Etiquette & Manners is something often discussed on some of my of the writer loops I belong to as they pertain to the 19th century. Through Google books I've found a great source of books regarding such topics. Below is a list ordered by the year they were published. I've gathered this resource list over the past two years from Google Books. Hope it helps you in your search for proper behavior in the time period of your setting.
1832 Domestic Manners of the Americans
1835 Pencil Sketches
1837 The Young Lady's Friend
1839 Miss Leslie's Behavior Book
1842 Elegant Extracts
1843 Etiquette or, A Guide to The Usages of Society with a Glance at Bad Habits
1854 Etiquette Social Ethics and the Curtiousy of Society
1854 The Behavior Book
1860 The Gentlemen's Book of Etiquette and Manners
1860 The Hand Book of Etiquette
1866 Marine's Sensible Letter Writer
1868 Manners or Happy Homes
1870 Good Manners a Manual of Ediquette
1872 The Ladie's Book of Etiquette and Manual of Politeness
1873 The Gentlemen's Book of Etiquette and Manual of Politeness
1884 Don't: A Manual of Mistakes and Improprieties More or Less
1888 Manners
1889 American Etiquette and Rules of Politeness
1889 Perfect Etiquette or How to Behave in social...
1892 Etiquette An Answer to the Riddle, When? Where? How?
1896 Social Etiquette or Manners and Customs of Polite Society
1897 Manners for Men
1897 Practical Letter Writing
1899 Twenty Letters in Letter Writing and Business
Showing posts with label 1832. Show all posts
Showing posts with label 1832. Show all posts
Tuesday, April 11, 2017
Monday, March 20, 2017
Safety Pins
I love safety pins. I find them incredibly practice on a variety of levels. You probably are grateful too for this little invention but did you know they were invented in 1849 by Walter Hunt. He patented it in 1849. It was one wire coiled at one end with a clasped at the other. Sounds very similar to what we use now. Walter Hunt also built the first sewing machine in 1832.
Here's a link to a page on Walter Hunt that also has an image of the first safety pin designed.
Walter Hunt The Forgotten Genius
Unfortunately as smart as Walter was with his ability to invent, he wasn't very prudent with his financial abilities and sold his patent for $400 to a man he owed the same sum for.
Here's a link to a page on Walter Hunt that also has an image of the first safety pin designed.
Walter Hunt The Forgotten Genius
Unfortunately as smart as Walter was with his ability to invent, he wasn't very prudent with his financial abilities and sold his patent for $400 to a man he owed the same sum for.
Thursday, December 8, 2016
Tin Kitchen, Tin Baker or Reflecting Oven
Below is an excerpt from The Journal of the Franklin Institute ©1833 about a Tin Kitchen Patent. In the List of Patents for Inventions and designs, issued by the United States, ©1847 we find the patent was given on June 14, 1832.
For an improvement in the Tin Kitchen; George Richardson, South Reading, Middlesex county, Massachusetts, June 14.
This, we are informed, is made like the ordinary tin kitchen, excepting that it is nearly of a square form, with the sides, bottom and back, in entire pieces, to exclude the external airj there, however, is to be a close fitting lid on the top, or in the back, notwithstanding its entire unity. A shelf, or shelves, may be placed on ledges within, or there may be a spit crossing it in the usual way. The tin case, and also the separate peices, are to be so formed and placed as to reflect the heat where it is most wanted.
In what part the claim to a patent resides, we are not informed.
In another source we find in History of Jay, Franklin County, Maine, by Benjamin F. Lawrence ©1912:
The Thanksgiving turkey was suspended by a string from the mantel-piece before the fire, with a dripping-pan on the hearth underneath. Later on came the tin-baker and tin-kitchen, which greatly facilitated the means of cooking and aided the housewife in household duties. And at a still later day earthenware and crockery-ware displaced the wooden vessels, the wooden bowls and spoons of the early settlers and even the pewter platters, spoons and mugs of the better class were put aside as relics by the use of more modern dishes.
And for some further definition we find in The Journal of Home economics, Vol. 12 ©1920 this definition:
The tin kitchen was a light utensil—of tin, as the name indicates; closed on all sides but that facing the fire; the top being curved or slanted downward and the bottom curved or slanted reversely. Whatever was to be baked was placed on a shallow pan supported within the tinkitchen, and thus received direct heat from the hearth fire and reflected heat from the utensil. The collapsible aluminum reflector used today by campers is derived from the old-fashioned tin kitchen and works on exactly the same principles.
For an improvement in the Tin Kitchen; George Richardson, South Reading, Middlesex county, Massachusetts, June 14.
This, we are informed, is made like the ordinary tin kitchen, excepting that it is nearly of a square form, with the sides, bottom and back, in entire pieces, to exclude the external airj there, however, is to be a close fitting lid on the top, or in the back, notwithstanding its entire unity. A shelf, or shelves, may be placed on ledges within, or there may be a spit crossing it in the usual way. The tin case, and also the separate peices, are to be so formed and placed as to reflect the heat where it is most wanted.
In what part the claim to a patent resides, we are not informed.
In another source we find in History of Jay, Franklin County, Maine, by Benjamin F. Lawrence ©1912:
The Thanksgiving turkey was suspended by a string from the mantel-piece before the fire, with a dripping-pan on the hearth underneath. Later on came the tin-baker and tin-kitchen, which greatly facilitated the means of cooking and aided the housewife in household duties. And at a still later day earthenware and crockery-ware displaced the wooden vessels, the wooden bowls and spoons of the early settlers and even the pewter platters, spoons and mugs of the better class were put aside as relics by the use of more modern dishes.
And for some further definition we find in The Journal of Home economics, Vol. 12 ©1920 this definition:
The tin kitchen was a light utensil—of tin, as the name indicates; closed on all sides but that facing the fire; the top being curved or slanted downward and the bottom curved or slanted reversely. Whatever was to be baked was placed on a shallow pan supported within the tinkitchen, and thus received direct heat from the hearth fire and reflected heat from the utensil. The collapsible aluminum reflector used today by campers is derived from the old-fashioned tin kitchen and works on exactly the same principles.
Wednesday, November 30, 2016
Astronomy from Literary Gazette 1830
Celestial Phenomena from 1830 to 1836
To stimulate recent subscribers to the Literary Gazette to commence with the year the study of astronomy, a brief sketch is subjoined of the aost remarkable phenomena that will occur mm 1830 to 1836, inclusive. Some of these are connected with questions and predictions to the solution and fulfilment of which philosophers are looking forward with considerable interest; more particularly to the return of the three comets, whose periods are supposed to be kaown with some degree of certainty; namely, lbs cnmets of Encke, Biela, and Halley.
1830—Four visible occultations of Aldebarsn, one of which will be attended with singular circumstances connected with terrestrial position—to one part of the British Isles it will prove only an appulse of the star, and to another part an occultation. A total eclipse of the moon, the duration of which will be almost the longest possible, as the centre of the moon will pass very near the centre of the earth's shadow: about the middle of the eclipse the saoon will be in conjunction with a star in Aquarius, which conjunction will, in some places be an occultation. An occultation of Venus by the moon.
1831 An eclipse of the moon. Mars will pass over a star in Taurus. An occultation of Japiter by the moon. Mercury eclipsed by the san. An occultation of Saturn by the moon.
1832—This year will be remarkably replete with interesting phenomena. The comet of Eacke will return in the spring, and the comet «f Biela in the autumn of the year. A transit rf Mercury across the sun's disc. An eclipse rf the sun. An occultation of Saturn by the 2UOB. Three of the satellites of Jupiter sizxltaneou&ly eclipsed.
1833 An eclipse of the sun.
1834 and 1835—The comet of Halley will ae expected; it last passed its perihelion on the -3th of March, 1759: it is calculated to reach iie same point again 16th of March, 1835. A Sanaa t of Mercury across the sun's disc.
1836 A considerable solar eclipse.
end of quote
Note they didn't put in the 1833 Leonoids meteor storm. Coined "The Night It Rained Fire."
To stimulate recent subscribers to the Literary Gazette to commence with the year the study of astronomy, a brief sketch is subjoined of the aost remarkable phenomena that will occur mm 1830 to 1836, inclusive. Some of these are connected with questions and predictions to the solution and fulfilment of which philosophers are looking forward with considerable interest; more particularly to the return of the three comets, whose periods are supposed to be kaown with some degree of certainty; namely, lbs cnmets of Encke, Biela, and Halley.
1830—Four visible occultations of Aldebarsn, one of which will be attended with singular circumstances connected with terrestrial position—to one part of the British Isles it will prove only an appulse of the star, and to another part an occultation. A total eclipse of the moon, the duration of which will be almost the longest possible, as the centre of the moon will pass very near the centre of the earth's shadow: about the middle of the eclipse the saoon will be in conjunction with a star in Aquarius, which conjunction will, in some places be an occultation. An occultation of Venus by the moon.
1831 An eclipse of the moon. Mars will pass over a star in Taurus. An occultation of Japiter by the moon. Mercury eclipsed by the san. An occultation of Saturn by the moon.
1832—This year will be remarkably replete with interesting phenomena. The comet of Eacke will return in the spring, and the comet «f Biela in the autumn of the year. A transit rf Mercury across the sun's disc. An eclipse rf the sun. An occultation of Saturn by the 2UOB. Three of the satellites of Jupiter sizxltaneou&ly eclipsed.
1833 An eclipse of the sun.
1834 and 1835—The comet of Halley will ae expected; it last passed its perihelion on the -3th of March, 1759: it is calculated to reach iie same point again 16th of March, 1835. A Sanaa t of Mercury across the sun's disc.
1836 A considerable solar eclipse.
end of quote
Note they didn't put in the 1833 Leonoids meteor storm. Coined "The Night It Rained Fire."
Monday, November 28, 2016
Trail of Tears
One of the worse times in our American history, imho, was the Trail of Tears, the forcible relocation of many Native Americans. Five tribes the Cherokee, Chickasaw, Muscogee-Creek, and Seminole all living in the deep south were relocated to the Indian Territory, what is now known and most of Oklahoma and some of Kansas.
The trail was not a one time event, each tribe was relocated at different intervals. The act was called "The Indian Removal Act of 1830" Wikipedia has a good article referring to the act voted on and signed by President Andrew Jackson.
Choctaw from Alabama, Mississippi and Louisiana were marched out in 1831
1832 was the removal of the Seminole tribe from Florida.
The Creek were removed in 1834 also from Alabama & Georgia
The Chickasaw in 1837 Mississippi River area.
Cherokee in 1838 from North Carolina, Georgia because gold had been found on their lands.
The trail took the lives of many as exposure, disease and starvation hit them as they were en route. 46,000 were taken before the Cherokee, I couldn't find figures on how many Cherokee were taken but at least 4,000 died on the trail. I've found figures from 17,000 to 24,000
The trail was not a one time event, each tribe was relocated at different intervals. The act was called "The Indian Removal Act of 1830" Wikipedia has a good article referring to the act voted on and signed by President Andrew Jackson.
Choctaw from Alabama, Mississippi and Louisiana were marched out in 1831
1832 was the removal of the Seminole tribe from Florida.
The Creek were removed in 1834 also from Alabama & Georgia
The Chickasaw in 1837 Mississippi River area.
Cherokee in 1838 from North Carolina, Georgia because gold had been found on their lands.
The trail took the lives of many as exposure, disease and starvation hit them as they were en route. 46,000 were taken before the Cherokee, I couldn't find figures on how many Cherokee were taken but at least 4,000 died on the trail. I've found figures from 17,000 to 24,000
Friday, November 18, 2016
Language of Flowers Part 3
To continue with this topic I'm including a couple of links. These links and books greatly expand the list I've given you the past two days from Houghtaling's Handbook. Below are five books representing the tip of the iceberg in Google books relating to this topic.
In 1832 Louise Cortambert wrote "The Language of Flowers" Google books full copy of the text
In 1848 Frederic Shoberl wrote "The LANGUAGE OF FLOWERS WITH ILLUSTRATIVE POETRY; TO WHICH ARE NOW ADDED THE CALENDAR OF FLOWERS AND THE DIAL OF FLOWERS. EIGHTH AMERICAN, FROM THE TENTH LONDON EDITION. REVISED BY THE EDITOR OF " FORGET ME NOT. ..." Google books has a complete copy of this book online. This book gives more than a list of what a flower means but also gives some of the background information as to why the flower means thus and so.
In 1863 Henrietta Dumont published a book "The Language of Flowers: The floral offering: a token of affection and esteem; comprising the Language and Poetry of Flowers." Google books has a full copy of this text.
In 1874 Miss Ildrewe composed "The Language of Flowers" and in her book she also expands with the use of flowers in poetry. Google books link The author also breaks down the flowers in order of seasons.
In 1884 Kate Greenaway illustrated and Edmund Evans printed in color "Language of Flowers" It's a quite expansive list encompassing 60 pages then breaks from the listing to poetry. Again you can find a complete copy of this book at Google Books This book is no longer free.
Web sites with lists:
Victorian Bazaar
Language of Flowers
Enjoy!
In 1832 Louise Cortambert wrote "The Language of Flowers" Google books full copy of the text
In 1848 Frederic Shoberl wrote "The LANGUAGE OF FLOWERS WITH ILLUSTRATIVE POETRY; TO WHICH ARE NOW ADDED THE CALENDAR OF FLOWERS AND THE DIAL OF FLOWERS. EIGHTH AMERICAN, FROM THE TENTH LONDON EDITION. REVISED BY THE EDITOR OF " FORGET ME NOT. ..." Google books has a complete copy of this book online. This book gives more than a list of what a flower means but also gives some of the background information as to why the flower means thus and so.
In 1863 Henrietta Dumont published a book "The Language of Flowers: The floral offering: a token of affection and esteem; comprising the Language and Poetry of Flowers." Google books has a full copy of this text.
In 1874 Miss Ildrewe composed "The Language of Flowers" and in her book she also expands with the use of flowers in poetry. Google books link The author also breaks down the flowers in order of seasons.
In 1884 Kate Greenaway illustrated and Edmund Evans printed in color "Language of Flowers" It's a quite expansive list encompassing 60 pages then breaks from the listing to poetry. Again you can find a complete copy of this book at Google Books This book is no longer free.
Web sites with lists:
Victorian Bazaar
Language of Flowers
Enjoy!
Tuesday, November 15, 2016
Ice Cream Pioneer
Jacob Fussell a Baltimore dairyman on Jun 15th, 1851 sets up the first Ice Cream factory. He opened the factory to keep a steady demand for his cream. He sold his ice cream at half the price charged by other (25 cents a quart). By 1856 the manufacturing operation sprouted several parlors in Washington, D.C and Boston.
Fussell's development of the ice cream industry is without question. However, there are a couple other people that without their inventions/ice cream making techniques that came before Fussell that I feel should be mentioned.
Augustus Jackson created new recipes for making ice cream in 1832. He was a confectioner.
Secondly, Nancy Johnson patented a hand-cranked freezer that is still the basic design of making ice cream today in 1846.
Posted by Lynn Coleman at 6:51 AM 2 comments
Labels: 1832, 1846, 1851, Food, Industry
WEDNESDAY, JUNE 23, 2010
3 cent piece
Yes, you read that correctly back in 1851 a three cent piece was minted. Postage rates had gone down from 5 cents to 3 cents giving people the ability to have a single coin to make small purchases with. The coin was smaller than our current dime and was minted from 1851 - 1873. They were made of silver but also included with cooper so folks wouldn't melt them down for their silver value.
There were two different three cent pieces. The three piece silver and the three cent nickel. The later was produced during the Civil War to help stop the hoarding of silver coins. The nickel was produced from 1865-1889.
You can read more about this at Wikipedia
A three cent piece became the discussion of politicians again in 1911 but that isn't our century of focus.
You can also do a search at Google books and come up with several references of three cent pieces. Along with the "Laws of the United States relating to loans, paper money, banking, and coinage, 1790 - 1895. In there you'll find the percentage of metals to use to produce the coin.
Fussell's development of the ice cream industry is without question. However, there are a couple other people that without their inventions/ice cream making techniques that came before Fussell that I feel should be mentioned.
Augustus Jackson created new recipes for making ice cream in 1832. He was a confectioner.
Secondly, Nancy Johnson patented a hand-cranked freezer that is still the basic design of making ice cream today in 1846.
Posted by Lynn Coleman at 6:51 AM 2 comments
Labels: 1832, 1846, 1851, Food, Industry
WEDNESDAY, JUNE 23, 2010
3 cent piece
Yes, you read that correctly back in 1851 a three cent piece was minted. Postage rates had gone down from 5 cents to 3 cents giving people the ability to have a single coin to make small purchases with. The coin was smaller than our current dime and was minted from 1851 - 1873. They were made of silver but also included with cooper so folks wouldn't melt them down for their silver value.
There were two different three cent pieces. The three piece silver and the three cent nickel. The later was produced during the Civil War to help stop the hoarding of silver coins. The nickel was produced from 1865-1889.
You can read more about this at Wikipedia
A three cent piece became the discussion of politicians again in 1911 but that isn't our century of focus.
You can also do a search at Google books and come up with several references of three cent pieces. Along with the "Laws of the United States relating to loans, paper money, banking, and coinage, 1790 - 1895. In there you'll find the percentage of metals to use to produce the coin.
Wednesday, August 17, 2016
Walk-in-the-Water
Was the first steamboat on Lake Erie. Launched in Aug. 23, 1818, the "Walk-in-the-Water" had a long first trek up the Niagara River from Buffalo to Lake Erie. She was the first steamboat on Lake Erie, Huron and Michigan and the third on the Great Lakes over all. She received her name from the Indians. Her maiden voyage carried 29 passengers. Their fare was $8.00 to Erie.
As I mentioned in an earlier post the waterways were very important in transportation during the first half of the 19th century. Even today the waterways still play an important part.
"Walk-in-the-Water" was 338 tons, length of 135feet and width of 32. The width of the beam was 8 feet and 6 inches. She had a short life. In Oct. 1821 leaving Cleveland she ran into a typical gale. The boat began to leak, she turned back for Buffalo. One of the anchor ropes broke and she began to drag on the anchor. She grounded on the beach south of Buffalo harbor. All were safe.
I mention "Walk-in-the-Water" for another reason. In 1832 the Lancaster Presbyterian Church built their present house of worship with timbers salvaged from "Walk-in-the-Water". Interestingly enough the church was organized in 1818 six months before the launch of "Walk-in-the-Water".
As I mentioned in an earlier post the waterways were very important in transportation during the first half of the 19th century. Even today the waterways still play an important part.
"Walk-in-the-Water" was 338 tons, length of 135feet and width of 32. The width of the beam was 8 feet and 6 inches. She had a short life. In Oct. 1821 leaving Cleveland she ran into a typical gale. The boat began to leak, she turned back for Buffalo. One of the anchor ropes broke and she began to drag on the anchor. She grounded on the beach south of Buffalo harbor. All were safe.
I mention "Walk-in-the-Water" for another reason. In 1832 the Lancaster Presbyterian Church built their present house of worship with timbers salvaged from "Walk-in-the-Water". Interestingly enough the church was organized in 1818 six months before the launch of "Walk-in-the-Water".
Wednesday, October 7, 2015
Dinner Dresses thru the 19th Century
Today's tidbit are a few dinner dresses down through the 19th Century. First I'm sharing some tidbits from "The College of Life Or Practical Self" a description regarding dressing for Dinner.
How Ladies Should Dress.
Dressing for dinner only presents points of difficulty to the ladies; the rule to be followed by gentlemen is simple enough.
Several considerations serve to embarrass the gentler sex. For a “great” dinner, a lady dresses in a style which would be extravagant and out of keeping with a “small” dinner; yet the invitation is in both cases couched in the same terms. Moreover, a dinner is often the prelude to an evening party, or a visit to the opera, or some other form of amusement; and the style of dress must be suited to these contingencies also. One or two general rules may be laid down.
Full dinner dress means a low dress; the hair arranged with flowers or other ornaments; and a display of jewelry, according to taste. For a grand dinner, a lady dresses as elaborately as for a ball; but there is a great distinction between a ball dress and a dinner dress. Let no misguided young belle who is invited to a great house rush to the conclusion that it will be right for her to appear in a dress that she has worn in a ballroom. The style of thing required is wholly different. In the ball-room everything should be light, floating, diaphanous, ethereal, and calculated to produce a good general effect.
A dinner dress must be good in quality; it should be of silk of the latest make, with an ample train. By way of setting the dress olf, rich lace may be worn—Brussels, Mechlin, Honiton, Maltese or Cluny; but such light materials as blonde, tulle, areophane, tarlatane, etc., are quite out of place as trimmings.
Jewelry of almost any value may be worn at a great dinner—diamonds, pearls, emeralds, rubies, any kind ; but it is not in good taste to wear too much jewelry at any time.
As accessories, an opera-cloak, a fan, and a pair of perfectly white and perfectly fitting gloves must not be forgotten.
In dressing for an ordinary dinner—say a dinner of six or eight, or a dinner at a country house—the demi-toilette is sufficient. The dress should be made with a low body; is in good taste, and the shirt-studs may be choice, but should be in proportion to the means of the wearer.
It may be as well to remark that dinner~ parties are not supposed to be given on Sundays, and, therefore, when an invitation is accepted for that day—or when, on a visit, host and guests dine together—it is not necessary to dress; the ladies appearing in high dresses, or the demi-toilette at most; gentlemm in walking-dress.
1829
1832
1840
Unfortunately in my files I don't have an "Dinner Dress" between these two dates.
1864
1865
1871
1876
1880
1889
How Ladies Should Dress.
Dressing for dinner only presents points of difficulty to the ladies; the rule to be followed by gentlemen is simple enough.
Several considerations serve to embarrass the gentler sex. For a “great” dinner, a lady dresses in a style which would be extravagant and out of keeping with a “small” dinner; yet the invitation is in both cases couched in the same terms. Moreover, a dinner is often the prelude to an evening party, or a visit to the opera, or some other form of amusement; and the style of dress must be suited to these contingencies also. One or two general rules may be laid down.
Full dinner dress means a low dress; the hair arranged with flowers or other ornaments; and a display of jewelry, according to taste. For a grand dinner, a lady dresses as elaborately as for a ball; but there is a great distinction between a ball dress and a dinner dress. Let no misguided young belle who is invited to a great house rush to the conclusion that it will be right for her to appear in a dress that she has worn in a ballroom. The style of thing required is wholly different. In the ball-room everything should be light, floating, diaphanous, ethereal, and calculated to produce a good general effect.
A dinner dress must be good in quality; it should be of silk of the latest make, with an ample train. By way of setting the dress olf, rich lace may be worn—Brussels, Mechlin, Honiton, Maltese or Cluny; but such light materials as blonde, tulle, areophane, tarlatane, etc., are quite out of place as trimmings.
Jewelry of almost any value may be worn at a great dinner—diamonds, pearls, emeralds, rubies, any kind ; but it is not in good taste to wear too much jewelry at any time.
As accessories, an opera-cloak, a fan, and a pair of perfectly white and perfectly fitting gloves must not be forgotten.
In dressing for an ordinary dinner—say a dinner of six or eight, or a dinner at a country house—the demi-toilette is sufficient. The dress should be made with a low body; is in good taste, and the shirt-studs may be choice, but should be in proportion to the means of the wearer.
It may be as well to remark that dinner~ parties are not supposed to be given on Sundays, and, therefore, when an invitation is accepted for that day—or when, on a visit, host and guests dine together—it is not necessary to dress; the ladies appearing in high dresses, or the demi-toilette at most; gentlemm in walking-dress.
1829
1832
1840
Unfortunately in my files I don't have an "Dinner Dress" between these two dates.
1864
1865
1871
1876
1880
1889
Tuesday, March 31, 2015
Walnuts
Tidbits about the Walnut, scroll down to the bottom for an interesting recipe. Can you say ketcup?
The walnut-tree is a native of the Himalaya, Persia, and the southern provinces of the Caucasus. It was introduced into Greece and Italy some centuries before the Christian era. The walnut is now grown throughout temperate Europe.
Unripe walnut fruits, when the shell is still soft, make an excellent pickle; a delicate sweetmeat is prepared by boilingv them in sirup.
Walnuts contain a sweet oil much used in Southern Europe for food, and, under the name of nut-oi], for painting. The mate of walnut-kernels, or walnut-cake, is a good cattle food.
Walnuts in the shell yield one-third their weight (about 36 percent.) of peeled kernels, which are the crumpled cotyledons, or seed-leaves.
Storing Walnuts
During the summer shelled walnuts are kept in cold storage, but not ordinarily in large quantity. The in-shell stock seems to keep well enough in ordinary storage, particularly if fumigated occasionally against insects. Moreover, English buyers taking shelled walnuts from carryover stocks in September-October want the kernels to be freshly shelled just before shipment.
A product strange to Americans, but which accounts for sizable French tonnages, is the in-shell walnut in its fresh or green state. The crop is knocked off the trees as soon as the green hulls can be removed, and is rushed to market while the kernels are still moist and pliable. Western Europeans, particularly the English, relish these walnuts as a delicacy to be served with or in lieu of fruit at the end of a meal. They are cracked at the table and the moist pellicle, rather bitter at this stage, is peeled off before the pearlywhite and delicately flavored kernel is eaten.
The fresh walnut is a more important trade item in the Grenoble area than elsewhere, and large quantities, as much as 20 to 25 percent of the area's in-shell sales, are shipped to England, Belgium and the Netherlands, and Germany. The walnuts are bleached with sulfur, washed in a light chlorine solution (largely to check mold), size-graded, and packed in attractive 6-kilo burlap and 10-kilo mesh bags. They are then rushed to market through the fresh fruit and vegetable trade--entirely different channels from those through which dried walnuts are handled. Early in October 1955, wellgraded and packed fresh walnuts were quoted at 125 francs per kilo (about 16 cents per pound) f. o.b. packing plant, while dried walnuts of the same type were quoted at 190 francs (nearly 25 cents per pound).
Source: Filbert Bulletins ©1898
HARVESTING.
Harvesting the walnut is very simple, as most of the nuts do not have to be picked, for they, of their own accord, drop to the ground at maturity; yet considerable attention must be paid to the gathering of the crops so as to have clean, bright nuts that may command a high price and ready sale. The walnut harvest begins in September and ends in November. In some sections the crop comes in quite early and is gathered in September, overlapping into October; in others, the crop is not harvested so early; but October is the principal month, sometimes overlapping into November.
Some of the growers collect the nuts from the ground as they fall every day, others collect them every other day, and some every third day, until most of the crop has fallen of its own accord, and those remaining on the trees are knocked down by means of a pole. Boys and men are also employed to climb the trees and shake the nuts down; others agitate the limbs with a long pole having a hook at the end. The nuts that are ready to drop come down easily, and are picked up and dried on trays in the sun. It generally takes from three to four pickings to gather all the nuts from a tree. When the husk inclosing the nut shows no signs of cracking it is an indication that the nut is yet unripe, and when knocked down the kernels of many of these generally dry away and do not fill well. Then, again, if the nuts are allowed to hang on the trees or remain on the ground too long after falling, they absorb moisture and rapidly deteriorate in flavor, color, and keeping qualities. In the walnut sections along the coast damp fogs and dew prevail during the harvest time, rendering the husks quite moist, and the nuts contained inside become stained by the acid juice of the husks, which, if not removed, renders the nuts quite black, and lessens their market value. This acid is very strong and adhesive, and to remove it the nuts have to be washed and afterward dried. Hon. Ellwood Cooper, of Santa Barbara, has a most perfect apparatus for washing and drying the walnut, which is an invention of his own. It consists of an iron cylinder with a long opening on the top side, where the nuts are put in. When the nuts are washed the cylinder will turn with the opening down, thus letting the walnuts and water out. As with all other apparatus of this kind, it has to be seen to be appreciated. They are made by the Fulton Iron Works, of San Francisco, and cost from $125 to $140.
* "The 'hard' shells should and the 'soft' and 'paper' shells must be gathered as soon as possible after dropping from the trees, as it injures the quality and appearance of the nuts to remain long on the ground. They are usually dried on trays about 3 feet wide by 6 feet long, holding about one hundred pounds each. 'Soft' and 'paper' shells should be dried in the shade, and many of the growers have buildings for that purpose. After they are thoroughly dried they are bleached and then run over a screen with a one-inch mesh, into strong sacks of uniform size, each sack bearing the registered trademark of the 'Los Nietos and Eanchito Walnut Growers' Association,' and also the name of the individual grower, thereby settling the question of responsibility in case the nuts are not up to the required standard."
t "There are different modes of gathering: some clean the trees at once, and others go over them several times. I pick what has fallen without knocking. I then tap those limbs lightly on which the nuts are ripest, and the third time over I aim to clean the trees. The walnuts are picked up and put in sacks and barrels, so as to be easily
* A. Downer, of Rivera.
t Joseph Sexton, essay before Ninth State Fruit-Growers' Convention, 1888. handled, and hauled to a sunny place to dry, and should he placed on elevated platforms made of narrow boards, with spaces of one fourth of an inch between each board. The platform should be about 8 feet wide and 40 feet long, or as long as two men can handle a canvas to cover the beds, which should be done every night the dew falls. The nuts should be stirred in these beds once or twice each day, and with favorable weather they will dry sufficiently in three days, and are ready for market. I have always dried my walnuts by the sun and they have given good satisfaction, and for small orchards I think it is the cheapest and best way. Some dry by evaporation and claim it is preferable to the sun; that it sets the oil quickly and prevents the nut from becoming rancid. Others claim that it makes them so ; but be this as it may, those having large orchards cannot depend on drying all by natural heat, and the drier will have to be used, even if it is not so good for the nut."
*" In handling the nuts, I cure in dry-houses by artificial heat, heating sufficient to evaporate the water and set the oil of the nut. When this is done the nuts will keep sweet for an indefinite time. I have kept them as an experiment, in my store-house, which is of concrete, for five years, and at the end of that time they were as sweet as when first cured. With my facilities, I cure them in eight hours. In preparing them for market, I have a washing apparatus—invented by Mr. Cooper—which I use if the nuts are discolored, as they often are by coming in contact with leaves or shucks when there is dew or rain. Directly after washing they are thoroughly dried and cured in the dry-house."
t " In gathering soft-shells, the nuts should not be left long on the ground, as the sun and fog will cause the shell to crack and the nut to become ruined. They should not be left long in the gathering-sacks, as they will then sweat and turn black. If the nuts are to be washed it should be done as soon as emptied from the picking-sacks, as they will then clean much easier. After this, spread in trays for drying, if to be bleached they should be thoroughly dry before. We use trays 3 by 6 feet, with sides 4 or 6 inches high, and a slat bottom with J^-inch space between slats. For the past few years all walnuts grown in Rivera have been scoured by placing them in a wire cylinder, washing them and revolving it for five or ten minutes, or longer if necessary to make them clean, then throw on water enough to wash clean before taking out of washer. This greatly improves their appearance, removing all fiber and pieces of hull that might be sticking to them. It also gives them a much smoother appearance. Now place them in trays, and dry."
Source: California Walnut Industry ©1896
WALNUTS. Make a brine of salt and water, in the proportion of a quarter of a pound of salt to a quart of water; put the walnuts into this to soak for a week; or if you wish to soften them so that they may be soon ready for eating, run a larding pin through them in half a dozen places— this will allow the pickle to penetrate, and they will be much softer, and of better flavor, and ready much sooner than if not perforated: put them into a stewpan with such brine, and give them a gentle simmer; put them on a sieve to drain; then lay them on a fish plate, and let them stand in the air till they turn black—this may take a couple of days; put them into glass, or unglazed stone jars; fill these about three parts with the walnuts, and fill them up with the following pickle.
To each quart of the strongest vinegar put two ounces of black pepper, one of ginger, same of eschalots, same of salt, half an ounce of allspice, and half a drachm of cayenue. Put these into a stone jar; cover it with a bladder, wetted with pickle, tie over that some leather, and set the jar on a trivet by the side of the fire for three days, shaking it up three times a day, and then pour it while hot to the walnuts, and cover them down with bladder wetted with the pickle, leather, &c.
WALNUTS AND BUTTERNUTS. Gather them for pickling when the head of a pin will pierce them easily; run a large needle through them here and there, or score them on one side with a knife; lay them into a brine of salt-and-water for twelve days, changing the brine twice in that time; strain, and put them into a jar, and sprinkle a little salt over them. Boil four quarts of
vinegar for a hundred walnuts, allowing to each quart one ounce of whole pepper, and one of ginger, half an ounce each of sliced nutmeg and whole allspice, a table-spoonful of mustard seed, and one of scraped horseradish, one head of garlic, or a small onion; pour it boiling hot over the nuts, and put a plate on the jar; when cold, tie it closely down. Alter the nuts are used, the liquor may be boiled, strained, and bottled, to use as a pickle.
WALNUT KETCHUP. (1) Thoroughly well bruise one hundred and twenty young walnuts; put to them three quarters of a pound of salt, and a quart of good wine vinegar; stir them every day for a fortnight; then stram aitd squeeze the liquor from them through a cloth, and set it aside; put to the husks half a pint of vinegar, and let it stand all night; then strain and squeeze them as before, adding the liquor which is obtained from them to what was put aside the preceding day, and add to it one ounce and & quarter of whole black pepper, forty cloves, half an ounce of nutmegs bruised, or sliced, half an ounce of ginger, and five drachms of mace, and boil it lor half an hour; then strain it off-from the spices, and bottle it for use.
WALNUT KETCHUP. (2) Take six half-sieves of green walnut-shells, put them into a tub, mix them up well with common salt, (from two to three pounds,) let them stand fur six days, frequently heating and mashing them; by this time the shells become soft and pulpy; then by banking it up on one side of the tub, and at the same time by raising the tub on that side, the liquor will drain clear off to the other; then take that liquor out: the mashing and bankineup may be repeated as often as liquor ts found. The quantity will be about six quarts. When done, let it be simmered in an iron boiler as long as any scum arises; then bruise a quarter of a pound of ginger, a quarter of a pound of allspice, two ounces of long pepper, two ounces of cloves, with the above ingredients; let it slowly boil for half an hour; when bottled, let an equal quantity of the spice go into each bottle; when corked, let the bottles be filled quite up: cork them tight, seal them over, and put them into a cool and dry place for one year before they are used.
WALNUT KETCHUP, FOR FISH SAUCE. Take a quart of walnut pickle, add to it a quarter of a pound of anchovies and three-quarters of a pmt of red Port, and let it boil till reduced to one-third; then strain it, and when cold, put it into small bottles, and keep them closely corked.
WALNUT PICKLE. Put any quantity of the outside shells or green rinds of rtpe walnuts into a tub in which there is a tap-hole; sprinkle them with water, raise the tub on one side, that it may stand in a sloping direction, place another vessel under it to receive the juice as it drops from the tap-hole; this it will soon begin to do; and, when a sufficient quantity has been obtained, to one gallon of this black liquor add two large table-spoonfuls of salt, one large onion, a stick of horseradish, a bunch of sweet herbs, two bay leaves, a quarter of an ounce of black pepper, the same of allspice and of bruised ginger. Boil it slowly for twenty minutes; strain it, and, when cold, stir tt and bottle it for use, putting the spice info the bottles.
WALNUTS, TO PICKLE. Gather the nuts before the inside shell is hard, which may be known by trying them with a pin; lay them into salt and water nine days, changing the liquor every three days; then take them out, and dry them in the air on a sieve or mat; they should not touch each other, and they should be turned, that every side may become black alike; then put them into a jar. When half the nuts are in, put in an onion, with about thirty cloves stuck into it. and add the rest of the nuts. To one hundred walnuts allow half a pint of mustard seed, a quarter of an ounce of mace, half an ounce of peppercorns, and sixty bay leaves; boil all the spice in some good common vinegar, and pour it boiling upon the nuts, observing that they are entirely covered; stop the mouth of the jar with a cloth, and when cold, cover it with bladder or leather. In about six weeks they will be fit for use, when they should be examined, and if they have absorbed the vinegar so much as to leave any of the nuts dry, more should be added, but it need not be boiled.
Source: The Cook's Own Book ©1832
The walnut-tree is a native of the Himalaya, Persia, and the southern provinces of the Caucasus. It was introduced into Greece and Italy some centuries before the Christian era. The walnut is now grown throughout temperate Europe.
Unripe walnut fruits, when the shell is still soft, make an excellent pickle; a delicate sweetmeat is prepared by boilingv them in sirup.
Walnuts contain a sweet oil much used in Southern Europe for food, and, under the name of nut-oi], for painting. The mate of walnut-kernels, or walnut-cake, is a good cattle food.
Walnuts in the shell yield one-third their weight (about 36 percent.) of peeled kernels, which are the crumpled cotyledons, or seed-leaves.
Storing Walnuts
During the summer shelled walnuts are kept in cold storage, but not ordinarily in large quantity. The in-shell stock seems to keep well enough in ordinary storage, particularly if fumigated occasionally against insects. Moreover, English buyers taking shelled walnuts from carryover stocks in September-October want the kernels to be freshly shelled just before shipment.
A product strange to Americans, but which accounts for sizable French tonnages, is the in-shell walnut in its fresh or green state. The crop is knocked off the trees as soon as the green hulls can be removed, and is rushed to market while the kernels are still moist and pliable. Western Europeans, particularly the English, relish these walnuts as a delicacy to be served with or in lieu of fruit at the end of a meal. They are cracked at the table and the moist pellicle, rather bitter at this stage, is peeled off before the pearlywhite and delicately flavored kernel is eaten.
The fresh walnut is a more important trade item in the Grenoble area than elsewhere, and large quantities, as much as 20 to 25 percent of the area's in-shell sales, are shipped to England, Belgium and the Netherlands, and Germany. The walnuts are bleached with sulfur, washed in a light chlorine solution (largely to check mold), size-graded, and packed in attractive 6-kilo burlap and 10-kilo mesh bags. They are then rushed to market through the fresh fruit and vegetable trade--entirely different channels from those through which dried walnuts are handled. Early in October 1955, wellgraded and packed fresh walnuts were quoted at 125 francs per kilo (about 16 cents per pound) f. o.b. packing plant, while dried walnuts of the same type were quoted at 190 francs (nearly 25 cents per pound).
Source: Filbert Bulletins ©1898
HARVESTING.
Harvesting the walnut is very simple, as most of the nuts do not have to be picked, for they, of their own accord, drop to the ground at maturity; yet considerable attention must be paid to the gathering of the crops so as to have clean, bright nuts that may command a high price and ready sale. The walnut harvest begins in September and ends in November. In some sections the crop comes in quite early and is gathered in September, overlapping into October; in others, the crop is not harvested so early; but October is the principal month, sometimes overlapping into November.
Some of the growers collect the nuts from the ground as they fall every day, others collect them every other day, and some every third day, until most of the crop has fallen of its own accord, and those remaining on the trees are knocked down by means of a pole. Boys and men are also employed to climb the trees and shake the nuts down; others agitate the limbs with a long pole having a hook at the end. The nuts that are ready to drop come down easily, and are picked up and dried on trays in the sun. It generally takes from three to four pickings to gather all the nuts from a tree. When the husk inclosing the nut shows no signs of cracking it is an indication that the nut is yet unripe, and when knocked down the kernels of many of these generally dry away and do not fill well. Then, again, if the nuts are allowed to hang on the trees or remain on the ground too long after falling, they absorb moisture and rapidly deteriorate in flavor, color, and keeping qualities. In the walnut sections along the coast damp fogs and dew prevail during the harvest time, rendering the husks quite moist, and the nuts contained inside become stained by the acid juice of the husks, which, if not removed, renders the nuts quite black, and lessens their market value. This acid is very strong and adhesive, and to remove it the nuts have to be washed and afterward dried. Hon. Ellwood Cooper, of Santa Barbara, has a most perfect apparatus for washing and drying the walnut, which is an invention of his own. It consists of an iron cylinder with a long opening on the top side, where the nuts are put in. When the nuts are washed the cylinder will turn with the opening down, thus letting the walnuts and water out. As with all other apparatus of this kind, it has to be seen to be appreciated. They are made by the Fulton Iron Works, of San Francisco, and cost from $125 to $140.
* "The 'hard' shells should and the 'soft' and 'paper' shells must be gathered as soon as possible after dropping from the trees, as it injures the quality and appearance of the nuts to remain long on the ground. They are usually dried on trays about 3 feet wide by 6 feet long, holding about one hundred pounds each. 'Soft' and 'paper' shells should be dried in the shade, and many of the growers have buildings for that purpose. After they are thoroughly dried they are bleached and then run over a screen with a one-inch mesh, into strong sacks of uniform size, each sack bearing the registered trademark of the 'Los Nietos and Eanchito Walnut Growers' Association,' and also the name of the individual grower, thereby settling the question of responsibility in case the nuts are not up to the required standard."
t "There are different modes of gathering: some clean the trees at once, and others go over them several times. I pick what has fallen without knocking. I then tap those limbs lightly on which the nuts are ripest, and the third time over I aim to clean the trees. The walnuts are picked up and put in sacks and barrels, so as to be easily
* A. Downer, of Rivera.
t Joseph Sexton, essay before Ninth State Fruit-Growers' Convention, 1888. handled, and hauled to a sunny place to dry, and should he placed on elevated platforms made of narrow boards, with spaces of one fourth of an inch between each board. The platform should be about 8 feet wide and 40 feet long, or as long as two men can handle a canvas to cover the beds, which should be done every night the dew falls. The nuts should be stirred in these beds once or twice each day, and with favorable weather they will dry sufficiently in three days, and are ready for market. I have always dried my walnuts by the sun and they have given good satisfaction, and for small orchards I think it is the cheapest and best way. Some dry by evaporation and claim it is preferable to the sun; that it sets the oil quickly and prevents the nut from becoming rancid. Others claim that it makes them so ; but be this as it may, those having large orchards cannot depend on drying all by natural heat, and the drier will have to be used, even if it is not so good for the nut."
*" In handling the nuts, I cure in dry-houses by artificial heat, heating sufficient to evaporate the water and set the oil of the nut. When this is done the nuts will keep sweet for an indefinite time. I have kept them as an experiment, in my store-house, which is of concrete, for five years, and at the end of that time they were as sweet as when first cured. With my facilities, I cure them in eight hours. In preparing them for market, I have a washing apparatus—invented by Mr. Cooper—which I use if the nuts are discolored, as they often are by coming in contact with leaves or shucks when there is dew or rain. Directly after washing they are thoroughly dried and cured in the dry-house."
t " In gathering soft-shells, the nuts should not be left long on the ground, as the sun and fog will cause the shell to crack and the nut to become ruined. They should not be left long in the gathering-sacks, as they will then sweat and turn black. If the nuts are to be washed it should be done as soon as emptied from the picking-sacks, as they will then clean much easier. After this, spread in trays for drying, if to be bleached they should be thoroughly dry before. We use trays 3 by 6 feet, with sides 4 or 6 inches high, and a slat bottom with J^-inch space between slats. For the past few years all walnuts grown in Rivera have been scoured by placing them in a wire cylinder, washing them and revolving it for five or ten minutes, or longer if necessary to make them clean, then throw on water enough to wash clean before taking out of washer. This greatly improves their appearance, removing all fiber and pieces of hull that might be sticking to them. It also gives them a much smoother appearance. Now place them in trays, and dry."
Source: California Walnut Industry ©1896
WALNUTS. Make a brine of salt and water, in the proportion of a quarter of a pound of salt to a quart of water; put the walnuts into this to soak for a week; or if you wish to soften them so that they may be soon ready for eating, run a larding pin through them in half a dozen places— this will allow the pickle to penetrate, and they will be much softer, and of better flavor, and ready much sooner than if not perforated: put them into a stewpan with such brine, and give them a gentle simmer; put them on a sieve to drain; then lay them on a fish plate, and let them stand in the air till they turn black—this may take a couple of days; put them into glass, or unglazed stone jars; fill these about three parts with the walnuts, and fill them up with the following pickle.
To each quart of the strongest vinegar put two ounces of black pepper, one of ginger, same of eschalots, same of salt, half an ounce of allspice, and half a drachm of cayenue. Put these into a stone jar; cover it with a bladder, wetted with pickle, tie over that some leather, and set the jar on a trivet by the side of the fire for three days, shaking it up three times a day, and then pour it while hot to the walnuts, and cover them down with bladder wetted with the pickle, leather, &c.
WALNUTS AND BUTTERNUTS. Gather them for pickling when the head of a pin will pierce them easily; run a large needle through them here and there, or score them on one side with a knife; lay them into a brine of salt-and-water for twelve days, changing the brine twice in that time; strain, and put them into a jar, and sprinkle a little salt over them. Boil four quarts of
vinegar for a hundred walnuts, allowing to each quart one ounce of whole pepper, and one of ginger, half an ounce each of sliced nutmeg and whole allspice, a table-spoonful of mustard seed, and one of scraped horseradish, one head of garlic, or a small onion; pour it boiling hot over the nuts, and put a plate on the jar; when cold, tie it closely down. Alter the nuts are used, the liquor may be boiled, strained, and bottled, to use as a pickle.
WALNUT KETCHUP. (1) Thoroughly well bruise one hundred and twenty young walnuts; put to them three quarters of a pound of salt, and a quart of good wine vinegar; stir them every day for a fortnight; then stram aitd squeeze the liquor from them through a cloth, and set it aside; put to the husks half a pint of vinegar, and let it stand all night; then strain and squeeze them as before, adding the liquor which is obtained from them to what was put aside the preceding day, and add to it one ounce and & quarter of whole black pepper, forty cloves, half an ounce of nutmegs bruised, or sliced, half an ounce of ginger, and five drachms of mace, and boil it lor half an hour; then strain it off-from the spices, and bottle it for use.
WALNUT KETCHUP. (2) Take six half-sieves of green walnut-shells, put them into a tub, mix them up well with common salt, (from two to three pounds,) let them stand fur six days, frequently heating and mashing them; by this time the shells become soft and pulpy; then by banking it up on one side of the tub, and at the same time by raising the tub on that side, the liquor will drain clear off to the other; then take that liquor out: the mashing and bankineup may be repeated as often as liquor ts found. The quantity will be about six quarts. When done, let it be simmered in an iron boiler as long as any scum arises; then bruise a quarter of a pound of ginger, a quarter of a pound of allspice, two ounces of long pepper, two ounces of cloves, with the above ingredients; let it slowly boil for half an hour; when bottled, let an equal quantity of the spice go into each bottle; when corked, let the bottles be filled quite up: cork them tight, seal them over, and put them into a cool and dry place for one year before they are used.
WALNUT KETCHUP, FOR FISH SAUCE. Take a quart of walnut pickle, add to it a quarter of a pound of anchovies and three-quarters of a pmt of red Port, and let it boil till reduced to one-third; then strain it, and when cold, put it into small bottles, and keep them closely corked.
WALNUT PICKLE. Put any quantity of the outside shells or green rinds of rtpe walnuts into a tub in which there is a tap-hole; sprinkle them with water, raise the tub on one side, that it may stand in a sloping direction, place another vessel under it to receive the juice as it drops from the tap-hole; this it will soon begin to do; and, when a sufficient quantity has been obtained, to one gallon of this black liquor add two large table-spoonfuls of salt, one large onion, a stick of horseradish, a bunch of sweet herbs, two bay leaves, a quarter of an ounce of black pepper, the same of allspice and of bruised ginger. Boil it slowly for twenty minutes; strain it, and, when cold, stir tt and bottle it for use, putting the spice info the bottles.
WALNUTS, TO PICKLE. Gather the nuts before the inside shell is hard, which may be known by trying them with a pin; lay them into salt and water nine days, changing the liquor every three days; then take them out, and dry them in the air on a sieve or mat; they should not touch each other, and they should be turned, that every side may become black alike; then put them into a jar. When half the nuts are in, put in an onion, with about thirty cloves stuck into it. and add the rest of the nuts. To one hundred walnuts allow half a pint of mustard seed, a quarter of an ounce of mace, half an ounce of peppercorns, and sixty bay leaves; boil all the spice in some good common vinegar, and pour it boiling upon the nuts, observing that they are entirely covered; stop the mouth of the jar with a cloth, and when cold, cover it with bladder or leather. In about six weeks they will be fit for use, when they should be examined, and if they have absorbed the vinegar so much as to leave any of the nuts dry, more should be added, but it need not be boiled.
Source: The Cook's Own Book ©1832
Monday, July 14, 2014
Calico Fabric and Printing
Below are some tidbits about Calico Printing and fabric. While the fabric design did not start in the 19th Century, in fact it began in the 1700's, it was definitely an important part of our 19th century ancestors or characters.
Calico Printing is perhaps the most important branch springing from the parent stem of the cotton trade: it may be described as the art and process by which colours are placed on to the plain fabric, giving variations of form, and gradations of colour, more cheaply and expeditiously than in the loom;
...
The common import of the term Calico-Printer now, is a printer of all sorts of fabrics—calicoes, muslins, linens, silks, or woollens, or the many mixed varieties, composed of different materials.
Source: Calico Printing As an Art Manufacture, a Lecture ©1852
TOPICAL Dyeing or Calico Printing, is the art of printing various coloured patterns upon plain calicoes by applying certain colourless mordaunts to the cloth.
This beautiful art is one of great antiquity, and was carried to considerable perfection in India. As the object in this brief sketch is not to instruct the calico printer, but to give the general reader an idea of this singular art, we shall omit all the previous processes of preparing the calico for the printer.
The pattern to be impressed on the calico was formerly cut out in relief on a wooden block of the requisite size, exactly like a wooden cut for figures or diagrams. The wood used was generally holly, and the cutting of the pattern formed a separate trade called block-cutting. The perishable nature of wood, however, involved the printer often in much expense, and hence a great improvement has taken place by using slender pieces of brass or copper, which are fixed on the wood so as to produce the pattern, and which give greater sharpness and precision to the impressions. The next implement is the sieve with its case. The sieve consists of a broad hoop like that of a tambourin with a piece of superfine woollen cloth stretched tightly across it. The case consists of another wider hoop covered witli sheep skin or oil cloth. The sieve placed in its case is now plunged in a tub of gum water.
The mordaunt mixed up with paste made of flour or a thick solution of gum Arabic, or gum Senegal, or gum nigacanth, is then spread with a brush on the cloth of the sieve, a part of the process which is called teesing. When the mordaunt is colourless, as the acetate of alumine, a little purple dye with a decoction of Brazil wood is mixed up with it to sighten it as the workmen say, or to make the pattern apparent to the eye.
The workman now takes the pattern block in one hand and the sieve in the other, and applying the surface of the block to that of the sieve, he then takes up a sufficient quantity of the thickened mordaunt so as to cover every part of the surface of the pattern formed by the copper lines. He then applies the block to the calico and impresses it with a gentle blow from a mallet. In this manner he goes over the whole piece. When a variety of colours is required, several different mordaunts are required, as different colours require different mordaunts to fix them. In order to evaporate the acids of the mordaunts, which might weaken the fabric of the cloth, the calico is placed in a room called the stove/heated with flues to about 90°. When the common red liquor mordaunt is used, the calico remains here about 24 hours; but when citric acid is used, a much shorter time is nesessary, and when a strong muriate of lime has been employed, half an hour of the stove is sufficient.
When iron liquor is the mordaunt, the intensity of the colour is increased, and the process much improved by exposing the calico for several days to the atmosphere. The black oxide of iron then acquires an additional dose of oxygen, and approaches nearer to the red or peroxide, which is the preferable mordaunt. Mr. Parker suggests it as an object of inquiry, whether or not the substitution of a current of atmospheric air for a great part of the drying in the stove, might not be an advantage.
The calico is now washed with water and a little cow dung, at various temperatures, an operation of from 5 to 40 minutes, which revives the uncombined part of the mordaunt, and which is now performed in what is called dunging machines. Mr. Parker is of opinion, that the dung, (which Bethollet found to contain a substance like bile,) imparts an animal matter to the fibres of the calico, which acts as an additional mordaunt. When the goods are perfectly rinsed in river and
tepid water, they are boiled for ten or fifteen minutes in madder, and in the process called maddering, the calicoes receive, at one operation, all their requisite colours. The colouring matter of the madder is precipitated to a red by one mordaunt, to a purple by another, and to a black by a third, so that we can obtain every possible shade, from a lilac to a black, or from a pink to a red.
By adding to the madder some weld or bark, every shade from zbrown to an orange may be produced, and with weld or bark, also, we obtain all colours from a dark olive to a bright lemon. In order to produce the finest yellow or delicate lemon colour, the calico should be dried in the open air, as stove drying converts a yellow to an orange, and the dunging ■should not be performed at a higher temperature than 96° or 100°.
The calicoes are next to be branned, an operation which is effected by removing them from the weld or madder copper to a boiler containing wheat bran and water, in which all stains are cleared from the white portion, though at the risk of the colours being somewhat impaired. Mr. Parker has found that a peculiar redness may be imparted to all madder colours, by raising them with a mixture of bran and madder, that is, by adding a little bran to the madder, in the maddering process.
As the whites cannot always be cleared by the branning, lest the colours should be impaired, the rest of the operation of bleaching the whites is performed by exposure on the grass for some days; but in Scotland, this process has been effected in a few minutes, by immersion of the colours in a weak solution of one of the bleaching sails, such as oxymuriate of potash, soda, and magnesia.
The mordaunts used by the calico printers are oommonly acetate of iron for browns, blacks, lilacs, &c. and aeelate of alumine for all shades of yellows and reds, &c. Nitrate of iron, obtained by dissolving metallic iron in a peculiar kind of aquafortis, yields blacks, which, like those obtained from galls, are applied at once to the cloth, and are not afterwards raised by dying, like the black of the common iron liquor. Hence the black of the nitrate of iron can be mixed with other colours.
Another kind of calico printing, called resist work, is now in common use. A resist paste is composed of sulphate, nitrate, muriate, or acetate of copper, of which the sulphate is the best, mixed with flour paste, or any of the other gums, or with pipe-clay and gum. With this paste the pattern is printed on the calico, which when sufficiently dry is repeatedly dipped in the blue vat, till they have received the requisite depth of tint. The goods are then washed and passed through diluted sulphuric acid, and all the parts printed by the preparation of copper are found to be of a good white, in consequence of having resisted the action of the indigo, though all the rest of the calico has been permanently dyed. The deep blue calicoes, with white figures or white spots, are generally executed by the resist process with indigo; and by a peculiar method, with subsequent dying or madder, weld or bark, red or yellow spots or figures may be produced upon a blue ground.
A method of resisting;, or stopping out particular colours with wax, though an expensive one, ■was formerly in general use, and wax is still employed in India for preserving the white portions. In the manufacture of silk Bandana handkerchiefs, a preparation of tallow and ro3in, made fluid by heat, is used for printing the patterns, which are thus left white, and preserved from the operation of the indigo, which gives the rest a blue colour.
When the ground is to be white, and only a single sprig or small object is to form the pattern, it is executed by means of a pencil, with what is called pencil blue, which is formed of 10 oz. of finely ground indigo, 20 oz. of quick lime in lumps, 20 oz. of potash of commerce, and 10 oz. of orpiment, mixed up in a gallon of water, and thickened with gum Senegal.
In another operation of calico printing, called chemical discharge work, the goods are dyed of one uniform colour, with a mixture of iron iiquor, and any of the dyeing substances. When they are washed, dried, turned, and calendered, a discharging liquor is prepared by dissolving in one of the mineral acids a portion of one or more of the metals, according to the nature of the colour to be discharged, or of that to be produced. For example, if a piece of calico, treated with a decoction of Brazil wood, and dyed black by being maddered with iron liquor, be printed when dry, with a peculiar solution of tirr, the iron in the dye will be dissolved, and the printed part will instantly be converted from a deep black into a brilliant crimson.
The introduction of cylinder printing into the calico manufacture, is a most important step in its progress. Cylinders from 18 to 42 inches long, and from 3i to 5 inches wide, are now formed by hammering plates of copper into a circular form, though sometimes they are bored out of a solid mass of copper. The pattern is enchased on the surface. The cylinders furnish themselves with colouring matter, placed in a trough, and are kept clear by a steel knife, called the doctor, which passes over the surface, when they are charged with the thickened colour. The cylinder, thus coloured, rolls over the piece of calico, from one end to the other, and communicates the pattern with the greatest certainty and accuracy. Sometimes two cylinders are used to give two different colours at the same time. Mr. A. Parkinson of Manchester, has invented a machine, on which one cylinder and two surface rollers give three distinct colours.
Other machines have been employed, called surface machines. They consist of cylinders of wood, with the pattern formed upon them, exactly like the pattern blocks already described. By means of those cylinder machines, a piece of calico, which employs a man and a boy three hours, may be done in three or three and a half minutes.
Hence the British calico printer has been able to finish calico goods, in which the printing consists of precipitating the colouring matter of logwood and other vegetable dyes, without using any mordaunt or previous preparation whatever, at the rate of one penny per yard, including every expense of colour, paste, and printing. In such goods, the pat
tern will be washed out by the first shower of rain. For a full account of topical dyeing in calico printing, the reader is referred to Parke's Chemical Essays, from the information contained in which we have drawn up the above brief article. See also our article Bandana Handkerchiefs, Vol. III. p. 213.
Source: The Edinburgh Encyclopedia ©1832
Calico Printing is perhaps the most important branch springing from the parent stem of the cotton trade: it may be described as the art and process by which colours are placed on to the plain fabric, giving variations of form, and gradations of colour, more cheaply and expeditiously than in the loom;
...
The common import of the term Calico-Printer now, is a printer of all sorts of fabrics—calicoes, muslins, linens, silks, or woollens, or the many mixed varieties, composed of different materials.
Source: Calico Printing As an Art Manufacture, a Lecture ©1852
TOPICAL Dyeing or Calico Printing, is the art of printing various coloured patterns upon plain calicoes by applying certain colourless mordaunts to the cloth.
This beautiful art is one of great antiquity, and was carried to considerable perfection in India. As the object in this brief sketch is not to instruct the calico printer, but to give the general reader an idea of this singular art, we shall omit all the previous processes of preparing the calico for the printer.
The pattern to be impressed on the calico was formerly cut out in relief on a wooden block of the requisite size, exactly like a wooden cut for figures or diagrams. The wood used was generally holly, and the cutting of the pattern formed a separate trade called block-cutting. The perishable nature of wood, however, involved the printer often in much expense, and hence a great improvement has taken place by using slender pieces of brass or copper, which are fixed on the wood so as to produce the pattern, and which give greater sharpness and precision to the impressions. The next implement is the sieve with its case. The sieve consists of a broad hoop like that of a tambourin with a piece of superfine woollen cloth stretched tightly across it. The case consists of another wider hoop covered witli sheep skin or oil cloth. The sieve placed in its case is now plunged in a tub of gum water.
The mordaunt mixed up with paste made of flour or a thick solution of gum Arabic, or gum Senegal, or gum nigacanth, is then spread with a brush on the cloth of the sieve, a part of the process which is called teesing. When the mordaunt is colourless, as the acetate of alumine, a little purple dye with a decoction of Brazil wood is mixed up with it to sighten it as the workmen say, or to make the pattern apparent to the eye.
The workman now takes the pattern block in one hand and the sieve in the other, and applying the surface of the block to that of the sieve, he then takes up a sufficient quantity of the thickened mordaunt so as to cover every part of the surface of the pattern formed by the copper lines. He then applies the block to the calico and impresses it with a gentle blow from a mallet. In this manner he goes over the whole piece. When a variety of colours is required, several different mordaunts are required, as different colours require different mordaunts to fix them. In order to evaporate the acids of the mordaunts, which might weaken the fabric of the cloth, the calico is placed in a room called the stove/heated with flues to about 90°. When the common red liquor mordaunt is used, the calico remains here about 24 hours; but when citric acid is used, a much shorter time is nesessary, and when a strong muriate of lime has been employed, half an hour of the stove is sufficient.
When iron liquor is the mordaunt, the intensity of the colour is increased, and the process much improved by exposing the calico for several days to the atmosphere. The black oxide of iron then acquires an additional dose of oxygen, and approaches nearer to the red or peroxide, which is the preferable mordaunt. Mr. Parker suggests it as an object of inquiry, whether or not the substitution of a current of atmospheric air for a great part of the drying in the stove, might not be an advantage.
The calico is now washed with water and a little cow dung, at various temperatures, an operation of from 5 to 40 minutes, which revives the uncombined part of the mordaunt, and which is now performed in what is called dunging machines. Mr. Parker is of opinion, that the dung, (which Bethollet found to contain a substance like bile,) imparts an animal matter to the fibres of the calico, which acts as an additional mordaunt. When the goods are perfectly rinsed in river and
tepid water, they are boiled for ten or fifteen minutes in madder, and in the process called maddering, the calicoes receive, at one operation, all their requisite colours. The colouring matter of the madder is precipitated to a red by one mordaunt, to a purple by another, and to a black by a third, so that we can obtain every possible shade, from a lilac to a black, or from a pink to a red.
By adding to the madder some weld or bark, every shade from zbrown to an orange may be produced, and with weld or bark, also, we obtain all colours from a dark olive to a bright lemon. In order to produce the finest yellow or delicate lemon colour, the calico should be dried in the open air, as stove drying converts a yellow to an orange, and the dunging ■should not be performed at a higher temperature than 96° or 100°.
The calicoes are next to be branned, an operation which is effected by removing them from the weld or madder copper to a boiler containing wheat bran and water, in which all stains are cleared from the white portion, though at the risk of the colours being somewhat impaired. Mr. Parker has found that a peculiar redness may be imparted to all madder colours, by raising them with a mixture of bran and madder, that is, by adding a little bran to the madder, in the maddering process.
As the whites cannot always be cleared by the branning, lest the colours should be impaired, the rest of the operation of bleaching the whites is performed by exposure on the grass for some days; but in Scotland, this process has been effected in a few minutes, by immersion of the colours in a weak solution of one of the bleaching sails, such as oxymuriate of potash, soda, and magnesia.
The mordaunts used by the calico printers are oommonly acetate of iron for browns, blacks, lilacs, &c. and aeelate of alumine for all shades of yellows and reds, &c. Nitrate of iron, obtained by dissolving metallic iron in a peculiar kind of aquafortis, yields blacks, which, like those obtained from galls, are applied at once to the cloth, and are not afterwards raised by dying, like the black of the common iron liquor. Hence the black of the nitrate of iron can be mixed with other colours.
Another kind of calico printing, called resist work, is now in common use. A resist paste is composed of sulphate, nitrate, muriate, or acetate of copper, of which the sulphate is the best, mixed with flour paste, or any of the other gums, or with pipe-clay and gum. With this paste the pattern is printed on the calico, which when sufficiently dry is repeatedly dipped in the blue vat, till they have received the requisite depth of tint. The goods are then washed and passed through diluted sulphuric acid, and all the parts printed by the preparation of copper are found to be of a good white, in consequence of having resisted the action of the indigo, though all the rest of the calico has been permanently dyed. The deep blue calicoes, with white figures or white spots, are generally executed by the resist process with indigo; and by a peculiar method, with subsequent dying or madder, weld or bark, red or yellow spots or figures may be produced upon a blue ground.
A method of resisting;, or stopping out particular colours with wax, though an expensive one, ■was formerly in general use, and wax is still employed in India for preserving the white portions. In the manufacture of silk Bandana handkerchiefs, a preparation of tallow and ro3in, made fluid by heat, is used for printing the patterns, which are thus left white, and preserved from the operation of the indigo, which gives the rest a blue colour.
When the ground is to be white, and only a single sprig or small object is to form the pattern, it is executed by means of a pencil, with what is called pencil blue, which is formed of 10 oz. of finely ground indigo, 20 oz. of quick lime in lumps, 20 oz. of potash of commerce, and 10 oz. of orpiment, mixed up in a gallon of water, and thickened with gum Senegal.
In another operation of calico printing, called chemical discharge work, the goods are dyed of one uniform colour, with a mixture of iron iiquor, and any of the dyeing substances. When they are washed, dried, turned, and calendered, a discharging liquor is prepared by dissolving in one of the mineral acids a portion of one or more of the metals, according to the nature of the colour to be discharged, or of that to be produced. For example, if a piece of calico, treated with a decoction of Brazil wood, and dyed black by being maddered with iron liquor, be printed when dry, with a peculiar solution of tirr, the iron in the dye will be dissolved, and the printed part will instantly be converted from a deep black into a brilliant crimson.
The introduction of cylinder printing into the calico manufacture, is a most important step in its progress. Cylinders from 18 to 42 inches long, and from 3i to 5 inches wide, are now formed by hammering plates of copper into a circular form, though sometimes they are bored out of a solid mass of copper. The pattern is enchased on the surface. The cylinders furnish themselves with colouring matter, placed in a trough, and are kept clear by a steel knife, called the doctor, which passes over the surface, when they are charged with the thickened colour. The cylinder, thus coloured, rolls over the piece of calico, from one end to the other, and communicates the pattern with the greatest certainty and accuracy. Sometimes two cylinders are used to give two different colours at the same time. Mr. A. Parkinson of Manchester, has invented a machine, on which one cylinder and two surface rollers give three distinct colours.
Other machines have been employed, called surface machines. They consist of cylinders of wood, with the pattern formed upon them, exactly like the pattern blocks already described. By means of those cylinder machines, a piece of calico, which employs a man and a boy three hours, may be done in three or three and a half minutes.
Hence the British calico printer has been able to finish calico goods, in which the printing consists of precipitating the colouring matter of logwood and other vegetable dyes, without using any mordaunt or previous preparation whatever, at the rate of one penny per yard, including every expense of colour, paste, and printing. In such goods, the pat
tern will be washed out by the first shower of rain. For a full account of topical dyeing in calico printing, the reader is referred to Parke's Chemical Essays, from the information contained in which we have drawn up the above brief article. See also our article Bandana Handkerchiefs, Vol. III. p. 213.
Source: The Edinburgh Encyclopedia ©1832
Wednesday, July 2, 2014
Historical Fashions Index by Year
Hi all,
Below is a list with links of Historical Fashions from the 19th Century. I did this a while ago and have continued to update that list but I think it's time to have a newer and fully updated list.
1832
1832 Fashion Descriptions
1834
1834 Fashions
1835
1835 Fashions
1840
1840 Ladies Fashions
1840 Ladies Fashions Part 2
1850
1850 Ladies Fashions
1855
1855 Fashions
1856
1856 Fashions
1860
1860 Fashions Part 1
1860 Fashions Part 2
1862
1862 Fashion Accessories
1862 Fashions
1863
1863 Fashions
1864
1864 Fashions
1864 Bonnets
1865
1865 Fashions
1865 Fashions Part 2
1866
1866 Part 1
1866 Part 2
1867
1867 Fashions Part 1
1867 Fashions Part 2
1868
1868 Fashions Part 1
1868 Fashions Part 2
1868 Fashions Part 3
1868 Fashions Part 4
1868 Fashions Part 5
1868 Fashions Part 6
1869
1869 Hair Combs
1869 Fashionable Hair and Headdresses
1869 Everyday Fashion
1870
1870 Winter Fashions for Men
1870 Ladies Fashions
1870 Riding Habit with Trousers for Women
1870 Gentlemen's Hats
1871
!871 Fashion Accessories
1871 Fashions
1871 Fashions Part 2
1872
1872 Fashions
1872 Fashions
1873
1873 Fashion Accessories
1874
1874 Fashions Part 1
1874 Fashions Part 2
1875
1875 Fashions Part 1
1875 Fashions Part 2
1876
1876 Fashion Accessories
1876 Fashions
1877
1877 Ladies Hat & Bonnet Fashions
1877 Fashions
1878
1878 Ladies & Children's Fashions
1879
1879 Fashions
1879 Part 2
1880
1880 Fashion Accessories
1880 Fashions
1881
1881 Winter Fashions
1881 Fashion Accessories
1881 Fashion Overcoats
1881 Men's Fashions
1881 Hats
1881 Ladies Fashions
1882
1882 Winter Fashions
1883
1883 Fashions
1887
1887 Gentlemen's Hats
1890
1890 Ladies Hats
1890 Fashions
1891 & 1896
1891 & 1896 Winter Fashions
1894
Bustles & Dress Forms
1896
1896 Spring Gown Womens Fashions
Below is a list with links of Historical Fashions from the 19th Century. I did this a while ago and have continued to update that list but I think it's time to have a newer and fully updated list.
1832
1832 Fashion Descriptions
1834
1834 Fashions
1835
1835 Fashions
1840
1840 Ladies Fashions
1840 Ladies Fashions Part 2
1850
1850 Ladies Fashions
1855
1855 Fashions
1856
1856 Fashions
1860
1860 Fashions Part 1
1860 Fashions Part 2
1862
1862 Fashion Accessories
1862 Fashions
1863
1863 Fashions
1864
1864 Fashions
1864 Bonnets
1865
1865 Fashions
1865 Fashions Part 2
1866
1866 Part 1
1866 Part 2
1867
1867 Fashions Part 1
1867 Fashions Part 2
1868
1868 Fashions Part 1
1868 Fashions Part 2
1868 Fashions Part 3
1868 Fashions Part 4
1868 Fashions Part 5
1868 Fashions Part 6
1869
1869 Hair Combs
1869 Fashionable Hair and Headdresses
1869 Everyday Fashion
1870
1870 Winter Fashions for Men
1870 Ladies Fashions
1870 Riding Habit with Trousers for Women
1870 Gentlemen's Hats
1871
!871 Fashion Accessories
1871 Fashions
1871 Fashions Part 2
1872
1872 Fashions
1872 Fashions
1873
1873 Fashion Accessories
1874
1874 Fashions Part 1
1874 Fashions Part 2
1875
1875 Fashions Part 1
1875 Fashions Part 2
1876
1876 Fashion Accessories
1876 Fashions
1877
1877 Ladies Hat & Bonnet Fashions
1877 Fashions
1878
1878 Ladies & Children's Fashions
1879
1879 Fashions
1879 Part 2
1880
1880 Fashion Accessories
1880 Fashions
1881
1881 Winter Fashions
1881 Fashion Accessories
1881 Fashion Overcoats
1881 Men's Fashions
1881 Hats
1881 Ladies Fashions
1882
1882 Winter Fashions
1883
1883 Fashions
1887
1887 Gentlemen's Hats
1890
1890 Ladies Hats
1890 Fashions
1891 & 1896
1891 & 1896 Winter Fashions
1894
Bustles & Dress Forms
1896
1896 Spring Gown Womens Fashions
Wednesday, March 19, 2014
Fashion Descriptions from 1832
Images from 1832 are few and far between. Below are some description excerpts from "The Maids, Wives, and Widows' Penny Magazine and Gazette of Fashion ©1832
FROM THE WORLD OF FASHION.
Hats and Bonnets.—There is not yet any decided change in their form, but we perceive that the brims have rather increased in size within the last month. We may cite among the prettiest of the new half dress bonnets, one composed of moire of a perfectly new shade of green, trimmed with a bouquet of short ostrich feathers to correspond, placed very high on one side, and the curtain at the back of the crown partially raised by a knot of ribbon also to correspond. Another and still more elegant half-dress bonnet is composed of straw-coloured velours epingle; it is a iiAi of small size, trimmed with three mergucrites, to correspond, but lightly spotted with cherry-colour. Several black satin and velours tpingli hats have already appeared; they are lined with straw-colour, or pale rose colour, and trimmed either with short ostrich feathers to correspond, or with bouquets of geraniums, or chrysanthemums. In some instances one dahlia only is employed, which must correspond in colour with the hat. If feathers are used, they must form a compact bouquet, instead of falling in different directions.
Out-Door Costume, New Materials for Mantle Dresses.— The first is the Cameleon, which well deserves its name: one side flowered in large bouquets, and striking colours; the oilier is striped. These mantles are not lined, and are so made that either side can be worn. The Macabre, a light material composed ef silk and wool, and of small patterns, with rich Gothic or flowered borders. Buridan, a silk of a new and uncommonly rich kind; it is striped horizontally in very broad stripes, in two shades of the same colour, a's emerald upon dark green, &c. &c.; the stripes are figured in satin, which also corresponds. Thibet of a new Tund, called Persian,—the patterns of these mantles offer the best imitation we have ever seen of Indian shawls. Satin & colonna, the columns formed of deeper shades of the same colour; these are equally elegant and novel. We close our list with a material of a very economical kind: it is a washing silk, in a very striking pattern of Arabesques. Among the new materials for dresses we cite the tissue of Sumatra; it is extremely soft and brilliant, and has the advantage of never creasing. Chalyt of new patterns, and shawl dresses. Satin and moire are also much in favour, both for pelisses and robes ;^ the former are most likely to be very geherally adopted. Some of the new ones are made without pelerines, with a corsage up to the throat, and full before and behind, the fulness is retained by bands upon the shoulders and by the ceinture. A trimming consisting either of dents or rouleaux, descends from the waist on each side of the skirt. It nearly meets at the ceinture, but descends in a sloping direction. Sleeves are still of thesame form, and it is generally believed that they will remain so during the winter.
Robes for out-door dresses are generally made high. We think that the skirts both of robes and pelisses have increased in width; they are worn something longer than last season. Muffs begin to appear, and will probably by the end of the month be generally adopted. Thos'e of sable are most fashionable; Isabella bear is also a fur in high estimation. Russian fox, French martin, and grey squirrel are genteel, though not expensive furs. Several palatine tippets have appeared, but they are by no means so generally adopted as boas.
Make and Materials of Evening Dress.—Some rich gauzes and figured gros dc Naples have already appeared; but the prettiest of the new materials is the Satin SylpliUe; it is exceedingly soft and brilliant; those of ribbon patterns will be most in favour. Plain Chaly and Cashmere moire, and moire Satinte, are all Ukely to be in request. The corsages of dress gowns are almost all of crossed draperies in front, with the backs plain at the top and full at the bottom of the waist. We see, it is true, a few in cross drapery behind, but they are very disadvantageous to the shape. One of the prettiest evening dress corsages that has appeared for some lime, is composed of ribbons and blonde lace: it forms the shape in a most advantageous manner, and can be worn with dresses of different materials. Short sleeves are invariably of the single bouffant shape, and generally trimmed with full knots of ribbons. Long sleeves are of blonde lace, or sometimes of white gauze embroidered in colours to correspond with the dress. Trimmings are expected to be very much worn, particularly embroidery in coloured silks, 'and in chenille. Ribbon trimmings will also be very generally adopted. The most fashionable ccinturcs are of satin figured in velvet; the pattern is usually a wreath; the velvet is of the eame colour a.< the satin, but always of a darker shade. Head-dresses in Evening Dress.—Crape hats trimmed with a bouquet of anemonies, or of chrysanthemums, or a single moss rose, or a bouquet of marabous, will be very generally adopted. Blonde lace, arranged somewhat in the cap style, but so as to partially display the hair, will also be in favor; there is something at once original and very graceful in this style of coiffure. It is supposed, however, that head-dresses of hair will be most prominent, and we have reason to believe that they will exhibit more variety than they have done for many years past; but nothing" can be certainly known upon the subject until next month. The colours that will be most in favour are sea-green, apple-green, dahlia, bleu Hatty, Esterhazy, darel-colour, and various shades ot brown and rose-colour.
Evening Dress.—It is of chaly, printed in stripes of alternate gold-colour, violet, and white; they are thickly covered with a delicate pattern of fancy foliage. The corsage is low, and ornamented with drapery folds crossed upon the hreast in front; it is plain and square behind. The sleeves are of the gigot shape, and of the usual size. White satin hat with a round brim, and very low crown. The inside of the brim is decorated with an ornament of the heart shape, composed of folds of rose-coloured gauze ribbon, and edged with blond lace. A quilling of blond net descends in the stile of a mob cap under the chin. A bouquet of roses, intermingled with knots of white gauze ribbon adonis the crown. The scarf is of white gauze.
Walking Drees For December.—A Spanish brown .in-] i mere pelisse. The corsage is high and plain; the sleeves are of the usual form. The pelerine is double: it is very large, and presents, both in back and front, the exact shape of a heart; it is embroidered an a broad rich i'ancy border, with silk to correspond. A similar embroidery, but in a larger pattern, goes down each side of the front, and round the border of the skirt. The bonnet is of white watered ffros de Naples, with a round and rather deep brim, lined with crimson velvet; small round crown, trimmed in ft very novel style, with a full band
of the same material, knots of ribbon, and a single ostrich feather. The morning cap worn under it is of• blond net, as is also the ml!' round the throat. The sitting figure gives a back view of the dress just described, but without the embroidery.
Mantles are still more generally adopted in Walking Dress than they were last month. We have seen a few fancy ones composed of Merinos, with shewy borders, printed rouml the bottom and up the fronts of the Mantles, and round the Cape. They ore not very generally worn, olid
certainly they are by no means adapted to promenidc dres*. Those of groi de Ifapta, with a plush border of the same colour as the dress, but shaded in a diamond pattern, a little darker, are much more lady like.
Sat in and velvet of dark colours are fashionable for Bonnets; the latter material is particularly so. We 3ee also some of a verv rich plain Silk; it is known here by the name of Rrps; in France it is called pros tic /mini. The shape of Walking Bonnets is a little altered, the brims are not so close, aim are all made round. The crowns are still made low; they begin to be more trimmed. A pretty and novel style of trimming consists of a full cluster of bows placed in front of the crown; those in the centre are larger than those at the sides; they are attached near the top; a twisted band of ribbon descends from this knot, traverses the crown in a slanting direction, and meets at the back under a small bow, with a cluster of short ends in the centre. We should observe- that a short full curtain, cut bias, is always attached to the back of the crown. We also see a good many bonnets trimmed with two or three short ostrich feathers, the colour of the bonnet; where this is the case they are inserted in a band of ribbon, which forms a point in the front of the crown, and descending obliquely, ends in a bow at the bottom, a little on one side; a knot, consisting of two short bows, with ends, which fall upon the brim, is attached to the bottom of the feathers. The only ornament for the inside uf the brims of Walking Bonnets is a quilling of blond net, which, instead of descending from the sides of the face only, as has been latterly the case, now encircles it. and either descends like a mob cap under the chin, or ties like a round one with a ribbon. Black 1 .ace Veils are very fashionable, more so indeed than they have been for some seasons past.
A great variety of shewy Mantl.-s I ave been introduced for carriage dress and evening panic's. The most elegant are those of grot de Naples, with plain grounds, as green, lavender, &c. &c., and broad rich painted borders. These are very fashionable for evening parties and for the Opera. Those of fine cachmere, striped and figured in a great variety of patterns, are now worn in morning drees. Some of these last have a second pelerine of the heart form, composed of velvet, which has a very rich effect.
Hats and Bonnets in carriage dress are composed of velvet, of satin lined, and partly trimmed with velvet—teny velvet, called by the French velourt ipingli, and of fancy silks and satins. Hata are most in request; they are betveen the bat and bonnet shape, neither so close as the one, nor so wide as the other. Some are trimmed inside the brim with gauze ribbons to correspond, folded across the front, and puffed at the sides; others with ribbon, edged with narrow blond lace: the crowns are decorated with flowers or feathers. The former are most fashionable. Those of spring or the early part of summer are preferred.
Shawl dresses are verv fashionable for evening parties, particularly those with , 1.11 "k green or crimson grounds, and a rich palm or flowered border round the skirt. The wearer is a lady of certain age, or the party is in genteel, but not high life. The dress is made half high, with a velvet lappel of the pelerine kind falling over, aud long sleeves, with velvet cuHs, or else long sleeves of white crlpe Hue (we give the French name, because it is known by no other), and a small velvet half sleeve. For grand parties the bodv of the dress should be cut very low, and draped across the front so as to display a white satin under body, trimmed with blond lace; the sleeves should be short, of white satin, and nearly covered with two or three falls of blond lace. Satin dresses are also very much worn by Matronly Indies. They are made in the same style, except that there is no trimming to the bottom. A variety of figured silks, which aie all known here under the name of figured grot de Naples, are fashionable both for young and Matronly Ladies; fur the former the body should be made low. A good many have a falling tucker of blond lace. Others are trimmed with it 'round the back and shoulders only. Short sleeves are beginning to be more generally worn by young Ladies, but long ones of white gauze are equally fashionable.
Head-dresses of hair are the only ones adopted by young ladies in evening dress. They are of different sorts. Some ladies have the hair parted on the forehead, and twisted up in a bow knot behind. This is called the Grecian style; it can only become a face with regularly beautiful features. Tin- half Grecian style is that in which the hair is curled on the forehead, but arranged as ubove described behind. The most generally becoming, and also most generally style is, the hair in curls or ringlets on the forehead, and in one or two bows on the crown of the head. Knots of ribbon or sprigs of flowers are employed to ornament these head dresses.
Velvet or white satin h:its with very open brims trimmed with blond lace, ribbons, and flowers are fashionable for married ladies; some hats are trimmed with feathers, but these last are not so numerous. Blond lace caps are still more fashionable, particularly those trimmed in the manner we are about to describe. The lace is turned back in the usual way, and a single rose is placed oil one side; a light wreath of foliage issues from the rose, encircles the forehead and turns partially back upon the summit of the bead round the caul, in the style of a crown. There is no ribbon employed for these caps' as the lappets are of blond lace; they are rounded at the corners and hang loose.
To the list of fashionable colours which we announced in our Number of the I7lh November, we must add dahlia, violet, and different shades of fawn colour, aud grey.
FROM THE WORLD OF FASHION.
Hats and Bonnets.—There is not yet any decided change in their form, but we perceive that the brims have rather increased in size within the last month. We may cite among the prettiest of the new half dress bonnets, one composed of moire of a perfectly new shade of green, trimmed with a bouquet of short ostrich feathers to correspond, placed very high on one side, and the curtain at the back of the crown partially raised by a knot of ribbon also to correspond. Another and still more elegant half-dress bonnet is composed of straw-coloured velours epingle; it is a iiAi of small size, trimmed with three mergucrites, to correspond, but lightly spotted with cherry-colour. Several black satin and velours tpingli hats have already appeared; they are lined with straw-colour, or pale rose colour, and trimmed either with short ostrich feathers to correspond, or with bouquets of geraniums, or chrysanthemums. In some instances one dahlia only is employed, which must correspond in colour with the hat. If feathers are used, they must form a compact bouquet, instead of falling in different directions.
Out-Door Costume, New Materials for Mantle Dresses.— The first is the Cameleon, which well deserves its name: one side flowered in large bouquets, and striking colours; the oilier is striped. These mantles are not lined, and are so made that either side can be worn. The Macabre, a light material composed ef silk and wool, and of small patterns, with rich Gothic or flowered borders. Buridan, a silk of a new and uncommonly rich kind; it is striped horizontally in very broad stripes, in two shades of the same colour, a's emerald upon dark green, &c. &c.; the stripes are figured in satin, which also corresponds. Thibet of a new Tund, called Persian,—the patterns of these mantles offer the best imitation we have ever seen of Indian shawls. Satin & colonna, the columns formed of deeper shades of the same colour; these are equally elegant and novel. We close our list with a material of a very economical kind: it is a washing silk, in a very striking pattern of Arabesques. Among the new materials for dresses we cite the tissue of Sumatra; it is extremely soft and brilliant, and has the advantage of never creasing. Chalyt of new patterns, and shawl dresses. Satin and moire are also much in favour, both for pelisses and robes ;^ the former are most likely to be very geherally adopted. Some of the new ones are made without pelerines, with a corsage up to the throat, and full before and behind, the fulness is retained by bands upon the shoulders and by the ceinture. A trimming consisting either of dents or rouleaux, descends from the waist on each side of the skirt. It nearly meets at the ceinture, but descends in a sloping direction. Sleeves are still of thesame form, and it is generally believed that they will remain so during the winter.
Robes for out-door dresses are generally made high. We think that the skirts both of robes and pelisses have increased in width; they are worn something longer than last season. Muffs begin to appear, and will probably by the end of the month be generally adopted. Thos'e of sable are most fashionable; Isabella bear is also a fur in high estimation. Russian fox, French martin, and grey squirrel are genteel, though not expensive furs. Several palatine tippets have appeared, but they are by no means so generally adopted as boas.
Make and Materials of Evening Dress.—Some rich gauzes and figured gros dc Naples have already appeared; but the prettiest of the new materials is the Satin SylpliUe; it is exceedingly soft and brilliant; those of ribbon patterns will be most in favour. Plain Chaly and Cashmere moire, and moire Satinte, are all Ukely to be in request. The corsages of dress gowns are almost all of crossed draperies in front, with the backs plain at the top and full at the bottom of the waist. We see, it is true, a few in cross drapery behind, but they are very disadvantageous to the shape. One of the prettiest evening dress corsages that has appeared for some lime, is composed of ribbons and blonde lace: it forms the shape in a most advantageous manner, and can be worn with dresses of different materials. Short sleeves are invariably of the single bouffant shape, and generally trimmed with full knots of ribbons. Long sleeves are of blonde lace, or sometimes of white gauze embroidered in colours to correspond with the dress. Trimmings are expected to be very much worn, particularly embroidery in coloured silks, 'and in chenille. Ribbon trimmings will also be very generally adopted. The most fashionable ccinturcs are of satin figured in velvet; the pattern is usually a wreath; the velvet is of the eame colour a.< the satin, but always of a darker shade. Head-dresses in Evening Dress.—Crape hats trimmed with a bouquet of anemonies, or of chrysanthemums, or a single moss rose, or a bouquet of marabous, will be very generally adopted. Blonde lace, arranged somewhat in the cap style, but so as to partially display the hair, will also be in favor; there is something at once original and very graceful in this style of coiffure. It is supposed, however, that head-dresses of hair will be most prominent, and we have reason to believe that they will exhibit more variety than they have done for many years past; but nothing" can be certainly known upon the subject until next month. The colours that will be most in favour are sea-green, apple-green, dahlia, bleu Hatty, Esterhazy, darel-colour, and various shades ot brown and rose-colour.
of the same material, knots of ribbon, and a single ostrich feather. The morning cap worn under it is of• blond net, as is also the ml!' round the throat. The sitting figure gives a back view of the dress just described, but without the embroidery.
Mantles are still more generally adopted in Walking Dress than they were last month. We have seen a few fancy ones composed of Merinos, with shewy borders, printed rouml the bottom and up the fronts of the Mantles, and round the Cape. They ore not very generally worn, olid
certainly they are by no means adapted to promenidc dres*. Those of groi de Ifapta, with a plush border of the same colour as the dress, but shaded in a diamond pattern, a little darker, are much more lady like.
Sat in and velvet of dark colours are fashionable for Bonnets; the latter material is particularly so. We 3ee also some of a verv rich plain Silk; it is known here by the name of Rrps; in France it is called pros tic /mini. The shape of Walking Bonnets is a little altered, the brims are not so close, aim are all made round. The crowns are still made low; they begin to be more trimmed. A pretty and novel style of trimming consists of a full cluster of bows placed in front of the crown; those in the centre are larger than those at the sides; they are attached near the top; a twisted band of ribbon descends from this knot, traverses the crown in a slanting direction, and meets at the back under a small bow, with a cluster of short ends in the centre. We should observe- that a short full curtain, cut bias, is always attached to the back of the crown. We also see a good many bonnets trimmed with two or three short ostrich feathers, the colour of the bonnet; where this is the case they are inserted in a band of ribbon, which forms a point in the front of the crown, and descending obliquely, ends in a bow at the bottom, a little on one side; a knot, consisting of two short bows, with ends, which fall upon the brim, is attached to the bottom of the feathers. The only ornament for the inside uf the brims of Walking Bonnets is a quilling of blond net, which, instead of descending from the sides of the face only, as has been latterly the case, now encircles it. and either descends like a mob cap under the chin, or ties like a round one with a ribbon. Black 1 .ace Veils are very fashionable, more so indeed than they have been for some seasons past.
A great variety of shewy Mantl.-s I ave been introduced for carriage dress and evening panic's. The most elegant are those of grot de Naples, with plain grounds, as green, lavender, &c. &c., and broad rich painted borders. These are very fashionable for evening parties and for the Opera. Those of fine cachmere, striped and figured in a great variety of patterns, are now worn in morning drees. Some of these last have a second pelerine of the heart form, composed of velvet, which has a very rich effect.
Hats and Bonnets in carriage dress are composed of velvet, of satin lined, and partly trimmed with velvet—teny velvet, called by the French velourt ipingli, and of fancy silks and satins. Hata are most in request; they are betveen the bat and bonnet shape, neither so close as the one, nor so wide as the other. Some are trimmed inside the brim with gauze ribbons to correspond, folded across the front, and puffed at the sides; others with ribbon, edged with narrow blond lace: the crowns are decorated with flowers or feathers. The former are most fashionable. Those of spring or the early part of summer are preferred.
Shawl dresses are verv fashionable for evening parties, particularly those with , 1.11 "k green or crimson grounds, and a rich palm or flowered border round the skirt. The wearer is a lady of certain age, or the party is in genteel, but not high life. The dress is made half high, with a velvet lappel of the pelerine kind falling over, aud long sleeves, with velvet cuHs, or else long sleeves of white crlpe Hue (we give the French name, because it is known by no other), and a small velvet half sleeve. For grand parties the bodv of the dress should be cut very low, and draped across the front so as to display a white satin under body, trimmed with blond lace; the sleeves should be short, of white satin, and nearly covered with two or three falls of blond lace. Satin dresses are also very much worn by Matronly Indies. They are made in the same style, except that there is no trimming to the bottom. A variety of figured silks, which aie all known here under the name of figured grot de Naples, are fashionable both for young and Matronly Ladies; fur the former the body should be made low. A good many have a falling tucker of blond lace. Others are trimmed with it 'round the back and shoulders only. Short sleeves are beginning to be more generally worn by young Ladies, but long ones of white gauze are equally fashionable.
Head-dresses of hair are the only ones adopted by young ladies in evening dress. They are of different sorts. Some ladies have the hair parted on the forehead, and twisted up in a bow knot behind. This is called the Grecian style; it can only become a face with regularly beautiful features. Tin- half Grecian style is that in which the hair is curled on the forehead, but arranged as ubove described behind. The most generally becoming, and also most generally style is, the hair in curls or ringlets on the forehead, and in one or two bows on the crown of the head. Knots of ribbon or sprigs of flowers are employed to ornament these head dresses.
Velvet or white satin h:its with very open brims trimmed with blond lace, ribbons, and flowers are fashionable for married ladies; some hats are trimmed with feathers, but these last are not so numerous. Blond lace caps are still more fashionable, particularly those trimmed in the manner we are about to describe. The lace is turned back in the usual way, and a single rose is placed oil one side; a light wreath of foliage issues from the rose, encircles the forehead and turns partially back upon the summit of the bead round the caul, in the style of a crown. There is no ribbon employed for these caps' as the lappets are of blond lace; they are rounded at the corners and hang loose.
To the list of fashionable colours which we announced in our Number of the I7lh November, we must add dahlia, violet, and different shades of fawn colour, aud grey.
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