Hi all,
I started a new blog. The reasons are that there are times I'd like to share something, like a recipe, a picture, whatever and this blog isn't the place for something like that. So, in this blog, I'll be sharing tidbits from my life, writing, hobbies, family etc.
Here's a link http://lynncoleman.blogspot.com if you would like to check it out and follow.
Thanks for your support.
In His grip,
Lynn
The 19th century was full of innovation, exploration and is one of the most popular eras for writing historical fiction. This blog is dedicated to tiny tidbits of information that will help make your novel seem more real to the time period.
Monday, November 10, 2014
American Slang starting with the letter K
These are always fun tidbits to see words that were considered slang and commonly used. It's fun to see how many are still used today and how some have entirely different meanings today. Enjoy!
Kanaka, a native of the Sandwich Islands.
Keel over, to capsize or upset .
Keep, food.
Keep it up, to prolong a spree.
Keeps, "to play for," said by boys in playing marbles where
the winner keeps the winnings. Applied also to anything
meant in earnest.
Kelter, money. Probably from the German gelt.
Ken (Gip.), a house. Boozing or Lushing-ken, a tavern or drinking-house. Probably from the Persian khan, a house or inn.
Ken (Scotch), to know.
Kenspeckle (Scotch), easily known because marked or branded.
Ketch, Jack> the English hangman. According to Macaulay a person of that name officiated as public executioner temp Charles II. See Jack Ketch, ante.
Kettle offish (Eng.), trouble of any kind. "Here's apretty
kettle of fish" is said of a muddle or mess.
Key of the street (Eng.), an imaginary instrument said to be possessed by one locked out of doors.
Keystone State (Am.), Pennsylvania.
Kibosh, nonsense, stuff, humbug, palaver.
To put the kibosh on one is to deceive him. Another meaning is to put a stop to anything.
Kick (Am.), to object or protest.
Kick, "I'll be there in a kick," I'll be there in a minute.
Kick (Eng.), sixpence. "Two and a kick" represents half a crown.
Kicked in, smitten, mashed. Kicked the bucket, dead.
kick over the traces, to be independent of control, or to spend money extravagantly.
Kicks, shoes.
Kickshaw (Eng.), a made dish. SeeIIHenry IV, v. i. Kicksies (Eng.), trousers.
Kick up, a noise or disturbance. "To kick up a row" or "kick up the dust."
Kid, a child.
Kid, to joke, chaff or hoax.
Kiddily, fashionably dressed.
Kid nap, from kid, a child, and had, to steal, both originally Gipsy words and now as combined meaning to abduct or carry away a person.
Kidney, "of that kidney," of that kind.
Kid on (Eng.), to induce a person to do anything.
Kidsman (Eng.), a trainer of young thieves.
Killock (Am.), a small anchor.
Kilter, "out of" (Am.), off the level, out of sorts.
Kimbo or A-Kimbo, holding the arms in a bent position from the body and resting the hands on the hips.
Kinuner or Cummer (Scotch), an acquaintance or gossipKinchin (Gip.), a child.
Kinchin cove (Gip.), one who robs children.
Kinchin lay (Gip.), robbing children on the streets. "Noah Claypole" in Oliver Twist was a proficient in this art.
Kindlings (Am.), broken wood used for lighting fires.
Kingpin (Am.), the tallest pin atskittles or ten-pins. Used by analogy to signify the chief or superior.
King's pictures or Queen's pictures (Eng.), coin.
Kink, a knot or twist.
Kinky, curly, like a negroes hair.
Kirk (Scotch), a church.
Kiss, at billiards, when two balls strike each other in the course of their movement on the table, the stroke not being intended by the player.
Kiss-curl or Bowcatcher, a small curl twisted on the forehead.
Kisser (P. R.), the mouth.
Kissing-crust (Eng.), the soft crust which marks where one
loaf has touched another in the oven. Kiss-me-quick, a short veil; a bonnet not now in fashion. Kit, baggage or personal belongings. Also a "kit" of tools.
Kite-flying, raising money on accommodation bills. See Flying Kites, ante.
Kittle (Scotch), fickle, uncertain.
Kitty, in the game of draw-poker, each player raking in a pot with two pairs or better, or winning a jack-pot, puts a "chip" into a hole in the table for the good of the house.
Knacker, an old and decrepit horse. Also the man who slaughters such.
Knap (Eng.), to steal. No doubt from Nab, (y. v.)
Knap, to receive or take.
Knee-high, of diminutive stature. "Knee-high to a grasshopper."
Knickerbocker (Am.), a descendant of one of the old Dutch families of New York.
Knife (Am.), to knife a person, is to do him harm, to stab him in character if not in person. Knife-board, the long seat on top of a London omnibus.
Knobstick (Eng.), a non-union workman. See Rat Knock-down, strong ale.
Knock-down (Am.), to embezzle.
Knocked-up (Eng.), tired, played out. Knocker, "up to the," swell, in the height of fashion. Knocked into a cocked hat,
knocked out of shape.
Knock off, to quit work.
Knock-out, in racing parlance, to drive a horse out of the betting list. A bankrupt is said to be "knocked-out."
Knock out (Am.), an arrangement by brokers at auction sales to refrain from competition. Anyone of the gang acquires the coveted lots and at a subsequent sale confined to the members of the knock-out each man has the right to bid for the articles he wants. The proceeds are then divided among the confederates.
Knock-out, a fight in which one of the combatants is rendered senseless or is so badly damaged as to be unable to respond to the call of time.
Knock under (Old), to submit.
Knowing, sharp, shrewd, fly, sometimes dishonest.
Knowledge-box (Eng.), the head.
Know-nothings, the so-called American party, which from i852 to i856 cut a considerable figure in politics. They composed a secret society and got their name from always professing to know nothing when questioned as to the objects of the order.
Knuckle-dusters, iron or brass instruments worn on the hands and used as a means of offence.
Knuckle under, to yield or submit.
Koniacker (Am.), a counterfeiter.
Kosher (Heb., right, from yashar to be right), pure, according to the Jewish ordinances. Thus "Kosher meat" is meat killed and prepared by Jews after the Jewish manner, and so fit to be eaten by Jews.
Kotoo or Kotow, to bow down to, to cringe or flatter. From the Chinese ceremony where those who approach the Emperor do so on their hands and knees.
Kudos (from the Greek), honor, praise, reputation.
Ku-Klux-Klan, a secret society in the Southern States, now extinct.
Kye (Scotch), cattle.Kick (Eng.), a pocket, purse, or pocket-book.
Source: American Slang Dictionary ©1891
Kanaka, a native of the Sandwich Islands.
Keel over, to capsize or upset .
Keep, food.
Keep it up, to prolong a spree.
Keeps, "to play for," said by boys in playing marbles where
the winner keeps the winnings. Applied also to anything
meant in earnest.
Kelter, money. Probably from the German gelt.
Ken (Gip.), a house. Boozing or Lushing-ken, a tavern or drinking-house. Probably from the Persian khan, a house or inn.
Ken (Scotch), to know.
Kenspeckle (Scotch), easily known because marked or branded.
Ketch, Jack> the English hangman. According to Macaulay a person of that name officiated as public executioner temp Charles II. See Jack Ketch, ante.
Kettle offish (Eng.), trouble of any kind. "Here's apretty
kettle of fish" is said of a muddle or mess.
Key of the street (Eng.), an imaginary instrument said to be possessed by one locked out of doors.
Keystone State (Am.), Pennsylvania.
Kibosh, nonsense, stuff, humbug, palaver.
To put the kibosh on one is to deceive him. Another meaning is to put a stop to anything.
Kick (Am.), to object or protest.
Kick, "I'll be there in a kick," I'll be there in a minute.
Kick (Eng.), sixpence. "Two and a kick" represents half a crown.
Kicked in, smitten, mashed. Kicked the bucket, dead.
kick over the traces, to be independent of control, or to spend money extravagantly.
Kicks, shoes.
Kickshaw (Eng.), a made dish. SeeIIHenry IV, v. i. Kicksies (Eng.), trousers.
Kick up, a noise or disturbance. "To kick up a row" or "kick up the dust."
Kid, a child.
Kid, to joke, chaff or hoax.
Kiddily, fashionably dressed.
Kid nap, from kid, a child, and had, to steal, both originally Gipsy words and now as combined meaning to abduct or carry away a person.
Kidney, "of that kidney," of that kind.
Kid on (Eng.), to induce a person to do anything.
Kidsman (Eng.), a trainer of young thieves.
Killock (Am.), a small anchor.
Kilter, "out of" (Am.), off the level, out of sorts.
Kimbo or A-Kimbo, holding the arms in a bent position from the body and resting the hands on the hips.
Kinuner or Cummer (Scotch), an acquaintance or gossipKinchin (Gip.), a child.
Kinchin cove (Gip.), one who robs children.
Kinchin lay (Gip.), robbing children on the streets. "Noah Claypole" in Oliver Twist was a proficient in this art.
Kindlings (Am.), broken wood used for lighting fires.
Kingpin (Am.), the tallest pin atskittles or ten-pins. Used by analogy to signify the chief or superior.
King's pictures or Queen's pictures (Eng.), coin.
Kink, a knot or twist.
Kinky, curly, like a negroes hair.
Kirk (Scotch), a church.
Kiss, at billiards, when two balls strike each other in the course of their movement on the table, the stroke not being intended by the player.
Kiss-curl or Bowcatcher, a small curl twisted on the forehead.
Kisser (P. R.), the mouth.
Kissing-crust (Eng.), the soft crust which marks where one
loaf has touched another in the oven. Kiss-me-quick, a short veil; a bonnet not now in fashion. Kit, baggage or personal belongings. Also a "kit" of tools.
Kite-flying, raising money on accommodation bills. See Flying Kites, ante.
Kittle (Scotch), fickle, uncertain.
Kitty, in the game of draw-poker, each player raking in a pot with two pairs or better, or winning a jack-pot, puts a "chip" into a hole in the table for the good of the house.
Knacker, an old and decrepit horse. Also the man who slaughters such.
Knap (Eng.), to steal. No doubt from Nab, (y. v.)
Knap, to receive or take.
Knee-high, of diminutive stature. "Knee-high to a grasshopper."
Knickerbocker (Am.), a descendant of one of the old Dutch families of New York.
Knife (Am.), to knife a person, is to do him harm, to stab him in character if not in person. Knife-board, the long seat on top of a London omnibus.
Knobstick (Eng.), a non-union workman. See Rat Knock-down, strong ale.
Knock-down (Am.), to embezzle.
Knocked-up (Eng.), tired, played out. Knocker, "up to the," swell, in the height of fashion. Knocked into a cocked hat,
knocked out of shape.
Knock off, to quit work.
Knock-out, in racing parlance, to drive a horse out of the betting list. A bankrupt is said to be "knocked-out."
Knock out (Am.), an arrangement by brokers at auction sales to refrain from competition. Anyone of the gang acquires the coveted lots and at a subsequent sale confined to the members of the knock-out each man has the right to bid for the articles he wants. The proceeds are then divided among the confederates.
Knock-out, a fight in which one of the combatants is rendered senseless or is so badly damaged as to be unable to respond to the call of time.
Knock under (Old), to submit.
Knowing, sharp, shrewd, fly, sometimes dishonest.
Knowledge-box (Eng.), the head.
Know-nothings, the so-called American party, which from i852 to i856 cut a considerable figure in politics. They composed a secret society and got their name from always professing to know nothing when questioned as to the objects of the order.
Knuckle-dusters, iron or brass instruments worn on the hands and used as a means of offence.
Knuckle under, to yield or submit.
Koniacker (Am.), a counterfeiter.
Kosher (Heb., right, from yashar to be right), pure, according to the Jewish ordinances. Thus "Kosher meat" is meat killed and prepared by Jews after the Jewish manner, and so fit to be eaten by Jews.
Kotoo or Kotow, to bow down to, to cringe or flatter. From the Chinese ceremony where those who approach the Emperor do so on their hands and knees.
Kudos (from the Greek), honor, praise, reputation.
Ku-Klux-Klan, a secret society in the Southern States, now extinct.
Kye (Scotch), cattle.Kick (Eng.), a pocket, purse, or pocket-book.
Source: American Slang Dictionary ©1891
Saturday, November 8, 2014
Thanksgiving Menus Part 1
AS we head into Thanksgiving I thought I'd share some of the menus I've found. The first was publishing in Good Housekeeping Magazine ©1898. Following the menu the author shares the recipes.
A ROYAL THANKSGIVING DINNER
With a Southern Flavor.
BY MARGARET ANDREWS OLDHAM.
CIVILIZED man no longer eats; he breakfasts, lunches and dines, and the degrees of refine■f m ment with which he surrounds and pei-forms ^^^ these frequent necessities, make of him an ignoramus or a scholar, a gourmand or an epicureAll the arts and sciences are brought into requisition in preparing and eating a chop. A very learned scholar once observed that there was aright and wrong way in which to eat a strawberry. Surely, then, there is well-nigh a criminal way in which to serve and eat a steak.
It has come to pass that all events, whether domestic, political or national, are celebrated chiefly by the variety and number of good things that load our tables, until it almost seems that we virtually and absolutely do live to eat, and make holidays and unusual events as excuses to eat more, and better—and yet more.
Perhaps it is well, for whatever is done with such frequency and study of details must be progressively and scientifically done, else there is no redemption from (he common-place and the vulgar. The style in which food is served and eaten is a very fair test of a nation's progress and enlightenment. It is a pity that we have not more epicures and fewer gourmands.
Next to Christmas, the occasion calling forth most skill in edibles—in the South-—is Thanksgiving, and this dinner is truly a royal feast. Here is the menu of an old Charleston, S. C, highrliver (who died of gout).
The card—now yellowed and dim—is framed, and yet hangs on the old kitchen wall, where it has hung for more than a century. There was another for Christmas, and one for XewYear's, and one for each birthday in the family—not forgetting old Silvy's. These were never deviated from, unless to enlarge the quantities to suit the extra gues-ts. This is the menu:
Turtle soup. Pencil rolls.
Roast turkey stuffed with chestnuts.
Cranberry sauce. Celery. Sweet potatoes.
Sweet pickle peaches. Crackling bread.
Sweet pickle tomatoes. Okra.
Xew pork ham. Rice. Cabbage pudding. Oyster pie.
DESSERT.
Pumpkin pie. Persimmon beer.
Thanksgiving pudding.
Wine. Coffee.
The turtle is cut up, boiled quite "to pieces," with a shaved onion, a pinch of cayenne and curry powder, and a dessertspoonful of salt. When nearly done, little round buttons of flaky pastry are dropped in, and then thickened with a little pure sweet cream.
Pencil rolls are made in the following manner: To one quart flour add two teaspoonfuls of cream of tartar and one of soda, two tablespoons butter, pinch of salt, mix with sweet milk. As soon as it can be handled, cut off pieces about the size of an egg, roll quite thin, in a long strip, about half as wide as it is long, then roll up tight—the long way. These rolls will then be the length, but about three times the size of an ordinary lead pencil. Lay closely side by side in a baking pan, and wash over with sweet milk to give them a golden glaze.
Turkey is, of course, the nucleus around which all the lesser viands cluster. If possible, this bird should be a wild one, weighing about eighteen pounds. The flesh of the wild turkey is very fine and delicious. It is dressed and hung up for a night. The dressing is the favorite portion, and much care is bestowed upon this delightful part. It is made of stale grated biscuit, hot corn-bread and chestnuts, in equal quantities. The nuts are roasted, then pounded to a powder, and mixed with the two breads. Then are added three tablespoonfuls of butter, one onion shaved fine, one dozen whole oysters, six hard boiled eggs cut fine, a pinch of cayenne, sage, celery salt, parsley, and salt to taste. These are all thoroughly mixed, with a little hot water, to a stiff dough, and every space to be found in the turkey is stuffed tightly with this, and the opening sewed up. The turkey is then placed in a pan half-filled with water, in which has been put a cupful of the dressing, some shaved onion, a few sticks of celery, salt, pepper and parsley. It should be basted every ten minutes, and frequently turned, not allowing any portion to brown before it is done all through. When it is heated through, a paste of flour and water and a little celery salt should be spread smoothly over the part uppermost; over this, a few dots of butter. As this begins to brown, the turkey should be turned, and another part treated in the same manner. At the last, let each portion become brown, and none of it will have baked dry or hard. The gravy should be thickened with brown flour and cream, and there should be plenty of it. This is the perfection of all dishes, and fit "to set before a king."
Crackling-bread is made of corn-meal, cracklings (may be bought) and meal, in equal measures, mixed together with a little water and a pinch of salt, made into oblong pones, and baked brown.
Sweet potatoes—such as the North has never seen— sweet, juicy yams, that become candied as they bake, and are taken from the oven dripping sweet.
Peaches and tomatoes may be made into sweet pickles at any time. Allow one pound of sugar and one pint of vinegar to every three pounds of fruit. Pour this over the fruit, boiling hot. This vinegar should be poured off, for three mornings, boiled, and poured back over the fruit again. A bag of all kinds of spices should be boiled and allowed to remain in this syrup. Cabbage Pudding.
Cook a firm head of cabbage half done. Chop fine. To each quart of the cabbage add four eggs well beaten, one teaspoonful of mustard, two soda crackers rolled fine, a pinch of cayenne pepper, and salt to taste. Put in a buttered pan and bake ten minutes.
Oyster Pie.
Beat four eggs light, add two cups of sweet milk, one quart stale, grated light bread, one quart oysters, salt, pepper, celery salt, three tablespoonfuls of butter. This should be of the consistency of very stiff batter. Pour into a buttered earthen dish, and bake till slightly brown.
Cranberries may be cooked whole, if carefully and slowly cooked, or strained and served as a jelly.
Rice is never properly cooked anywhere out of the South. The gluey, starchy dish that is called "boiled rice," here, would not be recognized by a rice-eater. It is carefully washed, and placed on the fire in a double, or a porcelain boiler—one pint of rice, to three pints of water, and a teaspoonful of salt. It is never stirred, When it has boiled, and begins to stiffen, simply set it up from the fire and let it alone; it will steam done. When thoroughly done each grain is perfect, and stands apart. The grains are soft, but dry and distinct. This is a very beautiful, snowy, and nutritious dish.
A new pork ham, boiled, then scored, dotted with salt and pepper and browned in the oven, is also a favorite dish on this occasion.
Okra, which has been canned, may now be boiled in salted water, and served whole with a spoonful of cream, one of butter, and a little pepper.
Persimmon beer—but "that's another story."
Wine—The best and oldest you can secure.
Pumpkin Pie.
The pumpkin should be cut, into small pieces, and stewed, in a very little water, and washed free from lumps. For each pie allow one and one-half cups, one cup of boilingmilk, one tablespoon ful of butter, one-half cup of sugar,
one-half teaspoonful of salt, one salt spoonful each of cinnamon, nutmeg and ginger. Add one egg beaten separately. Half bake the crust, then fill with ingredients and brown.
Thanksgiving Pudding.
One pint of molasses, one pint of buttermilk, one teacup of suet, or butter, one teaspoonful of soda, one-half teacup of sugar, flour to make a stiff batter, and lastly one teacup of raisins (currants, dried cherries, or any dry fruit desired). Grease pudding bag with lard, then flour well, turn, and pour in the stiff batter. Tie loosely, allowing plenty of room to swell. Drop in boiling water and let boil for about two hours.
Sance for Pudding.
One cup of sugar, two tablespoonfulsof butter, two cups of water, one tablespoonful of flour (stir in sugar). Cook till smooth and thickened. Flavor with wineglass of brandy or any flavoring desired.
Original In Good Housekeeping.
A ROYAL THANKSGIVING DINNER
With a Southern Flavor.
BY MARGARET ANDREWS OLDHAM.
CIVILIZED man no longer eats; he breakfasts, lunches and dines, and the degrees of refine■f m ment with which he surrounds and pei-forms ^^^ these frequent necessities, make of him an ignoramus or a scholar, a gourmand or an epicureAll the arts and sciences are brought into requisition in preparing and eating a chop. A very learned scholar once observed that there was aright and wrong way in which to eat a strawberry. Surely, then, there is well-nigh a criminal way in which to serve and eat a steak.
It has come to pass that all events, whether domestic, political or national, are celebrated chiefly by the variety and number of good things that load our tables, until it almost seems that we virtually and absolutely do live to eat, and make holidays and unusual events as excuses to eat more, and better—and yet more.
Perhaps it is well, for whatever is done with such frequency and study of details must be progressively and scientifically done, else there is no redemption from (he common-place and the vulgar. The style in which food is served and eaten is a very fair test of a nation's progress and enlightenment. It is a pity that we have not more epicures and fewer gourmands.
Next to Christmas, the occasion calling forth most skill in edibles—in the South-—is Thanksgiving, and this dinner is truly a royal feast. Here is the menu of an old Charleston, S. C, highrliver (who died of gout).
The card—now yellowed and dim—is framed, and yet hangs on the old kitchen wall, where it has hung for more than a century. There was another for Christmas, and one for XewYear's, and one for each birthday in the family—not forgetting old Silvy's. These were never deviated from, unless to enlarge the quantities to suit the extra gues-ts. This is the menu:
Turtle soup. Pencil rolls.
Roast turkey stuffed with chestnuts.
Cranberry sauce. Celery. Sweet potatoes.
Sweet pickle peaches. Crackling bread.
Sweet pickle tomatoes. Okra.
Xew pork ham. Rice. Cabbage pudding. Oyster pie.
DESSERT.
Pumpkin pie. Persimmon beer.
Thanksgiving pudding.
Wine. Coffee.
The turtle is cut up, boiled quite "to pieces," with a shaved onion, a pinch of cayenne and curry powder, and a dessertspoonful of salt. When nearly done, little round buttons of flaky pastry are dropped in, and then thickened with a little pure sweet cream.
Pencil rolls are made in the following manner: To one quart flour add two teaspoonfuls of cream of tartar and one of soda, two tablespoons butter, pinch of salt, mix with sweet milk. As soon as it can be handled, cut off pieces about the size of an egg, roll quite thin, in a long strip, about half as wide as it is long, then roll up tight—the long way. These rolls will then be the length, but about three times the size of an ordinary lead pencil. Lay closely side by side in a baking pan, and wash over with sweet milk to give them a golden glaze.
Turkey is, of course, the nucleus around which all the lesser viands cluster. If possible, this bird should be a wild one, weighing about eighteen pounds. The flesh of the wild turkey is very fine and delicious. It is dressed and hung up for a night. The dressing is the favorite portion, and much care is bestowed upon this delightful part. It is made of stale grated biscuit, hot corn-bread and chestnuts, in equal quantities. The nuts are roasted, then pounded to a powder, and mixed with the two breads. Then are added three tablespoonfuls of butter, one onion shaved fine, one dozen whole oysters, six hard boiled eggs cut fine, a pinch of cayenne, sage, celery salt, parsley, and salt to taste. These are all thoroughly mixed, with a little hot water, to a stiff dough, and every space to be found in the turkey is stuffed tightly with this, and the opening sewed up. The turkey is then placed in a pan half-filled with water, in which has been put a cupful of the dressing, some shaved onion, a few sticks of celery, salt, pepper and parsley. It should be basted every ten minutes, and frequently turned, not allowing any portion to brown before it is done all through. When it is heated through, a paste of flour and water and a little celery salt should be spread smoothly over the part uppermost; over this, a few dots of butter. As this begins to brown, the turkey should be turned, and another part treated in the same manner. At the last, let each portion become brown, and none of it will have baked dry or hard. The gravy should be thickened with brown flour and cream, and there should be plenty of it. This is the perfection of all dishes, and fit "to set before a king."
Crackling-bread is made of corn-meal, cracklings (may be bought) and meal, in equal measures, mixed together with a little water and a pinch of salt, made into oblong pones, and baked brown.
Sweet potatoes—such as the North has never seen— sweet, juicy yams, that become candied as they bake, and are taken from the oven dripping sweet.
Peaches and tomatoes may be made into sweet pickles at any time. Allow one pound of sugar and one pint of vinegar to every three pounds of fruit. Pour this over the fruit, boiling hot. This vinegar should be poured off, for three mornings, boiled, and poured back over the fruit again. A bag of all kinds of spices should be boiled and allowed to remain in this syrup. Cabbage Pudding.
Cook a firm head of cabbage half done. Chop fine. To each quart of the cabbage add four eggs well beaten, one teaspoonful of mustard, two soda crackers rolled fine, a pinch of cayenne pepper, and salt to taste. Put in a buttered pan and bake ten minutes.
Oyster Pie.
Beat four eggs light, add two cups of sweet milk, one quart stale, grated light bread, one quart oysters, salt, pepper, celery salt, three tablespoonfuls of butter. This should be of the consistency of very stiff batter. Pour into a buttered earthen dish, and bake till slightly brown.
Cranberries may be cooked whole, if carefully and slowly cooked, or strained and served as a jelly.
Rice is never properly cooked anywhere out of the South. The gluey, starchy dish that is called "boiled rice," here, would not be recognized by a rice-eater. It is carefully washed, and placed on the fire in a double, or a porcelain boiler—one pint of rice, to three pints of water, and a teaspoonful of salt. It is never stirred, When it has boiled, and begins to stiffen, simply set it up from the fire and let it alone; it will steam done. When thoroughly done each grain is perfect, and stands apart. The grains are soft, but dry and distinct. This is a very beautiful, snowy, and nutritious dish.
A new pork ham, boiled, then scored, dotted with salt and pepper and browned in the oven, is also a favorite dish on this occasion.
Okra, which has been canned, may now be boiled in salted water, and served whole with a spoonful of cream, one of butter, and a little pepper.
Persimmon beer—but "that's another story."
Wine—The best and oldest you can secure.
Pumpkin Pie.
The pumpkin should be cut, into small pieces, and stewed, in a very little water, and washed free from lumps. For each pie allow one and one-half cups, one cup of boilingmilk, one tablespoon ful of butter, one-half cup of sugar,
one-half teaspoonful of salt, one salt spoonful each of cinnamon, nutmeg and ginger. Add one egg beaten separately. Half bake the crust, then fill with ingredients and brown.
Thanksgiving Pudding.
One pint of molasses, one pint of buttermilk, one teacup of suet, or butter, one teaspoonful of soda, one-half teacup of sugar, flour to make a stiff batter, and lastly one teacup of raisins (currants, dried cherries, or any dry fruit desired). Grease pudding bag with lard, then flour well, turn, and pour in the stiff batter. Tie loosely, allowing plenty of room to swell. Drop in boiling water and let boil for about two hours.
Sance for Pudding.
One cup of sugar, two tablespoonfulsof butter, two cups of water, one tablespoonful of flour (stir in sugar). Cook till smooth and thickened. Flavor with wineglass of brandy or any flavoring desired.
Original In Good Housekeeping.
Friday, November 7, 2014
Boy's Toys to make Part 1
Today begins the first in a series of Boys Toys and the instructions in how to make them.
As a sample here are the illustrations and directions to make a paper boat. There is another boat, a comic paper mask, a pyramidical hat, a paper box, a fire balloon, parachute, and three kites. If you would like a pdf or word doc of these instructions email me lynn(at)lynncoleman.com and I'll be happy to send you a copy. Just let me know which kind of file you would like.
Cut a piece of white writing paper, but not of too stiff a quality, six inches by four (fig. 1);fold it to the dotted line a, making exactly one half when folded to c; then the corners b b are to meet in the centre (fig. 2);
turn down the two sides d forming the dotted lines e, take the two sides between each finger and thumb, in the left hand, and with the right pull it out until it forms fig. 3,taking care to turn over the corners at dotted line e; turn down F the two top lines to dotted line g, pull out the sides again, as before, to make fig. 4;a a being pulled out as before described, taking care not to press the inside, it will form the boat, fig. 5.
As a sample here are the illustrations and directions to make a paper boat. There is another boat, a comic paper mask, a pyramidical hat, a paper box, a fire balloon, parachute, and three kites. If you would like a pdf or word doc of these instructions email me lynn(at)lynncoleman.com and I'll be happy to send you a copy. Just let me know which kind of file you would like.
Cut a piece of white writing paper, but not of too stiff a quality, six inches by four (fig. 1);fold it to the dotted line a, making exactly one half when folded to c; then the corners b b are to meet in the centre (fig. 2);
turn down the two sides d forming the dotted lines e, take the two sides between each finger and thumb, in the left hand, and with the right pull it out until it forms fig. 3,taking care to turn over the corners at dotted line e; turn down F the two top lines to dotted line g, pull out the sides again, as before, to make fig. 4;a a being pulled out as before described, taking care not to press the inside, it will form the boat, fig. 5.Thursday, November 6, 2014
Pumpkin Pie Mid Cork Cake
Getting into the season, enjoy!
PUMPKIN-PIE MID CORK-CAKE.
THE deacon read aloud from the Home that some woman wanted my way of making corn-cake and pumpkin-pies, and he said, "Pipsey, if you can't tell her no woman can, for really, let me go where I will, I don't find any such pumpkin-pie and corn-cake as you make here at home."
The woman must make allowance for the deacon's partiality. We hope our recipes may be satisfactory.
In making pumpkin-pies women generally stew the pumpkin and rub it through a colander, but this is a troublesome, mussy way that we don't like to see, and we never practice it. Instead, we select a solid, fine-grained, sweet, yellow pumpkin and steam or bake the large pieces, and scrape it off with a heavy spoon. Scrape slowly, and a little at a time, rejecting any lumps or stringy pieces that may come off. Squash is preferable to pumpkin, and should always be used instead, if it can be obtained—but, call it pumpkin-pie—that sounds better. Then to every quart of pumpkin, take one quart of good, rich milk and one cup of sweet cream, four well-beaten eggs, two tablespoons of molasses, a teaspoon of salt, a teaspoon of ginger, and sugar to the taste. I never put in any cinnamon. Just before it is passed at the table, grate a little nutmeg over it. Let the crust be good, and high enough around the edge of the pie-pan that the contents will not run over. A great deal depends on the baking. Do not put the mixture into the crust until the moment you put the pie into the oven; and then if the fire is too hot the |iif will not be cooked, and if not hot enough, it will be soggy.
One must be watchful and careful. For any kind of baking—bread, cake, biscuit or pie—the fire should have been a hot one and beginning to go down before anything goes into the oven. When a pumpkin or custard-pie is well baked and done enough, it will have puffed up beautifully—risen up from the edges quite like a loaf. WIien token out of the oven it should not remain on the pan a minute, else it will grow moist . If the pan has been dusted properly with flour, the pic can be slipped off easily on to a bread-cloth or folded paper. We rarely eat pie away from home because we have whims on the subject that we respect. So many women bake pies on old plates, old greasy, infirm plates that have seen faithful service—greased anew every time they were used, and too often the pies were left on them to cool, and the lower crust is soggy and strong, and not fit to enter one's stomach. And so many women, in baking lemon, pumpkin, corn^starch and custard-pies, put a plaster of beaten egg on top which is intended to be very pretty, but imparts an eggy taste that is not proper nor good.
To tell when a pumpkin-pie is baked done, shake the pan a little, and if it is firm in the centre, as it is at the edges, it is cooked. If the milk is new and creamy, and the materials good of which pumpkin or custard-pies are made, one fresh egg is enough to allow to each pie.
In the season of squashes we fare well at oor house for pumpkin-pie. We always steam sqisash for dinner, and if any pieces are left we make a bowl of custard, and thicken it sufficiently with some of the nicely prepared squash, and only a few minutes time is taken up with the job.
In looking over this, we would make one correo tion. In case the pumpkin or squash is cooked down until it is quite dry— not much moisture remaining in it—stirred into one quart and one cupful of milk, might make the mixture a little too thick for a good pie—in this case the woman must adopt Mudlaw's rule, and guess at it. She must use her own judgment just as she will be obliged to in determining by the taste of the ingredients how much sugar is required. If the mixture - too thick, the pies will be too dry. A woman must use judgment in this case, the same as she uses tact in her friendly intercourse with her acquaintances, and in the bringing up of her family, the clever managing of her husband, etc.
We have tried to make this plain and simple enough for a little girl.
To make corn-cake, take one pint of soar milk, and dissolved eoda enough to sweeten it, one egg, a level teaspoonful of salt, one handful of wheat flour, and meal enough to make a thin batter. Beat well. Into a sheet-iron bread-pan put » lump of butter the size of a hulled walnut, and when melted and stirred all over the pan, pour'in the batter and work the melted butter into it with a spoon, by turning the edges in and in, until it is thoroughly incorporated. Place in a hot oveji that will begin to bake immediately, and the larg«, thin cake, the size of the pan, will be deliciousljr done in about fifteen minutes. It will be crisp, and tender, and excellent for any meal you choose, especially for breakfast on a winter morning. Cist it out in square checks like ginger-bread. Now, if vou want it extra nice, let a part of the sour milk be taken out of the bottom of the cream crock; if so, use less soda and less butter. If the sour milk be poor or watered, then take two egge instead of one to make up for the lack. In case you have a churning that will not "come," do not fret about it or get mad and give it to the pigs, but stand the cream away in a fresh jar in a cool place, and use it in half a dozen ways that will"pay" better than if it had turned off a roll of second-rate butter. You can use it in making corn-cake, jumbles, doughnuts, meal-puddings, tarts, graham gems, griddle-cakes of rye, wheat, graham or corn-meal; for tea-cakes, soda-biscuit* or pan-cakes. The boys in our family used to hail the day that the "butter didn't come."
In all these things in which sour cream can be used to excellent advantage, allowance must be made for the difference between it and plain sour milk, and less eggs used, and no butter at all in the jumbles and doughnuts, and only a trifle in the tea-cakes and soda-biscuit. It is a good plan in making cake, for instance, to note down the exact quantities of the ingredients used until the result is perfectly satisfactory, then yon have a recipe of your own that can be relied upon.
We have in our up-stairs fruit-closet five or six
pound boxes of flour made out of dried pumpkin. This flour is a decided advantage over the common iray of cooking pumpkin or squash whenever it is Deeded for pies. By using the pumpkin-flour a pie can be made as soon as the milk, sugar, eggs and ginger are put together. We first heard of it n Marion Harland's admirable cook-books.
To the young housekeeper whose lament was that she could not make good coffee, if she "tried never so hard," we send our own way, and the good old deacon often says, "seems to me your L' iffee gets better and better!"
A heaping tablespoonful of ground coffee for each person and "one for the pot," is the usual allowance. Take part of an egg and a little cold water, and thoroughly moisten it . In the meanwhile let the pot be scalding with fresh, boiling water in it . See that it is clean and free from all old grounds, then pour in on the coffee half the quantity of boiling water needed, allowing about a half a pint less water than there are tablespoons of coffee. Make a compact little roll out of a strip of stout paper and stick it in the nose of the pot that the fine aroma may not be wasted. Boil for five or eight minutes, then slip a knife round inside of the pot to free it from grounds, and place it back where it will merely simmer, for ten minutes. Then pour in the balance of the boiling water; when settled, pour out half a cupful and return it, with three or four spoonfuls of cold water, and your nice, fragrant coffee is made. Use good cream and the finest of sugar, and you will then know how to make good coffee that will do you good to drink, and you will be pleased to •!:••.- it to your husband, family and friends.
Pipsey Potts.
PUMPKIN-PIES.
I AM not "Pipsey" nor "Chatty," but my brother's wife says no one can make any better pumpkin-pies or brown-bread than I do—does the "corn-bread" mean what we call brown-bread or johnney-cake?
PtncpxiN-PlE.—One quart stewed pumpkin, one quart and a half sweet milk, one teacup of flour, sifted with the pumpkin through a colander. Heat the milk and pumpkin together over steam. Season with one tablespoonful ginger, one tablejpoonful cassia, half tablespoonful salt, heaping Buioerfal sugar, half teacup molasses; after the pumpkin, and milk, and spices, etc.. are thoroughly scalded together,add four eggs well beaten. Fill your crust and bake until the pumpkin boils or bubbles.
Brown-bread.—One cup and a half sour milk, two-thirds cup molasses, two-thirds cup rye meal, one cup and a half Indian-meal, one teaspoouful soda, half teaspoonful salt. Steam in a covered dish two hours and a half or bake in a covered dish two hours and a half in a moderate oven. If you don't like it as sweet as this makes it, put what molasses you want into a cup and then put in water until the cup is two-thuds full.
Indian-cake.—One pint of corn-meal, one pint of flour, two eggs, one cup white sugar, three tablespoonfuls cream, two tablespoonful creamtartar, one teaspoonful soda, two cups sweet milk. Bake in hot oven.
I would send this direct to E. F. G. if I knew her address. P. M. 8.
Source: Arthur's Home Magazine ©1881
PUMPKIN-PIE MID CORK-CAKE.
THE deacon read aloud from the Home that some woman wanted my way of making corn-cake and pumpkin-pies, and he said, "Pipsey, if you can't tell her no woman can, for really, let me go where I will, I don't find any such pumpkin-pie and corn-cake as you make here at home."
The woman must make allowance for the deacon's partiality. We hope our recipes may be satisfactory.
In making pumpkin-pies women generally stew the pumpkin and rub it through a colander, but this is a troublesome, mussy way that we don't like to see, and we never practice it. Instead, we select a solid, fine-grained, sweet, yellow pumpkin and steam or bake the large pieces, and scrape it off with a heavy spoon. Scrape slowly, and a little at a time, rejecting any lumps or stringy pieces that may come off. Squash is preferable to pumpkin, and should always be used instead, if it can be obtained—but, call it pumpkin-pie—that sounds better. Then to every quart of pumpkin, take one quart of good, rich milk and one cup of sweet cream, four well-beaten eggs, two tablespoons of molasses, a teaspoon of salt, a teaspoon of ginger, and sugar to the taste. I never put in any cinnamon. Just before it is passed at the table, grate a little nutmeg over it. Let the crust be good, and high enough around the edge of the pie-pan that the contents will not run over. A great deal depends on the baking. Do not put the mixture into the crust until the moment you put the pie into the oven; and then if the fire is too hot the |iif will not be cooked, and if not hot enough, it will be soggy.
One must be watchful and careful. For any kind of baking—bread, cake, biscuit or pie—the fire should have been a hot one and beginning to go down before anything goes into the oven. When a pumpkin or custard-pie is well baked and done enough, it will have puffed up beautifully—risen up from the edges quite like a loaf. WIien token out of the oven it should not remain on the pan a minute, else it will grow moist . If the pan has been dusted properly with flour, the pic can be slipped off easily on to a bread-cloth or folded paper. We rarely eat pie away from home because we have whims on the subject that we respect. So many women bake pies on old plates, old greasy, infirm plates that have seen faithful service—greased anew every time they were used, and too often the pies were left on them to cool, and the lower crust is soggy and strong, and not fit to enter one's stomach. And so many women, in baking lemon, pumpkin, corn^starch and custard-pies, put a plaster of beaten egg on top which is intended to be very pretty, but imparts an eggy taste that is not proper nor good.
To tell when a pumpkin-pie is baked done, shake the pan a little, and if it is firm in the centre, as it is at the edges, it is cooked. If the milk is new and creamy, and the materials good of which pumpkin or custard-pies are made, one fresh egg is enough to allow to each pie.
In the season of squashes we fare well at oor house for pumpkin-pie. We always steam sqisash for dinner, and if any pieces are left we make a bowl of custard, and thicken it sufficiently with some of the nicely prepared squash, and only a few minutes time is taken up with the job.
In looking over this, we would make one correo tion. In case the pumpkin or squash is cooked down until it is quite dry— not much moisture remaining in it—stirred into one quart and one cupful of milk, might make the mixture a little too thick for a good pie—in this case the woman must adopt Mudlaw's rule, and guess at it. She must use her own judgment just as she will be obliged to in determining by the taste of the ingredients how much sugar is required. If the mixture - too thick, the pies will be too dry. A woman must use judgment in this case, the same as she uses tact in her friendly intercourse with her acquaintances, and in the bringing up of her family, the clever managing of her husband, etc.
We have tried to make this plain and simple enough for a little girl.
To make corn-cake, take one pint of soar milk, and dissolved eoda enough to sweeten it, one egg, a level teaspoonful of salt, one handful of wheat flour, and meal enough to make a thin batter. Beat well. Into a sheet-iron bread-pan put » lump of butter the size of a hulled walnut, and when melted and stirred all over the pan, pour'in the batter and work the melted butter into it with a spoon, by turning the edges in and in, until it is thoroughly incorporated. Place in a hot oveji that will begin to bake immediately, and the larg«, thin cake, the size of the pan, will be deliciousljr done in about fifteen minutes. It will be crisp, and tender, and excellent for any meal you choose, especially for breakfast on a winter morning. Cist it out in square checks like ginger-bread. Now, if vou want it extra nice, let a part of the sour milk be taken out of the bottom of the cream crock; if so, use less soda and less butter. If the sour milk be poor or watered, then take two egge instead of one to make up for the lack. In case you have a churning that will not "come," do not fret about it or get mad and give it to the pigs, but stand the cream away in a fresh jar in a cool place, and use it in half a dozen ways that will"pay" better than if it had turned off a roll of second-rate butter. You can use it in making corn-cake, jumbles, doughnuts, meal-puddings, tarts, graham gems, griddle-cakes of rye, wheat, graham or corn-meal; for tea-cakes, soda-biscuit* or pan-cakes. The boys in our family used to hail the day that the "butter didn't come."
In all these things in which sour cream can be used to excellent advantage, allowance must be made for the difference between it and plain sour milk, and less eggs used, and no butter at all in the jumbles and doughnuts, and only a trifle in the tea-cakes and soda-biscuit. It is a good plan in making cake, for instance, to note down the exact quantities of the ingredients used until the result is perfectly satisfactory, then yon have a recipe of your own that can be relied upon.
We have in our up-stairs fruit-closet five or six
pound boxes of flour made out of dried pumpkin. This flour is a decided advantage over the common iray of cooking pumpkin or squash whenever it is Deeded for pies. By using the pumpkin-flour a pie can be made as soon as the milk, sugar, eggs and ginger are put together. We first heard of it n Marion Harland's admirable cook-books.
To the young housekeeper whose lament was that she could not make good coffee, if she "tried never so hard," we send our own way, and the good old deacon often says, "seems to me your L' iffee gets better and better!"
A heaping tablespoonful of ground coffee for each person and "one for the pot," is the usual allowance. Take part of an egg and a little cold water, and thoroughly moisten it . In the meanwhile let the pot be scalding with fresh, boiling water in it . See that it is clean and free from all old grounds, then pour in on the coffee half the quantity of boiling water needed, allowing about a half a pint less water than there are tablespoons of coffee. Make a compact little roll out of a strip of stout paper and stick it in the nose of the pot that the fine aroma may not be wasted. Boil for five or eight minutes, then slip a knife round inside of the pot to free it from grounds, and place it back where it will merely simmer, for ten minutes. Then pour in the balance of the boiling water; when settled, pour out half a cupful and return it, with three or four spoonfuls of cold water, and your nice, fragrant coffee is made. Use good cream and the finest of sugar, and you will then know how to make good coffee that will do you good to drink, and you will be pleased to •!:••.- it to your husband, family and friends.
Pipsey Potts.
PUMPKIN-PIES.
I AM not "Pipsey" nor "Chatty," but my brother's wife says no one can make any better pumpkin-pies or brown-bread than I do—does the "corn-bread" mean what we call brown-bread or johnney-cake?
PtncpxiN-PlE.—One quart stewed pumpkin, one quart and a half sweet milk, one teacup of flour, sifted with the pumpkin through a colander. Heat the milk and pumpkin together over steam. Season with one tablespoonful ginger, one tablejpoonful cassia, half tablespoonful salt, heaping Buioerfal sugar, half teacup molasses; after the pumpkin, and milk, and spices, etc.. are thoroughly scalded together,add four eggs well beaten. Fill your crust and bake until the pumpkin boils or bubbles.
Brown-bread.—One cup and a half sour milk, two-thirds cup molasses, two-thirds cup rye meal, one cup and a half Indian-meal, one teaspoouful soda, half teaspoonful salt. Steam in a covered dish two hours and a half or bake in a covered dish two hours and a half in a moderate oven. If you don't like it as sweet as this makes it, put what molasses you want into a cup and then put in water until the cup is two-thuds full.
Indian-cake.—One pint of corn-meal, one pint of flour, two eggs, one cup white sugar, three tablespoonfuls cream, two tablespoonful creamtartar, one teaspoonful soda, two cups sweet milk. Bake in hot oven.
I would send this direct to E. F. G. if I knew her address. P. M. 8.
Source: Arthur's Home Magazine ©1881
Wednesday, November 5, 2014
1875 Undergarments
These are just tidbits on Undergarments and discussions about them from 1875.
“ Dress Reform: a Series of Lectures Delivered in Boston on Dress asit Afl'ecta the Health of Woman.” Edited by Abba Goold Woolson. With illustrations. Boston : Roberts Brothers.
The lectures which are reprinted here were widely published in the journals at the time of their delivery. Criticism of women's dress by lecturers is no new thing, but this movement of last year made a decided advance upon its predecessors, in that it did result not merely in definite recommendations, but also in some provision for carrying them out. A new garment was invented, and a manufactory for producing it for the market was started. No doubt the striking costumes and figures so often seen on our streets are proof that the mode of woman's dress has not yet been Very generally afl'ected, but on the other hand we believe the Chemiloon Factory (or should we say Institution?) in Boston is really well patronized. The theory upon which this gnnnent is constructed is that the skirts should be hung from the shoulder instmd of bound about tl'n waist, and that the pressure upon the shoulder should not bein narrow hands as with suspenders, but should be distributed over the whole width of the shoulders. An under garment, in the form of a loose waist, is accordingly made, which at its lower part carries buttons by which the skirts are suspended. Suspenders are recommended as superior to fastening around the waist, but the commendation of the dress reformers to replace the chemise with a garment composed of waist and drawers in one, which carries rows of buttons at the waist for the underskirt, and the balmoral, stockings, and other garments. Particular directions are given for the cutting of skirts so as to avoid the usual multiplication of bands about the waist. Whether all of the recommendations made by the reformers will be adopted is perhaps doubtful; but those which relate to undergarments and do not alter the outerappearance will probably have the best success, in the beginning at least; andas we have mid, there is already one establishment for the sale of chemiloons which is in operation and well patronized. In addition to the lectures, the book hasa chapter giving directions tor the making of all the garments recommended. It is embellished with illustrations of several ot'them, and there is also a t'rontispiece in which a Grecian statue, a portrait (of Lady Washington 7), and a modern belle are all grouped, and we have never seen a picture of this kind in which either the Grecian or the girl of the period appeared to lam advantage.
Source: The Galaxy ©1875
This came from The Public Ledger Memphis Tenn June 6, 1875 It's a great image of what male drawers looked like with their buttons and such. Note the strings at the hem of each pant leg.
This last tidbit was published in 1873 a couple years before 1875, however, I believe it is good insight into how many undergarments, how to care for them, when to make them, etc.
For the Southern Cultivator.
THE ART OF DRESSING.
Much vexation attending the art of dressing would be avoided by consistency with the circumstances of each individual.
Circumstances of time and place, age, complexion, and form. Circumstances, also, of health and comfort, occupation or leisure; but especially must dress be modified universally to the depth of the individual's pocket. "Beauty is a duty," but not so pressing an one as honesty of character. In the excited chase after ever-changing fashion, the poor go beyond their means in a vain attempt to imitate others, while the wealthy experience a continual annoyance in seeing their rich attire burlesqued by ridiculous imitations.
Truo gentility of appearance always legin3
with personal cleanliness, which means a daily bath, with attention to the teeth, hair, and nails Genuine neatness next—displays itself in » white, though d/irned stocking, and a well kept shoe. Then daily dressed hair—even, thougbs plain and unpretending the arrangement, must alwa3rs precede any attempt at successful dressing.
A mistaken idea that much ornament audi fancy work on underclothing is necessary t<> gentility, leads to extravagance, and many false pretentions. A sufficient number of plain and1 neatly made undergarments is preferable kr an. insufficient supply, though they be of linen and cambric.
Some honsc-holdfe should purchase two boltsof unbleached shirting and unbleached drilling, to one of bleached, or perhaps a still larger proportion. The cost is less, it wears about twice as long, and with good washing, whitens rapidly. Undergarments- should always be made in the fall, that the newness of the cloth may give warmth to the body. Those who cannot afford linen for summer wear, will gratefully diseover that the winter's use has no more than prepared their garments for the warm season. When it is necessary to make for the whole year, sets, of six or eight will be quite adequate, but at the same time not a surplus number, to interfere with a re-furnishing by winter again.
Drawers for very small children should be of bleached drilling; but the bodies, the drawers and bodies for larger children, gentlemens drawers and night-shirts, and the undergarmentsof ladies (except shirtsj can all be made of yellow cloth. But by all means let the sowing be as carefully done as if for finer cloth; cord used,, if no other trimmings. The home-made trimmings, crotchet, Spanish work, tatting, or a linen ruffle, will be found to wear as well as yellow cloth.
It is far preferable to make night-robes of bleached cloth at all times for ladies, as they are used so often in case of sickness. A pretty idea is to trim ladie's garments in sets. Bodies for children's drawers and underskirts must be long and quite loose, to give the dress a better fit; if too short, a child will always keep the dress slipped up to the same line. Every garment worn by a child should be loose; a close fit on a child is never becoming, on. the contrary, it gives the ludicrous appearance of a stuffed frog. It is a prevailing fault to make children's, clothes too short in the waist
Just here, let it be remarked, that girls after they have learned to depend upon their own taste, should be allowed a specified amount annually, or monthly, for dressing. It exercises in them discrimination in purchasing, and encourages economy in out-fit, which they will be sure to call into use in after years. This privilege of economizing to suit themselves, will interest, as well as prove a great convenience to tbem.— No dread then of calling on father too often, or of being reprimanded or complained of, in turn by him. "PARMER'S WIFE."
Macon County, Ga., Sept., 1873.
“ Dress Reform: a Series of Lectures Delivered in Boston on Dress asit Afl'ecta the Health of Woman.” Edited by Abba Goold Woolson. With illustrations. Boston : Roberts Brothers.
The lectures which are reprinted here were widely published in the journals at the time of their delivery. Criticism of women's dress by lecturers is no new thing, but this movement of last year made a decided advance upon its predecessors, in that it did result not merely in definite recommendations, but also in some provision for carrying them out. A new garment was invented, and a manufactory for producing it for the market was started. No doubt the striking costumes and figures so often seen on our streets are proof that the mode of woman's dress has not yet been Very generally afl'ected, but on the other hand we believe the Chemiloon Factory (or should we say Institution?) in Boston is really well patronized. The theory upon which this gnnnent is constructed is that the skirts should be hung from the shoulder instmd of bound about tl'n waist, and that the pressure upon the shoulder should not bein narrow hands as with suspenders, but should be distributed over the whole width of the shoulders. An under garment, in the form of a loose waist, is accordingly made, which at its lower part carries buttons by which the skirts are suspended. Suspenders are recommended as superior to fastening around the waist, but the commendation of the dress reformers to replace the chemise with a garment composed of waist and drawers in one, which carries rows of buttons at the waist for the underskirt, and the balmoral, stockings, and other garments. Particular directions are given for the cutting of skirts so as to avoid the usual multiplication of bands about the waist. Whether all of the recommendations made by the reformers will be adopted is perhaps doubtful; but those which relate to undergarments and do not alter the outerappearance will probably have the best success, in the beginning at least; andas we have mid, there is already one establishment for the sale of chemiloons which is in operation and well patronized. In addition to the lectures, the book hasa chapter giving directions tor the making of all the garments recommended. It is embellished with illustrations of several ot'them, and there is also a t'rontispiece in which a Grecian statue, a portrait (of Lady Washington 7), and a modern belle are all grouped, and we have never seen a picture of this kind in which either the Grecian or the girl of the period appeared to lam advantage.
Source: The Galaxy ©1875
This came from The Public Ledger Memphis Tenn June 6, 1875 It's a great image of what male drawers looked like with their buttons and such. Note the strings at the hem of each pant leg.
This last tidbit was published in 1873 a couple years before 1875, however, I believe it is good insight into how many undergarments, how to care for them, when to make them, etc.
For the Southern Cultivator.
THE ART OF DRESSING.
Much vexation attending the art of dressing would be avoided by consistency with the circumstances of each individual.
Circumstances of time and place, age, complexion, and form. Circumstances, also, of health and comfort, occupation or leisure; but especially must dress be modified universally to the depth of the individual's pocket. "Beauty is a duty," but not so pressing an one as honesty of character. In the excited chase after ever-changing fashion, the poor go beyond their means in a vain attempt to imitate others, while the wealthy experience a continual annoyance in seeing their rich attire burlesqued by ridiculous imitations.
Truo gentility of appearance always legin3
with personal cleanliness, which means a daily bath, with attention to the teeth, hair, and nails Genuine neatness next—displays itself in » white, though d/irned stocking, and a well kept shoe. Then daily dressed hair—even, thougbs plain and unpretending the arrangement, must alwa3rs precede any attempt at successful dressing.
A mistaken idea that much ornament audi fancy work on underclothing is necessary t<> gentility, leads to extravagance, and many false pretentions. A sufficient number of plain and1 neatly made undergarments is preferable kr an. insufficient supply, though they be of linen and cambric.
Some honsc-holdfe should purchase two boltsof unbleached shirting and unbleached drilling, to one of bleached, or perhaps a still larger proportion. The cost is less, it wears about twice as long, and with good washing, whitens rapidly. Undergarments- should always be made in the fall, that the newness of the cloth may give warmth to the body. Those who cannot afford linen for summer wear, will gratefully diseover that the winter's use has no more than prepared their garments for the warm season. When it is necessary to make for the whole year, sets, of six or eight will be quite adequate, but at the same time not a surplus number, to interfere with a re-furnishing by winter again.
Drawers for very small children should be of bleached drilling; but the bodies, the drawers and bodies for larger children, gentlemens drawers and night-shirts, and the undergarmentsof ladies (except shirtsj can all be made of yellow cloth. But by all means let the sowing be as carefully done as if for finer cloth; cord used,, if no other trimmings. The home-made trimmings, crotchet, Spanish work, tatting, or a linen ruffle, will be found to wear as well as yellow cloth.
It is far preferable to make night-robes of bleached cloth at all times for ladies, as they are used so often in case of sickness. A pretty idea is to trim ladie's garments in sets. Bodies for children's drawers and underskirts must be long and quite loose, to give the dress a better fit; if too short, a child will always keep the dress slipped up to the same line. Every garment worn by a child should be loose; a close fit on a child is never becoming, on. the contrary, it gives the ludicrous appearance of a stuffed frog. It is a prevailing fault to make children's, clothes too short in the waist
Just here, let it be remarked, that girls after they have learned to depend upon their own taste, should be allowed a specified amount annually, or monthly, for dressing. It exercises in them discrimination in purchasing, and encourages economy in out-fit, which they will be sure to call into use in after years. This privilege of economizing to suit themselves, will interest, as well as prove a great convenience to tbem.— No dread then of calling on father too often, or of being reprimanded or complained of, in turn by him. "PARMER'S WIFE."
Macon County, Ga., Sept., 1873.
Tuesday, November 4, 2014
Double Roasting Pan
I stumbled on the double roasting pan and thought, hmm, that's different. A roasting pan with a rack inside, I've seen, even purchased one for my hope chest before I got married. But the first tidbit I'm sharing came with a picture and it does look different. I did search google images for a photograph of one but couldn't find any. However, I do believe that my character in my latest novel The Innkeeper's Wife would have used one.
Double Roasting Pan —
One of the requisites to the success of a kitchener is a double roasting pan. When meat is put in a common pan in a hot roaster, the heat more or less dries up and burns the fat and gravy upon the pan, and so creates a very objectionable odour, which settles upon the meat, making it taste, as is familiarly said, "oveny." The true remedy is the provision of a double roasting pan. It consists of one pan within another, so as to leave a space between them sufficient to hold from one to three quarts of water, according to size. The corner of the inner pan is cut off, to allow of the water being poured in. The space allowed for the water being nearly filled, the fat and gravy that drops upon the inner pan will not dry up or burn, consequently the objectionable odour does not arise; the meat is therefore as sweet as when cooked before the fire, and the gravy and dripping, not being liable to receive the ashes and cinders inseparable from an open fire, is of the best possible quality, the dripping being distinguished by a degree of purity and whiteness unattainable by any other process.
Source: The Thrift Book ©1882
Here's a recipe that mentions using a double roasting pan
BARBECUED LAMB.
Take 1 forequarter of spring lamb, broil till light brown color; lay in a double roasting pan, or dripping pan with another covering it closely as may be made to fit. Have a mixture of vinegar, salt, pepper and butter, add boiling water and baste the lamb as often as required to keep from being dry. Roast till well cooked. Mrs. Rufus Waples.
Another comment about using the double roasting pan
There has recently come into use a double-iron pan for roasting, which has a great many good qualities, and settles satisfactorily the question and use of covering meats while roasting. If used, follow very carefully the directions given with it, that the roast may be neither too flabby and steamed, nor too dried up. The old-fashioned Dutch oven is, of course, the best of all; the patent roaster, with its clockwork to make the roast revolve, is also admirable; unfortunately they are fast disappearing. The time allowed for these is slightly more than for the oven, but not more than 1 or 2 extra minutes to the pound.
Double Roasting Pan —
One of the requisites to the success of a kitchener is a double roasting pan. When meat is put in a common pan in a hot roaster, the heat more or less dries up and burns the fat and gravy upon the pan, and so creates a very objectionable odour, which settles upon the meat, making it taste, as is familiarly said, "oveny." The true remedy is the provision of a double roasting pan. It consists of one pan within another, so as to leave a space between them sufficient to hold from one to three quarts of water, according to size. The corner of the inner pan is cut off, to allow of the water being poured in. The space allowed for the water being nearly filled, the fat and gravy that drops upon the inner pan will not dry up or burn, consequently the objectionable odour does not arise; the meat is therefore as sweet as when cooked before the fire, and the gravy and dripping, not being liable to receive the ashes and cinders inseparable from an open fire, is of the best possible quality, the dripping being distinguished by a degree of purity and whiteness unattainable by any other process.
Source: The Thrift Book ©1882
Here's a recipe that mentions using a double roasting pan
BARBECUED LAMB.
Take 1 forequarter of spring lamb, broil till light brown color; lay in a double roasting pan, or dripping pan with another covering it closely as may be made to fit. Have a mixture of vinegar, salt, pepper and butter, add boiling water and baste the lamb as often as required to keep from being dry. Roast till well cooked. Mrs. Rufus Waples.
Another comment about using the double roasting pan
There has recently come into use a double-iron pan for roasting, which has a great many good qualities, and settles satisfactorily the question and use of covering meats while roasting. If used, follow very carefully the directions given with it, that the roast may be neither too flabby and steamed, nor too dried up. The old-fashioned Dutch oven is, of course, the best of all; the patent roaster, with its clockwork to make the roast revolve, is also admirable; unfortunately they are fast disappearing. The time allowed for these is slightly more than for the oven, but not more than 1 or 2 extra minutes to the pound.
Monday, November 3, 2014
Fall Vegetables
Does your hero or heroine have need to store their fall vegetables? Below are a couple excerpts from various sources regarding storing up vegetables for winter use.
VEGETABLES.
If one has a good, dry cellar, it is more economical to purchase in the fall vegetables for winter use, such as beets, carrots, turnips, parsnips, potatoes, etc., which keep better if imbedded in sand, and keep in a place just cool enough not to freeze. Squash and onions require a very cool, dry room. However, so many vegetables are now in market the year round that unless one has a place perfectly adapted to keeping vegetables and fruits, it will not pay to invest one's money, as when they are kept in too warm a place they soon spoil, and money is lost.
Carrots, beets, turnips and summer squash reach us as early as March or April from the Southland by the last of June home-grown ones appear. Cabbage is in market all the year round, so are onions, leeks, celery, lettuce, watercress, spinach, dandelions, or some kind of greens. Green peas may be found in February or March, and home-grown by the last of June; tomatoes, asparagus, cucumbers from hothouse or the South in March; asparagus, home-grown, in
April; cucumbers and tomatoes in June or July; green corn from South last of May, home-grown July.
In vegetables as in fruit, the middlesized, heavy ones are considered best. Too small are not mature, too large overgrown, and are apt not to have as fine flavor, and to contain too much woody fibre or cellulose. Good, fresh vegetables are shapely, usually smooth, and are firm to the touch, and when lifted, heavy for size. Winter vegetables should be mature before gathering, that the skin may form an impervious covering. They should always be well dried before storing. The fall price of winter vegetables depends upon the supply and demand, the winter price upon the supply, demand, and time in winter when they are purchased. The price of green vegetables usually depends upon whether in or out of season, and the size of the crop, the demand, and upon the keepingqualities.
Neither green nor winter vegetables should be purchased if they have lost their freshness or are withered. Vegetables, fruits and fish are most costly when out of season. They are said to be in season when cheapest. They may be on the market and still be out of season. They are in season in a locality at the time in the year when they have come to perfection, or have matured. The marketing outline spoken of may also be used as a reference-book to tell when either of the three were in season on previous years as well as the price at that time.
Source: The Oread ©1899
Artichoke
Storing.—At the approach of frost cut the remaining Chards; and store them in sand in a dry cellar or shed.
Jerusalem Artichoke
Storing.—Raise a portion of the crop during November, and store it in dry sand, ashes or earth, leaving the remainder to be dug up as required.
Beets
Storing.—Carefully lift the crop with a fork at the first autumn frost, taking precautions not to bruise or injure the roots; cut off the tops an inch from the crown; shorten any long fang-roots; and store in dry sand or earth in a cool shed, or in a cool, dry clamp, as advised for Carrots.
Broccoli
Storing. — In some gardens Broccoli are raised at the approach of winter, and stored closely in a cellar; but we prefer to let them finish out-of-doors.
Cabbage
Storing.—If it should be necessary to store Cabbages, place them in a barrel or box half buried in the garden, and cover them thickly with litter and dry soil.
Carrots
Storing.—Carefully raise the main crop before the advent of autumn frosts; and—after cutting off the tops, and lightly brushing away the earth—either store the roots in dry sand or soil in a cool shed or cellar, or pile them, neck outwards, in low heaps, which must be thickly covered with litter, and finally—when danger from heating has passed away—with a layer of dry earth.
Cauliflower
Storing.—As the crop soon spoils after attaining perfection, the plants should be drawn, if they mature in greater quantities than can be immediately consumed, and suspended root upwards, as they are, in a cool, dark cellar, where they may be slightly syringed daily. Late supplies can be similarly treated at the advent of frost, or they may be stored for nearly a month in sand in any dry position.
Celery
Storing.—Raise a portion of the crop, and store the roots closely together on a layer of soil in a box or barrel, through the sides of which inch-holes have been bored about 4 inches from the bottom. The roots and some soil should be left adhering to the plants, which will require an occasional watering through the holes. Blanched roots should be trimmed closely and pack ed tightly in an upright position in moss or sand in a box.
Chicory
In October commence to raise a few roots of the latter at a time with a fork; wrench off the tops; and pack the roots closely in boxes of moist soil or sand in a cool and perfectly dark cellar or shed, from wnich frosts can be excluded. Begin to break off the leaves for use about 3 weeks after storing. Water only when the plants begin to flag. The blanched foliage produces a surprising amount of delicious salading material; and—by judicious management—a continuous supply can be obtained through the winter and spring.
Onions
Giant Zittau Giant Rocco
Storing.—Draw the bulbs in dry weather; and let them lie, roots towards the sun, on the bed, gravel paths, or the floor of a sunny shed for a few days; after which they may be bunched, or topped and stored in heaps under mats in any dry, airy and cool place.
Parsnip
Storing.—Lift a few roots for immediate use in early November; but provided the soil be reasonably welldrained, the bulk of the crop should be left in the ground to be dug up as actually required, a covering of litter being afforded during severe frosts. Should, however, the land be heavy, it is well to raise the whole supply towards the end of November, and store it in sand or dry earth in a very cool cellar or shed. What remains of the crop must be raised and stored in February.
Potatoes
Stori-ng.—Lift the crops during fine weather, placing the fork well under the tubers so as not to injure them; and allow them to dry for a few hours on the surface soil. It is not advisable to wait until the shaws die down, as Potatoes ripen quite as well in a dry shed as in the ground, where they are exposed to many risks. Medium sized, handsome specimens may be put on one side for seed purposes. Store the best of the crop under a thick covering of straw in a dry shed for 3 or 4 weeks; after which, sort out the good tubers, and place them in outdoor pits and clamps in dry positions, or in heaps or tubs in a dark cellar, whence frost, light and air can be excluded. Stored tubers should so far as possible be -examined and picked over once in every few weeks.
Radishes
Storing.—Raise China Rose and Black Spanish Radishes during November or December; and store the roots in dry sand in a shed or cellar.
Shallots
Storing.—Lift the crop in dry weather on its nearly attaining maturity; and store it in any dry and well ventilated shed or cellar, to complete the process of ripening in safety. The bulbs can be kept as advised for Onions.
Turnip
Storing.—Lift a portion of the crop before winter; and—after lightly trimming the roots and cutting off the tops about J inch from the crown, store the bulbs in dry sand or earth in a cellar, or in any other position where air and frost can be excluded. Raise the remainder as required. Any plants left over until spring will produce a supply of greens.
Source: The Culture of Vegetables ©1897
VEGETABLES.
If one has a good, dry cellar, it is more economical to purchase in the fall vegetables for winter use, such as beets, carrots, turnips, parsnips, potatoes, etc., which keep better if imbedded in sand, and keep in a place just cool enough not to freeze. Squash and onions require a very cool, dry room. However, so many vegetables are now in market the year round that unless one has a place perfectly adapted to keeping vegetables and fruits, it will not pay to invest one's money, as when they are kept in too warm a place they soon spoil, and money is lost.
Carrots, beets, turnips and summer squash reach us as early as March or April from the Southland by the last of June home-grown ones appear. Cabbage is in market all the year round, so are onions, leeks, celery, lettuce, watercress, spinach, dandelions, or some kind of greens. Green peas may be found in February or March, and home-grown by the last of June; tomatoes, asparagus, cucumbers from hothouse or the South in March; asparagus, home-grown, in
April; cucumbers and tomatoes in June or July; green corn from South last of May, home-grown July.
In vegetables as in fruit, the middlesized, heavy ones are considered best. Too small are not mature, too large overgrown, and are apt not to have as fine flavor, and to contain too much woody fibre or cellulose. Good, fresh vegetables are shapely, usually smooth, and are firm to the touch, and when lifted, heavy for size. Winter vegetables should be mature before gathering, that the skin may form an impervious covering. They should always be well dried before storing. The fall price of winter vegetables depends upon the supply and demand, the winter price upon the supply, demand, and time in winter when they are purchased. The price of green vegetables usually depends upon whether in or out of season, and the size of the crop, the demand, and upon the keepingqualities.
Neither green nor winter vegetables should be purchased if they have lost their freshness or are withered. Vegetables, fruits and fish are most costly when out of season. They are said to be in season when cheapest. They may be on the market and still be out of season. They are in season in a locality at the time in the year when they have come to perfection, or have matured. The marketing outline spoken of may also be used as a reference-book to tell when either of the three were in season on previous years as well as the price at that time.
Source: The Oread ©1899
Artichoke
Storing.—At the approach of frost cut the remaining Chards; and store them in sand in a dry cellar or shed.
Jerusalem Artichoke
Storing.—Raise a portion of the crop during November, and store it in dry sand, ashes or earth, leaving the remainder to be dug up as required.
Beets
Storing.—Carefully lift the crop with a fork at the first autumn frost, taking precautions not to bruise or injure the roots; cut off the tops an inch from the crown; shorten any long fang-roots; and store in dry sand or earth in a cool shed, or in a cool, dry clamp, as advised for Carrots.
Broccoli
Storing. — In some gardens Broccoli are raised at the approach of winter, and stored closely in a cellar; but we prefer to let them finish out-of-doors.
Cabbage
Storing.—If it should be necessary to store Cabbages, place them in a barrel or box half buried in the garden, and cover them thickly with litter and dry soil.
Carrots
Storing.—Carefully raise the main crop before the advent of autumn frosts; and—after cutting off the tops, and lightly brushing away the earth—either store the roots in dry sand or soil in a cool shed or cellar, or pile them, neck outwards, in low heaps, which must be thickly covered with litter, and finally—when danger from heating has passed away—with a layer of dry earth.
Cauliflower
Storing.—As the crop soon spoils after attaining perfection, the plants should be drawn, if they mature in greater quantities than can be immediately consumed, and suspended root upwards, as they are, in a cool, dark cellar, where they may be slightly syringed daily. Late supplies can be similarly treated at the advent of frost, or they may be stored for nearly a month in sand in any dry position.
Celery
Storing.—Raise a portion of the crop, and store the roots closely together on a layer of soil in a box or barrel, through the sides of which inch-holes have been bored about 4 inches from the bottom. The roots and some soil should be left adhering to the plants, which will require an occasional watering through the holes. Blanched roots should be trimmed closely and pack ed tightly in an upright position in moss or sand in a box.
Chicory
In October commence to raise a few roots of the latter at a time with a fork; wrench off the tops; and pack the roots closely in boxes of moist soil or sand in a cool and perfectly dark cellar or shed, from wnich frosts can be excluded. Begin to break off the leaves for use about 3 weeks after storing. Water only when the plants begin to flag. The blanched foliage produces a surprising amount of delicious salading material; and—by judicious management—a continuous supply can be obtained through the winter and spring.
Onions
Giant Zittau Giant Rocco
Storing.—Draw the bulbs in dry weather; and let them lie, roots towards the sun, on the bed, gravel paths, or the floor of a sunny shed for a few days; after which they may be bunched, or topped and stored in heaps under mats in any dry, airy and cool place.
Parsnip
Storing.—Lift a few roots for immediate use in early November; but provided the soil be reasonably welldrained, the bulk of the crop should be left in the ground to be dug up as actually required, a covering of litter being afforded during severe frosts. Should, however, the land be heavy, it is well to raise the whole supply towards the end of November, and store it in sand or dry earth in a very cool cellar or shed. What remains of the crop must be raised and stored in February.
Potatoes
Stori-ng.—Lift the crops during fine weather, placing the fork well under the tubers so as not to injure them; and allow them to dry for a few hours on the surface soil. It is not advisable to wait until the shaws die down, as Potatoes ripen quite as well in a dry shed as in the ground, where they are exposed to many risks. Medium sized, handsome specimens may be put on one side for seed purposes. Store the best of the crop under a thick covering of straw in a dry shed for 3 or 4 weeks; after which, sort out the good tubers, and place them in outdoor pits and clamps in dry positions, or in heaps or tubs in a dark cellar, whence frost, light and air can be excluded. Stored tubers should so far as possible be -examined and picked over once in every few weeks.
Radishes
Storing.—Raise China Rose and Black Spanish Radishes during November or December; and store the roots in dry sand in a shed or cellar.
Shallots
Storing.—Lift the crop in dry weather on its nearly attaining maturity; and store it in any dry and well ventilated shed or cellar, to complete the process of ripening in safety. The bulbs can be kept as advised for Onions.
Turnip
Storing.—Lift a portion of the crop before winter; and—after lightly trimming the roots and cutting off the tops about J inch from the crown, store the bulbs in dry sand or earth in a cellar, or in any other position where air and frost can be excluded. Raise the remainder as required. Any plants left over until spring will produce a supply of greens.
Source: The Culture of Vegetables ©1897
Friday, October 31, 2014
St. Augustine, FL
Tomorrow is the release of my newest novel, The Innkeeper's Wife it is the second novel in my historical St. Augustine series. I had a lot of fun working with the 'marriage of convenience' scenario for this book. As with all my books, I try to do something a bit unique and in this case the reasons for the marriage of convenience are not your typical reasons that you find written about today.
While researching for this series I came across a booklet about St. Augustine that was published in 1872. In that publication were the seven images I'm posting below. These images helped me gain persecutive of the feel of St. Augustine back in that time period. They also showed me that some of these very same places haven't changed very much. In fact, they have been repaired and in much better shape than the artist's sketches.
Below the first seven are some photographs from 1875 that also gain some interesting perspective of St. Augustine at the time.
1872
The City Gate in 2007
1872
1875
Fort Marion today it is known as Castillo de San Marcos.
Today the Castillo de San Marcos
The harbor in 1875
In 2006 looking down on the river from the Fort
Another Classic Site in St. Augustine is the oldest school house. Note the chains and anchor to hold down the schoolhouse in case of a storm.
While researching for this series I came across a booklet about St. Augustine that was published in 1872. In that publication were the seven images I'm posting below. These images helped me gain persecutive of the feel of St. Augustine back in that time period. They also showed me that some of these very same places haven't changed very much. In fact, they have been repaired and in much better shape than the artist's sketches.
Below the first seven are some photographs from 1875 that also gain some interesting perspective of St. Augustine at the time.
1872
The City Gate in 2007
1872
1875
Fort Marion today it is known as Castillo de San Marcos.
Today the Castillo de San Marcos
The harbor in 1875
In 2006 looking down on the river from the Fort
Another Classic Site in St. Augustine is the oldest school house. Note the chains and anchor to hold down the schoolhouse in case of a storm.
Thursday, October 30, 2014
Occupations England, Wales & Scotland 1841-1881
Below is a list I put together from a census report by Charles Booth entitled "Occupations of the People." I'm not going to brother listing the number of folks involved during the various censuses. If you're in need of that information here is a link to the book at Google Books.©1886
For the purpose of creative thinking here's a great list to get you going.
Farmers
Agricultural Laborers & Shepherds
Nurserymen & Gardners
Drainage & Machinery Attendants
Breeding (Horse & Cattle)
Fishermen
Miners
Quarry & Brick Layers
Salt & Water Works
Management
Operative
Road Making
Machinery & Tools
Ship Building
Metal Workers
Earthenware
Fuel, Gas and Chemicals
Furs, Leather & Glue
Wood, Furniture, Carriages
Paper, Floor Cloth, Waterproof
Textiles & Dyeing
Dress
Food, Drink, & Smoking
Watches, Instruments & Toys
Printing & Bookbinding
Navigational & Docks
Railways
Roads
Raw Materials
Clothing, Materials & Dress (not sure why dress is listed twice)
Lodging & Coffee Houses
Stationary
Administration
Army, Navy
Police, Prisons
Law
Medicine
Art & Amusement
Literature & Science
Education
Religion
Domestic Care Services
Property Owning (Real Estate)
For the purpose of creative thinking here's a great list to get you going.
Farmers
Agricultural Laborers & Shepherds
Nurserymen & Gardners
Drainage & Machinery Attendants
Breeding (Horse & Cattle)
Fishermen
Miners
Quarry & Brick Layers
Salt & Water Works
Management
Operative
Road Making
Machinery & Tools
Ship Building
Metal Workers
Earthenware
Fuel, Gas and Chemicals
Furs, Leather & Glue
Wood, Furniture, Carriages
Paper, Floor Cloth, Waterproof
Textiles & Dyeing
Dress
Food, Drink, & Smoking
Watches, Instruments & Toys
Printing & Bookbinding
Navigational & Docks
Railways
Roads
Raw Materials
Clothing, Materials & Dress (not sure why dress is listed twice)
Lodging & Coffee Houses
Stationary
Administration
Army, Navy
Police, Prisons
Law
Medicine
Art & Amusement
Literature & Science
Education
Religion
Domestic Care Services
Property Owning (Real Estate)
Wednesday, October 29, 2014
1871 Fashions
Today I'm visiting 1871 fashions since my novel "The Innkeeper's Wife" which releases on Saturday, is set in 1871. The first three are everyday outfits, these are much harder to find but I've been blessed with finding several for 1871.
Girls Everyday Outfit
Everyday Outfit
Men & Boys
Woman & Man
Bridal Veils
Swimsuits or Bathing as they referred to them back then.
Dresses
Previous 1871 Fashions
1871 Fashions Part 1
1871 Fashions Part 2
Girls Everyday Outfit
Everyday Outfit
Men & Boys
Woman & Man
Bridal Veils
Swimsuits or Bathing as they referred to them back then.
Dresses
Previous 1871 Fashions
1871 Fashions Part 1
1871 Fashions Part 2
Tuesday, October 28, 2014
Railroad Approaches to Cincinnati, OH, 1875 Part three
This is the third of a three part series on the routes taken to Cincinnati via railroad.
APPROACH NO. 5.
All trains over the Pittsburg, Cincinnati, and St. Louis Railroad pass through the suburbs as follows:
Xenia—65 miles, with 8,000 inhabitants. A beautiful town. The train passes the town on the left. The Springfield Branch of the Little Miami joins the main line here, as does also the Dayton and Western Branch.
Morrow—36 miles, with 1,500 inhabitants. The train passes through the middle of the town. A very handsome place, surrounded by a beautifully picturesque country. The residence of many officials • of the Little Miami Railroad.
Loveland—Described under Approach No. 3.
Branch Hill—20 miles, with 500 inhabitants; adjoins Symmes Station on the Marietta and Cincinnati Railroad. The Little Miami River flows between the two places, and they are connected by a handsome suspension-bridge. The scenery in this vicinity is charming.
Miamiville—17 miles, with about 600 inhabitants. A purely rural village.
Camp Dennison—16 miles, with 400 inhabitants. \ A place well known as barracks and rendezvous during the war. The storehouses, hospitals, and dwellings built by the Government are now turned to business purposes.
Milford—14 miles, with 2,000 inhabitants. A handsome, lively suburb, situated on the left bank of the Little Miami River.
Gravelotte—13 miles. The whole distance between this place and Milford is dotted with handsome residences.
Plainville—9 miles, with about 200 inhabitants. Situated on the Little Miami River.
Linwood—6 miles, also the station for Mount Washington. The latter lies three miles to the east on the highlands, and boasts of many beautiful landscape views. An omnibus connects with the trains.
Columbia—4J miles. A station within the city, in the first ward, situate on the bank of the Ohio. The hills of Kentucky, with the villages of Dayton and Bellevue, on the opposite bank of the river, can be seen to the left. The train now passes through suburbs called Tusculum, Delta, and Pendleton, which form one continuous street to the depot. At the latter place, the high hills on the right mark the boundary of Eden Park. At Pendleton are situated the locomotive works, round-house, and general car-shops of the Little Miami Railroad. Just before entering the depot, the City Water Works Building is seen on the Jeft.
APPROACH NO. 6.
All trains over the Louisville, Cincinnati, and Lexington Railroad pass through the suburbs as follows:
Worthville—20 miles, with about 1,500 inhabitants. Settled in a thickly populated section of country.
South Covington—4 miles, with 1,000 inhabitants. A very beautiful suburb.
Newport—1 mile, with 26,000 inhabitants.
The train now crosses the Ohio River on an iron bridge 3,000 feet in length and 105 feet above low water level. To the left, while crossing the bridge, are seen on the Kentucky side the Newport Military Station, the mouth of the Licking River, and the palatial residence of Amos Shinkle, Esq. On the Cincinnati side a fine view of the levee or public landing, in the centre of which is seen the Union Bethel Building. Down the river a splendid view of the great Suspension Bridge. After crossing the bridge the train sweeps to the right on a curve, and goes down-grade at the rate of 105 feet to the mile, over a fine causeway or trestlework 800 feet in length. Passes the City "Water Works Building, and then backs into the depot.
The Little Miami Railroad Depot, Kilgour and Front Streets, is within 20 minutes' ride or 15 minutes' walk of the Post-office. Erected in 1851. Length, 450 feet; width, 60 feet. Has ladies' and gentlemen's waiting-rooms and dining-rooms and telegraph on second floor. Eating and news-stand stand on platiorm-floor. Sidings will accommodate 400 freight cars. Every twenty-four hours 13 passenger and 9 freight trains arrive, and the same number depart from the depot.
The Kentucky Central Depot is the terminus of the Kentucky Central Railroad. All trains over the Kentucky Central Railroad pass through the suburbs as follows:
Falmouth, Ky.—40 miles, with 1,000 inhabitants. Situated handsomely between the Licking River and its south fork.
Boston, Ky.—301 miles, with 200 inhabitants. Picturesquely situated on the west bank of the Licking River.
Butler, Ky.—28 miles, with about 300 inhabitants. A handsome village on the Licking.
Canton, Ky.—14 miles, with 100 inhabitants. A new place, pleasantly located on the Licking.
Covington, Ky.—1J miles, with 36,000 inhabitants. A line of omnibuses (fare 50 cents) and street cars (fare 10 cents) connect with the city.
The Kentucky Central Depot, Eighth and Washington Streets, is within 15 minutes' drive of the Post-office. The depot accommodations are rather limited, but there is a waiting-room, telegraph office, and lunch-counter. Every twenty-four hours 3 passenger and 2 freight trains arrive, and the same number depart from the depot. The round-house, which is a fine building, can house 30 locomotives. The siding will accommodate 500 freight cars. Offices in the second story of the depot.
Kentucky Central Depot
APPROACH NO. 5.
All trains over the Pittsburg, Cincinnati, and St. Louis Railroad pass through the suburbs as follows:
Xenia—65 miles, with 8,000 inhabitants. A beautiful town. The train passes the town on the left. The Springfield Branch of the Little Miami joins the main line here, as does also the Dayton and Western Branch.
Morrow—36 miles, with 1,500 inhabitants. The train passes through the middle of the town. A very handsome place, surrounded by a beautifully picturesque country. The residence of many officials • of the Little Miami Railroad.
Loveland—Described under Approach No. 3.
Branch Hill—20 miles, with 500 inhabitants; adjoins Symmes Station on the Marietta and Cincinnati Railroad. The Little Miami River flows between the two places, and they are connected by a handsome suspension-bridge. The scenery in this vicinity is charming.
Miamiville—17 miles, with about 600 inhabitants. A purely rural village.
Camp Dennison—16 miles, with 400 inhabitants. \ A place well known as barracks and rendezvous during the war. The storehouses, hospitals, and dwellings built by the Government are now turned to business purposes.
Milford—14 miles, with 2,000 inhabitants. A handsome, lively suburb, situated on the left bank of the Little Miami River.
Gravelotte—13 miles. The whole distance between this place and Milford is dotted with handsome residences.
Plainville—9 miles, with about 200 inhabitants. Situated on the Little Miami River.
Linwood—6 miles, also the station for Mount Washington. The latter lies three miles to the east on the highlands, and boasts of many beautiful landscape views. An omnibus connects with the trains.
Columbia—4J miles. A station within the city, in the first ward, situate on the bank of the Ohio. The hills of Kentucky, with the villages of Dayton and Bellevue, on the opposite bank of the river, can be seen to the left. The train now passes through suburbs called Tusculum, Delta, and Pendleton, which form one continuous street to the depot. At the latter place, the high hills on the right mark the boundary of Eden Park. At Pendleton are situated the locomotive works, round-house, and general car-shops of the Little Miami Railroad. Just before entering the depot, the City Water Works Building is seen on the Jeft.
APPROACH NO. 6.
All trains over the Louisville, Cincinnati, and Lexington Railroad pass through the suburbs as follows:
Worthville—20 miles, with about 1,500 inhabitants. Settled in a thickly populated section of country.
South Covington—4 miles, with 1,000 inhabitants. A very beautiful suburb.
Newport—1 mile, with 26,000 inhabitants.
The train now crosses the Ohio River on an iron bridge 3,000 feet in length and 105 feet above low water level. To the left, while crossing the bridge, are seen on the Kentucky side the Newport Military Station, the mouth of the Licking River, and the palatial residence of Amos Shinkle, Esq. On the Cincinnati side a fine view of the levee or public landing, in the centre of which is seen the Union Bethel Building. Down the river a splendid view of the great Suspension Bridge. After crossing the bridge the train sweeps to the right on a curve, and goes down-grade at the rate of 105 feet to the mile, over a fine causeway or trestlework 800 feet in length. Passes the City "Water Works Building, and then backs into the depot.
The Little Miami Railroad Depot, Kilgour and Front Streets, is within 20 minutes' ride or 15 minutes' walk of the Post-office. Erected in 1851. Length, 450 feet; width, 60 feet. Has ladies' and gentlemen's waiting-rooms and dining-rooms and telegraph on second floor. Eating and news-stand stand on platiorm-floor. Sidings will accommodate 400 freight cars. Every twenty-four hours 13 passenger and 9 freight trains arrive, and the same number depart from the depot.
The Kentucky Central Depot is the terminus of the Kentucky Central Railroad. All trains over the Kentucky Central Railroad pass through the suburbs as follows:
Falmouth, Ky.—40 miles, with 1,000 inhabitants. Situated handsomely between the Licking River and its south fork.
Boston, Ky.—301 miles, with 200 inhabitants. Picturesquely situated on the west bank of the Licking River.
Butler, Ky.—28 miles, with about 300 inhabitants. A handsome village on the Licking.
Canton, Ky.—14 miles, with 100 inhabitants. A new place, pleasantly located on the Licking.
Covington, Ky.—1J miles, with 36,000 inhabitants. A line of omnibuses (fare 50 cents) and street cars (fare 10 cents) connect with the city.
The Kentucky Central Depot, Eighth and Washington Streets, is within 15 minutes' drive of the Post-office. The depot accommodations are rather limited, but there is a waiting-room, telegraph office, and lunch-counter. Every twenty-four hours 3 passenger and 2 freight trains arrive, and the same number depart from the depot. The round-house, which is a fine building, can house 30 locomotives. The siding will accommodate 500 freight cars. Offices in the second story of the depot.
Kentucky Central Depot
Monday, October 27, 2014
Boston Trolley
Below is an order concerning the building of an electric trolley system in Boston. I found this in a Documents of the City of Boston ©1891. When I think of trolleys, the San Francisco trolley comes to mind, not because I've been to San Francisco but for the Rice-a-Roni commercials. The end of the Century electricity was coming into use in a big way and the trolleys were a great way to get around the city and they didn't need to have horses pulling the carriages about.
They were also called overhead trolleys because the electric line were wires/lines overhead of the trolleys.
Here's the blurb, note some of the names of the types of inspectors.
In Board Of Aldermen, Nov. 30, 1891.
Ordered, That consent and permission be hereby granted to the Lynn & Boston Railroad Company to establish, construct, maintain, and use the overhead single-trolley electric system of motive power, so called, in the operation of its cars in and over the following streets, ways, squares, and bridges of the city of Boston, viz.: on Chelsea bridge street and Chelsea street from the dividing line between Chelsea and Boston to a point on said Chelsea street near Vine street in the Charlestown district, where connection can be made with the electric system of the West End Street Railway Company, and to construct, lay, maintain, and use the poles, wires, and appliances, and electrical appliances and apparatus, and to make the underground and surface alterations of said bridge and Chelsea street necessary for that purpose.
Ordered, That in addition to the electric rights above given, consent and permission is further granted to said Lynn & Boston Railroad Company to establish and maintain the overhead single-trolley electric system of motive power in the operation of its cars in said city of Boston on all the tracks of the West End Street Railway Company whereon it, said Lynn & Boston Railroad Company, is now authorized to operate its cars by horse power, by using, with the consent of said West End Street Railway Company, the overhead single-trolley electric system of said last-named company heretofore authorized on and in certain streets, ways, squares, and bridges, viz.: on Chelbea street, City square, and by the following loop line to Scollay square and return, viz.: Warren avenue, Warren bridge, Beverly street, Charlestown street, Haymarket square, Sudbury street, Court street, Scollay square, Cornhill, New Washington street, Charlestown street, Causeway street, Charles-river bridge, and Charles-river avenue, to City square, with the further right, in case of fire, blockade, or other emergency requiring it, to use the tracks and said electric system of said West End Street Railway Company, with its consent, on any streets, squares, ways, and bridges between said Scollay square and City square, which said West End Street Railway Company may use between said points, and whereon such electric system is erected and in use at the time such emergency arises.
All work of construction under this order, and all kind and quality of material used, and the height of all poles erected, shall be satisfactory to the Superintendent of Streets. The poles shall lie cylindrical in shape, and painted before erected, and shall be removed when so directed by the Board of Aldermen, after sixty days' notice.
No poles shall be erected under this order until a plan showing the location of the same has first been tiled by said Lynn & Boston Railroad Company in the office of the Superintendent of Streets, and been approved by him.
Passed. Approved by the Mayor, Dec. 4, 1891.
A true copy.
This image is actually 1904 and comes from Stoughton History.com's web site. Where you can read a bit more about the Boston Trolley system.
They were also called overhead trolleys because the electric line were wires/lines overhead of the trolleys.
Here's the blurb, note some of the names of the types of inspectors.
In Board Of Aldermen, Nov. 30, 1891.
Ordered, That consent and permission be hereby granted to the Lynn & Boston Railroad Company to establish, construct, maintain, and use the overhead single-trolley electric system of motive power, so called, in the operation of its cars in and over the following streets, ways, squares, and bridges of the city of Boston, viz.: on Chelsea bridge street and Chelsea street from the dividing line between Chelsea and Boston to a point on said Chelsea street near Vine street in the Charlestown district, where connection can be made with the electric system of the West End Street Railway Company, and to construct, lay, maintain, and use the poles, wires, and appliances, and electrical appliances and apparatus, and to make the underground and surface alterations of said bridge and Chelsea street necessary for that purpose.
Ordered, That in addition to the electric rights above given, consent and permission is further granted to said Lynn & Boston Railroad Company to establish and maintain the overhead single-trolley electric system of motive power in the operation of its cars in said city of Boston on all the tracks of the West End Street Railway Company whereon it, said Lynn & Boston Railroad Company, is now authorized to operate its cars by horse power, by using, with the consent of said West End Street Railway Company, the overhead single-trolley electric system of said last-named company heretofore authorized on and in certain streets, ways, squares, and bridges, viz.: on Chelbea street, City square, and by the following loop line to Scollay square and return, viz.: Warren avenue, Warren bridge, Beverly street, Charlestown street, Haymarket square, Sudbury street, Court street, Scollay square, Cornhill, New Washington street, Charlestown street, Causeway street, Charles-river bridge, and Charles-river avenue, to City square, with the further right, in case of fire, blockade, or other emergency requiring it, to use the tracks and said electric system of said West End Street Railway Company, with its consent, on any streets, squares, ways, and bridges between said Scollay square and City square, which said West End Street Railway Company may use between said points, and whereon such electric system is erected and in use at the time such emergency arises.
All work of construction under this order, and all kind and quality of material used, and the height of all poles erected, shall be satisfactory to the Superintendent of Streets. The poles shall lie cylindrical in shape, and painted before erected, and shall be removed when so directed by the Board of Aldermen, after sixty days' notice.
No poles shall be erected under this order until a plan showing the location of the same has first been tiled by said Lynn & Boston Railroad Company in the office of the Superintendent of Streets, and been approved by him.
Passed. Approved by the Mayor, Dec. 4, 1891.
A true copy.
This image is actually 1904 and comes from Stoughton History.com's web site. Where you can read a bit more about the Boston Trolley system.
Friday, October 24, 2014
Railroad Timbers
Here are some interesting tidbits concerning wooden railroad timbers from a Report about the substitution of metal for wood in railroad ties. ©1890
The Grand Trunk Railway desires that a tree should average four ties, and says "it matters not whether they be hewn or sawn, so long as the upper and lower faces are flat and the sides uncut. Oak ties are taken when sawn on four faces, but no other kind." The ties used by the road—oak, tamarack, hemlock, and cedar—average six to seven years in duration.
The Detroit, Lansing and Northern Railroad, using oak with a life of eight and hemlock with a life of fiv^e years, finds no difference between hewn and sawed ties, " if made of similar timber."
The Kansas City, Fort Scott and Gulf Railroad, using oak with a life of eight years, says: "If made from large timber, no preference is had between ties that are sawn and those that are hewn. Large timber is deemed best."
The preference is given to sawn ties, and from large trees, by the Oregon and California Railroad, using red fir of eight years life; by the Bangor and Piscataquis Railroad, with cedar of fourteen and tamarack of seven years' duration (put iu track when half seasoned, although full seasoning is recognized as preferable); by the Mobile and Northwestern Railroad in Mississippi, "if all heart can be obtaiued and large timber, as it has less sap-wood. The small trees along the lino of road do not make as good ties as the large timber."
The Arkansas Midland Railroad prefers sawed ties, although they are more costly. "Cypress ties should only be sawed from large trees, post oak and white oak ties from small trees are equally as good as from large ones."
The Alabama Great Southern makes a point that the ties should "not be cut through the heart of the tree," the philosophy of which is, probably, that the long-leaf pine ties are liable to have the heart break out and sliver. The significant statement is also made that the oak from the south end of the road is not as durable as that from the mountains on the north end. The difference is probably due to track conditions rather than to locality of growth.
Durability or life of ties.—The life of timber in use as ties is reduced by two causes, namely, a mechanical one, the breaking of the wood fiber by the flange of the rail and by the spikes, and a chemical or physiological one, the rot or decay which is due to fungus growth.0 These causes work either in combination or, more rarely, independently. A soft wood may be easily out into and made useless before rot takes place— as, for instance, in the case of such otherwise durable woods as redwood, chestnut, etc., but the breaking of the fibre iu most cases is only the antecedent and forms part of the favorable conditions for the fungus growth—other timbers may be attacked by rot first, which, of course, is followed soon by a breaking of the fiber.
The exterior conditions6favorable to decay have been discussed at length in Bulletin l; the controllable ones consist mainly in the drainage conditions of the road-bed. Rock ballast is best drained, and hence the best record comes from such road-beds; gravel is next best and clay or loam is about the worst; on the other hand, where soft-wood ties, like chestnut, are used, the hard rock ballast, while unfavorable to decay, reduces their life by pounding and cutting. Sand ballast seems to vary considerably; a sharp, coarse silicious (not calcareous) sand with good under-drain age should be next best to gravel, while some reports give a heavy black soil and loam as better than sand. The reason why sand, although offering good drainage, is favorable to decay, may be sought in its great capacity for heat, which induces fermentation.
Iu Louisiana " ties on black loamy soil rot out in one-third the time of those laid in a clay soil. Ties exposed to the sun all day rot out in less time than those which are shaded a part of the day. Shade and a free circulation of air are requisite to the best lasting of any timber in our climate."
From fifteen years' experience on the Cumberland and Pennsylvania Railroad it is stated that ties supported in stone ballast have 20 per cent. longer life, as far as rot is concerned. The Eastern Kentucky Railroad claims that with slag ballast oak ties will last two years longer than in sand, while on the Cleveland, Columbus, Cinncinnati, and Indianapolis Railway such ties were found to last two years less in slag ballast than in gravel. The nature of the slag, it should not be forgotten, is very varying, and hence its value for ballast. The East Tennessee, Virginia and Georgia Railroad allows in rock ballast eighteen months longer life than in a soil bed, and notes in sandy soil the most rapid decay.
Experience on the Hannibal and St. Joseph Railroad ranges the various kinds of ballast as follows: stone ballast best; next,coarse gravel; next, soil, and worst, cinder and sand ballast.
The New York, New Haven and Hartford Railroad, six years ago, ballasted its road with broken stone to a depth of 14 inches; stone of not more than 2 inches in size was used, and at the rate of 4,000 cubic yards to the mile. It was expected that ties in such a road bed would last two years longer than in gravel ballast. Yet now it is found that, with the heavy traffic, the high rate of speed, and weight of engines and trains and the use of chestnut ties, these do not last more than live years, the cutting of the rail on the upper aud of the stone on the lower side wearing the ties rapidly.
Even the oak tie will succumb to the pounding it receives from such ballast, as the report of the Erie Railroad shows, which, while admitting that ties are less liable to decay in broken stone ballast, finds this ballast "on the heavily used portions of the line hard on the ties, by cutting, so that the oak ties are worn out before they rot."
Thus the life of ties of the same timber varies.considerably, not only according to climate, and character of the timber, and the treatment the ties receive before being laid, but also according to the character of the road bed aud the traffic. From the reports of the283 companies in 1883—which, bythe-by, are now so consolidated that the 85 companies reporting to this year's inquiry represent almost 50 per cent, more mileage than the former 283—the following tabulation has been made, showing the range and average duration of ties of various timbers under present usage. The aim of well-managed roads, of course, should be so to combine conditions of road-bed, inspection, and handling of ties, that the highest average duration at least should be obtained.
The long life given to honey locust in the table on page 25 is probably due to a misnomer, black locust being meant, as honey' locust is probably not a very lasting timber. The duration of mesquite, if sound, is claimed to be interminable.
The Grand Trunk Railway desires that a tree should average four ties, and says "it matters not whether they be hewn or sawn, so long as the upper and lower faces are flat and the sides uncut. Oak ties are taken when sawn on four faces, but no other kind." The ties used by the road—oak, tamarack, hemlock, and cedar—average six to seven years in duration.
The Detroit, Lansing and Northern Railroad, using oak with a life of eight and hemlock with a life of fiv^e years, finds no difference between hewn and sawed ties, " if made of similar timber."
The Kansas City, Fort Scott and Gulf Railroad, using oak with a life of eight years, says: "If made from large timber, no preference is had between ties that are sawn and those that are hewn. Large timber is deemed best."
The preference is given to sawn ties, and from large trees, by the Oregon and California Railroad, using red fir of eight years life; by the Bangor and Piscataquis Railroad, with cedar of fourteen and tamarack of seven years' duration (put iu track when half seasoned, although full seasoning is recognized as preferable); by the Mobile and Northwestern Railroad in Mississippi, "if all heart can be obtaiued and large timber, as it has less sap-wood. The small trees along the lino of road do not make as good ties as the large timber."
The Arkansas Midland Railroad prefers sawed ties, although they are more costly. "Cypress ties should only be sawed from large trees, post oak and white oak ties from small trees are equally as good as from large ones."
The Alabama Great Southern makes a point that the ties should "not be cut through the heart of the tree," the philosophy of which is, probably, that the long-leaf pine ties are liable to have the heart break out and sliver. The significant statement is also made that the oak from the south end of the road is not as durable as that from the mountains on the north end. The difference is probably due to track conditions rather than to locality of growth.
Durability or life of ties.—The life of timber in use as ties is reduced by two causes, namely, a mechanical one, the breaking of the wood fiber by the flange of the rail and by the spikes, and a chemical or physiological one, the rot or decay which is due to fungus growth.0 These causes work either in combination or, more rarely, independently. A soft wood may be easily out into and made useless before rot takes place— as, for instance, in the case of such otherwise durable woods as redwood, chestnut, etc., but the breaking of the fibre iu most cases is only the antecedent and forms part of the favorable conditions for the fungus growth—other timbers may be attacked by rot first, which, of course, is followed soon by a breaking of the fiber.
The exterior conditions6favorable to decay have been discussed at length in Bulletin l; the controllable ones consist mainly in the drainage conditions of the road-bed. Rock ballast is best drained, and hence the best record comes from such road-beds; gravel is next best and clay or loam is about the worst; on the other hand, where soft-wood ties, like chestnut, are used, the hard rock ballast, while unfavorable to decay, reduces their life by pounding and cutting. Sand ballast seems to vary considerably; a sharp, coarse silicious (not calcareous) sand with good under-drain age should be next best to gravel, while some reports give a heavy black soil and loam as better than sand. The reason why sand, although offering good drainage, is favorable to decay, may be sought in its great capacity for heat, which induces fermentation.
Iu Louisiana " ties on black loamy soil rot out in one-third the time of those laid in a clay soil. Ties exposed to the sun all day rot out in less time than those which are shaded a part of the day. Shade and a free circulation of air are requisite to the best lasting of any timber in our climate."
From fifteen years' experience on the Cumberland and Pennsylvania Railroad it is stated that ties supported in stone ballast have 20 per cent. longer life, as far as rot is concerned. The Eastern Kentucky Railroad claims that with slag ballast oak ties will last two years longer than in sand, while on the Cleveland, Columbus, Cinncinnati, and Indianapolis Railway such ties were found to last two years less in slag ballast than in gravel. The nature of the slag, it should not be forgotten, is very varying, and hence its value for ballast. The East Tennessee, Virginia and Georgia Railroad allows in rock ballast eighteen months longer life than in a soil bed, and notes in sandy soil the most rapid decay.
Experience on the Hannibal and St. Joseph Railroad ranges the various kinds of ballast as follows: stone ballast best; next,coarse gravel; next, soil, and worst, cinder and sand ballast.
The New York, New Haven and Hartford Railroad, six years ago, ballasted its road with broken stone to a depth of 14 inches; stone of not more than 2 inches in size was used, and at the rate of 4,000 cubic yards to the mile. It was expected that ties in such a road bed would last two years longer than in gravel ballast. Yet now it is found that, with the heavy traffic, the high rate of speed, and weight of engines and trains and the use of chestnut ties, these do not last more than live years, the cutting of the rail on the upper aud of the stone on the lower side wearing the ties rapidly.
Even the oak tie will succumb to the pounding it receives from such ballast, as the report of the Erie Railroad shows, which, while admitting that ties are less liable to decay in broken stone ballast, finds this ballast "on the heavily used portions of the line hard on the ties, by cutting, so that the oak ties are worn out before they rot."
Thus the life of ties of the same timber varies.considerably, not only according to climate, and character of the timber, and the treatment the ties receive before being laid, but also according to the character of the road bed aud the traffic. From the reports of the283 companies in 1883—which, bythe-by, are now so consolidated that the 85 companies reporting to this year's inquiry represent almost 50 per cent, more mileage than the former 283—the following tabulation has been made, showing the range and average duration of ties of various timbers under present usage. The aim of well-managed roads, of course, should be so to combine conditions of road-bed, inspection, and handling of ties, that the highest average duration at least should be obtained.
The long life given to honey locust in the table on page 25 is probably due to a misnomer, black locust being meant, as honey' locust is probably not a very lasting timber. The duration of mesquite, if sound, is claimed to be interminable.
Thursday, October 23, 2014
General Laws pertaining to Kentucky Schools
Below are a few of the regulations for schools in the state of Kentucky for the last decade of the 19th Century. What I find interesting in these tidbits are uniforms, state exam for graduation, grounds for suspension and that 'no teacher shall work on Saturdays.' Sunday isn't even mentioned because no one worked on Sundays back then.
1. [A Uniform System.] — lit it enacted by the General Assembly of the Commonwealth of Kentucky: There shall be maintained throughout the State of Kentucky a uniform system of common schools in accordance with the Constitution of the State and this chapter.
2. [Common School Defined.]—No school shall be deemed a "common school," within the meaning of this chapter, or be entitled to'any contribution out of the school fund unless the same has been, pursuant hereto, actually kept, or is under contract to be kept, by a qualified teacher for three months in districts having thirty-five pupils or less, for four months in districts having more than thirty-five or less than forty-five pupils, and for five or more months in districts having forty-five or more pupils, during the same school year, and at which every child residing in the district, between the ages of six and twenty years, has had the privilege of attending, whether contributing towards defraying its expenses or not: Provided, That nothing herein shall prevent any person from attending a common school who will obtain the consent of the trustees and the teachers and pay the required tuition fees. Rut after June 30, 1894, no school shall be deemed a ''common school" or be entitled to any contribution out of the school fund, unless the same has been, pursuant hereto, actually kept, or is under contract to be kept, by a qualified teacher for not less than five months during the same school year, free of expense to every pupil child, as prescribed above. In order that each child of the Common wealth may enjoy the benefits of a five months' school, the Superintendent of Public Instruction shall, for each school year after June 30, lSJ)3, apportion the fund due each county having one or more districts of less than forty-five pupil children as follows: He shall apportion to each district, without regard to school popnla ion, the per capita of forty-five pupil children, both from the fund derived from the State and interest on the county bond, if any, and prorate the remainder of the fund among the districts having more than forty-five such children: Provided, That any fractional balance shall be omitted in computing the said per capita, and that the aggregate of fractional balances shall be credited to the respective counties, and be taken into account the following year.
3. [School Year.]—The school year shall begin on the first day of July, and end on the thirtieth of June.
4. [School - Month — School - Day — Assistant Teachers.]—Twenty school days, or days in which teachers are actually employed in the school room, shall constitute a school month in the common schools of the State; but no teacher shall teach on Saturdays. Teachers shall have the benefits of only such legal holidays as they actually observe. Six hours of actual work in the school room shall constitute a school day; and under no circumstances shall the daily session, including recesses and intermissions, exceed nine hours in length. When the attendance exceeds fifty, the teacher may employ, during such attendance, an assistant, whose scholarship and competency shall be acceptable to the trustees. When the school shall require an assistant to serve regularly at a salary, such assistant shall hold a certificate of qualification and be employed by the trustees.
5. [Regulations for Schools — Penalties.]—All pupils who may be admitted to common schools shall comply with the regulations established in pursuance of law for the government of such schools. Wilful disobedience or defiance of the authority of the teachers, habitual profanity or vulgarity, or other gross violation of propriety or law, shall constitute good cause for suspension or expulsion from school.
6. [Forbidden Publications and Doctrines.]—
No books or other publications of a sectarian, infidel, or immoral character, shall be used or distributed in any common school; nor shall any sectarian, infidel or immoral doctrine be taught therein.
7. [Conditions for Graduation.]—Whenever a pupil of any common school shall have faithfully completed the prescribed course of study, shall have passed a proper examination before the County Board of Examiners on a series of questions prescribed by the State Board of Examiners, and paid to the said county board an examination fee of one dollar, he shall be entitled to a certificate of such completion and examination, signed by said county board and approved by the Superintendent of Public Instruction who shall affix thereto his official seal. The superintendent shall prepare a proper formfor said certificate. Onesuchexaminationshall be held in each county on the last Thursday in January, and another on the last Thursday in June of each year.
Source: Kentucky Common School Laws ©1896
1. [A Uniform System.] — lit it enacted by the General Assembly of the Commonwealth of Kentucky: There shall be maintained throughout the State of Kentucky a uniform system of common schools in accordance with the Constitution of the State and this chapter.
2. [Common School Defined.]—No school shall be deemed a "common school," within the meaning of this chapter, or be entitled to'any contribution out of the school fund unless the same has been, pursuant hereto, actually kept, or is under contract to be kept, by a qualified teacher for three months in districts having thirty-five pupils or less, for four months in districts having more than thirty-five or less than forty-five pupils, and for five or more months in districts having forty-five or more pupils, during the same school year, and at which every child residing in the district, between the ages of six and twenty years, has had the privilege of attending, whether contributing towards defraying its expenses or not: Provided, That nothing herein shall prevent any person from attending a common school who will obtain the consent of the trustees and the teachers and pay the required tuition fees. Rut after June 30, 1894, no school shall be deemed a ''common school" or be entitled to any contribution out of the school fund, unless the same has been, pursuant hereto, actually kept, or is under contract to be kept, by a qualified teacher for not less than five months during the same school year, free of expense to every pupil child, as prescribed above. In order that each child of the Common wealth may enjoy the benefits of a five months' school, the Superintendent of Public Instruction shall, for each school year after June 30, lSJ)3, apportion the fund due each county having one or more districts of less than forty-five pupil children as follows: He shall apportion to each district, without regard to school popnla ion, the per capita of forty-five pupil children, both from the fund derived from the State and interest on the county bond, if any, and prorate the remainder of the fund among the districts having more than forty-five such children: Provided, That any fractional balance shall be omitted in computing the said per capita, and that the aggregate of fractional balances shall be credited to the respective counties, and be taken into account the following year.
3. [School Year.]—The school year shall begin on the first day of July, and end on the thirtieth of June.
4. [School - Month — School - Day — Assistant Teachers.]—Twenty school days, or days in which teachers are actually employed in the school room, shall constitute a school month in the common schools of the State; but no teacher shall teach on Saturdays. Teachers shall have the benefits of only such legal holidays as they actually observe. Six hours of actual work in the school room shall constitute a school day; and under no circumstances shall the daily session, including recesses and intermissions, exceed nine hours in length. When the attendance exceeds fifty, the teacher may employ, during such attendance, an assistant, whose scholarship and competency shall be acceptable to the trustees. When the school shall require an assistant to serve regularly at a salary, such assistant shall hold a certificate of qualification and be employed by the trustees.
5. [Regulations for Schools — Penalties.]—All pupils who may be admitted to common schools shall comply with the regulations established in pursuance of law for the government of such schools. Wilful disobedience or defiance of the authority of the teachers, habitual profanity or vulgarity, or other gross violation of propriety or law, shall constitute good cause for suspension or expulsion from school.
6. [Forbidden Publications and Doctrines.]—
No books or other publications of a sectarian, infidel, or immoral character, shall be used or distributed in any common school; nor shall any sectarian, infidel or immoral doctrine be taught therein.
7. [Conditions for Graduation.]—Whenever a pupil of any common school shall have faithfully completed the prescribed course of study, shall have passed a proper examination before the County Board of Examiners on a series of questions prescribed by the State Board of Examiners, and paid to the said county board an examination fee of one dollar, he shall be entitled to a certificate of such completion and examination, signed by said county board and approved by the Superintendent of Public Instruction who shall affix thereto his official seal. The superintendent shall prepare a proper formfor said certificate. Onesuchexaminationshall be held in each county on the last Thursday in January, and another on the last Thursday in June of each year.
Source: Kentucky Common School Laws ©1896
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