricks; but unless he should declare Nap, which means that he is able to take all five tricks, the next player is questioned, and so on, until Nap has ultimately been proclaimed by some one. Should no player declare Nap, the one declaring to take the highest number of tricks leads off.
The stand player, as he is called, then plays against every one else; he leads the game, and his first card decides what suit shall be trumps. All the other players try to prevent him from making the tricks which he declared to take, because, if he should fail, the payments will have to be made from him to them. Should he succeed, however, they pay him; and in the event of his making Nap, he receives double stakes from every one of the company.
A player revoking is Napoleoned, which means that he must pay five tricks to the stand hand, and the cards are played over again.

CRIBBAGE.
This game is played with an ordinary Whist pack, and it is won by the player who first scores sixty-one points. These points are marked on what is called a cribbage-board. The board may be placed either across or lengthways between the players.
A player must begin to score from the end where his sixty-first point is, and begin at the outside edge. Two pegs are given to each player to score with, and he uses them as follows:—
Supposing his first score to be four, he places a peg in the fourth hole; then if his next score be three, he marks it off from the position of the first peg, and sticks the second peg in the third hole farther on.
If his next score bo eight, say, he counts from the second peg eight holes, and there sticks the
peg, and so on. By this method confusion is Cribbaoe Board.
avoided, and the players are able to check one another's scores. Generally, the pegs of the different players vary in colour, but this is not necessary, though one player must never touch his opponent's half of the board.
The court cards and tens rank equally, and the other cards according to their number of pips. Aces are counted lowest.
The Game.
The cards having been shuffled, the non-dealer cuts, but does not place the undermost half on the uppermost, as in Whist, but leaves the pack divided into two parts on the table. From the undermost part the dealer then deals five cards each, beginning with his adversary. The remaining cards are placed on the other heap, and the pack remains undisturbed until the crib cards are put out. In the first hand of a new game, the non-dealer counts three at starting, as a sort of set-off against the possession of crib by the dealer.
Both players then look at their hands and throw out two cards, the dealer throwing out first, and the cards being face downwards.
The non-dealer then again cuts the cards, but the number cut must be more than two, after which the dealer takes the top card of the heap left on the table, the non-dealer replaces the cards he cut, ana the dealer puts the top card, which is thrown face upwards on the whole.
The two cards thrown out by each player and the turn-up card form the crib, which belongs to the dealer. If a knave be the turn-up, the dealer counts "two for his heels." The turn-up card is reckoned in making up the score of either player, as well as of the crib. The non-dealer then begins by playing a card, the value of which he calls out.
Suppose the dealer to have in his hand a queen, knave, and five, and the non-dealer a seven, eight, and queen, and that the turn-up is four; then the nondealer plays his queon, and cries "ton;" the dealer plays his queen, and cries "twenty," scoring two for a pair, because a court card counts ten.
The first player then puts down his knave and cries "thirty." As his is the nearest attained to thirty-one, and the dealer has no ace, he cries " Go," and the first player scores one hole.
Each player's hand is then counted up, the elder one scoring four—two for each fifteen; and the dealer two for his fifteen, made up by a seven and eight.
If the knave in either hand be the same suit as the turn-up, the holder of the card scores "one for his nob." The crib is added up by the dealer, and the game goes on.
If in trying to get near thirty-one in the beginning a player can make fifteen, he counts two. If a player gets exactly thirty-one he counts two.
The hands are counted up as follows :—
For knave turned up (heels) 2 points.
For sequence of three or four cards 3 or 4 ,,
For a flush, that is, three cards of same suit 3 „
For a full flush, when cards in hand and turn-up are of same suit 4 points.
For every fifteen, as 6 and 9; 10, 3, and 2; 7 and 8, court card and 5, &c. 2
For a pair (two of a sort, as 2 threes, 2 fours, &c.) 2
For a pair royal (three of same sort) 6
For a double pair royal, or four of same sort 12
For knave of trumps in hand (nob) 1
If a player has in his hand, say, six, seven, and eight, and the turn-up is eight, he will count that two separate sequences, and score three for each.
The non-dealer always counts up first. This counting up is called the "show," and the first show is very important at the end of the game, as a player may just get sixty-one points and win. The dealer may also have sixty-one, but as his show has not been the first it does not count.
Should the dealer misdeal, and not discover the mistake before either of the hands is taken up, his opponent counts two, and a fresh deal must be made. If, during the deal the non-dealer expose any one of his cards to view, the dealer has the option of dealing again, without, however, looking at his own cards. If the dealer deal more than five cards, his adversary counts two, and a new deal takes place, the same penalty being enforced if he give less than five cards.

Card Games Part two

This is the second installment of Card Games, the first was last week on Thursday. Short Whist is a lot shorter in the directions than Long Whist.


SHORT WHIST.
This is unmistakably nothing more or less than ordinary Whist cut in half; therefore it is almost unnecessary to say much about it, because the principles of the game are just the same as those which have been given at length for the playing of Long Whist.
It is said that it was first introduced at Bath by Lord Peterborough, who, fearing he was about to incur some heavy losses, thought he might sooner be relieved of his suspense if he could contrive to shorten the game. Even now, although it may not be so popular as it once was, it still possesses a great attraction for many players, who are of opinion that the awarding of points for honours (which are not held as the result of play, but simply because they are dealt out to the players holding them) introduces an element of mere accident into the game, which they think does not add either to its interest or to its claims as a scientific amusement. Five points constitute the game in Short Whist, the rubber being reckoned as two points.
Honours are never called, but are always counted, except at the point of four.
The chief advantage of Short Whist lies in the fact that the trumps may be made special instruments of power. Carleton says:—" Trumps should be your rifle company; use them liberally in your manoeuvres; have copious reference to them in finessing, to enable you to maintain a long suit."
Should you be weak in trumps, ruff a doubtful card at all times; with a command in them, be very chary of that policy.
Let your great principle always be to keep the control of your adversaries' suit and leave that of your partner free.
If you see the probable good effect of forcing, decide which of your adversaries you will assail, but do not attempt them both at once. Let it be the stronger, if possible.
When you force both hands opposed to you, one throws away his useless cards; while the chance is the other makes trumps that under other circumstances would have been sacrificed.
And the great authority Deschapelles, in speaking of Short Whist, remarks, "When we consider the social feeling it engenders, the pleasure and vivacity it promotes, and the advantages it offers to the less skilful player, we cannot help acknowledging that Short Whist is a decided improvement upon the old game."

DUMBY, OR THREE-HANDED WHIST.
This is exactly the same as Long Whist, excepting that there are three players instead of four, and one of the players undertaking the responsibility of two hands. Duinby's hand is exposed on the table, open to the view of the three players. On the whole, the player having Dumby for partner has somewhat the best of it.

DOUBLE DT/MBY, OR TWO-HANDED WHIST.
This is when only two persons play. Two hands may either be exposed on the table, and made use of as if there were four players, or they may be entirely rejected. In the latter case the single hands held by the players must be managed as skilfully as possible. In all these little variations upon the real game of Whist each honour counts as one point.

EUCHRE.
This is the most popular game in the United States, and can be played by two, three, or four players.
Like Whist, Euchre does not depend upon chance only; great skill is required to play the game well.
It is played with a Piquet pack, that is, a pack of thirty-two cards, all cards below seven, excepting the ace, being taken out. The value of the cards is the same as in Whist, except that the knave of trumps and the other knave of the same colour take precedence over the remainder of the trumps. The knave of trumps is called the right bower, and the knave of the suit of the same colour the left bower.
Supposing spades to be trumps, then the cards rank in the following order:— Knave of spades, knave of clubs, ace, king, queen of spades, &c.
If elubs were trumps then the knave of that suit would be highest card, and knave of spades the next. The knaves rank as in Whist when neither right nor left bowers.
EUCHRE FOR TWO PLAYERS.
The cards are dealt as follows:—First deal two to each, then three to each.
The eleventh card is then turned up, and to whatever suit it belongs that suit is trumps.
Five points constitute the game. If a player win three tricks, they count for one point; if he win four tricks, they also count for one point; but if he win all five tricks, they count two points.
The eleventh card being turned up, the first player begins the game by looking at his hand to ascertain if, in his own estimation, it is sufficiently strong to score —that is, to make three, four, or five tricks. Should he be able to do so, he will say, " I order it up;" that is, that the dealer is to take up the turn-up card in his hand, and put out any card he likes. If, on the contrary, he thinks he cannot score, he says, "I pass."
If the first player orders the turn-up card up, the game begins at once by his playing a card and the dealer following suit. Should the dealer not be able to follow suit, he must either throw away or trump, as in Whist.
The winner of the trick then leads, and so the game goes on until the ten cards are played.
If either the dealer or the other player order the card up and fail to get three or more tricks, he is euchred—that is, his adversary scores two.
Suppose the first player passes, not, in his own estimation, being strong enough to make three tricks, the dealer can, if he likes, take the card and put one of his own out, but if he fails to score he is euchred.
If they both pass, the first player may change the trump, and the dealer is compelled to play. If, however, the former does not score he is euchred.
If he passes for the second time the dealer can alter it, the same penalty being enforced should he not score.
if they both pass for the second time, the round is over, and the first player begins to deal.
If trumps are led, and you only have left bower, you must play it, as it is considered a trump.

SPECULATION.
In playing the famous game of Speculation a full pack of fifty-two cards is used, the value of each card being the same as at Whist.
Either counters or halfpennies may serve for stakes, an equal number of which must be allotted to all, the pool being provided by contributions from each player. After cutting for deal the owner of the lowest card deals out three cards to each player, one at a time, face downwards, and no one must on any account look at what has been given him. /
The top card of the remaining pack is then to be the trump, and this card the dealer may either keep himself or sell to the highest bidder, making it thus an object of speculation.
The player on the left of the possessor of the winning card then turns up his top card, and if it happen not to be a trump the next player turns up, and so on, until a higher trump than the first make its appearance, when the new comer takes the place of its predecessor, and, if not retained by its owner, is awarded to the highest bidder. If the card be not a trump, but only an ordinary one, it may be beaten by the highest card that makes its appearance of the same suit or by a trump.
At the close of every round the pool is won by the player who holds the highest card of the tramp suit. Should the ace of trumps be turned up, the hand is, of course, at an end, the owner of it being the winner.
The game is well named, for the buying and selling business is frequently carried on to a very considerable extent. Sometimes the players will sell their whole hand to each other, or perhaps a single card on the chance of their proving winners.
Although the above method is the most common way of playing, slight variations are frequently made. For instance, an extra hand is dealt by many players and placed in the middle of the table for pool; at the end of the round this hand is examined, and if a better card is found in it than that belonging to the winner, the pool is left undisturbed, and added to the next new pool, making it, of course, double in value. Another variation is, that any player who may turn up a knave or a five of any suit excepting trumps shall pay one counter to the pool.
In order to play well at Speculation great judgment must be used, and also the memory must be in full exercise, but when once thoroughly understood and appreciated there is no game superior to it for a Christmas gathering, and almost any number of players may join in it.

CARD GAMES part one

Today I'm beginning a series on Card Games, the first game I'm sharing is Long Whist and the rules are long. But for those of you who might play whist, check it out and see if the rules have changed. Cassel's Book of Indoor Amusements, Card Games and Fireside Fun ©1882 is our source for this really long tidbit.

CARD GAMES.
There is no knowing exactly when card-playing first made its appearance, or who introduced it. Long before Whist, Cribbage, or Piquet was heard of the natives of India and China amused themselves for many a long hour in cardplaying. Though probably they did not restrict themselves to any particular rule or method, still, the enjoyment they derived from the game was, doubtless, quite equal to any that we have now. The old tale, that has so often been repeated, that Whist was invented purposely to entertain, during his moments of sanity, an English sovereign who had lost his reason, may or may not be true. All we really know is, that for more than two hundred years our grandmothers and grandfathers have spent many a happy hour at the card-table, sipping their toddy and playing their rubbers in really good earnest. As far as we are concerned, the toddy sipping may be with safety dispensed with, but not the earnestness; for with cards, almost more than any other amusement, it is utterly useless to play in a half-hearted sort of manner.
Everything, for the time, must be forgotten but the game, and into that the whole energy must be thrown. As all good players know, triflers are to be dreaded far more than inexperienced players. The latter, by practice, strict attention, the exercise of judgment, observation, and memory may soon become skilful players, while the former will never willingly be chosen as partners by good Whist players. It is said that good old Sir Roger de Coverley sent a messenger round every Christmas time with a pack of cards to all the cottagers on his estate, and if accompanied, as no doubt they were, with something useful and substantial, nothing could have been much more acceptable.

LONG WHIST.
Among all card games Whist is unequalled, and although no more than four players can join in one game, a whole roomful of people may easily play at the same time by simply dividing themselves into so many quartettes, a pack of cards being provided for each set of players.
For Long Whist four players are required, and a complete pack of fiftytwo cards. The first step is for each player to draw a card from the pack, the two highest and the two lowest being partners, each player taking his seat opposite his partner. The cards are then shuffled by the "elder hand," who is the player to the left of the dealer, the post of dealer being allotted to the drawer of the lowest card; after which they are cut by the "younger hand," who is the player to the right of the dealer. Beginning with his left-hand neighbour, the whole pack is then dealt out to the players one by one, faces downward, until the last one is arrived at, which, though the property of the dealer, is turned up, displaying the trump suit. If dealt properly, every player will hold in his hand thirteen cards, which he is now at liberty to look at and arrange in order, the owner of each hand being in honour bound not to look at any cards but his own.
The object of the game is for each player to either make himself, or assist his partner in making, as many tricks as possible, so that they together may gain ten points, that number being game in Long Whist.