Showing posts with label Preserving. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Preserving. Show all posts
Wednesday, May 17, 2017
Lightning Jars
These came into existence in 1882. The inventor was Henry William Putnam. The fruit jar had a glass lid that had a clamp to hold the lid in place. One of the reasons they became popular was because no metal contacted the food. The metal clamps made it easier to seal and remove thus the name "Lightning".
Mason Jars
John L. Mason was an inventor and tin smith. In 1858 he invented the Mason jar. First he created a machine that could cut threads into the lids. This made it practical for the jar makers to make a threaded top on the jars. His patent was granted on Nov. 30, 1858.
Wednesday, February 15, 2017
Best Cement for Jars (Preserving)
You read that title right. "Cement" for jars had me smiling. In Miss Leslie's New Cookery Book ©1857 pg.645 she gives instructions on a substance for sealing canned foods, like wax on home-made jellies today. Today the idea of cement covering and protecting our perishable food doesn't sound appetizing however to those living in the 19th century it was practical and descriptive of the function it did. Below is the excerpt from Miss Leslie's book:
THE BEST CEMENT FOR JARS.—Before preserving and pickling time, buy at a druggist's, two ounces of the clearest and whitest gum tragacanth. Obtain also two grains of corrosive sublimate, (indispensable to this cement), and having picked the gum tragacanth clean, and free from dust and dark or discolored particles, put it with the sublimate into a very clean yellow or whiteware mug that holds a small quart and has a closefitting lid belonging to it. Then fill the vessel more than two-thirds with very clean water, either warm or cold, and put on the lid. Let it rest till next morning. Then stir it with an unpainted stick, that will reach quite down to the bottom. Repeat the stirring frequently through the day, always replacing the lid. In a few days the cement will have risen to the top of the mug, and have become a fine, clear, smooth paste, far superior to any other; and, by means of the corrosive sublimate, it will keep perfectly well to an indefinite period, if always closely covered, and having no sort of metal dipped into it. On no account attempt to keep this paste in tin, or even in silver. Both paste and metal will turn black and become spotted. Remember this.
Whan going to put away your sweetmeats or pickles, this paste will come into use, and be found invaluable. It is best to keep all these things in small jars, as opening a large jar frequently, may injure its contents by letfing in the air. In a large family, or where many pickles are eaten, those in most frequent use may be kept in stone-ware jars, with a wooden spoon always at hand for taking them out when wanted. On the surface of every jar of pickles, put one or two table-spoonfuls of salad oil, and then cover the top of the jar closely with a circular piece of bladder or thin leather. Next cut out a narrow band of the same, and cement it on with gum tragacanth paste, (made as above), and let it remain till you open the jar for use.
For sweetmeats, have glass or white-ware jars. Lay on the surface of each a circular paper, cut to fit and dipped in brandy. Next, put on an outside cover of bladder or thick white paper secured with a band of the same, coated with tragacanth paste. When this cement is used, the jars will not be infested with ants or other insects, the corrosive sublimate keeping them out.
This paste should be at hand in every library or office, when wanted for papers or books. It requires no boiling when made, and is always ready, and never spoils. For a small quantity, take an ounce of the best gum tragacanth and a grain of corrosive sublimate. Get a covered white or yellow-ware mug that holds a pint; such a mug will cost but twelve cents. Dissolve in less than a pint of water.
THE BEST CEMENT FOR JARS.—Before preserving and pickling time, buy at a druggist's, two ounces of the clearest and whitest gum tragacanth. Obtain also two grains of corrosive sublimate, (indispensable to this cement), and having picked the gum tragacanth clean, and free from dust and dark or discolored particles, put it with the sublimate into a very clean yellow or whiteware mug that holds a small quart and has a closefitting lid belonging to it. Then fill the vessel more than two-thirds with very clean water, either warm or cold, and put on the lid. Let it rest till next morning. Then stir it with an unpainted stick, that will reach quite down to the bottom. Repeat the stirring frequently through the day, always replacing the lid. In a few days the cement will have risen to the top of the mug, and have become a fine, clear, smooth paste, far superior to any other; and, by means of the corrosive sublimate, it will keep perfectly well to an indefinite period, if always closely covered, and having no sort of metal dipped into it. On no account attempt to keep this paste in tin, or even in silver. Both paste and metal will turn black and become spotted. Remember this.
Whan going to put away your sweetmeats or pickles, this paste will come into use, and be found invaluable. It is best to keep all these things in small jars, as opening a large jar frequently, may injure its contents by letfing in the air. In a large family, or where many pickles are eaten, those in most frequent use may be kept in stone-ware jars, with a wooden spoon always at hand for taking them out when wanted. On the surface of every jar of pickles, put one or two table-spoonfuls of salad oil, and then cover the top of the jar closely with a circular piece of bladder or thin leather. Next cut out a narrow band of the same, and cement it on with gum tragacanth paste, (made as above), and let it remain till you open the jar for use.
For sweetmeats, have glass or white-ware jars. Lay on the surface of each a circular paper, cut to fit and dipped in brandy. Next, put on an outside cover of bladder or thick white paper secured with a band of the same, coated with tragacanth paste. When this cement is used, the jars will not be infested with ants or other insects, the corrosive sublimate keeping them out.
This paste should be at hand in every library or office, when wanted for papers or books. It requires no boiling when made, and is always ready, and never spoils. For a small quantity, take an ounce of the best gum tragacanth and a grain of corrosive sublimate. Get a covered white or yellow-ware mug that holds a pint; such a mug will cost but twelve cents. Dissolve in less than a pint of water.
Monday, January 23, 2017
Apples & Preserving
In 1874 Haydn's dictionary of dates was printed. It is filled with all kinds of interesting tidbits. Below is what it had to say about apples.
APPLES. The Romans knew of 22 varieties of apples, according to Pliny. Ray reckons 78 kinds in his day, in England (1688). In the U. S. 200 varieties exist Apple-trees of finest quality last 80 years. Some reach the age of 200 years. Throughout the U. S. the following appear to be the favorites: For summer apples, the Early Harrett, Sveet Bough and Red Astrackim ; for autumn, the Fall Pippin, Porter andGravenslein; for winter, the Baldvin and 'Rhode Island Greening. The demand for the fruit is greatly in advance of the supply, and in London the American apple commands fabulous prices. In 1860, the yield of orchard fruit amounted to $19,000,000, the greater part of which was derived from the apple product. In 1865, the orchards in the State of New York yielded 16,275,505 bushels of apples.
In 1872 the publication "A Dictionary of Every day wants:" came out and gives two methods of storing apples for later use.
APPLES, To Dry.—The most general method adopted in drying apples is, after they are pared, to cut them in slices, and spread them on cloths, tables, or boards, and dry them out-doors. In clear and dry weather this is, perhaps, the most expeditious and best way; but in cloudy and stormy weather this way is attended with much inconvenience, and sometimes loss, in consequence of the apples rotting before they dry. To some extent they may be dried in this way in the house, though this is attended with much inconvenience. The best method that I have ever ased to dry apples is to use frames. These combine the most advantages with the least inconvenience o( any way, and can be used with equal advantage either in drying in the house or out in
the sun. In pleasant weather the frames can be set out-doors against the side of the building, or any other support, and nights, or cloudy and stormy days, they can be brought into the house, and set against the side of the room near the stove or fire-place. Frames are made in the following manner: Two strips of board, 7 feet long, 2 or 2 1/2 inches wide—two strips 3 feet long, 1 1/2 inches wide, the whole 3/4 of an inch thick—nail the short strips across the ends of the long ones, and it makes a frame 7 by 3 feet, which is a convenient sire for all purposes. On one of the long strips nails are driven 3 inches apart, extending from the top to the bottom. After the apples are pared, they are quartered and cored, and with a needle and twine, or stout thread strung into lengths long enough to reach twice across the frame; the ends of the twine are then tied together, and the strings hung on the nails across the frame. The apples will soon dry so that the strings can be doubled on the nails, and fresh ones put on or the whole of them removed, and others put in their place. As fast as the apples become sufficiently dry they can be taken from the strings, and the same strings used to dry more on. If large apples are used to dry, they can be cut in smaller pieces. Pears and quinces, and other fruits that can be strung, may be dried in this way.
APPLES, Preserving. —l. By selecting the best of fruit, and carefully enveloping each specimen separately in paper so that the air cannot pass through, the time of keeping in a sound and eatable condition can be greatly prolonged. After covering each apple with paper, select a light wooden box and cover it on the inside, or outside, with paper either before, or after putting in the fruit, as the case may be. Those persons who are desirous of preserving a small quantity of apples will be amply repaid for their trouble by trying the above experiment. The fruit should not be disturbed after packing until the box is opened at the time the fruit is to be eaten.—2. A layer of dry sawdust was sprinkled at the bottom of the box, and then a layer of apples placed in it so that they did not touch each other. Upon these were placed a little layer of sawdust, and so on until the box was filled. The boxes, after being packed in this way, were placed on the wall in the cellar, up from the ground, where they kept, perfectly retaining their freshness and flavor, until brought out.—3. Apples for keeping should be laid out on a dry floor (or three weeks. They then may be packed away in layers, with dry straw between them. Each apple should be rubbed with a dry cloth as it is
Put away. They should be kept in a cool place, ut should be sufficiently covered with straw to protect them from frost. They should be plucked on a dry day. They also keep if packed in dry sand.—4. An excellent method for preserving apples through the winter is to put them in barrels or boxes, surrounding each apple with some dry mould or gypsum (plaster of Paris)— not the calcined used for casts, models, etc.— and kept in a dry, cool outhouse.
Another method I've come across but can't find the source right now, was using the husks of the corn, wrapping the apples in the husks and put them away in a similar method as above.
APPLES. The Romans knew of 22 varieties of apples, according to Pliny. Ray reckons 78 kinds in his day, in England (1688). In the U. S. 200 varieties exist Apple-trees of finest quality last 80 years. Some reach the age of 200 years. Throughout the U. S. the following appear to be the favorites: For summer apples, the Early Harrett, Sveet Bough and Red Astrackim ; for autumn, the Fall Pippin, Porter andGravenslein; for winter, the Baldvin and 'Rhode Island Greening. The demand for the fruit is greatly in advance of the supply, and in London the American apple commands fabulous prices. In 1860, the yield of orchard fruit amounted to $19,000,000, the greater part of which was derived from the apple product. In 1865, the orchards in the State of New York yielded 16,275,505 bushels of apples.
In 1872 the publication "A Dictionary of Every day wants:" came out and gives two methods of storing apples for later use.
APPLES, To Dry.—The most general method adopted in drying apples is, after they are pared, to cut them in slices, and spread them on cloths, tables, or boards, and dry them out-doors. In clear and dry weather this is, perhaps, the most expeditious and best way; but in cloudy and stormy weather this way is attended with much inconvenience, and sometimes loss, in consequence of the apples rotting before they dry. To some extent they may be dried in this way in the house, though this is attended with much inconvenience. The best method that I have ever ased to dry apples is to use frames. These combine the most advantages with the least inconvenience o( any way, and can be used with equal advantage either in drying in the house or out in
the sun. In pleasant weather the frames can be set out-doors against the side of the building, or any other support, and nights, or cloudy and stormy days, they can be brought into the house, and set against the side of the room near the stove or fire-place. Frames are made in the following manner: Two strips of board, 7 feet long, 2 or 2 1/2 inches wide—two strips 3 feet long, 1 1/2 inches wide, the whole 3/4 of an inch thick—nail the short strips across the ends of the long ones, and it makes a frame 7 by 3 feet, which is a convenient sire for all purposes. On one of the long strips nails are driven 3 inches apart, extending from the top to the bottom. After the apples are pared, they are quartered and cored, and with a needle and twine, or stout thread strung into lengths long enough to reach twice across the frame; the ends of the twine are then tied together, and the strings hung on the nails across the frame. The apples will soon dry so that the strings can be doubled on the nails, and fresh ones put on or the whole of them removed, and others put in their place. As fast as the apples become sufficiently dry they can be taken from the strings, and the same strings used to dry more on. If large apples are used to dry, they can be cut in smaller pieces. Pears and quinces, and other fruits that can be strung, may be dried in this way.
APPLES, Preserving. —l. By selecting the best of fruit, and carefully enveloping each specimen separately in paper so that the air cannot pass through, the time of keeping in a sound and eatable condition can be greatly prolonged. After covering each apple with paper, select a light wooden box and cover it on the inside, or outside, with paper either before, or after putting in the fruit, as the case may be. Those persons who are desirous of preserving a small quantity of apples will be amply repaid for their trouble by trying the above experiment. The fruit should not be disturbed after packing until the box is opened at the time the fruit is to be eaten.—2. A layer of dry sawdust was sprinkled at the bottom of the box, and then a layer of apples placed in it so that they did not touch each other. Upon these were placed a little layer of sawdust, and so on until the box was filled. The boxes, after being packed in this way, were placed on the wall in the cellar, up from the ground, where they kept, perfectly retaining their freshness and flavor, until brought out.—3. Apples for keeping should be laid out on a dry floor (or three weeks. They then may be packed away in layers, with dry straw between them. Each apple should be rubbed with a dry cloth as it is
Put away. They should be kept in a cool place, ut should be sufficiently covered with straw to protect them from frost. They should be plucked on a dry day. They also keep if packed in dry sand.—4. An excellent method for preserving apples through the winter is to put them in barrels or boxes, surrounding each apple with some dry mould or gypsum (plaster of Paris)— not the calcined used for casts, models, etc.— and kept in a dry, cool outhouse.
Another method I've come across but can't find the source right now, was using the husks of the corn, wrapping the apples in the husks and put them away in a similar method as above.
Monday, December 19, 2016
Improvements in Canning Meat 1825
In 1825 Ezra Daggett and Thomas Kensett filed for a patent for improving the canning of meat. Below is an excerpt from an account written by the Maryland Bureaus of Industrial Statistics that gives an overview of the canning industry. This industry helped change American's daily lives.
Canning And Packing Industries.
OYSTERS, FRUITS AND VEGETABLES.
According to the best posted authorities on the canning industry in America, the present method of packing oysters, fruits and vegetables was commenced in the United States in the early part of the last century. Mr. E. S. Judge, of The Trade, says in an article written some time since, that the first patent for a tin can for hermetically sealing food was granted to Peter Durand in England in 1810, the patent covering the use of glass, pottery and other material, as well as tin. Ezra Daggett brought the secret of this patent to America between 1815 and 1818, and engaged in the business in New York City in company with Thomas Kensett,and some of the cans used in 1822 are still in possession of the family. Salmon and lobsters were among some of the first goods packed, and oysters were also preserved at that time. In 1825 a patent was granted in this country to Ezra Daggett and Thomas Kensett for an improvement in the art of preserving. Charles Mitchell arrived in Boston from Scotland a little later, about 1820, and entered the employment of the firm of William Underwood & Company to "hermetically seal food." Work in this business was begun in Maryland early in the forties. William Numsen & Sons began work in this business in Baltimore in 1847, and in 1849 they were packing cove oysters. Tomatoes, peaches, pears and other fruits and vegetables were being packed about this time. The widow of Thomas Kensett first sold the secret to Holt & Maltby and others, and from this grew the cove oyster packing business of Maryland. Cove oysters were from coves famous for the size and quality of their oysters, which were located on the west side of the Chesapeake bay, above the Potomac river. Originally all the labor was done by hand, and while this system, to some extent, restricted the output, it proved beneficial in distributing money among the masses, though the price of the product was thereby kept high. Previous to 1850 the cans were made by hand, usually by cutting out the tin blanks with shears, and originally the opening was covered on the flat top by a flat, circular piece of tin, soldered down. Subsequently, machinery took the place of hand labor in the making of cans, and as early as 1849 the "Pendulum" press for making can tops was introduced in Newark, N. J. Lewis McMurray, of Baltimore, was one of the famous firms that grew to be historic in the packing industry in this country. Nathan Winslow, of Portland, is said to have been the first who, commercially, canned sugar corn. The packing of fruits and vegetables grew and extended to California very rapidly, until the industry has grown to such immense proportions that it has become important to every State in the Union, and every farmer in the States. Probably, the greatest development of canneries in Maryland occurred between 1877 and 1885, there being in Harford county, Maryland, alone, at that time, over four hundred.
Canning And Packing Industries.
OYSTERS, FRUITS AND VEGETABLES.
According to the best posted authorities on the canning industry in America, the present method of packing oysters, fruits and vegetables was commenced in the United States in the early part of the last century. Mr. E. S. Judge, of The Trade, says in an article written some time since, that the first patent for a tin can for hermetically sealing food was granted to Peter Durand in England in 1810, the patent covering the use of glass, pottery and other material, as well as tin. Ezra Daggett brought the secret of this patent to America between 1815 and 1818, and engaged in the business in New York City in company with Thomas Kensett,and some of the cans used in 1822 are still in possession of the family. Salmon and lobsters were among some of the first goods packed, and oysters were also preserved at that time. In 1825 a patent was granted in this country to Ezra Daggett and Thomas Kensett for an improvement in the art of preserving. Charles Mitchell arrived in Boston from Scotland a little later, about 1820, and entered the employment of the firm of William Underwood & Company to "hermetically seal food." Work in this business was begun in Maryland early in the forties. William Numsen & Sons began work in this business in Baltimore in 1847, and in 1849 they were packing cove oysters. Tomatoes, peaches, pears and other fruits and vegetables were being packed about this time. The widow of Thomas Kensett first sold the secret to Holt & Maltby and others, and from this grew the cove oyster packing business of Maryland. Cove oysters were from coves famous for the size and quality of their oysters, which were located on the west side of the Chesapeake bay, above the Potomac river. Originally all the labor was done by hand, and while this system, to some extent, restricted the output, it proved beneficial in distributing money among the masses, though the price of the product was thereby kept high. Previous to 1850 the cans were made by hand, usually by cutting out the tin blanks with shears, and originally the opening was covered on the flat top by a flat, circular piece of tin, soldered down. Subsequently, machinery took the place of hand labor in the making of cans, and as early as 1849 the "Pendulum" press for making can tops was introduced in Newark, N. J. Lewis McMurray, of Baltimore, was one of the famous firms that grew to be historic in the packing industry in this country. Nathan Winslow, of Portland, is said to have been the first who, commercially, canned sugar corn. The packing of fruits and vegetables grew and extended to California very rapidly, until the industry has grown to such immense proportions that it has become important to every State in the Union, and every farmer in the States. Probably, the greatest development of canneries in Maryland occurred between 1877 and 1885, there being in Harford county, Maryland, alone, at that time, over four hundred.
Tuesday, December 6, 2016
Storing Oranges
I ran across this tidbit while reading Harriet Beecher Stowe's Palmetto Leaves ©1873
She was visiting Col Hart's orange grove and discovered that they packed the oranges picked four months prior(she was visiting in May) in Spanish Moss. She said they were as delicious and fresh as ones just picked.
She was visiting Col Hart's orange grove and discovered that they packed the oranges picked four months prior(she was visiting in May) in Spanish Moss. She said they were as delicious and fresh as ones just picked.
Monday, December 5, 2016
Christmas Watermelon
On a writer's email loop someone mentioned burying watermelon to preserve them. This had me hunting for sources regarding the preserving of watermelon in the 19th century. Unfortunately, I haven't found much but here is an article in Publications, Volume 24 by Georgia Dept. of Agriculture.©1898
CHRISTMAS WATERMELONS.
Under a previous head forcing for early melons was discussed. He who is successful therein is sure of a good price for his product, but it will not compare with the fancy figures which the "Christmas Watermelon" commands. One would think their appearance at this season decidedly out of place—that they would be in about as much demand as overcoats on the fourth of July; but, strange to say, the public buys them—with avidity, too, and at enormous prices. So it seems that late watermelons ought to be an achievement much more worth striving for than early ones, while the cost and labor of their attainment are considerably less.
Mr. David F. Verner, of Gwinnett county, Georgia, is noted for the fine melons which he markets at Christmas, and his process is simplicity itself. That it will prove equally easy to all who try it is by no means to be expected, and there will doubtless be many failures and disappointments if others attempt to imitate his methods. But the fact remains that he does raise (and save) late watermelons, and on the 23d of last December sold them in quantities and at good figures on the streets of Buford.
Mr. Verner is sufficiently unselfish to be willing to share the knowledge of his process with the public, and his methods are consequently given in his own words, as follows:
"The variety of watermelon used by me for late keeping is the Georgia Rattlesnake. The plan which I pursue is as follows: I prepare the ground thoroughly during May— not in the usual way by diggiog holes, but by opening deep furrows with a two-horse plow. I use stable manure in the drill, but not too much ; cover with two furrows and leave till planting time. Rows 12-ft. apart—8-ft. in drill. I leave only one vine to the hill. Plant between 18th and 30th of June; cultivate with sweep run very shallow. Don't let the plow touch vines. Melons matured before vine begins to die around root are the only ones easily preserved.
For preservation place in dry cellar on cotton seed. I still have eight fine melons on hand (January 4th) in perfect condition that I intended laving till spring, but in neglecting cellar in which they were stored in order that meat in same cellar should get cold, they have frozen. I aim to raise melons this summer that I can save till melons come again."
CHRISTMAS WATERMELONS.
Under a previous head forcing for early melons was discussed. He who is successful therein is sure of a good price for his product, but it will not compare with the fancy figures which the "Christmas Watermelon" commands. One would think their appearance at this season decidedly out of place—that they would be in about as much demand as overcoats on the fourth of July; but, strange to say, the public buys them—with avidity, too, and at enormous prices. So it seems that late watermelons ought to be an achievement much more worth striving for than early ones, while the cost and labor of their attainment are considerably less.
Mr. David F. Verner, of Gwinnett county, Georgia, is noted for the fine melons which he markets at Christmas, and his process is simplicity itself. That it will prove equally easy to all who try it is by no means to be expected, and there will doubtless be many failures and disappointments if others attempt to imitate his methods. But the fact remains that he does raise (and save) late watermelons, and on the 23d of last December sold them in quantities and at good figures on the streets of Buford.
Mr. Verner is sufficiently unselfish to be willing to share the knowledge of his process with the public, and his methods are consequently given in his own words, as follows:
"The variety of watermelon used by me for late keeping is the Georgia Rattlesnake. The plan which I pursue is as follows: I prepare the ground thoroughly during May— not in the usual way by diggiog holes, but by opening deep furrows with a two-horse plow. I use stable manure in the drill, but not too much ; cover with two furrows and leave till planting time. Rows 12-ft. apart—8-ft. in drill. I leave only one vine to the hill. Plant between 18th and 30th of June; cultivate with sweep run very shallow. Don't let the plow touch vines. Melons matured before vine begins to die around root are the only ones easily preserved.
For preservation place in dry cellar on cotton seed. I still have eight fine melons on hand (January 4th) in perfect condition that I intended laving till spring, but in neglecting cellar in which they were stored in order that meat in same cellar should get cold, they have frozen. I aim to raise melons this summer that I can save till melons come again."
Saturday, October 29, 2016
Boots & Shoe Care
This post comes from A dictionary of Every-day wants ©1872
BOOTS AND SHOES, Care of—Boots and shoes, if taken care of properly, will last two or three times longer than they usually do, and, at the same time, fit the feet far more satisfactorily, and keep them dry and more comfortable in wet and cold weather. The upper leather should be kept soft and pliable, while the soles need to be hard, tough, and impervious to water.
The first thing to be done with any pair of new shoes, is to set each one on a platter or a dinner-plate, and pour on boiled linseed-oil sufficient to fill the vessel to the upper edge of the soles. Allow the leather to absorb as much oil as it will for eight hours. Linseed oil should not be applied to the upper leather, as it will soon become dry, rendering the leather hard and tough. But if the soles be saturated with this oil, it will exclude the dampness and enlarge the pegs, so that the soles will never get loose from the upper leather.
If the shoes be sewed, the linseed oil will preserve the thread from rotting. Now wet the upper leather thoroughly when the boots or the shoes are to be put on the feet, so that those parts which are tight may render a trifle, and thus adapt the form of the shoe to the foot far more satisfactorily than when the upper leather is not wet. Keep them on the foot until nearly dry. Then give the upper leather a thorough greasing with equal parts of lard and tallow, or tallow and neat's foot oil.
If shoes be treated in this manner, and a row of round-headed shoe nails be driven around the edge of the soles, they will wear like copper, and always set easy to the feet. Boots and shoes should be treated as suggested, and worn a little several months before they are put to daily service. They should be cleaned frequently, whether they are worn or not. and should never be put to stand in a damp place, nor be put too near the fire to dry. In cleaning, be careful to brush the dirt from the seams, and not to scrape in with a knife, or you will cut the stitches. Let the hard brush do its work thoroughly well, and the polish will be all the brighter. Do not put on too much blacking at a time, for if it dries before using the shining brush the leather will look brown instead of black.
BOOTS AND SHOES, India Rubber, Water Proof for.—Spermaceti, 4 parts; India rubber (small), I part. Melt with a gentle heat, then add tallow or lard, 10 parts; amber or copal varnish, $ parts. Well mix and apply the composition to the leather with a paint-brush. Cut the rubber into very small pieces, and let it take its time to dissolve, say four or five hours.
BOOTS (White Jean) To Clean.—-If you have not boottrees, stuff the boot as full as possible with common cotton wadding or old rags, to prevent any creases; then mix some pipeclay with water to rather a stiff paste, wash the jean boots with soap and water and a nail-brush, using as little water as possible to get the dirt off. When they look tolerably clean rub the pipeclay with a flannel well over them and hang them to dry. When dry beat out the superfluous clay with the hand and rub them till they look smooth. Flake white may also be used.
BOOTS, KID, To Clean.—-If the kid boots are not very soiled they may be cleaned in the following manner:—Put half an ounce of hartshorn into a saucer, dip a bit of clean flannel in it and rub it on a piece of white card soap ; rub the boots with this, and as each piece of flannel becomes soiled, take a fresh piece; the boots will look like new.
BOOTS, KID, To Restore color of.—Take a small quantity of good black ink, mix it with the white of an egg, and apply it to the boots with a soft sponge.
BOOTS, KID, To Soften.—Melt a quarter of a pound of tallow, then pour it into ajar, and add to it the same weight of olive oil, stir, and let it standstill; apply a small quantity occasionally with a piece of flannel. Should the boots be very dirty, cleanse with warm water. It will soften any leather.
BOOTS, PEGGED, To Prevent Ripping.— Pegged boots, it is stated, if occasionally dressed with petroleum between the soles and the upper leather, will not rip. If the soles of boots or shoes are dressed with petroleum they will resist wet and wear well. The pegs, it is said, are not affected by dryness after being well saturated with this liquid.
BOOTS, (PATENT LEATHER), Care of. —The old plan of washing them with milk is simply absurd—a waste of time. If they crack, brush a little blacking into the cracks, and then rub them over with French polish, or common furniture polish, using the finger to lay on the polish, and a soft dry rag to finish off with. In lieu of furniture polish, a mixture of sweet oil and turpentine will answer. This treatment will preserve their bright polish until they are utterly worn out.
BOOT LEATHER, Preservation
BOOTS AND SHOES(Summcr) ToPreserve though the Winter.—Wash the blacking off; let them dry; then oil them with castor or neatsfoot oil. When you wear them they will be soft and pliable, and will last longer if preserved in this way. After you have worn them a few days they are ready for blacking.
BOOTS AND SHOES, (RUBBER), To Mend.—I. Get apiece of pure rubber—an old shoe—vulcanized rubber will not do; cut it into small bits. Put it into a bottle, and cover to twice its depth with spirits of turpentine or refined coal tar naphtha—not petroleum naphtha. Stop the bottle and set one side, shaking it frequently. The rubber will soon dissolve. Then take the shoe and press the rip or cut close together, and put on tlie rubber solution with a camel's hair brush. Continue to apply so fast as it dries until a thorough coating is formed. Spirits of turpentine dissolves the rubber slowest, but forms the most elastic cement.—2. Purchase a can of rubber cement, which can be found in large cities at rubber stores; also some rubber for patches, as new rubber is much better than old boots or shoes. To make the patches adhere, it is necessary to remove the cloth from them. To do this, moisten the cloth with benzine and remove immediately. Cut the patches the proper size to cover the hole in the boot. Make the boot around the hole rough, the size of the patch, with a wood or shoemakers file; apply the cement to the boot, and the patch with a case knife, and let them lie in a warm, dry room from thirty to sixty minutes; then put the patch on the boot, and press it down firmly. Be very particular about the edges of the patch. After it has been on a short time examine it again, to see that it has not started off; if it has, press it down again. Do not use the boot under forty-eight hours after the patch is put on. One fifty cent can of cement will last a family several years. Keep the cover on the can when not in use, as it dries up very quickly. If the cement becomes dry, cut it with benzine.
BOOTS,SQUEAKING,ToPrevent.—Squeaking boots or shoes are a great annoyance, especially in entering a sick room, or a church after the service has commenced. To remedy it, boil linseed oil and saturate the soles with the same.
BOOTS AND SHOES, (Soles of) To Make Waterproof.—Experience has proved that a coat of gum copal varnish applied to the soles of boots and shoes, and repeated as it dries, until the pores are filled and the surface shines like polished mahagony, will make the soles waterfiroof, and also cause them to last three times as ong as ordinary soles.
BOOTS AND SHOES, Water.pr oof-composition for.—Boiled oil 1 pint; oil of turpentine, black rosin, and bees' wax, of each 3 oz. Melt the wax and rosin, then stir in the oil, remove the pot from the fire, and when it has cooled a little, add the turpentine.
BOOTS AND SHOES, Care of—Boots and shoes, if taken care of properly, will last two or three times longer than they usually do, and, at the same time, fit the feet far more satisfactorily, and keep them dry and more comfortable in wet and cold weather. The upper leather should be kept soft and pliable, while the soles need to be hard, tough, and impervious to water.
The first thing to be done with any pair of new shoes, is to set each one on a platter or a dinner-plate, and pour on boiled linseed-oil sufficient to fill the vessel to the upper edge of the soles. Allow the leather to absorb as much oil as it will for eight hours. Linseed oil should not be applied to the upper leather, as it will soon become dry, rendering the leather hard and tough. But if the soles be saturated with this oil, it will exclude the dampness and enlarge the pegs, so that the soles will never get loose from the upper leather.
If the shoes be sewed, the linseed oil will preserve the thread from rotting. Now wet the upper leather thoroughly when the boots or the shoes are to be put on the feet, so that those parts which are tight may render a trifle, and thus adapt the form of the shoe to the foot far more satisfactorily than when the upper leather is not wet. Keep them on the foot until nearly dry. Then give the upper leather a thorough greasing with equal parts of lard and tallow, or tallow and neat's foot oil.
If shoes be treated in this manner, and a row of round-headed shoe nails be driven around the edge of the soles, they will wear like copper, and always set easy to the feet. Boots and shoes should be treated as suggested, and worn a little several months before they are put to daily service. They should be cleaned frequently, whether they are worn or not. and should never be put to stand in a damp place, nor be put too near the fire to dry. In cleaning, be careful to brush the dirt from the seams, and not to scrape in with a knife, or you will cut the stitches. Let the hard brush do its work thoroughly well, and the polish will be all the brighter. Do not put on too much blacking at a time, for if it dries before using the shining brush the leather will look brown instead of black.
BOOTS AND SHOES, India Rubber, Water Proof for.—Spermaceti, 4 parts; India rubber (small), I part. Melt with a gentle heat, then add tallow or lard, 10 parts; amber or copal varnish, $ parts. Well mix and apply the composition to the leather with a paint-brush. Cut the rubber into very small pieces, and let it take its time to dissolve, say four or five hours.
BOOTS (White Jean) To Clean.—-If you have not boottrees, stuff the boot as full as possible with common cotton wadding or old rags, to prevent any creases; then mix some pipeclay with water to rather a stiff paste, wash the jean boots with soap and water and a nail-brush, using as little water as possible to get the dirt off. When they look tolerably clean rub the pipeclay with a flannel well over them and hang them to dry. When dry beat out the superfluous clay with the hand and rub them till they look smooth. Flake white may also be used.
BOOTS, KID, To Clean.—-If the kid boots are not very soiled they may be cleaned in the following manner:—Put half an ounce of hartshorn into a saucer, dip a bit of clean flannel in it and rub it on a piece of white card soap ; rub the boots with this, and as each piece of flannel becomes soiled, take a fresh piece; the boots will look like new.
BOOTS, KID, To Restore color of.—Take a small quantity of good black ink, mix it with the white of an egg, and apply it to the boots with a soft sponge.
BOOTS, KID, To Soften.—Melt a quarter of a pound of tallow, then pour it into ajar, and add to it the same weight of olive oil, stir, and let it standstill; apply a small quantity occasionally with a piece of flannel. Should the boots be very dirty, cleanse with warm water. It will soften any leather.
BOOTS, PEGGED, To Prevent Ripping.— Pegged boots, it is stated, if occasionally dressed with petroleum between the soles and the upper leather, will not rip. If the soles of boots or shoes are dressed with petroleum they will resist wet and wear well. The pegs, it is said, are not affected by dryness after being well saturated with this liquid.
BOOTS, (PATENT LEATHER), Care of. —The old plan of washing them with milk is simply absurd—a waste of time. If they crack, brush a little blacking into the cracks, and then rub them over with French polish, or common furniture polish, using the finger to lay on the polish, and a soft dry rag to finish off with. In lieu of furniture polish, a mixture of sweet oil and turpentine will answer. This treatment will preserve their bright polish until they are utterly worn out.
BOOT LEATHER, Preservation
BOOTS AND SHOES(Summcr) ToPreserve though the Winter.—Wash the blacking off; let them dry; then oil them with castor or neatsfoot oil. When you wear them they will be soft and pliable, and will last longer if preserved in this way. After you have worn them a few days they are ready for blacking.
BOOTS AND SHOES, (RUBBER), To Mend.—I. Get apiece of pure rubber—an old shoe—vulcanized rubber will not do; cut it into small bits. Put it into a bottle, and cover to twice its depth with spirits of turpentine or refined coal tar naphtha—not petroleum naphtha. Stop the bottle and set one side, shaking it frequently. The rubber will soon dissolve. Then take the shoe and press the rip or cut close together, and put on tlie rubber solution with a camel's hair brush. Continue to apply so fast as it dries until a thorough coating is formed. Spirits of turpentine dissolves the rubber slowest, but forms the most elastic cement.—2. Purchase a can of rubber cement, which can be found in large cities at rubber stores; also some rubber for patches, as new rubber is much better than old boots or shoes. To make the patches adhere, it is necessary to remove the cloth from them. To do this, moisten the cloth with benzine and remove immediately. Cut the patches the proper size to cover the hole in the boot. Make the boot around the hole rough, the size of the patch, with a wood or shoemakers file; apply the cement to the boot, and the patch with a case knife, and let them lie in a warm, dry room from thirty to sixty minutes; then put the patch on the boot, and press it down firmly. Be very particular about the edges of the patch. After it has been on a short time examine it again, to see that it has not started off; if it has, press it down again. Do not use the boot under forty-eight hours after the patch is put on. One fifty cent can of cement will last a family several years. Keep the cover on the can when not in use, as it dries up very quickly. If the cement becomes dry, cut it with benzine.
BOOTS,SQUEAKING,ToPrevent.—Squeaking boots or shoes are a great annoyance, especially in entering a sick room, or a church after the service has commenced. To remedy it, boil linseed oil and saturate the soles with the same.
BOOTS AND SHOES, (Soles of) To Make Waterproof.—Experience has proved that a coat of gum copal varnish applied to the soles of boots and shoes, and repeated as it dries, until the pores are filled and the surface shines like polished mahagony, will make the soles waterfiroof, and also cause them to last three times as ong as ordinary soles.
BOOTS AND SHOES, Water.pr oof-composition for.—Boiled oil 1 pint; oil of turpentine, black rosin, and bees' wax, of each 3 oz. Melt the wax and rosin, then stir in the oil, remove the pot from the fire, and when it has cooled a little, add the turpentine.
Wednesday, October 26, 2016
Apples
Some may be wondering why I take up so much time with food and recipes. There are several reasons, refrigeration was non existent for most of the 19th century, Food preparation was also different, and yet we find some of the recipes are very similar to ones we use today. Preparing for the winter wasn't having so much money in hand to go to the grocery store once a week. As a fiction writer, I'm always looking for unique tidbits that help the reader be sent back to that time period. With that in mind, here is a post about Apples.
This is taken from "A cyclopaedia of several thousand practical reciepts:" ©1846
APPLE. The apple is a wholesome and pleasant fruit when perfectly ripe, and may be eaten either raw, roasted, or boiled. The more aromatic and flavored varieties are well adapted for dessert fruit, and are especially useful to persons of a full or confined habit of body.
APPLE-FOOL. Put the peeled and cored fruit into a jar, with moist sugar to render it palatable, and a very little cider or perry ; place the jar in a saucepan of water over the fire, and continue tho heat until the apples become quite soft, then pulp them through a colander, and add a sufficient quantity of milk, a little cream, und sugar to complete the sweetening. Mix well.
APPLES A LA CREMONA. Prep. Cut the best cooking apples into small squares, until you have about 1 1/2 lb., strew over them 1 lb. of good moist sugar and several long strips of lemonpeel, then cover them up close in a bowl. Next day put the apples, piece by piece, into a small stewpan, with 3 or 4 tablespoonfuls of cider or perry, and simmer gently until they become clear : then take them out, and when cold build a wall round a small dish with the square pieces, place the strips of lemon-peel on the top, and pour the sirup into the middle.
APPLES, DRIED. Syn. Baked Apples. Prep. Place any quantity of apples in a cool oven, 6 or 7 times in succession, flattening them each time by gentle pressure, gradually applied, as soon as they are soft enough to bear it; then take them out, and as soon as cold put them on clean dishes or glass plates. The sour or tart variety of apples is the best for baking.
APPLES And PEARS, PRESERVATION OF. One of the best ways to preserve valuable fruit of this description, is to wrap each in a piece of clean dry paper, and to fill small wide-mouthed jars or honey-pots therewith, and to pack them in the following manner, in a dry and very cold place, (as a cellar,) but where the frost cannot reach them. The pots, of the shape of fig. 1, are placed in rows one in the other, as in fig. 2, and the space (a) between the two pots filled up with plaster of Paris made into a paste with water; the joint is thus rendered air-tight, and the fruit will i keep good for a long time. The mouth of the top jar should be covered with a slate.
Remarks. The fruit should not be too ripe for the purpose of being preserved; and the later sort is the best. The jars may be taken one at a time from the store-room, us wanted, and the fruit exposed for a week or ten days in a warm dry room before being eaten, which will much improve the flavor. Another plan, which is a modification of the above, is to place alternate layers of bran or clean dry sand and apples, either naked or wrapped in paper, in jars, until they are full, then to shake them well to settle the bran between the fruit, and to add more if required; they are then packed away as before described.
II. Fruit is kept in the large way for the London market by placing in a cool situation, first a layer of straw or paper, then a layer of apples, next a layer of straw, and so on alternately, to the bright of 20 to 25 inches, which cannot be well exceeded, as the weight of the superincumbent fruit would be apt to crush or injure the lower layers. This plan is frequently modified by placing alternate layers of fruit and paper in baskets or hampers, and covering them well over before placing them in the fruit-room. The baskets may then be piled one over the other without injury to the fruit.
Remarks. Apples or other fruit intended for preserving in the above way should never be laid in heaps or allowed to touch each other, as they thereby acquire a bad flavor. They should be gathered in dry weather and immediately carried In the fruit-room, when they should be laid, if not singly, at least thinly, on the floor or shelves, on paper, and packed away as soon as possible. The use of brown paper is inadmissible, as it conveys its peculiar flavor to the fruit. Thick white brown paper is the cheapest and the best.
III. (American Method) The apples or pears, after being peeled, are cut into eighths, the cores extracted, and then dried in the sun or in a kiln or oven until they are quite hard. Remarks. In this way fruit is kept in the United States for two or three years.
For use, wash the fruit in water, then pour boiling water on it; let it stand for a few minutes, and use it as fresh fruit. The water it has soaked in is an excellent substitute for fresh juice.
APPLE SUGAR. Prep. Express the juice, and add chalk until the whole of the acid is saturated ; pour off the clear liquor; then clarify by boiling in a clean pan with some white of egg; skim off" the dirt; and lastly evaporate by a gentle heat to a proper consistence. Remarks. 1 cwt of apples yield about 84 lbs. of juice and 12 lbs. of crude sugar.
This is taken from "A cyclopaedia of several thousand practical reciepts:" ©1846
APPLE. The apple is a wholesome and pleasant fruit when perfectly ripe, and may be eaten either raw, roasted, or boiled. The more aromatic and flavored varieties are well adapted for dessert fruit, and are especially useful to persons of a full or confined habit of body.
APPLE-FOOL. Put the peeled and cored fruit into a jar, with moist sugar to render it palatable, and a very little cider or perry ; place the jar in a saucepan of water over the fire, and continue tho heat until the apples become quite soft, then pulp them through a colander, and add a sufficient quantity of milk, a little cream, und sugar to complete the sweetening. Mix well.
APPLES A LA CREMONA. Prep. Cut the best cooking apples into small squares, until you have about 1 1/2 lb., strew over them 1 lb. of good moist sugar and several long strips of lemonpeel, then cover them up close in a bowl. Next day put the apples, piece by piece, into a small stewpan, with 3 or 4 tablespoonfuls of cider or perry, and simmer gently until they become clear : then take them out, and when cold build a wall round a small dish with the square pieces, place the strips of lemon-peel on the top, and pour the sirup into the middle.
APPLES, DRIED. Syn. Baked Apples. Prep. Place any quantity of apples in a cool oven, 6 or 7 times in succession, flattening them each time by gentle pressure, gradually applied, as soon as they are soft enough to bear it; then take them out, and as soon as cold put them on clean dishes or glass plates. The sour or tart variety of apples is the best for baking.
APPLES And PEARS, PRESERVATION OF. One of the best ways to preserve valuable fruit of this description, is to wrap each in a piece of clean dry paper, and to fill small wide-mouthed jars or honey-pots therewith, and to pack them in the following manner, in a dry and very cold place, (as a cellar,) but where the frost cannot reach them. The pots, of the shape of fig. 1, are placed in rows one in the other, as in fig. 2, and the space (a) between the two pots filled up with plaster of Paris made into a paste with water; the joint is thus rendered air-tight, and the fruit will i keep good for a long time. The mouth of the top jar should be covered with a slate.
Remarks. The fruit should not be too ripe for the purpose of being preserved; and the later sort is the best. The jars may be taken one at a time from the store-room, us wanted, and the fruit exposed for a week or ten days in a warm dry room before being eaten, which will much improve the flavor. Another plan, which is a modification of the above, is to place alternate layers of bran or clean dry sand and apples, either naked or wrapped in paper, in jars, until they are full, then to shake them well to settle the bran between the fruit, and to add more if required; they are then packed away as before described.
II. Fruit is kept in the large way for the London market by placing in a cool situation, first a layer of straw or paper, then a layer of apples, next a layer of straw, and so on alternately, to the bright of 20 to 25 inches, which cannot be well exceeded, as the weight of the superincumbent fruit would be apt to crush or injure the lower layers. This plan is frequently modified by placing alternate layers of fruit and paper in baskets or hampers, and covering them well over before placing them in the fruit-room. The baskets may then be piled one over the other without injury to the fruit.
Remarks. Apples or other fruit intended for preserving in the above way should never be laid in heaps or allowed to touch each other, as they thereby acquire a bad flavor. They should be gathered in dry weather and immediately carried In the fruit-room, when they should be laid, if not singly, at least thinly, on the floor or shelves, on paper, and packed away as soon as possible. The use of brown paper is inadmissible, as it conveys its peculiar flavor to the fruit. Thick white brown paper is the cheapest and the best.
III. (American Method) The apples or pears, after being peeled, are cut into eighths, the cores extracted, and then dried in the sun or in a kiln or oven until they are quite hard. Remarks. In this way fruit is kept in the United States for two or three years.
For use, wash the fruit in water, then pour boiling water on it; let it stand for a few minutes, and use it as fresh fruit. The water it has soaked in is an excellent substitute for fresh juice.
APPLE SUGAR. Prep. Express the juice, and add chalk until the whole of the acid is saturated ; pour off the clear liquor; then clarify by boiling in a clean pan with some white of egg; skim off" the dirt; and lastly evaporate by a gentle heat to a proper consistence. Remarks. 1 cwt of apples yield about 84 lbs. of juice and 12 lbs. of crude sugar.
Thursday, October 20, 2016
Curing Pork
Preserving food was a changing art in the 19th century, and very different from today. Today we simply go to the market and purchase whatever variety of meat we'd like for our dinners. Butcher Shops were not uncommon in the 19th century but many also had to prepare their own meat from the farm. Below is a section from Mrs. Hale's new cook book: By Sarah Josepha Buell Hale ©1857 It's a good description of the various ways to prepare pork.
Curing Pork.—The pork being killed, several points require attention —first, the chitterlings must be cleaned, and all the fat taken off; they are then to be soaked for two or three day* in four or six waters, and the fat may be melted for softening shoes, &c.; the inside fat, or flare, of pork must be melted for lard as soon as possible, without salt, if for pastry. The souse should be salted for two or three days, and then boiled till tender ; or fried, or broiled, after being boiled. The sides for bacon must be wiped, rubbed at the bone, and sprinkled with salt, to extract the blood : the chines, cheeks, and spare-ribs, should be similarly salted. On the third day after pork is killed, it may be regularly salted, tubs or pans being placed to receive the brine, which is useful for chines and tongues. December and January are the best months for preparing bacon, as the frost is not then too severe.
The hog is made into bacon, or pickled.
Bacon—(The method of airing Malines Bacon, so much ad mired for its fine flavor).—Cut off the hams and head of a pig, if a large one; takeout the chine and leave in the spare-rib, as they will keep in the gravy and prevent the bacon from rusting. Salt it first with common salt, and let it lie for a day on a table that the blood may run from it; then make a brine with a pint of bay-salt, one-quarter peck of common salt, about one-quarter pound of juniper-berries, and some bay-leaves, with as much water as will, when the brine is made, cover the bacon; when the salt is dissolved, and when quite cold, if a new-laid egg will swim in it, the brine may be put on the ba con, which after a week must be rubbed with the following mixture:—Half pound of saltpetre, 2 oz. of sal-prunella, and 1 pound of coarse sugar; after remaining 4 weeks, it may be hung up in a chimney where wood is burned; shavings, with •awdust and a small quantity of turf, may be added to the fire at times.
Westphalia Hams—Are prepared in November and March. The Germans place them in deep tubs, which they cover with «vers of salt and saltpetre, and a few laurel-leaves. They ar« left four or five days in this state, and then are compk-tcly covered with strong brine. At the end of three weeks, they are taken out, and soaked twelve hours in clear spring water • they are then hung for three weeks in smoke, produ"-.ed from the branches of juniper-plants.
Another method is to rub the leg intended for a bun with half a pound of coarse sugar, and to lay it aside for a night. In the morning, it is rubbed with an ounce of saltpetre, and an ounce of common salt, mixed. It is then turned daily for throe weeks, and afterwards dried in wood and turf-smoke. When boiled, a pint of oak saw-dust is directed to be put into the pot or boiler.
Obs.—Dried meats, hams, &c., should be kept in a cold bui not damp place.
Smoked provisions keep better than those which are dried on account of the pyroligneous acid which the former recei\v from the smoke.
Hams superior to Westphalia.—Take the hams as soon as the pork is sufficiently cold to be cut up, rub them well wit! common salt, and leave them for three days to drain; throw away the brine, and for a couple of hatns of from fifteen to eighteen pounds' weight, mix together two ounces of saltpetre, a pound of coarse sugar, and a pound of common salt; rub the hams in every part with these, lay them into deeppieklinf;paus with the riud downwards, and keep them for three days well covered with the salt and sugar; then pour over them a bottle of good vinegar, and turn them in the brine, and baste them with it daily for a mouth; drain them well, nib them with bran, and let them be hung for a month high in a chimney over a wood-fire to be smoked.
Hams, of from 15 to 18 Ibs. each, 2; to drain, 3 days. Common salt and coarse sugar, each 1 Ib.; saltpetre, 2 ozs.: 3 jays. Vinegar, 1 bottle: 1 month. To be smoked 1 month.
Obs.—Such of our readers as shall make trial of this admirable receipt, will acknowledge, we doubt not, that the hams thus cured are in reality superior to those of Westphalia. It was originally given to the public by the celebrated French cook, Monsieur Ude, to whom, after having proved it, we are happy to acknowledge o'tr obligation for it. lie directs that the hams when smoked should be hung as high as possible from the fire, that the fat may not be melted ;—a very necea. sary precaution, as the mode of their being cured renders it peculiarly liable to do so. This, indeed, is somewhat perceptible in the cooking, which ought, therefore, to be conducted with especial care. The hams should be very softly simmered, and uot over-done. They should be large, and of finely-fed pork, or the receipt will not answer. We give the result of out first trial of it, which was perfectly successful.
Leg of farm-house pork, 14 to 15 Ibs.; saltpetre, 1^ oz. • strong coarse salt, 6 ozs.; coarse sugar, 8 ozs.: 3 days. Fine white-wine vinegar, 1 pint. In pickle, turned daily, 1 month. Smoked over wood, 1 month.
Obs.—When two hams are pickled together, a smaller proportion of the ingredients is required for each than for one which is cured by itself. .
Curing Pork.—The pork being killed, several points require attention —first, the chitterlings must be cleaned, and all the fat taken off; they are then to be soaked for two or three day* in four or six waters, and the fat may be melted for softening shoes, &c.; the inside fat, or flare, of pork must be melted for lard as soon as possible, without salt, if for pastry. The souse should be salted for two or three days, and then boiled till tender ; or fried, or broiled, after being boiled. The sides for bacon must be wiped, rubbed at the bone, and sprinkled with salt, to extract the blood : the chines, cheeks, and spare-ribs, should be similarly salted. On the third day after pork is killed, it may be regularly salted, tubs or pans being placed to receive the brine, which is useful for chines and tongues. December and January are the best months for preparing bacon, as the frost is not then too severe.
The hog is made into bacon, or pickled.
Bacon—(The method of airing Malines Bacon, so much ad mired for its fine flavor).—Cut off the hams and head of a pig, if a large one; takeout the chine and leave in the spare-rib, as they will keep in the gravy and prevent the bacon from rusting. Salt it first with common salt, and let it lie for a day on a table that the blood may run from it; then make a brine with a pint of bay-salt, one-quarter peck of common salt, about one-quarter pound of juniper-berries, and some bay-leaves, with as much water as will, when the brine is made, cover the bacon; when the salt is dissolved, and when quite cold, if a new-laid egg will swim in it, the brine may be put on the ba con, which after a week must be rubbed with the following mixture:—Half pound of saltpetre, 2 oz. of sal-prunella, and 1 pound of coarse sugar; after remaining 4 weeks, it may be hung up in a chimney where wood is burned; shavings, with •awdust and a small quantity of turf, may be added to the fire at times.
Westphalia Hams—Are prepared in November and March. The Germans place them in deep tubs, which they cover with «vers of salt and saltpetre, and a few laurel-leaves. They ar« left four or five days in this state, and then are compk-tcly covered with strong brine. At the end of three weeks, they are taken out, and soaked twelve hours in clear spring water • they are then hung for three weeks in smoke, produ"-.ed from the branches of juniper-plants.
Another method is to rub the leg intended for a bun with half a pound of coarse sugar, and to lay it aside for a night. In the morning, it is rubbed with an ounce of saltpetre, and an ounce of common salt, mixed. It is then turned daily for throe weeks, and afterwards dried in wood and turf-smoke. When boiled, a pint of oak saw-dust is directed to be put into the pot or boiler.
Obs.—Dried meats, hams, &c., should be kept in a cold bui not damp place.
Smoked provisions keep better than those which are dried on account of the pyroligneous acid which the former recei\v from the smoke.
Hams superior to Westphalia.—Take the hams as soon as the pork is sufficiently cold to be cut up, rub them well wit! common salt, and leave them for three days to drain; throw away the brine, and for a couple of hatns of from fifteen to eighteen pounds' weight, mix together two ounces of saltpetre, a pound of coarse sugar, and a pound of common salt; rub the hams in every part with these, lay them into deeppieklinf;paus with the riud downwards, and keep them for three days well covered with the salt and sugar; then pour over them a bottle of good vinegar, and turn them in the brine, and baste them with it daily for a mouth; drain them well, nib them with bran, and let them be hung for a month high in a chimney over a wood-fire to be smoked.
Hams, of from 15 to 18 Ibs. each, 2; to drain, 3 days. Common salt and coarse sugar, each 1 Ib.; saltpetre, 2 ozs.: 3 jays. Vinegar, 1 bottle: 1 month. To be smoked 1 month.
Obs.—Such of our readers as shall make trial of this admirable receipt, will acknowledge, we doubt not, that the hams thus cured are in reality superior to those of Westphalia. It was originally given to the public by the celebrated French cook, Monsieur Ude, to whom, after having proved it, we are happy to acknowledge o'tr obligation for it. lie directs that the hams when smoked should be hung as high as possible from the fire, that the fat may not be melted ;—a very necea. sary precaution, as the mode of their being cured renders it peculiarly liable to do so. This, indeed, is somewhat perceptible in the cooking, which ought, therefore, to be conducted with especial care. The hams should be very softly simmered, and uot over-done. They should be large, and of finely-fed pork, or the receipt will not answer. We give the result of out first trial of it, which was perfectly successful.
Leg of farm-house pork, 14 to 15 Ibs.; saltpetre, 1^ oz. • strong coarse salt, 6 ozs.; coarse sugar, 8 ozs.: 3 days. Fine white-wine vinegar, 1 pint. In pickle, turned daily, 1 month. Smoked over wood, 1 month.
Obs.—When two hams are pickled together, a smaller proportion of the ingredients is required for each than for one which is cured by itself. .
Wednesday, October 12, 2016
How to Preserve Eggs
From Houghtalings Handbook ©1887
To each pailful of water, add two pints of fresh slacked lime, and one pint of common salt; mix well. Fill your barrel half full with this fluid, put your eggs down in it any time after June, and they will keep two years if desired.
So, I looked up slacked lime. Here's a link to wikipedia if you'd like to read further. Today slaked lime is called calcium hydroxide and is found in soft drinks.
I decided to find another source and came across "The New Family Receipt-book ©1820 and found these three entries below.
394. To preserve Eggs sound for the space of Two Years,
For the following process, for keeping and preserving eggs perfectly sound, a patent was granted in February, 1791, to Mr. Jayne, of Sheffield, Yorkshire :
Put into a tub or vessel one bushel, Winchester measure, of quicklime, thirty-two ounces of salt, eight ounces of cream of tartar, and mix the same together with as much water as will reduce the composition, or mixture, to that consistence, that it will cause an egg put into it to swim with its top just above the liquid : then put, and keep the eggs therein, which will preserve them perfectly sound for the space of two years at the least.
This method is not the worse for being simple, and the still simpler one of merely keeping eggs in salt, is known by many good housewives to preserve eggs quite sound for a considerable time.
395. Manner of preserving Eggs perfectly fresh, for Twelve Months.
Having provided small casks, like oyster barrels, fill them with fresh laid eggs ; then pour into each cask, the head of which is supposed to have been first taken out, as much cold thick lime-water as will fill up all the void spaces between the eggs, and likewise completely cover them. The thicker the lime-water is the better, provided it will fill up all the interstices, and be liquid at the top of the cask ; this done, lay on the head of the cask lightly. No farther care is necessary, than merely to prevent the lime from growing toe hard, by adding, occasionally, a little common water on the surface, should it seem so disposed, and keeping the casks from heat and frost. The eggs, when taken out for use, are to be washed from the adhering lime with a little cold water, when they will have both the appearance and qualities of fresh laid eggs, the lime preserving them from shrinking or putridity.
396. Manner of preserving Eggs perfectly fresh,
for Twelve Months.
The most simple and easy mode of preserving eggs is to rub the outside of the shell as soon as gathered from the nest, with a little butter, or any other grease that is not fetid. By tilling up the pores of the shell, the evaporation of the liquid part of the egg is prevented ; and either by that means, or by excluding the external air, which Fourcroy supposes destroys the milkiness which most people are fond of in new-laid eggs, that milkiness will be preserved for months, as perfect as when the egg was taken from the nest.
Wednesday, October 5, 2016
Ice Box Refrigeration
Below are some interesting facts regarding refrigeration using an icebox. Often times today we think of those in the 19th century of not having refrigeration. And in terms of what we have today, that's somewhat true. However, below I've listed a few facts to help us rethink what our ancestors might have been using in the 19th century.
A lawsuit: Alaska Refrigerator Co. v. Wisconsin Refrigerator Co. et al. (Circuit Court, AT. D. Illinois. July 13,1891.)
Dealt with a patent violation: Here's the facts. The original patent No. 8,463, reissued October 22, 1878 and originally issued July 24th, 1877.
In another lawsuit it states "The original letters patent were granted to Azel S. Lyman, as inventor, Mar. 25, 1856 and were extended for seven years from Mar. 25, 1879 and were reissued to Lyman, Dec. 26, 1871 ...
This notes that the ice box was patented as early as 1856.
According to Ellen Plante in her book "The American Kitchen." She states that iceboxes were available in 1860 but not widely used until 1880.
In 1864 we have reference to the Refrigerator (icebox) in "The American Home cook Book: with several hundred excellent recipes by American Lady ©1864.
A lawsuit: Alaska Refrigerator Co. v. Wisconsin Refrigerator Co. et al. (Circuit Court, AT. D. Illinois. July 13,1891.)
Dealt with a patent violation: Here's the facts. The original patent No. 8,463, reissued October 22, 1878 and originally issued July 24th, 1877.
In another lawsuit it states "The original letters patent were granted to Azel S. Lyman, as inventor, Mar. 25, 1856 and were extended for seven years from Mar. 25, 1879 and were reissued to Lyman, Dec. 26, 1871 ...
This notes that the ice box was patented as early as 1856.
According to Ellen Plante in her book "The American Kitchen." She states that iceboxes were available in 1860 but not widely used until 1880.
In 1864 we have reference to the Refrigerator (icebox) in "The American Home cook Book: with several hundred excellent recipes by American Lady ©1864.
Friday, September 16, 2016
Cheese
Below is an excerpt from "The Centennial Cook Book and General Guide ©1876
CHEESE MAKING
The materials employed in making cheese, are the curd formed from milk and rennet; but certain processes are requisite to the due preparation of it. It is necessary for this purpose that the curd, which is the basis of cheese, and exists not in the cream, but in the milk, be separated from it. This is done by artificial coagulation, and when the curd is entirely freed from the whey, by means of pressing and otherwise, it becomes cheese, and will keep for a great length of time free from all danger of decomposition.
TO PREPARE RENNET TO TURN MILK.
Take out the stomach of a calf as soon as killed, and scour it inside and out with salt. After it is cleared of the curds always found in it, let it drain a few hours; then sew it up with two handsful of salt in it, or stretch it on a stick, well salted; or keep it in the salt wet, and soak a piece for use, which will do over and over again by washing it in fresh water.
TEMPARATURB AMD PREPARATION OF-MILK. The milk intended for cheese as well as for butter ought to be carefully passed through a fine canvas sieve, to deprive it of any impurities, such as hairs, etc. That which is produced at a single milking is the best, and when brought warm from the cow it is the more readily effected by the rennet. The natural heat it possesses when taken from the udder is from eighty-five to ninety degrees. If it is below eighty-five degrees it must be raised to that temperature either by mixing hot water with the milk, or placing a vessel containing some of the milk in a copper of boiling water, and mixing the milk so heated with the rest. Much of the success of cheese-making depends upon the milk being of a proper degree of heat when the rennet is put into it.
PROCESS OF MAKING.
Put the milk into a large tub, warming a part till it is of a natural degree of temperature, same as described in above paragraph. Put in as much rennet as will turn it, and cover it over. Let it stand till completely turned; then strike the curd down several times with the skimming-dish and let it separate, still covering it. There are two modes of breaking the curd, and there will be a difference in the the taste of the cheese, according as either is observed ; one is to gather it with the hands very gently towards the side of the tub, letting the whey pass through the fingers till it is cleared, and ladeling it off as it collects ; the other is to get the whey from it by early breaking the curd. The last method deprives it of many of its oily particles and is therefore less proper.
Put the vat on a ladder over the tub, and fill it with curd by a skimmer, press the curd close with your hand, and add more as it sinks, and it must be finally left two inches above the edge. Before the vat is filled, the cheese-cloth must be laid at the bottom, and when full drawn smooth over on all sides.
There are two modes of salting cheese : one by mixing salt in the curd while in the tub after the whey is out: and the other by putting it into the vat and crumbling the curd all to pieced with it after the first squeezing with the hands has dried it. The first method appears best on some accounts, but not on all, and therefore the custom of the country must direct. Put a board under and over the vat, and place it in the press; in two hours turn it out, and put a fresh cheese-cloth, press it again for eight or nine hours, then salt it all over, and turn it again in the vat, and let it stand in the press fourteen or sixteen hours, observing to put the cheeses last made, undermost. Before putting them the last time into the vat pare the edges if they do not look smooth. The vat should have holes at the sides and at the bottom to let all the whey pass through. It now only remains to wash the outside of the cheese in warm whey or water, wipe it dry, color it with annatto, and place it in a cool place to mature or ripen.
TO MAKE CREAM CHEESE.
This is made from the last of the milk drawn from the cow at each milking, or of a mixture of milk and cream. It is usually made up into small pieces, and a gentle pressure applied to press out the whey. After twelve hours it is placed upon a board or wooden trencher, and turned every day, until dried. In about three weeks it will be ripe. Nothing but raw cream, turned with a little rennet, is employed, when a very rich cheese is wanted. A little salt is generally added, and frequently a little powdered sugar. The vats employed for cream cheeses are usually square, and of small size.
TO MAKE SAGE CHEESE.
Bruise the tops of young sage in a mortar, with some leaves of spinach, and squeeze the juice ; mix it with the rennet in the milk, more or less, according as you like for color and taste. When the curd is come, break it gently, and put it in with the skimmer, till it is pressed two inches above one vat. Press it eight or ten hours. Salt it, and turn every day.
DUTCH CHEESE.
Muriatic acid is used to coagulate the milk instead of rennet, and this is said to impart the pungent taste peculiar to the Dutch cheese, and also to preserve it from mites. Much of the Dutch cheese is made of skimmed milk, and is intended for sea stores, as it keeps well, from being much less rich than the higher class cheese.
ROOM FOB CURING CHEESE.
A dark room is not best adapted for curing cheese. Cheese should be exposed to light to obtain the best flavor, and besides it can be examined more minutely from time to time, and freed from the depredations of the skipper. The best means to protect cheese from these pests is to make a mixture of oil and Cayenne pepper, and apply it to the outside of the cheese, as may be required.
TO PRESERVE CHEESE SOUND.
Wash in warm whey, when you have any, and wipe it once a month and keep it on a rack. If you want to ripen it quick, a damp cellar will bring it forward. When a whole cheese is fresh cut, the larger quantity should be spread with butter inside, and the outside wiped to preserve it. To keep those in daily use moist, let a clean cloth be wrung out from cold water, and wrapt round them when carried from table. Dry cheese may be used to advantage to grate for serving with macaroni or eating without. These observations are made with a view to make the above articles less expensive, as in most families where much is used there is waste.
Friday, September 9, 2016
Catsups Continued
Well after posting yesterday about Catsup I discovered there were other catsups in The Home Cook Book ©1876 Below are the other recipes. I've never heard or tasted these condiments if you have please share your thoughts.
FRUIT CATSUP.
Mrs. John R. Csborn,
Five pounds of fruit, two of sugar, one pint of vinegar, one tablespoonful of salt, one teaspoon of pepper, one tablespoon of allspice, one of cinnamon. Mash and boil until thick.
GRAPE OR GOOSEBERRY CATSUP.
Mrs. D. N. Trowbridge and Mrs. Sarah Bissell.
Nine pounds of fruit, six of sugar, one of vinegar; put in a little bag of cloves and cinnamon. Boil three hours.
GRAPE CATSUP.
Mrs. J. B. Baldy.
Boil the grapes until the seeds separate, then to every quart allow one teaspoon of cinnamon, one of mace, one-half of cloves. Strain and add one pound of sugar for every quart; thin to proper consistency with sharp vinegar or wine.
LEMON CATSUP.
Marion Harland.
Grate the rind of twelve large fresh lemons; pound or grind four tablespoons of white mustard seed, one of turmeric, one of white pepper, one teaspoon of cloves, one of mace, and one salt- spoon cayenne; add two tablespoonfuls of white sugar, two of grated horseradish, one shallot minced fine, the juice of the lemons, two tablespoons of table salt, and then let it stand three hours^n a cool place, then boil up in a porcelain kettle for half an hour; pour into a covered china or earthen vessel. Let it stand a fortnight, stirring well every day, then strain, bottle, and seal.
FRUIT CATSUP.
Mrs. John R. Csborn,
Five pounds of fruit, two of sugar, one pint of vinegar, one tablespoonful of salt, one teaspoon of pepper, one tablespoon of allspice, one of cinnamon. Mash and boil until thick.
GRAPE OR GOOSEBERRY CATSUP.
Mrs. D. N. Trowbridge and Mrs. Sarah Bissell.
Nine pounds of fruit, six of sugar, one of vinegar; put in a little bag of cloves and cinnamon. Boil three hours.
GRAPE CATSUP.
Mrs. J. B. Baldy.
Boil the grapes until the seeds separate, then to every quart allow one teaspoon of cinnamon, one of mace, one-half of cloves. Strain and add one pound of sugar for every quart; thin to proper consistency with sharp vinegar or wine.
LEMON CATSUP.
Marion Harland.
Grate the rind of twelve large fresh lemons; pound or grind four tablespoons of white mustard seed, one of turmeric, one of white pepper, one teaspoon of cloves, one of mace, and one salt- spoon cayenne; add two tablespoonfuls of white sugar, two of grated horseradish, one shallot minced fine, the juice of the lemons, two tablespoons of table salt, and then let it stand three hours^n a cool place, then boil up in a porcelain kettle for half an hour; pour into a covered china or earthen vessel. Let it stand a fortnight, stirring well every day, then strain, bottle, and seal.
Tomato Catsup
I don't know about you but I purchase my ketcup at the store. However, our last church there was a gal who made her own and let me tell you, it was fantastic. Below is a recipe from The Godey's Lady's Book Receipts and Household Hints © 1870
Tomato Catsup--Take six pounds of tomatoes, sprinkle them with salt, let them remain for a day or two, then boil them until the skins will separate easily; press them through a colander or coarse sieve, leaving the skins behind. Put into the liquor a handful of shalots, a pint of Chili vinegar, a pint of wine, salt, pepper, cloves, ginger, and allspice. Boil all together until a third is wasted, bottle it, and when it is cold cork the bottles very well. Shake it before using it. Good either for sauce or for flavoring.
end quote
Chili vinegar is a new one on me, basically you take dried chilies and a couple cups of white vinegar combine and let them mix. For a coarse sieve I'd use my grandmother's food mill. What surprises me is that in this cook book they don't give out measurements. There are several recipes that have some measurements but it seems when it comes to food items that are people's personal preferences, they (the cook book) assumes the cook knows what kind of portions to use.
In another cookbook The Home Cook Book ©1876 I found two other recipes for tomato catsup posted below. These are much better with regard to measurements.
TOMATO CATSUP.
Mrs. M. A. Beachl
Select well ripened tomatoes. Slice, cutting out defective parts. Put them over without peeling them. Boil one or two hours, or until quite soft; then strain, being careful to get all the pulp. To one gallon of tomatoes, thus strained, add four tablespoons of salt, one-half a teaspoon of red pepper, three tablespoons of mustard, two tablespoons of black pepper, one tablespoon of cinnamon, one of allspice, one of cloves. The salt, mustard, and pepper may be put at once into the tomatoes, but the dark spices should be simmered for one hour with one pint of vinegar, and then strained into the juice; add one heaping tablespoon of sugar. Bottle, and seal tightly.
TOMATO CATSUP.
Mrs. S. R. Gridley.
To one gallon of tomatoes add four tablespoons of salt, four of pepper, four of mustard, two of allspice, two of cloves, one pint of good vinegar. Boil down to half the quantity.
Well with tomatoes ripening in the garden I thought it might be fun to share how to make your own catsup. Enjoy!
Tomato Catsup--Take six pounds of tomatoes, sprinkle them with salt, let them remain for a day or two, then boil them until the skins will separate easily; press them through a colander or coarse sieve, leaving the skins behind. Put into the liquor a handful of shalots, a pint of Chili vinegar, a pint of wine, salt, pepper, cloves, ginger, and allspice. Boil all together until a third is wasted, bottle it, and when it is cold cork the bottles very well. Shake it before using it. Good either for sauce or for flavoring.
end quote
Chili vinegar is a new one on me, basically you take dried chilies and a couple cups of white vinegar combine and let them mix. For a coarse sieve I'd use my grandmother's food mill. What surprises me is that in this cook book they don't give out measurements. There are several recipes that have some measurements but it seems when it comes to food items that are people's personal preferences, they (the cook book) assumes the cook knows what kind of portions to use.
In another cookbook The Home Cook Book ©1876 I found two other recipes for tomato catsup posted below. These are much better with regard to measurements.
TOMATO CATSUP.
Mrs. M. A. Beachl
Select well ripened tomatoes. Slice, cutting out defective parts. Put them over without peeling them. Boil one or two hours, or until quite soft; then strain, being careful to get all the pulp. To one gallon of tomatoes, thus strained, add four tablespoons of salt, one-half a teaspoon of red pepper, three tablespoons of mustard, two tablespoons of black pepper, one tablespoon of cinnamon, one of allspice, one of cloves. The salt, mustard, and pepper may be put at once into the tomatoes, but the dark spices should be simmered for one hour with one pint of vinegar, and then strained into the juice; add one heaping tablespoon of sugar. Bottle, and seal tightly.
TOMATO CATSUP.
Mrs. S. R. Gridley.
To one gallon of tomatoes add four tablespoons of salt, four of pepper, four of mustard, two of allspice, two of cloves, one pint of good vinegar. Boil down to half the quantity.
Well with tomatoes ripening in the garden I thought it might be fun to share how to make your own catsup. Enjoy!
Thursday, March 24, 2016
Saltville, VA
Below is an excerpt recording a man's travel and what he found in Saltville, VA. What I found interesting in this area was the Salt Farm where they pumped the salt up like water from a well then boiled it down to evaporate the water.
From Glade Springs I turned aside to Saltville, a busy town connected with the outer world by a branch railroad running in among the queer hill-knobs filled with plaster, and through the valleys where salt-wells are sunk. The country round about, until one reaches the Alleghany ridge, is not unlike that portion of England lying near Eastbourne, with its chalk hills sparsely covered with grass. Saltville is a neat manufacturing village, nestling in a valley near a defile in Walker's mountain. The basin of salt-water there yields nearly eighty per cent, and, ever since a Scotchman named King opened a well in 1780, the salines have been extensively worked. During the last war the Confederacy depended almost entirely upon these works for salt, and the tremendous draft of ten thousand bushels per day was promptly met by the wells. About two thousand men were constantly employed; the town was thoroughly fortified; each Southern State had its private establishment, and the various furnaces are to-day known by the names of the States which originally established them. There was some savage fighting along the mountain-sides, and in the defiles, when General Stoneman tried to force his way into Saltville and destroy the precious stores; but, after a severe repulse, he succeeded in gaining possession and burning everything. The stock company now owning and working the wells, manufacture but three thousand bushels of salt daily, sending it mainly to the Southern markets.
The stout negroes working over the boiling salt were both delighted and amazed when their pictures appeared in the artist's sketch-book; they had never seen "no such writin' befo'." Great stores of gypsum are annually mined and prepared for fertilizers in this valley, where also there are some superb model farms, well stocked and separated one from another by beautiful hedges. Not far from Saltville is Clinch mountain, over which the traveler to Tazewell county, a wonderfully' beautiful mountain region, must climb. The fighting around Saltville was severest at the time that Burbridge came from Kentucky, intending to break up the Confederate works there. It was, I believe, the first fight in which colored troops entered as an important element, and the slaughter of them, as they came struggling up the difficult hill-sides, is said by eye-witnesses to have been dreadful. About six thousand troops were engaged on each side.
Source: The Great South ©1875
From Glade Springs I turned aside to Saltville, a busy town connected with the outer world by a branch railroad running in among the queer hill-knobs filled with plaster, and through the valleys where salt-wells are sunk. The country round about, until one reaches the Alleghany ridge, is not unlike that portion of England lying near Eastbourne, with its chalk hills sparsely covered with grass. Saltville is a neat manufacturing village, nestling in a valley near a defile in Walker's mountain. The basin of salt-water there yields nearly eighty per cent, and, ever since a Scotchman named King opened a well in 1780, the salines have been extensively worked. During the last war the Confederacy depended almost entirely upon these works for salt, and the tremendous draft of ten thousand bushels per day was promptly met by the wells. About two thousand men were constantly employed; the town was thoroughly fortified; each Southern State had its private establishment, and the various furnaces are to-day known by the names of the States which originally established them. There was some savage fighting along the mountain-sides, and in the defiles, when General Stoneman tried to force his way into Saltville and destroy the precious stores; but, after a severe repulse, he succeeded in gaining possession and burning everything. The stock company now owning and working the wells, manufacture but three thousand bushels of salt daily, sending it mainly to the Southern markets.
Source: The Great South ©1875
Tuesday, March 15, 2016
Fruit for Drying
I first came across the figures in the second tidbit and was surprised by the amount and variety of fruit drying that was going on in California during the late 19th Century. I expected to see the grapes but not the other fruits. Below is an excerpt about drying the fruit, the second tidbit is about the amount produced in the state of California. Enjoy!
Drying fruit has several advantages over canning or bottling. It is cheaper ; it may be adopted on an extensive scale ; the fruit may be kept with less care ; and being several times lighter than when fresh, may be sent long distances, or to foreign countries, at a moderate cost. When fruit-growers shall learn that dried fruit from the highest flavored sorts is as much better than that from the poor unsaleable varieties so often used for this purpose, as the best fresh fruit of the one sort exceeds the other, purchasers will also be willing to pay a much higher price for the best article. When, superadded to this, the fruit is dried rapidly so as to retain a clear, light color, and a perfect flavor, instead of the dark, half fermented fruit resulting from slow drying in bad weather, there will be no difficulty in finding a ready sale for all that may be offered in market. When abundant seasons occur, the surplus should be saved by drying, and may be kept another year.
In some parts of the Western States, houses are erefited for drying fruit, and are warmed by fire heat, by means of a furnace with a fine extending around the building, similar to that formerly used for green-houses. This flue is covered with sheet iron. An ample ventilator is placed at the top for the free escape of the large volumes of watery vapor which rise from the drying fruit. Trays or hurdles, about two feet wide, six feet long, and three inches deep, with small strips or laths forming the bottom, are placed in three tiers, one above the other, with a foot or more of space between them. Long strips of scantling, laid horizontally, extending the whole length of the house, and six or eight feet outside, form a sort of railway track on which a frame with rollers runs in and out through a wide door, for running in the fresh fruit and bringing out the dried. A house, ten by fourteen feet, and eight feet high, has been found sufficient for about two barrels of fruit at a time, and about twenty-four hours complete the drying process.
Fig. 170 represents a small, portable, fruit-drying house, capable of being carried to the orchard, and used on the ground. It consists of a small building from two and a half to four feet square, or of any other convenient dimensions, the lower part covered with sheet iron to prevent danger from fire, and containing a small stove, extending through the house, from the rear of which passes the stove-pipe on the outside, the upper portion of which is seen in the figure. The fuel would be more completely economized by bringing the pipe back again, and passing it up on the same side as the door of the stove, reversing the place of the doors for introducing the shelves.
Source: The American Fruit Culturist ©1868
FRUIT FOR DRYING.
Fruit drying is now one of our recognized industries. That judgment, experience, and money are required in this branch of the fruit business in California goes without saying. The dried fruit markets of the United States furnish the greatest and most available outlet for the vast output of dried fruit, which is increasing in volume year by year.
The markets of the South Pacific Islands and Australia have been partially developed and are taking fair quantities of dried fruit this season. Our dried fruits are also being gradually introduced into the various large cities of Europe, several trial shipments, consisting of carloads of choice apricots and peaches, having been distributed in the Old World at good prices. A very large, profitable trade will certainly result from the proper introduction of California dried fruits into England. The output of dried fruit in this State from the crop of 1890 was 48,700,000 pounds, or 2,435 carloads, classified as follows:
Apples 1,000,000 pounds.
Apricots... 8,500,000 pounds.
Peaches 12,250,000 pounds.
Pears.. 600,000 pounds.
Plums 1,000,000 pounds.
Prunes 14,000,000 pounds.
Grapes... 10,500,000 pounds.
Nectarines 600,000 pounds.
Figs 350,000 pounds.
On a basis of six and one half pounds (which is a liberal allowance) of fresh fruit to one of dried, exclusive of prunes and grapes, which require three and four pounds, respectively, we find that the quantity of fresh fruit used amounted to 241,300,000 pounds, or 12,065 carloads. If that quantity of fruit had been shipped East in the fresh state, the transportation charges, say nothing of other expenses, would have amounted to $5,127,625, as against $730,500, the cost of shipping 2,435 carloads of dried fruit at $300 per car, or 14 cents per pound. This shows a saving to growers and shippers of $4,397,125 on one item—dried fruit.
Source: Biennial Report ©1892
Drying fruit has several advantages over canning or bottling. It is cheaper ; it may be adopted on an extensive scale ; the fruit may be kept with less care ; and being several times lighter than when fresh, may be sent long distances, or to foreign countries, at a moderate cost. When fruit-growers shall learn that dried fruit from the highest flavored sorts is as much better than that from the poor unsaleable varieties so often used for this purpose, as the best fresh fruit of the one sort exceeds the other, purchasers will also be willing to pay a much higher price for the best article. When, superadded to this, the fruit is dried rapidly so as to retain a clear, light color, and a perfect flavor, instead of the dark, half fermented fruit resulting from slow drying in bad weather, there will be no difficulty in finding a ready sale for all that may be offered in market. When abundant seasons occur, the surplus should be saved by drying, and may be kept another year.
In some parts of the Western States, houses are erefited for drying fruit, and are warmed by fire heat, by means of a furnace with a fine extending around the building, similar to that formerly used for green-houses. This flue is covered with sheet iron. An ample ventilator is placed at the top for the free escape of the large volumes of watery vapor which rise from the drying fruit. Trays or hurdles, about two feet wide, six feet long, and three inches deep, with small strips or laths forming the bottom, are placed in three tiers, one above the other, with a foot or more of space between them. Long strips of scantling, laid horizontally, extending the whole length of the house, and six or eight feet outside, form a sort of railway track on which a frame with rollers runs in and out through a wide door, for running in the fresh fruit and bringing out the dried. A house, ten by fourteen feet, and eight feet high, has been found sufficient for about two barrels of fruit at a time, and about twenty-four hours complete the drying process.
Source: The American Fruit Culturist ©1868
FRUIT FOR DRYING.
Fruit drying is now one of our recognized industries. That judgment, experience, and money are required in this branch of the fruit business in California goes without saying. The dried fruit markets of the United States furnish the greatest and most available outlet for the vast output of dried fruit, which is increasing in volume year by year.
The markets of the South Pacific Islands and Australia have been partially developed and are taking fair quantities of dried fruit this season. Our dried fruits are also being gradually introduced into the various large cities of Europe, several trial shipments, consisting of carloads of choice apricots and peaches, having been distributed in the Old World at good prices. A very large, profitable trade will certainly result from the proper introduction of California dried fruits into England. The output of dried fruit in this State from the crop of 1890 was 48,700,000 pounds, or 2,435 carloads, classified as follows:
Apples 1,000,000 pounds.
Apricots... 8,500,000 pounds.
Peaches 12,250,000 pounds.
Pears.. 600,000 pounds.
Plums 1,000,000 pounds.
Prunes 14,000,000 pounds.
Grapes... 10,500,000 pounds.
Nectarines 600,000 pounds.
Figs 350,000 pounds.
On a basis of six and one half pounds (which is a liberal allowance) of fresh fruit to one of dried, exclusive of prunes and grapes, which require three and four pounds, respectively, we find that the quantity of fresh fruit used amounted to 241,300,000 pounds, or 12,065 carloads. If that quantity of fruit had been shipped East in the fresh state, the transportation charges, say nothing of other expenses, would have amounted to $5,127,625, as against $730,500, the cost of shipping 2,435 carloads of dried fruit at $300 per car, or 14 cents per pound. This shows a saving to growers and shippers of $4,397,125 on one item—dried fruit.
Source: Biennial Report ©1892
Tuesday, March 3, 2015
Jelly Making and Recipe Posts
Below are links to previously posted tidbits on Jelly making and recipes. As I was putting this list together I noticed I didn't have the common grape jelly so below you'll find a few additional recipes for grape jelly. Enjoy!
Jelly Making 1837 Part 1
Jelly Making 1837 Part 2
Different Preserves
Preserves
Preserving Cherries
Fig Recipes
GRAPE JELLY.
Take grapes before they are fully ripe and boil them gently with a very little water; then strain and proceed as with currant jelly. Wild grapes will not make as firm a jelly as cultivated ones.
Source: Dr. Clark's Recipe Book ©1895
GREEN GRAPE JELLY.
Grapes half-ripe are nicer for jelly than when fully ripe. Stem them; put them over the fire with a very little water, Ripe Grapa. JELLY. Peach.
just enough to keep them from burning. Let cook, and mash with a silver spoon until the juice is pretty well extracted. Then strain, and to every pint allow about | pound sugar. Boil 20 minutes. In the meantime have the sugar heating. Then pour over the hot sugar. Stir well, and fill your glasses.
RIPE GRAPE JELLY.
Mrs. H. M. Ball, Normal, 111.
Pick the grapes from the stems; wash; to 2 quarts grapes add about £ cup water. Cover closely in a preserving-kettle, and boil for 5 minutes; then pour into a jelly-bag, and squeeze out the juice. To each pint of juice add 1 pound crushed or granulated sugar. Boil 15 minutes. Skim well. Fill your glasses while the jelly is hot, and tie them over with paper which should be previously saturated with unbeaten white of egg.
Ripe Grape Jelly.
Mrs. E. K. Owens, Minerva, Ky.
Take grapes fully ripe. Remove the skins first. Then heat till scalding hot. Then strain, and to 2 measures of juice put 3 of sugar. Boil, and it will jelly in about 5 minutes. Let stand in glasses 3 days before tying up.
Source: Mrs. Owens Cook Book ©1884
Jelly Making 1837 Part 1
Jelly Making 1837 Part 2
Different Preserves
Preserves
Preserving Cherries
Fig Recipes
GRAPE JELLY.
Take grapes before they are fully ripe and boil them gently with a very little water; then strain and proceed as with currant jelly. Wild grapes will not make as firm a jelly as cultivated ones.
Source: Dr. Clark's Recipe Book ©1895
GREEN GRAPE JELLY.
Grapes half-ripe are nicer for jelly than when fully ripe. Stem them; put them over the fire with a very little water, Ripe Grapa. JELLY. Peach.
just enough to keep them from burning. Let cook, and mash with a silver spoon until the juice is pretty well extracted. Then strain, and to every pint allow about | pound sugar. Boil 20 minutes. In the meantime have the sugar heating. Then pour over the hot sugar. Stir well, and fill your glasses.
RIPE GRAPE JELLY.
Mrs. H. M. Ball, Normal, 111.
Pick the grapes from the stems; wash; to 2 quarts grapes add about £ cup water. Cover closely in a preserving-kettle, and boil for 5 minutes; then pour into a jelly-bag, and squeeze out the juice. To each pint of juice add 1 pound crushed or granulated sugar. Boil 15 minutes. Skim well. Fill your glasses while the jelly is hot, and tie them over with paper which should be previously saturated with unbeaten white of egg.
Ripe Grape Jelly.
Mrs. E. K. Owens, Minerva, Ky.
Take grapes fully ripe. Remove the skins first. Then heat till scalding hot. Then strain, and to 2 measures of juice put 3 of sugar. Boil, and it will jelly in about 5 minutes. Let stand in glasses 3 days before tying up.
Source: Mrs. Owens Cook Book ©1884
Friday, February 27, 2015
Pickling Beef
Preserving meat took a lot of thought and effort on our 19th Century Characters or Ancestors. Below are some recipes for Pickling Beef. Don't think in terms of sweet or dill pickles. Remember pickling was a form of curing meat, as was salting and drying.
PICKLING BEEF —Rub a quarter of a pound of saltpetre and a little brown sugar on the beef; the following day season it with half a pound of bay salt, one ounce of black pepper, one ounce of allspice. Let the beef lie in pickle fourteen days, turning it every day, adding a little common salt three times per week ; then wash it, and put it into a glazed earthen pipkin, deep enough to cover it. Lay beef suet under it; add one pint of water, cover the top with paste and then paper, or with a plate instead of paste. Bake seven hours in an oven; pour off the liquor, but do not cut till cold. Will keep three months.
Source: The Godey's Lady's Book Receipts and Household Hints ©1870
RECIPE FOR PICKLING BEEF, PORK, OR MUTTON
4 gallons of water, 1% lbs. brown sugar, 2 oz. saltpetre, 5 lbs. alum salt. Put the whole into a kettle and let it boil, taking off the scum as it rises with care. When the scum ceases to rise, take it off the fire and let it get cold. Put the meat into the vessel in which it is to be kept and pour in the liquor until it is entirely covered. Beef preserved in this way is as good as if salted, but three days, at the end of 10 weeks. lf the meat is to be kept a long time, the pickle must be boiled and skimmed once in 2 weeks.
PICKLE FOR BEEF, MUTTON, OR PORK
8 gallons of water, 3 lbs. of sugar, 14 lb. saltpetre, 12 lbs. of salt. To be boiled and skimmed until no scum arises. Then pour it cold upon the meat.
PICKLE FOR BEEF
Pack down your beef, sprinkling some fine salt on the parts which come in contact with each other. Place a weight upon the beef and then cover it completely with the pickle made of the following preparations: 12 lbs. of fine Liverpool salt, 8 gallons of water, 1 lb. sugar, and 4 ozs. of saltpetre. Mix the pickle with cold water, skim it well and put it on cold.
l. S. Lewis to J. P. Norris, April 18th, 1822
PICKLED BEEF
6 gallons of water, 12 lbs. of salt, 5 oz. saltpetre, and 6 lbs. of brown sugar. Simmer them over the fire until the scum ceases to rise. This quantity is sufficient for 200 lbs. of beef. Let it stay in pickle 4 or 5 weeks and re-pack it once in that time.
M. Newbold, N. J.
MRS. R. COLEMAN'S RECIPE FOR
PICKLING BEEF OR PORK OF 90 LBS.
6 gallons of water, 9 lbs. of salt, (4y2 of fine and 4% of coarse salt), 3 lbs. brown sugar, 3 oz. saltpetre and 1 oz. of pearl ash. To be boiled and well skimmed and 1 quart of molasses.
90 LBS. OF BEEF OR PORK
The same as the above without the molasses. To be mixed with cold water and well boiled and skimmed.
CORNED BEEF
1 gallon of water, 1% lbs. of salt, y2 lb. brown sugar, and % oz. saltpetre. Boil all together and skim it well. Then put it into a large tub to cool, and when perfectly cold, pour it over your beef or pork and let it remain in four weeks. The meat must be well covered and should not be put down for at least 2 days after killing during which time it should be slightly sprinkled with powdered saltpetre. Mrs. Brown
Source: Cook Book 1st Vol. ©1855
Will you please give me a good recipe for pickling beef—one that you know has been thoroughly tried!
Answer.—The following we know to be good: Cut the beef in convenient pieces and salt down as usual, adding a “pinch” of saltpeter to each piece. Let it remain in salt three days; then drain off the bloody brine formed by the salt, wipe each piece with a clean cloth and re-pack in the tub or other vessel used; a syrup or molasses cask will answer, but not a whisky barrel. For the brine, take as much water as will cover the beef; add salt until no more will disso‘ve; a tea-cup of ground saltpetre and a quart of molasses, or its equivalent of brown sugar. Boil and skim well. When the brine thus prepared is entirely cold, pour it over the beef and keep the latter well pressed under the brine. These proportions are for 200 pounds of beef. If the brine should mould in warm weather, reboil and skim it, adding half pound of cooking soda,and when cold return to the beef.
Source: The Southern Cultivator and Industrial Journal ©1888
PICKLING BEEF —Rub a quarter of a pound of saltpetre and a little brown sugar on the beef; the following day season it with half a pound of bay salt, one ounce of black pepper, one ounce of allspice. Let the beef lie in pickle fourteen days, turning it every day, adding a little common salt three times per week ; then wash it, and put it into a glazed earthen pipkin, deep enough to cover it. Lay beef suet under it; add one pint of water, cover the top with paste and then paper, or with a plate instead of paste. Bake seven hours in an oven; pour off the liquor, but do not cut till cold. Will keep three months.
Source: The Godey's Lady's Book Receipts and Household Hints ©1870
RECIPE FOR PICKLING BEEF, PORK, OR MUTTON
4 gallons of water, 1% lbs. brown sugar, 2 oz. saltpetre, 5 lbs. alum salt. Put the whole into a kettle and let it boil, taking off the scum as it rises with care. When the scum ceases to rise, take it off the fire and let it get cold. Put the meat into the vessel in which it is to be kept and pour in the liquor until it is entirely covered. Beef preserved in this way is as good as if salted, but three days, at the end of 10 weeks. lf the meat is to be kept a long time, the pickle must be boiled and skimmed once in 2 weeks.
PICKLE FOR BEEF, MUTTON, OR PORK
8 gallons of water, 3 lbs. of sugar, 14 lb. saltpetre, 12 lbs. of salt. To be boiled and skimmed until no scum arises. Then pour it cold upon the meat.
PICKLE FOR BEEF
Pack down your beef, sprinkling some fine salt on the parts which come in contact with each other. Place a weight upon the beef and then cover it completely with the pickle made of the following preparations: 12 lbs. of fine Liverpool salt, 8 gallons of water, 1 lb. sugar, and 4 ozs. of saltpetre. Mix the pickle with cold water, skim it well and put it on cold.
l. S. Lewis to J. P. Norris, April 18th, 1822
PICKLED BEEF
6 gallons of water, 12 lbs. of salt, 5 oz. saltpetre, and 6 lbs. of brown sugar. Simmer them over the fire until the scum ceases to rise. This quantity is sufficient for 200 lbs. of beef. Let it stay in pickle 4 or 5 weeks and re-pack it once in that time.
M. Newbold, N. J.
MRS. R. COLEMAN'S RECIPE FOR
PICKLING BEEF OR PORK OF 90 LBS.
6 gallons of water, 9 lbs. of salt, (4y2 of fine and 4% of coarse salt), 3 lbs. brown sugar, 3 oz. saltpetre and 1 oz. of pearl ash. To be boiled and well skimmed and 1 quart of molasses.
90 LBS. OF BEEF OR PORK
The same as the above without the molasses. To be mixed with cold water and well boiled and skimmed.
CORNED BEEF
1 gallon of water, 1% lbs. of salt, y2 lb. brown sugar, and % oz. saltpetre. Boil all together and skim it well. Then put it into a large tub to cool, and when perfectly cold, pour it over your beef or pork and let it remain in four weeks. The meat must be well covered and should not be put down for at least 2 days after killing during which time it should be slightly sprinkled with powdered saltpetre. Mrs. Brown
Source: Cook Book 1st Vol. ©1855
Will you please give me a good recipe for pickling beef—one that you know has been thoroughly tried!
Answer.—The following we know to be good: Cut the beef in convenient pieces and salt down as usual, adding a “pinch” of saltpeter to each piece. Let it remain in salt three days; then drain off the bloody brine formed by the salt, wipe each piece with a clean cloth and re-pack in the tub or other vessel used; a syrup or molasses cask will answer, but not a whisky barrel. For the brine, take as much water as will cover the beef; add salt until no more will disso‘ve; a tea-cup of ground saltpetre and a quart of molasses, or its equivalent of brown sugar. Boil and skim well. When the brine thus prepared is entirely cold, pour it over the beef and keep the latter well pressed under the brine. These proportions are for 200 pounds of beef. If the brine should mould in warm weather, reboil and skim it, adding half pound of cooking soda,and when cold return to the beef.
Source: The Southern Cultivator and Industrial Journal ©1888
Monday, November 3, 2014
Fall Vegetables
Does your hero or heroine have need to store their fall vegetables? Below are a couple excerpts from various sources regarding storing up vegetables for winter use.
VEGETABLES.
If one has a good, dry cellar, it is more economical to purchase in the fall vegetables for winter use, such as beets, carrots, turnips, parsnips, potatoes, etc., which keep better if imbedded in sand, and keep in a place just cool enough not to freeze. Squash and onions require a very cool, dry room. However, so many vegetables are now in market the year round that unless one has a place perfectly adapted to keeping vegetables and fruits, it will not pay to invest one's money, as when they are kept in too warm a place they soon spoil, and money is lost.
Carrots, beets, turnips and summer squash reach us as early as March or April from the Southland by the last of June home-grown ones appear. Cabbage is in market all the year round, so are onions, leeks, celery, lettuce, watercress, spinach, dandelions, or some kind of greens. Green peas may be found in February or March, and home-grown by the last of June; tomatoes, asparagus, cucumbers from hothouse or the South in March; asparagus, home-grown, in
April; cucumbers and tomatoes in June or July; green corn from South last of May, home-grown July.
In vegetables as in fruit, the middlesized, heavy ones are considered best. Too small are not mature, too large overgrown, and are apt not to have as fine flavor, and to contain too much woody fibre or cellulose. Good, fresh vegetables are shapely, usually smooth, and are firm to the touch, and when lifted, heavy for size. Winter vegetables should be mature before gathering, that the skin may form an impervious covering. They should always be well dried before storing. The fall price of winter vegetables depends upon the supply and demand, the winter price upon the supply, demand, and time in winter when they are purchased. The price of green vegetables usually depends upon whether in or out of season, and the size of the crop, the demand, and upon the keepingqualities.
Neither green nor winter vegetables should be purchased if they have lost their freshness or are withered. Vegetables, fruits and fish are most costly when out of season. They are said to be in season when cheapest. They may be on the market and still be out of season. They are in season in a locality at the time in the year when they have come to perfection, or have matured. The marketing outline spoken of may also be used as a reference-book to tell when either of the three were in season on previous years as well as the price at that time.
Source: The Oread ©1899
Artichoke
Storing.—At the approach of frost cut the remaining Chards; and store them in sand in a dry cellar or shed.
Jerusalem Artichoke
Storing.—Raise a portion of the crop during November, and store it in dry sand, ashes or earth, leaving the remainder to be dug up as required.
Beets
Storing.—Carefully lift the crop with a fork at the first autumn frost, taking precautions not to bruise or injure the roots; cut off the tops an inch from the crown; shorten any long fang-roots; and store in dry sand or earth in a cool shed, or in a cool, dry clamp, as advised for Carrots.
Broccoli
Storing. — In some gardens Broccoli are raised at the approach of winter, and stored closely in a cellar; but we prefer to let them finish out-of-doors.
Cabbage
Storing.—If it should be necessary to store Cabbages, place them in a barrel or box half buried in the garden, and cover them thickly with litter and dry soil.
Carrots
Storing.—Carefully raise the main crop before the advent of autumn frosts; and—after cutting off the tops, and lightly brushing away the earth—either store the roots in dry sand or soil in a cool shed or cellar, or pile them, neck outwards, in low heaps, which must be thickly covered with litter, and finally—when danger from heating has passed away—with a layer of dry earth.
Cauliflower
Storing.—As the crop soon spoils after attaining perfection, the plants should be drawn, if they mature in greater quantities than can be immediately consumed, and suspended root upwards, as they are, in a cool, dark cellar, where they may be slightly syringed daily. Late supplies can be similarly treated at the advent of frost, or they may be stored for nearly a month in sand in any dry position.
Celery
Storing.—Raise a portion of the crop, and store the roots closely together on a layer of soil in a box or barrel, through the sides of which inch-holes have been bored about 4 inches from the bottom. The roots and some soil should be left adhering to the plants, which will require an occasional watering through the holes. Blanched roots should be trimmed closely and pack ed tightly in an upright position in moss or sand in a box.
Chicory
In October commence to raise a few roots of the latter at a time with a fork; wrench off the tops; and pack the roots closely in boxes of moist soil or sand in a cool and perfectly dark cellar or shed, from wnich frosts can be excluded. Begin to break off the leaves for use about 3 weeks after storing. Water only when the plants begin to flag. The blanched foliage produces a surprising amount of delicious salading material; and—by judicious management—a continuous supply can be obtained through the winter and spring.
Onions
Giant Zittau Giant Rocco
Storing.—Draw the bulbs in dry weather; and let them lie, roots towards the sun, on the bed, gravel paths, or the floor of a sunny shed for a few days; after which they may be bunched, or topped and stored in heaps under mats in any dry, airy and cool place.
Parsnip
Storing.—Lift a few roots for immediate use in early November; but provided the soil be reasonably welldrained, the bulk of the crop should be left in the ground to be dug up as actually required, a covering of litter being afforded during severe frosts. Should, however, the land be heavy, it is well to raise the whole supply towards the end of November, and store it in sand or dry earth in a very cool cellar or shed. What remains of the crop must be raised and stored in February.
Potatoes
Stori-ng.—Lift the crops during fine weather, placing the fork well under the tubers so as not to injure them; and allow them to dry for a few hours on the surface soil. It is not advisable to wait until the shaws die down, as Potatoes ripen quite as well in a dry shed as in the ground, where they are exposed to many risks. Medium sized, handsome specimens may be put on one side for seed purposes. Store the best of the crop under a thick covering of straw in a dry shed for 3 or 4 weeks; after which, sort out the good tubers, and place them in outdoor pits and clamps in dry positions, or in heaps or tubs in a dark cellar, whence frost, light and air can be excluded. Stored tubers should so far as possible be -examined and picked over once in every few weeks.
Radishes
Storing.—Raise China Rose and Black Spanish Radishes during November or December; and store the roots in dry sand in a shed or cellar.
Shallots
Storing.—Lift the crop in dry weather on its nearly attaining maturity; and store it in any dry and well ventilated shed or cellar, to complete the process of ripening in safety. The bulbs can be kept as advised for Onions.
Turnip
Storing.—Lift a portion of the crop before winter; and—after lightly trimming the roots and cutting off the tops about J inch from the crown, store the bulbs in dry sand or earth in a cellar, or in any other position where air and frost can be excluded. Raise the remainder as required. Any plants left over until spring will produce a supply of greens.
Source: The Culture of Vegetables ©1897
VEGETABLES.
If one has a good, dry cellar, it is more economical to purchase in the fall vegetables for winter use, such as beets, carrots, turnips, parsnips, potatoes, etc., which keep better if imbedded in sand, and keep in a place just cool enough not to freeze. Squash and onions require a very cool, dry room. However, so many vegetables are now in market the year round that unless one has a place perfectly adapted to keeping vegetables and fruits, it will not pay to invest one's money, as when they are kept in too warm a place they soon spoil, and money is lost.
Carrots, beets, turnips and summer squash reach us as early as March or April from the Southland by the last of June home-grown ones appear. Cabbage is in market all the year round, so are onions, leeks, celery, lettuce, watercress, spinach, dandelions, or some kind of greens. Green peas may be found in February or March, and home-grown by the last of June; tomatoes, asparagus, cucumbers from hothouse or the South in March; asparagus, home-grown, in
April; cucumbers and tomatoes in June or July; green corn from South last of May, home-grown July.
In vegetables as in fruit, the middlesized, heavy ones are considered best. Too small are not mature, too large overgrown, and are apt not to have as fine flavor, and to contain too much woody fibre or cellulose. Good, fresh vegetables are shapely, usually smooth, and are firm to the touch, and when lifted, heavy for size. Winter vegetables should be mature before gathering, that the skin may form an impervious covering. They should always be well dried before storing. The fall price of winter vegetables depends upon the supply and demand, the winter price upon the supply, demand, and time in winter when they are purchased. The price of green vegetables usually depends upon whether in or out of season, and the size of the crop, the demand, and upon the keepingqualities.
Neither green nor winter vegetables should be purchased if they have lost their freshness or are withered. Vegetables, fruits and fish are most costly when out of season. They are said to be in season when cheapest. They may be on the market and still be out of season. They are in season in a locality at the time in the year when they have come to perfection, or have matured. The marketing outline spoken of may also be used as a reference-book to tell when either of the three were in season on previous years as well as the price at that time.
Source: The Oread ©1899
Artichoke
Storing.—At the approach of frost cut the remaining Chards; and store them in sand in a dry cellar or shed.
Jerusalem Artichoke
Storing.—Raise a portion of the crop during November, and store it in dry sand, ashes or earth, leaving the remainder to be dug up as required.
Beets
Storing.—Carefully lift the crop with a fork at the first autumn frost, taking precautions not to bruise or injure the roots; cut off the tops an inch from the crown; shorten any long fang-roots; and store in dry sand or earth in a cool shed, or in a cool, dry clamp, as advised for Carrots.
Broccoli
Storing. — In some gardens Broccoli are raised at the approach of winter, and stored closely in a cellar; but we prefer to let them finish out-of-doors.
Cabbage
Storing.—If it should be necessary to store Cabbages, place them in a barrel or box half buried in the garden, and cover them thickly with litter and dry soil.
Carrots
Storing.—Carefully raise the main crop before the advent of autumn frosts; and—after cutting off the tops, and lightly brushing away the earth—either store the roots in dry sand or soil in a cool shed or cellar, or pile them, neck outwards, in low heaps, which must be thickly covered with litter, and finally—when danger from heating has passed away—with a layer of dry earth.
Cauliflower
Storing.—As the crop soon spoils after attaining perfection, the plants should be drawn, if they mature in greater quantities than can be immediately consumed, and suspended root upwards, as they are, in a cool, dark cellar, where they may be slightly syringed daily. Late supplies can be similarly treated at the advent of frost, or they may be stored for nearly a month in sand in any dry position.
Celery
Storing.—Raise a portion of the crop, and store the roots closely together on a layer of soil in a box or barrel, through the sides of which inch-holes have been bored about 4 inches from the bottom. The roots and some soil should be left adhering to the plants, which will require an occasional watering through the holes. Blanched roots should be trimmed closely and pack ed tightly in an upright position in moss or sand in a box.
Chicory
In October commence to raise a few roots of the latter at a time with a fork; wrench off the tops; and pack the roots closely in boxes of moist soil or sand in a cool and perfectly dark cellar or shed, from wnich frosts can be excluded. Begin to break off the leaves for use about 3 weeks after storing. Water only when the plants begin to flag. The blanched foliage produces a surprising amount of delicious salading material; and—by judicious management—a continuous supply can be obtained through the winter and spring.
Onions
Giant Zittau Giant Rocco
Storing.—Draw the bulbs in dry weather; and let them lie, roots towards the sun, on the bed, gravel paths, or the floor of a sunny shed for a few days; after which they may be bunched, or topped and stored in heaps under mats in any dry, airy and cool place.
Parsnip
Storing.—Lift a few roots for immediate use in early November; but provided the soil be reasonably welldrained, the bulk of the crop should be left in the ground to be dug up as actually required, a covering of litter being afforded during severe frosts. Should, however, the land be heavy, it is well to raise the whole supply towards the end of November, and store it in sand or dry earth in a very cool cellar or shed. What remains of the crop must be raised and stored in February.
Potatoes
Stori-ng.—Lift the crops during fine weather, placing the fork well under the tubers so as not to injure them; and allow them to dry for a few hours on the surface soil. It is not advisable to wait until the shaws die down, as Potatoes ripen quite as well in a dry shed as in the ground, where they are exposed to many risks. Medium sized, handsome specimens may be put on one side for seed purposes. Store the best of the crop under a thick covering of straw in a dry shed for 3 or 4 weeks; after which, sort out the good tubers, and place them in outdoor pits and clamps in dry positions, or in heaps or tubs in a dark cellar, whence frost, light and air can be excluded. Stored tubers should so far as possible be -examined and picked over once in every few weeks.
Radishes
Storing.—Raise China Rose and Black Spanish Radishes during November or December; and store the roots in dry sand in a shed or cellar.
Shallots
Storing.—Lift the crop in dry weather on its nearly attaining maturity; and store it in any dry and well ventilated shed or cellar, to complete the process of ripening in safety. The bulbs can be kept as advised for Onions.
Turnip
Storing.—Lift a portion of the crop before winter; and—after lightly trimming the roots and cutting off the tops about J inch from the crown, store the bulbs in dry sand or earth in a cellar, or in any other position where air and frost can be excluded. Raise the remainder as required. Any plants left over until spring will produce a supply of greens.
Source: The Culture of Vegetables ©1897
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